NA Trailer Brake Controller Install

[parb]

Does your trailer have electric brakes? If so, why wouldn't you install a brake controller?

Here's the towing capacity chart from the manual (p.151)

View attachment 7848828

So the tongue weight is capable of handling 771lbs? Impressive!

 

[MarkgreSC]

Got the control knob done! It required just about every bit of the remote extension cable. Will sort through the pics, and figure out how to post a video s00n.

View attachment 7852392

Scott, Thank you for the info very helpful. What type of plug did you put on back of truck? Or was it already there (7pin)? I'm having to add one and curious what factory one looks like, is it connected into wire loom right above the plug area? Any recon you can share?

 

[ScottnAZ]

Scott, Thank you for the info very helpful. What type of plug did you put on back of truck? Or was it already there (7pin)? I'm having to add one and curious what factory one looks like, is it connected into wire loom right above the plug area? Any recon you can share?

Unfortunately, I won’t be much help. Ours came with the fully installed tow package, including the 7-pin plug (and software). All I had to do was locate, and connect to, the pre-wires for a brake controller under the back seat.

We nearly bought a G from a dealer lot early on, but it didn’t have the tow package and I didn’t want to be the one to pioneer the modifications. I honestly don’t know the truth, but I did have some conversations with Ineos, as well as a dealer in CA, and they all led me to believe the entire wire harness associated with the tow package would not be installed at the factory if it not originally configured for the tow package.

I’m sorry I’m of no help, good luck, keep us all updated.

 

[MarkgreSC]

Unfortunately, I won’t be much help. Ours came with the fully installed tow package, including the 7-pin plug (and software). All I had to do was locate, and connect to, the pre-wires for a brake controller under the back seat.

We nearly bought a G from a dealer lot early on, but it didn’t have the tow package and I didn’t want to be the one to pioneer the modifications. I honestly don’t know the truth, but I did have some conversations with Ineos, as well as a dealer in CA, and they all led me to believe the entire wire harness associated with the tow package would not be installed at the factory if it not originally configured for the tow package.

I’m sorry I’m of no help, good luck, keep us all updated.

View attachment 7853700

Thanks as every data point helps. I missed that option when ordering the truck few years ago as I must have scanned over it and thought it was just the bar / ball part and not the actual hitch and wires. Go figure, my LC, GMC, etc all at least came with receiver hole. LOL For what it is worth for others, the 4 wires ARE under the back seat as you showed. If I can locate the wires in the bumper all should be good, if not I will use 3 of them you showed and run the blue trigger wire from the seat to the back plug. Not to put more work on you, but can you tell if that plug is wired to the 1" loom right above it or heading off in some other direction to connect to something else? Wish me luck.

 

[grenadierguy]

Thanks as every data point helps. I missed that option when ordering the truck few years ago as I must have scanned over it and thought it was just the bar / ball part and not the actual hitch and wires. Go figure, my LC, GMC, etc all at least came with receiver hole. LOL For what it is worth for others, the 4 wires ARE under the back seat as you showed. If I can locate the wires in the bumper all should be good, if not I will use 3 of them you showed and run the blue trigger wire from the seat to the back plug. Not to put more work on you, but can you tell if that plug is wired to the 1" loom right above it or heading off in some other direction to connect to something else? Wish me luck.

I think the loom you are looking for is behind the area where the gas filler is. Saw reference to that. Not sure if it was interior or exterior. I’m thinking interior.

 

[DezRoamer]

Just finished installing and testing a trailer brake controller on our NA Grenadier.

Went with the Redarc EBRH-ACCV3-NA Tow-Pro Elite Electric Brake Controller; as suggested by Mark @ Redarc. This is the same unit we had on our Defender.

I also needed to order a longer remote wire to move the remote head to the front dash area for mounting. The extension hasn’t arrived yet, so for now the remote is strung to sit between the drivers seat and the center console: RHWK-004 13ft Tow-Pro Elite Remote Head Wiring Kit.

On to the wiring…..

1. Under the back seat, on the passenger side, you will find 4 random wires for the brake controller.

View attachment 7848403

Yellow/Red wire = 12v Constant - (REDARC Black Wire)

Black wire = Ground - (REDARC White Wire)

Grey Wire 12AWG = Control (REDARC Blue Wire)

Violet/Orange 14AWG Wire = Signal (REDARC Red Wire)

I simply zip tied the head unit to the bracket under the seat. (Although, now I realize I’ll have to move it when I install the air compressor.

