I installed the unit as per your instructions and it is not working. RED and White on the Redarc is supposed to give 12V, no voltage. NA Ineos with Trailer Package. Called Redarc and they said there is something wrong with the Ineos wiring...
Sure thing. Anything specific? I have full confidence in the Grenadier towing our Airstream.
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I suppose this is an America thing. Never heard off or seen a trailer with electric brakes in Europe…. All our trailers are equipped with mechanical brakes. Heavy trailers >3.5 ton have pneumatic brakes.
You summed it up pretty well and nothing you stated surprises me. Anytime a person tows at or close to max tow rating things can feel a bit overtaxed.Sure thing. Anything specific? I have full confidence in the Grenadier towing our Airstream.
We’re actually headed out on another trip with the AS tomorrow, but it’ll be a flat-land trip from PHX to southern CA, so not a lot of mountain passes (although we will hit a brief period of 8% grade).
While we won’t get in to the Rockies until later this summer, we have towed up and over 7000+’ (6.8% grade) elevations through Flagstaff when we traveled to lake Powell earlier this year. I had to exercise some patience, which is good any way, because you’re not going to run 70+mph up the 6% or greater grades towing something this heavy. There’s nothing wrong with sitting in the right lane going 50-55 up a big hill……. Safely getting there is priority #1, obviously.
I’ve still been working on dialing in the weight distribution. Not so much the Pro Pride because it’s simply a matter of taking some measurements to get the weight properly distributed, but I seem to be moving things around in the trailer each trip (folding chairs, grille, etc), and have tried to be more conscience about placing them over the axles. Each trip seems to be a bit different. Like last month we had a heavy load of perishables, so the Grenadier was loaded-up. Whereas, I just got done packing the G for tomorrows trip and felt like I was forgetting stuff because there will be very little in the Gren.
I’d be lying if I said the Grenadier were rock solid towing something so close to the max weight. I have had a couple moments, nothing crazy or scary, just some “this feels strange” moments. A couple times I’ve had to brake hard in traffic, and the trailer seems to push the Grenadier to the left. Again, nothing crazy, just a little bit different than with a heavier tow vehicle. Make sense? At this point, I think I have the brake controller dialed just about all the way up for max braking assistance.
Like many others have said, the Grenadier isn’t a vehicle you can simply sit there and let your mind wander while driving, you’ve got to drive it, and pay attention. That seems even more prevalent when towing a heavy trailer. Just a little bit different, a little more concentration, a little more driver fatigue, frankly.
Tire pressure is a whole other thing I haven’t had to monkey around with in previous tow vehicles. Unloaded, the pressure with the Grenadier seems best, for me, at 36 front/38 rear. Now, tomorrow morning, when cold pressure, I’ll inflate to 41 front/45 rear (and hit the tire pressure reset button). Then, 30 minutes in to the drive we’ll start getting the high-pressure light, even though we’ll still be within the pressure limits on the door sticker. Once un-hitched at the rv park, the next morning I’ll lower the tire pressures back down to the 36/38 for regular driving around town. And do the whole song and dance over again when it’s time to head home at the end of the trip. This was a big part of my motivation for adding the built-in air compressor; besides airing down for off-roading, obviously.
I just don’t remember worrying so much about weight distribution, tire pressure, and strategic packing with the Rivian R1T or new defender 110; as I have been with the Grenadier.
Anyway, I hope there’s some helpful info in there…..and if not, then at least my thumbs got an evening workout
Let us know how things turn out for you, and safe towing.
I would LOVE it if you had any photos you could post. I was looking at some boat trailers this weekend with surge breaks which would mean you could skip the need for a 7pin, within reasonable weight, with just basic blinkers and breaklights i think…
Question for you: did the red arc activate your braking system? I want to pull a trailer and only need brake lights and blinkers and was trying to figure out if i could just connect a universal 4 pin to these wires? The trailer im looking at has surge brakes on it. Only asking because the redarc is cool but pretty pricey compared to a universal 4 pin if its giving me functions i dont personally need.
Oh boy, probably above my pay grade….
I agree which is why i was going surge brakes. Long story but my pre order grenadier with the tow package didnt work out so i wound up having to take what i could get so im just trying to get blinker/brake light operational. Appreciate the feedback.
You could buy this inexpensive tester. I keep one in my toolbox for my F250 that I use to tow cattle and tractors. It helps confirm operation and diagnose any problems with the truck's wiring system separate from a trailer.
Thank you for the excellent write up. It assisted me in installing my Tekonsha brake controller.I am still waiting on the longer cable to arrive, so I have not mounted it yet. I’ll call it a game-time decision.
Contact your dealer and notify them of this, they may be able to find a solution...
I have the same issue. Manual override works as expected, but brake pedal does not. From what I can tell, the violet/orange wire that is the trailer brake controller output is not sending a signal to the brake controller. I have tested the wire and am not getting any voltage when the brake pedal is engaged. The problem appears to be with the tow vehicle, and not the brake controller. I am hoping to get to the dealer this week or next. Will post what I learn.
Yes, it is something with the trigger signal. The reading looks more like a digital signal - it does change with brake but it is a fraction of a voltage change. Look forward to hearing what you learn. Glad it wasn't just me seeing this. I have a question out as well.
The violet/orange wire is expected to be 0volts when no brake applied and 12volts when brake applied - this does not work as expected from the vehicle. This is how the brake controller knows that deceleration is related to brake applied.
Thank you! And only because I deal with this stuff daily (fleet of over 2000 vehicles in my purview). You had a good ground and are using a good quality meter? Not saying you don’t, it’s just something I gotta ask- I oversee the folks responsible for troubleshooting
