NA Trailer Brake Controller Install

[Clark Kent]

Of course this means you have to break the wire fully and not just tap in to it.

Yep, but a small inconvenience for peace of mind?

 

[Driver8]

First, I am NOT an automotive expert by any means so take this analysis for what its worth. Second, I echo the comment made earlier that this is a great resource for folks, so thank you for everyone contributing here.

From what i can tell, it's a ROW vs NAS issue going on with the diode. I think, i hope! I have the RedArc Liberty, not the elite. However, neither owners manual has the word diode or suggests the EPDK. On the Elite page, it has a link to the EPDK instructions, but no such link exists on the Liberty page. And the EPDK mentions stop lamps, but we do not have stop lamps on the 7-way plugs that the Grens have. There are 7 way pins with stop lamps but those are for agricultural uses- from my limited research. And the way i understand the EPDK, that is when getting the signal at the plug, but we are upstream from the plug on this. Thank you @Clark Kent , i know you have the best interest of our Grenadiers in mind when you are asking the questions so we dont screw them up. Seriously, thank you!!

I tapped into the blue/orange wire, long story short, everything worked as expected (I have not hooked up to trailer yet, will do that thursday, but voltages are behaving as expected in testing). When i hit the manual override, the third brake light above the door illuminates, but the primary brake lights do not. when i hit the brake pedal, all 3 illuminate. More to report out when i hook up my trailer, but i wanted to mention the third brake light while i was thinking about. Thanks folks, we'll get there!

 

[Clark Kent]

First, I am NOT an automotive expert by any means so take this analysis for what its worth. Second, I echo the comment made earlier that this is a great resource for folks, so thank you for everyone contributing here.

From what i can tell, it's a ROW vs NAS issue going on with the diode. I think, i hope! I have the RedArc Liberty, not the elite. However, neither owners manual has the word diode or suggests the EPDK. On the Elite page, it has a link to the EPDK instructions, but no such link exists on the Liberty page. And the EPDK mentions stop lamps, but we do not have stop lamps on the 7-way plugs that the Grens have. There are 7 way pins with stop lamps but those are for agricultural uses- from my limited research. And the way i understand the EPDK, that is when getting the signal at the plug, but we are upstream from the plug on this. Thank you @Clark Kent , i know you have the best interest of our Grenadiers in mind when you are asking the questions so we dont screw them up. Seriously, thank you!!

I tapped into the blue/orange wire, long story short, everything worked as expected (I have not hooked up to trailer yet, will do that thursday, but voltages are behaving as expected in testing). When i hit the manual override, the third brake light above the door illuminates, but the primary brake lights do not. when i hit the brake pedal, all 3 illuminate. More to report out when i hook up my trailer, but i wanted to mention the third brake light while i was thinking about. Thanks folks, we'll get there!

You're onto me @Driver8. If asking questions creates enough pause to prevent possible damage then I have done my bit in this thread. There seems to be something amiss with the wiring provisions under the seat. Hopefully that will be resolved and EBC installation for NA market vehicles will get easier.

I'll leave this link for further review in regard to the need for a diode (Redarc: EPDK) in NA delivered vehicles. Having read this my current position is that I am no clearer! It may depend on what Ineos have provided via the TPM or other wiring.

There may also be something in this to answer your absent primary brake lights? Bold below.

Using an EPDK in Tow-Pro Installations (Redarc USA)​

"...The stop lamp signal has traditionally been the suitable location to source the stop light trigger as it illuminates under both types of braking, however in the USA, it’s often the case, then stop lamps also operate as passing lamps i.e. indicator lights when changing lanes or over taking another vehicle?

Often the CMHSL (Centre Mounted High Stop Light) at the rear roof of the vehicle is looked at as a possible suitable source of the stop lamp signal however you need to ensure it is solid 12Volt signal and not a PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) signal. It is also necessary to prevent electrical back-feed down the brake signal wire due to modern electrical systems.

The EPDK-001 has been designed to fit in the Brake Stop Lamp circuit from the CMHSL to support the installation of Tow-Pro Electric Brake Controller on vehicles where ‘back-feed’ of 12Volt (during Tow-Pro Manual Override) may interfere with the vehicle systems and/or on-board computers. When installed correctly, the EPDK-001 ensures correct trailer braking and stop lamp operation when at any time the vehicle brakes or the Tow-Pro Manual Override is applied.

In a typical installation where the vehicle has a factory fit tow-package, supplied by the manufacturer from delivery, generally fitment of EPDK-001 is not required. The vehicle tow-wiring should have these protections built-in already, so no extra components are necessary."

 

[Lord Ripon USA]

Somebody from Ineos needs to get on top of this thread and tell NA owners to “Do this…”
It is undermining their brand.

 

[anand]

Somebody from Ineos needs to get on top of this thread and tell NA owners to “Do this…”
It is undermining their brand.

Finding any auto manufacturer to specifically give official instructions on how to install a non-approved and aftermarket component to their vehicle would be impressive...

 

[GrenADV]

Finding any manufacturer to specifically give official instructions on how to install a non-approved and aftermarket component to their vehicle would be impressive...

I would think it would behoove Redarc to research this and provide instructions. Does anyone know if Redarc is intending to release a Grenadier specific harness in the near future?

 

[Driver8]

Quick post to show the progress made in my trailer brake saga, thanks to the good folks in this forum! I was able to hook up my trailer and tow it about 130 miles, and applying the brakes in the tow vehicle now actuates the brakes on the trailer- YAY! The red light on the Redarc knob illuminates when braking, and I feel so much better now that things are working. I did install the diode, Redarc EPDK, right next to the controller. Below is a screenshot from eTrailer, where they show the second red wire not used. I did call Redarc and they said yes, a diode should be used, and the proper configuration is one red wire to the brake controller and the orange wire goes to the trigger, which in this case was the blue/orange wire from the TRM that @pernsdorff sleuthed out. I just used a Scotch Lock on the blue/orange wire, ran the 14 AWG wire to the EPDK orange wire. The other red wire I just taped off as I do not need it. Long story short, everything is now working. I’ll try and get a longer post with more details, but this alternate solution works!

 

[Clark Kent]

Quick post to show the progress made in my trailer brake saga, thanks to the good folks in this forum! I was able to hook up my trailer and tow it about 130 miles, and applying the brakes in the tow vehicle now actuates the brakes on the trailer- YAY! The red light on the Redarc knob illuminates when braking, and I feel so much better now that things are working. I did install the diode, Redarc EPDK, right next to the controller. Below is a screenshot from eTrailer, where they show the second red wire not used. I did call Redarc and they said yes, a diode should be used, and the proper configuration is one red wire to the brake controller and the orange wire goes to the trigger, which in this case was the blue/orange wire from the TRM that @pernsdorff sleuthed out. I just used a Scotch Lock on the blue/orange wire, ran the 14 AWG wire to the EPDK orange wire. The other red wire I just taped off as I do not need it. Long story short, everything is now working. I’ll try and get a longer post with more details, but this alternate solution works!



View attachment 7867544

That's great news. Thanks for the update and hopefully finding an interim way ahead for others while the mystery of the under seat wiring is resolved.

 

[Lord Ripon USA]

That's great news. Thanks for the update and hopefully finding an interim way ahead for others while the mystery of the under seat wiring is resolved.

What test did you use to demonstrate the e-brakes are being actuated?

The focus seems to be on electric connections more so than actual trailer control.

 

[pandawest]

Just finished installing and testing a trailer brake controller on our NA Grenadier.

Went with the Redarc EBRH-ACCV3-NA Tow-Pro Elite Electric Brake Controller; as suggested by Mark @ Redarc. This is the same unit we had on our Defender.

I also needed to order a longer remote wire to move the remote head to the front dash area for mounting. The extension hasn’t arrived yet, so for now the remote is strung to sit between the drivers seat and the center console: RHWK-004 13ft Tow-Pro Elite Remote Head Wiring Kit.

On to the wiring…..

1. Under the back seat, on the passenger side, you will find 4 random wires for the brake controller.

View attachment 7848403

Yellow/Red wire = 12v Constant - (REDARC Black Wire)

Black wire = Ground - (REDARC White Wire)

Grey Wire 12AWG = Control (REDARC Blue Wire)

Violet/Orange 14AWG Wire = Signal (REDARC Red Wire)

I simply zip tied the head unit to the bracket under the seat. (Although, now I realize I’ll have to move it when I install the air compressor.

View attachment 7848404

Then we went out for a test cruise around town, and the freeway. The Airsteam is 23’ and right about 6000 lbs, and we have a Pro Pride 3 weight distribution hitch. Everything seems to be working well. My initial impression is the Grenadier feels more planted than our 2020 Defender did, but it was simple flat towing around town. I am looking forward to our 1st official trip with this setup, and see how it does climbing some mountains/hills.

View attachment 7848405

Scott, I installed the Red Arc unit from my LR Defender in the Gren in no time thanks to your post. Thank you, I appreciate it!

 

[Driver8]

What test did you use to demonstrate the e-brakes are being actuated?

The focus seems to be on electric connections more so than actual trailer control.

With the Gren stationary, brake pedal pressed, I had 4V on the multi meter, which is what I expect sitting still. I hooked up the trailer, had my wife press the brakes as I was back at the wheels on the trailer and I could hear them energize. On a dirt road I was moving at about 20 mph, cranked the gain to 7, hit the brake and the trailer brakes locked up- what I would expect. Now I feel confident that it works with this alternate method. Whew!

 

[ScottnAZ]

What a fantastic group of people here; all looking out for one another and working through the challenges together!

During initial installation I must have been seeing stray voltage, or who knows, but I’m no longer getting a voltage reading at the signal wire when pressing the brake pedal.

Quick story: It was time to bring the trailer back down the mountain to home, so we loaded up a few days ago and started the trek. About 20 minutes in, we had an oh-$hit moment as I had to do some last second hard braking around a tight mountain corner……trailer brakes didn’t engage!!!, and the trailer pushed us in to the oncoming lane. Thankfully, thankfully, we were being pushed toward the mountain and not toward the cliff, and equally thankful it was an early morning and no oncoming traffic. This, easily, could have been a different outcome. We continued the 2-hr trip home as I worked the manual braking button at every curve/stop, and sat in the right lane going well under the speed limit.

Thanks go out to the great discussion, and research, that’s been going on in this thread (and forum!). Today, I went down the path @pernsdorff has lined out as an alternative wiring method. I, did, also install the diode referenced by @rur42

Time for more road testing before we head out again in a couple weeks.

(I edited the original post to reflect the unreliable signal wire)

​

 

[cbayres1]

Just finished installing and testing a trailer brake controller on our NA Grenadier.

Went with the Redarc EBRH-ACCV3-NA Tow-Pro Elite Electric Brake Controller; as suggested by Mark @ Redarc. This is the same unit we had on our Defender.

I also needed to order a longer remote wire to move the remote head to the front dash area for mounting. The extension hasn’t arrived yet, so for now the remote is strung to sit between the drivers seat and the center console: RHWK-004 13ft Tow-Pro Elite Remote Head Wiring Kit.

On to the wiring…..

1. Under the back seat, on the passenger side, you will find 4 random wires for the brake controller.

View attachment 7848403

Yellow/Red wire = 12v Constant - (REDARC Black Wire)

Black wire = Ground - (REDARC White Wire)

Grey Wire 12AWG = Control (REDARC Blue Wire)

Violet/Orange 14AWG Wire = Signal (REDARC Red Wire). EDIT: THIS WIRE IS CURRENTLY UNRELIABLE, KEEP READING FOR ALTERNATIVE SOLUTIONS. (It would appear INEOS did not properly setup the software to control this signal wire, so it should not be relied upon until INEOS issues a solution).

I simply zip tied the head unit to the bracket under the seat. (Although, now I realize I’ll have to move it when I install the air compressor.

View attachment 7848404

Then we went out for a test cruise around town, and the freeway. The Airsteam is 23’ and right about 6000 lbs, and we have a Pro Pride 3 weight distribution hitch. Everything seems to be working well. My initial impression is the Grenadier feels more planted than our 2020 Defender did, but it was simple flat towing around town. I am looking forward to our 1st official trip with this setup, and see how it does climbing some mountains/hills.

View attachment 7848405

ScottnAZ

Just finished installing and testing a trailer brake controller on our NA Grenadier.

Went with the Redarc EBRH-ACCV3-NA Tow-Pro Elite Electric Brake Controller; as suggested by Mark @ Redarc. This is the same unit we had on our Defender.

I also needed to order a longer remote wire to move the remote head to the front dash area for mounting. The extension hasn’t arrived yet, so for now the remote is strung to sit between the drivers seat and the center console: RHWK-004 13ft Tow-Pro Elite Remote Head Wiring Kit.

On to the wiring…..

1. Under the back seat, on the passenger side, you will find 4 random wires for the brake controller.

View attachment 7848403

Yellow/Red wire = 12v Constant - (REDARC Black Wire)

Black wire = Ground - (REDARC White Wire)

Grey Wire 12AWG = Control (REDARC Blue Wire)

Violet/Orange 14AWG Wire = Signal (REDARC Red Wire). EDIT: THIS WIRE IS CURRENTLY UNRELIABLE, KEEP READING FOR ALTERNATIVE SOLUTIONS. (It would appear INEOS did not properly setup the software to control this signal wire, so it should not be relied upon until INEOS issues a solution).

I simply zip tied the head unit to the bracket under the seat. (Although, now I realize I’ll have to move it when I install the air compressor.

View attachment 7848404

Then we went out for a test cruise around town, and the freeway. The Airsteam is 23’ and right about 6000 lbs, and we have a Pro Pride 3 weight distribution hitch. Everything seems to be working well. My initial impression is the Grenadier feels more planted than our 2020 Defender did, but it was simple flat towing around town. I am looking forward to our 1st official trip with this setup, and see how it does climbing some mountains/hills.

View attachment 7848405

ScottnAZ
On the Violet/Orange 14AWG Wire = Signal (REDARC Red Wire)….did you mention an alternate solution other than Grenadier recoding the software?

Reason is I installed the REDARC using your similar instructions ….. I was getting the blinking green and noticed this Violent/Orange wire was not activating 12V when the brakes depressed. So my option is to run a wire from the brake switch. Is that your solution?

 

[ScottnAZ]

ScottnAZ

ScottnAZ
On the Violet/Orange 14AWG Wire = Signal (REDARC Red Wire)….did you mention an alternate solution other than Grenadier recoding the software?

Reason is I installed the REDARC using your similar instructions ….. I was getting the blinking green and noticed this Violent/Orange wire was not activating 12V when the brakes depressed. So my option is to run a wire from the brake switch. Is that your solution?

I followed pernsdorff’s lead outlined in post #129 on p.7 of this thread: https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/na-trailer-brake-controller-install.12414979/page-7

You will need to access the right rear boot area, and locate the TRM (trailer module), to access the brake signal wire to tap in to; then run a wire from the TRM tap to up under the rear seat where the factory wires are located.

Trailer module location once the right rear panel is removed for access:

I hooked up trailer today, and took it out for additional testing. It took about 10-15 various brake actions during the drive to calibrate the unit (before the drive, I un-plugged the fuse for 10 minutes to clear any previous memory/calibration). I can definitely feel the trailer braking much harder than it did previously.

 

[cbayres1]

I followed pernsdorff’s lead outlined in post #129 on p.7 of this thread: https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/na-trailer-brake-controller-install.12414979/page-7

You will need to access the right rear boot area, and locate the TRM (trailer module), to access the brake signal wire to tap in to; then run a wire from the TRM tap to up under the rear seat where the factory wires are located.

Trailer module location once the right rear panel is removed for access:

I hooked up trailer today, and took it out for additional testing. It took about 10-15 various brake actions during the drive to calibrate the unit (before the drive, I un-plugged the fuse for 10 minutes to clear any previous memory/calibration). I can definitely feel the trailer braking much harder than it did previously.

Thanks much ScottnAZ, I assume you mean by running the wire from the TRM, you are tapping into the red REDARC wire “only”.