Alternator & Aux Battery

[DCPU]

Have a look at CountyV8's Post here, it shows it busbared to the CTEK Smartpass:

https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/high-load-auxiliary-switch-panel-electrical-preparation-option.12410279/page-6#post-1333130709

 

[CountyV8]

Have a look at CountyV8's Post here, it shows it busbared to the CTEK Smartpass:

https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/high-load-auxiliary-switch-panel-electrical-preparation-option.12410279/page-6#post-1333130709

Check out CTEK on you tube as well

 

[Yards10]

This is the info Ineos emailed me. No inverter included.

First point of note the auxiliary battery is identical to the main battery per details below:

Main Battery

The battery that powers the Grenadier is a 105Ah EFB Moll battery.
It works as a traditional 12 Volt system with an alternator charging the battery when required.
The Auxiliary battery that is used when optioned is identical to the main vehicle battery and will be wired in parallel to insure that it stays a 12 volt circuit.

EFB - Enhanced Flooded Battery. These batteries are sealed and are not able to be opened to test cells

Additional information on the Aux Battery:

The Grenadier has the option for an auxiliary battery to be fitted. It is located under the rear second row seating (opposite side to the standard battery). A C-TECH charger is used to charge the additional battery along with isolate the standard battery when engine is not on. Can assist with starting vehicle if main battery is low.

The main use for the auxiliary batteries is for use of additional electric equipment powered from the vehicle without diminishing the main battery when engine is not running.

Specification: 105Ah Lead acid 12V

 

[WhiteBear]

Thank you, but this does not mention the inverter.
The batteries are not really parallel, but separated by the Ctek and are combined when needed for starting with low voltage on the main battery. That is good and the normal behaviour of this Ctek. There should never be low voltage on the starter battery if you drive regularly at least 20 - 30 km. Usually the second battery for the equipment gets low and is shut off at about 10,5 Volt. Don’t know if the Ctek does so, will look itup.
As too often the information from Ineos support is not reliable. We will see if the inverter is fitted when a auxiliary battery is ordered.

 

[Arkaig]

Thank you, but this does not mention the inverter.

We will see if the inverter is fitted when a auxiliary battery is ordered.

There is no inverter fitted. Maybe whenever/if ever the long-promised full Accessories brochure is published, an inverter will be included complete with approved wiring harness.

 

[emax]

At the Aufenau test drive I was told by an Ineos rep that the inverter was indeed listed in the brochure but was later removed because they didn't get this ready in time - he said.

They plan to offer this in, as he said, maybe eight months or so, but it will be charged.

 

[DCPU]

It's hard not to see the inverter, as originally previewed, as a production line option rather than an accessory that could be fitted after the fact.

Of course, it could be done but if there's no blank fitted in the back of the cubby box for the plug, then you're into cutting holes or swapping out cubby boxes.

 

[Mr. Largo WINCH]

Bonjour,
J'avais installé sur mon DEF 90 TD4, un convertisseur statique 12 V continu >> 220 V alternatif d'une puissance de 300 W. Le convertisseur était transché sur la batterie auxiliaire avec un fusible 40 A. C'est un modèle pour bateau de plaisance.

 

[Arkaig]

It's hard not to see the inverter, as originally previewed, as a production line option rather than an accessory that could be fitted after the fact.

Of course, it could be done but if there's no blank fitted in the back of the cubby box for the plug, then you're into cutting holes or swapping out cubby boxes.

I had thought there was a square knock-out blank at the back of the cubby box specifically to provide a plug socket for an inverter, unless the design has changed.

 

[Mr. Largo WINCH]

Bonjour,
Le boitier électrique de mon DEF 110 derrière le boîtier Cuby.
Le boitier est relié à la batterie auxiliaire Optima Jaune par l'intermédiaire d'un fusible 40 A.
Toutes les sorties sont équipées d'un disjonteur 12V. Il y a deux nourisses 12V (une de chaque côté) pour l'alimentation des téléphones portables, du frigo de raid, pour recharger les appareils photo.