View attachment 7848404

Then we went out for a test cruise around town, and the freeway. The Airsteam is 23’ and right about 6000 lbs, and we have a Pro Pride 3 weight distribution hitch. Everything seems to be working well. My initial impression is the Grenadier feels more planted than our 2020 Defender did, but it was simple flat towing around town. I am looking forward to our 1st official trip with this setup, and see how it does climbing some mountains/hills.

View attachment 7848405

Great information for those of us who work on our trucks.
I've been considering a trailer brake controller and the REDARC seems like a good choice.

 

[ScottnAZ]

For what it is worth for others, the 4 wires ARE under the back seat as you showed.

So we all understand…. You didn’t order with tow hitch package, but you do have the 4 trailer brake controller wires under the back seat?? If so, that seems encouraging that the 7-pin harness may actually be installed in the G somewhere, and you just need to locate it.

I’ve got the passenger side rear panel out currently (for air compressor install), so here are a couple of pictures of that area. Including a close up of the wire harness running back there.

 

[DaBull]

So we all understand…. You didn’t order with tow hitch package, but you do have the 4 trailer brake controller wires under the back seat?? If so, that seems encouraging that the 7-pin harness may actually be installed in the G somewhere, and you just need to locate it.

I’ve got the passenger side rear panel out currently (for air compressor install), so here are a couple of pictures of that area. Including a close up of the wire harness running back there.

View attachment 7853863
View attachment 7853868
View attachment 7853869
View attachment 7853870

HI ScottnAZ, Love for you to document your ARB install on the right rear boot panel. I just picked one up and that is where I would also like to install mine. I have seen the installs on the left boot panel and they look nice and tucked in, however you are having to sacrifice the jack location and more. Details and photos would be great. Love to know where and how you are connecting to the main power source too. DaBulll

 

[MarkgreSC]

So we all understand…. You didn’t order with tow hitch package, but you do have the 4 trailer brake controller wires under the back seat?? If so, that seems encouraging that the 7-pin harness may actually be installed in the G somewhere, and you just need to locate it.

I’ve got the passenger side rear panel out currently (for air compressor install), so here are a couple of pictures of that area. Including a close up of the wire harness running back there.

View attachment 7853863
View attachment 7853868
View attachment 7853869
View attachment 7853870

Yes to confirm, ordered WITHOUT trailer option and DOES have the 4 wires in the area below the rear passenger seat. (Pic attached). Thank you for the inside photos behind that panel. My has a drawer setup that will be a pain to remove so gonna chase the wires above bumper 1st to see if I can get to anything down there vs taking my drawers out to get that side panel off. Helps greatly to see what is there as a reference as I tear into the back bumper area.

 

[abakker]

Hey - the overhead panel install was mine. It was very easy - took me ~2 hours. What I did:

1. 14' Ethernet cable, go from under the seat, leave ~24" of slack
2. under the floor mat and remove the trim piece around bottom of B pillar
3. Run to the corner of the rubber seal for the door and run up the back of the rubber door seal, NOT INSIDE the B Pillar
4. from top of B pillar, run around the collar trim piece at the top, just tucked inside.
5. once you are at the front of the B pillar, pull down the headliner a bit and fish across into the panel space.
6. the overhead panel is in 2 parts- the face plate, which gets the small hole the size of the silver knob retainer
7. the backplate gets a big enough hole (7/8") for the body of the switch to clear.
8. run the ethernet with ~2' of slack through the big hole and remount the backplate of the switch panel
9. plug the switch body in and slide it up, tucking the slack into the headliner area.

 

[ScottnAZ]

Hey - the overhead panel install was mine. It was very easy - took me ~2 hours. What I did:

1. 14' Ethernet cable, go from under the seat, leave ~24" of slack
2. under the floor mat and remove the trim piece around bottom of B pillar
3. Run to the corner of the rubber seal for the door and run up the back of the rubber door seal, NOT INSIDE the B Pillar
4. from top of B pillar, run around the collar trim piece at the top, just tucked inside.
5. once you are at the front of the B pillar, pull down the headliner a bit and fish across into the panel space.
6. the overhead panel is in 2 parts- the face plate, which gets the small hole the size of the silver knob retainer
7. the backplate gets a big enough hole (7/8") for the body of the switch to clear.
8. run the ethernet with ~2' of slack through the big hole and remount the backplate of the switch panel
9. plug the switch body in and slide it up, tucking the slack into the headliner area.

Well done, and thank you for sharing the process!!

 

[zscholz]

Just finished installing and testing a trailer brake controller on our NA Grenadier.

Went with the Redarc EBRH-ACCV3-NA Tow-Pro Elite Electric Brake Controller; as suggested by Mark @ Redarc. This is the same unit we had on our Defender.

I also needed to order a longer remote wire to move the remote head to the front dash area for mounting. The extension hasn’t arrived yet, so for now the remote is strung to sit between the drivers seat and the center console: RHWK-004 13ft Tow-Pro Elite Remote Head Wiring Kit.

On to the wiring…..

1. Under the back seat, on the passenger side, you will find 4 random wires for the brake controller.

View attachment 7848403

Yellow/Red wire = 12v Constant - (REDARC Black Wire)

Black wire = Ground - (REDARC White Wire)

Grey Wire 12AWG = Control (REDARC Blue Wire)

Violet/Orange 14AWG Wire = Signal (REDARC Red Wire)

I simply zip tied the head unit to the bracket under the seat. (Although, now I realize I’ll have to move it when I install the air compressor.

View attachment 7848404

Then we went out for a test cruise around town, and the freeway. The Airsteam is 23’ and right about 6000 lbs, and we have a Pro Pride 3 weight distribution hitch. Everything seems to be working well. My initial impression is the Grenadier feels more planted than our 2020 Defender did, but it was simple flat towing around town. I am looking forward to our 1st official trip with this setup, and see how it does climbing some mountains/hills.

View attachment 7848405

Hey Scott -

I was wondering, when you did your original install of the redarc system, did you install a breaker on the +12V constant (Grennie: Yellow/Red, Redarc: Black) or is that already fused in the Grennie somewhere? It’d be great it there was already a breaker/fuse in place for this application. In the Redarc install manuals, they go directly to the battery with 12 GA wire with a fuse in between - it’s hard to tell from the picture you posted if that wire is sufficiently large (gauge)…hopefully it’s 12.

We also have an airstream that we will (very rarely) tow, but ours is a 25’ Flying Cloud FB and the tongue weight alone will be problematic (we’ll have to go to great lengths like removing propane tanks to get it under weight). Our camping days are coming to a close for a while - our kids are old enough to not want to hang out with mom & dad, and we’re too young (read: not retired) to be away for long lengths of time, so our towing will likely be constrained to to/from our land from home on a yearly basis (i.e., drive it there, park it for 3 months and then drive it home as winter approaches).

Thanks in advance & happy towing!

 

[ScottnAZ]

Hey Scott -

I was wondering, when you did your original install of the redarc system, did you install a breaker on the +12V constant (Grennie: Yellow/Red, Redarc: Black) or is that already fused in the Grennie somewhere? It’d be great it there was already a breaker/fuse in place for this application. In the Redarc install manuals, they go directly to the battery with 12 GA wire with a fuse in between - it’s hard to tell from the picture you posted if that wire is sufficiently large (gauge)…hopefully it’s 12.

We also have an airstream that we will (very rarely) tow, but ours is a 25’ Flying Cloud FB and the tongue weight alone will be problematic (we’ll have to go to great lengths like removing propane tanks to get it under weight). Our camping days are coming to a close for a while - our kids are old enough to not want to hang out with mom & dad, and we’re too young (read: not retired) to be away for long lengths of time, so our towing will likely be constrained to to/from our land from home on a yearly basis (i.e., drive it there, park it for 3 months and then drive it home as winter approaches).

Thanks in advance & happy towing!

Fused under backseat (drivers side) as FI13, so I didn’t add any additional fusing.

I know what you mean about the kiddos….. we had a wakeboard/surf boat for a number of years during their childhood. Older daughter went off to college, boat stopped getting used on a regular basis so we sold it. Fast forward a little and youngest went off to college a few years ago, so we didn’t waste any time and picked up the airstream.

We most definitely have 10-15 years of working ahead of us still, but some personal things helped us realize life is short, and it’s okay to take time and do some traveling. There is plenty to do and see within 2-8 hours of home (including Durango ), so a 4-day weekend every month, and an 8-10 day trip twice a year has been our cadence (it certainly helps we’re self-employed though).

Don’t over think it, take that airstream out, leave the kids home, be okay with the fact they’ll throw a party or two; enjoy life, the stress and work will always be there when you get back. Happy towing back at ya, my friend!

 

[LeeroyJ]

Yellow/Red wire = 12v Constant - (REDARC Black Wire)

Black wire = Ground - (REDARC White Wire)

Grey Wire 12AWG = Control (REDARC Blue Wire)

Violet/Orange 14AWG Wire = Signal (REDARC Red Wire)

This part was so helpful to me, thanks a ton!

 

[LeeroyJ]

For the waxy material that is on the end of the wires in the Grenadier, what's the best way to remove that material? I thought about just cutting and then stripping, but the wires are already pretty short so I would rather not make them any shorter.

 

[grenadierguy]

For the waxy material that is on the end of the wires in the Grenadier, what's the best way to remove that material? I thought about just cutting and then stripping, but the wires are already pretty short so I would rather not make them any shorter.

I have read heating it up with a heat gun and then just pulling it off.

 

[LeeroyJ]

I have read heating it up with a heat gun and then just pulling it off.

Thanks ill give that a try.

 

[Lord Ripon USA]

In another thread mentioning trailers and their receiver hitches, @anand said very clearly There is a module that comes with the tow package.
I don't know what that is, but I have no interest in splicing in a 7 pin connector that will operate electric trailer brakes without whatever secret device @anand says should be there.
Module implies a device. Perhaps the module is just a segment of computer code that must be patched in to energize the trailer plug harness.
Apparently there is also a bunch of programming changes effecting brakes, and who knows what not, that also has to be done.

Which tells me it's a multi day return to a dealer . Not a simple diy event.

 

[LeeroyJ]

In another thread mentioning trailers and their receiver hitches, @anand said very clearly There is a module that comes with the tow package.
I don't know what that is, but I have no interest in splicing in a 7 pin connector that will operate electric trailer brakes without whatever secret device @anand says should be there.
Module implies a device. Perhaps the module is just a segment of computer code that must be patched in to energize the trailer plug harness.
Apparently there is also a bunch of programming changes effecting brakes, and who knows what not, that also has to be done.

Which tells me it's a multi day return to a dealer . Not a simple diy event.

Do you happen to know what thread? @anand has over 2000 posts so I'm not having any luck finding the thread you are talking about.

 

[anand]

Do you happen to know what thread? @anand has over 2000 posts so I'm not having any luck finding the thread you are talking about.

I'll preface this by saying that I have not seen any wiring diagrams or technical papers/flow charts on this

But from what I can tell the towing control module (I think the factory term for it is the TRM) sits on the right rear fender and subsequently handles the output for the 7 pin connector. When it detects that a trailer is connected (I'm not positive of the logic sequence used by Ineos, but other brands use a load detection across any of the light circuits) it should engage several different logic changes in the vehicle. Again, I haven't seen any specific technical charts on this to confirm, but based on other vehicles these changes could include adjustments to the ESP/ABS algorithms (for sway control), turning off the rear parking sensors, etc. The programming in this module dictates whether the vehicle has the 7 pin (US) or 13 pin (I think this is right?) Euro connector and of course what/how the outputs are triggered.

My assumption on which module it is exists primarily because it has a wiring harness that runs out of the vehicle through the adjacent grommet, and not every photo I've seen has had this module (it is unrelated to having the relay for the NATO plug). Regardless of where it is, it most certainly exists, as it is the primary module that was received new software with the US update to allow the hitch installs.

In the case of retrofitting a towing hitch after production, the most likely way would be to install the physical receiver, and then grab triggers for the lighting functions from the taillights (I say triggers because you would want to relay all of these as to not place additional load on those circuits); I believe there are kits that are sold to do this to vehicles that don't have factory trailer connector wiring, of course the vehicle would never "know" there was a trailer. I'm not sure what the possibility is of retrofitting the module, at the very least I imagine it would require dealer programming to code it to the vehicle/region, and that is if the harnesses are pre-run to the module. Then of course you would require the rest of the wiring from the module to the trailer plug.