That would make sense it's just that it had one of those body clips to hold the connector wire bundle to the body if the module wasn't there yet. Given the hold for TRM module update in NA figured maybe it happened after factory.
That would make sense it's just that it had one of those body clips to hold the connector wire bundle to the body if the module wasn't there yet. Given the hold for TRM module update in NA figured maybe it happened after factory.
It was just a software update (well, the trucks that needed the software update had the hitch unbolted at the port as well), but nothing involving the TRM
Agreed. I used the manual braking to actually engage the trailer brakes, and in doing so, it started calibrating. Initially I thought my mounting of the controller was not adequately stable and therefore could not calibrate. I used beefier zip ties and thought that was good enough, but then still wasn’t calibrating, so I thought I would have to remount again. However, when I used the manual override and it calibrated, I ruled out the mounting as an issue and focused on the lack of a trigger.
Since it isn't met with moisture/exterior use, even using a <gasp> T tap (vampire clamp, etc) right over the wire should be fine; just make sure it is the appropriate size.Next to stripping and soldering the wire tap as mentioned above, what is the next best method/means for tapping into the wire for the brake signal? I don't possess a soldering iron or the expertise on how to do this.
Also, what type of wire (gauge/size) would you run for the brake signal? Assuming I should just be able to pick-up some of this wiring at a Lowe's? I need the auto electrical for dummies edition here
Next to stripping and soldering the wire tap as mentioned above, what is the next best method/means for tapping into the wire for the brake signal? I don't possess a soldering iron or the expertise on how to do this.
Also, what type of wire (gauge/size) would you run for the brake signal? Assuming I should just be able to pick-up some of this wiring at a Lowe's? I need the auto electrical for dummies edition here
Something like Posi-Tap would work fine - get from your local auto parts. Probably best to use same gauge wire as the brake signal wire from the controller.Next to stripping and soldering the wire tap as mentioned above, what is the next best method/means for tapping into the wire for the brake signal? I don't possess a soldering iron or the expertise on how to do this.
Also, what type of wire (gauge/size) would you run for the brake signal? Assuming I should just be able to pick-up some of this wiring at a Lowe's? I need the auto electrical for dummies edition here
Nevermind, found it
Better Solution Found
Use the wires under the rear seat as others have indicated for power, ground, trailer brakes.
There is a brake trigger/signal wire that feeds input to the TRM (trailer module). Blue/orange wire fourth in from left - see pic.
Test drive successful and RedArc properly finished it's learning after a few miles of driving around.
Hopefully these pictures help.
I'm about to add a brake controller as many of us have, Was the fuse installed or will it need to be purchased and installed after the control wiring is completed?Fused under backseat (drivers side) as FI13, so I didn’t add any additional fusing.
View attachment 7854647
I know what you mean about the kiddos….. we had a wakeboard/surf boat for a number of years during their childhood. Older daughter went off to college, boat stopped getting used on a regular basis so we sold it. Fast forward a little and youngest went off to college a few years ago, so we didn’t waste any time and picked up the airstream.
We most definitely have 10-15 years of working ahead of us still, but some personal things helped us realize life is short, and it’s okay to take time and do some traveling. There is plenty to do and see within 2-8 hours of home (including Durango), so a 4-day weekend every month, and an 8-10 day trip twice a year has been our cadence (it certainly helps we’re self-employed though).
Don’t over think it, take that airstream out, leave the kids home, be okay with the fact they’ll throw a party or two; enjoy life, the stress and work will always be there when you get back. Happy towing back at ya, my friend!
www.curtmfg.com
I did not install a diode. RedArc wants to send 12v on manual brake - I figured no harm since these trigger inputs are how the TRM enables trailer lighting. It shouldn't care who sent the 12v trigger
If you have factory installed hitch option, all fuses should already be installed.
I was thinking the same thing after I posted, so it’s probable that the trailer brakes are being lit when you manually activate the brakes. Which is how the Redarc is designed to operate. Anway, sounds good. I’ll take this approach as well. Thanks for locating that wire
I would be careful here. Redarc don't advise installing a diode just to sell diodes. Bendix and others who make EBCs also advise and/or supply a blocking diode in their kits.
Factory installed hitch but I haven't verified the fuse being installed.
Agree this is a valid use of the diode as long as placed on the correct side of the tap.
Of course this means you have to break the wire fully and not just tap in to it.
Understood. It's a combi light.