 

[DCPU]

I had thought there was a square knock-out blank at the back of the cubby box specifically to provide a plug socket for an inverter, unless the design has changed.

View attachment 7797235

Yes, early ones all seemed to have that dummy/mock up, later ones even had what looked like an actual top hinge cover arrangement:

So there clearly was development work ongoing on it; but later prototypes seem to have gone to this look:

But looking at the photos again, it looks its just a fascia panel that would need swapping out rather than the cubby box as a whole - which is good news for a retro fit.

 

[emax]

That is also my opinion. Engineers' wishful thinking.

 

[Logsplitter]

It won’t be long and we’ll know the answers to all the questions. How long is it now until the first ones are delivered

 

[Misso]

Any updates on alternator voltage? Amps out? Looking at what I will need for charging caravan(RV) on the road.

 

[USandPR]

Any updates on alternator voltage? Amps out? Looking at what I will need for charging caravan(RV) on the road.

At the Denver event I told them they needed to run a heavy gauge red back to the trailer plug for charging batteries on trailers. Not sure how they took it but seemed interested. I also mentioned an integrated brake controller so as not to screw one under the dash all janky like but they said no on that. They claim 7,000lbs towing but nothing to control the trailer's brakes? Day one adding an aftermarket brake controller will really mess up the aesthetics. Integrated brake controllers with tow pages have been around for over 10 years.

 

[CountyV8]

At the Denver event I told them they needed to run a heavy gauge red back to the trailer plug for charging batteries on trailers. Not sure how they took it but seemed interested. I also mentioned an integrated brake controller so as not to screw one under the dash all janky like but they said no on that. They claim 7,000lbs towing but nothing to control the trailer's brakes? Day one adding an aftermarket brake controller will really mess up the aesthetics. Integrated brake controllers with tow pages have been around for over 10 years.

Here is the Redraw one fitted in Australian cars also there is a NATO plug on the back for the winch that could supply power to trailer.

 

[Sandman]

Any updates on alternator voltage? Amps out? Looking at what I will need for charging caravan(RV) on the road.

I've been told that the Alternator will have a 250Amp output

 

[Mr. Largo WINCH]

Deux batteries de 105 Ah

 

[Davman]

Any updates on alternator voltage? Amps out? Looking at what I will need for charging caravan(RV) on the road.

If it is 250A then I think they have done a good thing, as they probably only needed a 180-200A to run the car and charge the starter battery.

They have obviously factored in the second battery and other loads on the electrical system like Winch, which should give you at least another 50A spare I reckon if you are not using these other items, to utilise for other purposes in your car (fridge, compressor etc), and charging batteries in your car (and potentially the fridge too).

However you are correct, you still need to balance the amp loads across both car and caravan.
If you are running a second battery in the car, then you may want to consider only charging the caravan battery when the car batteries are full. In my car I have a 50Amp lithium behind a 25A BCDC charger which powers the beer fridge - I can monitor this with the Victron bluetooth shunt. When this battery is full enough, I can switch the power over from inside the car, to then allow the 40A BCDC in the caravan to start drawing power from the alternator. This means in worse case scenarios when all batteries are low, I am not asking the alternator to power 65A worth of battery chargers- when its only rated to 180A.

Also, depending on the batteries in your van, just check to see their charge rate capacity - how many amps per hour of charge can they accept. This may also help determine what Amperage BCDC you use as well.

That being said, even though I have all this switchable setup in my car/van, my suggestion would be to just load up your van with solar panels. I installed 1200W of solar on my caravan now which powers a 330AH LifeP04 battery, feeding off grid air conditioning, induction cooking, 180ltr Bushman compressor fridge, etc etc etc. Needless to say, I no longer connect my caravan to my car, as my solar setup can charge the batteries at around 70Amp.
However, I still have the car setup there just in case.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Another picture of the (my) battery compartment: