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- Joined
- Dec 25, 2022
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- 113
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- Location
- Warrawee NSW, Australia
Had to look 3 times to see it in between the gear selector and centre diff lock knob.another option
View attachment 7830776
Had to look 3 times to see it in between the gear selector and centre diff lock knob.another option
View attachment 7830776
Yes easy to get to (and see led colours) for driver or passenger....Had to look 3 times to see it in between the gear selector and centre diff lock knob.
I had a look at putting it there bit could not work out how to get the harness through to the drivers side under dash area. How did you route the cable?another option
View attachment 7830776
I had a look at putting it there bit could not work out how to get the harness through to the drivers side under dash area. How did you route the cable?
Nice work. Where did you pick up the power feed from.So for those of you wanting to use the Ineos instructions for your install, here are my findings.
1. The blue wire is supposed to go to the blank pin 12. This did not work for me and I had to swop pin 5 with pin 12.
2. Pin 2 is listed as the fog light and pin 8 as the reverse. Again, this did not work as the reverse lights on the van only worked when I activated the fog light switch. I swopped pin 8 and pin two on the socket and all was good.
Those two wires cost me two days of working on the problem and trial and error - it did my head in but happy days, it all works now.
Next time (if there is a next time) I'll drive it into an auto sparky and let them sort it!
Before I remove my drawer system, to remove my seat, to remove my battery panelling.... Where is this power coming from to supply this whole fuse panel module. I am hoping to piggy back of it for a ctek250se smart charger, as I have no dual battery system. obviously fusing etc just want to know whether it would be a good spot too... somewhat would be temporary until I remove the whole drawer unit, seat, and panelling etc.
I'm pretty sure it comes from the starter battery - can't check at the moment but will confirm when I can. You should be able to trace the wire yourself without disassembling the car - just lift the PS rear seat and have a look. Mine's a 2 seater with a lid insteadof rear seat.Before I remove my drawer system, to remove my seat, to remove my battery panelling.... Where is this power coming from to supply this whole fuse panel module. I am hoping to piggy back of it for a ctek250se smart charger, as I have no dual battery system. obviously fusing etc just want to know whether it would be a good spot too... somewhat would be temporary until I remove the whole drawer unit, seat, and panelling etc.
TIA
Just stumbled on this. Its now in the Resources section as well.Here you go Steve.
This is a thing that I have great interest in.Just wondering Has anyone got an electric over hydraulic brake actuator on the their trailer and managed to get it working with a tow pro? have a boat trailer with a hydrastar unit and need to pull seperate power feed to provide power to the actuator from somewhere. In my old 100 series it was via pin 2 directly back to
Battery in the 7 pin socket on the vehicle but not sure if that will work on the grenadier.
Pretty sure the wiring from Pin 2 was direct to the battery and was also split from the Anderson plug. I am having an Anderson fitted this week so can ask to get a split out and back into
The euro socket pin 2
I know I can just take a feed off an Anderson to trailer harness separately but would prefer to keep it simpler and tidier if possible as per my previous install.
Just wondering Has anyone got an electric over hydraulic brake actuator on the their trailer and managed to get it working with a tow pro? have a boat trailer with a hydrastar unit and need to pull seperate power feed to provide power to the actuator from somewhere. In my old 100 series it was via pin 2 directly back to
Battery in the 7 pin socket on the vehicle but not sure if that will work on the grenadier.
Pretty sure the wiring from Pin 2 was direct to the battery and was also split from the Anderson plug. I am having an Anderson fitted this week so can ask to get a split out and back into
The euro socket pin 2
I know I can just take a feed off an Anderson to trailer harness separately but would prefer to keep it simpler and tidier if possible as per my previous install.
@Znargfh, did you receive the Euro socket pins and seals required for step 6 in the kit EBDK-030?I finally tracked down the elusive part # EBDK-030.
It's a complete brake controller kit which inlcudes a Redarc Tow-Pro Elite and all the bits (including instructions) to fit it. Available from Dealers for just under AUD500.
I've already purchased a Tow-Pro and will try to figure out the wiring on the weekend.
Hi Clark Kent. Did you order the pins and seals from mouser and if so did you pay the $24 postage? They appear to no other option unless you spend $60 and then free postage.Update:
The Euro socket OEM is Plastipart but they don't appear to sell spare parts in small quantities. The equivalent TE brand part numbers are listed in the Redarc EBDK-03 instructions.
Seal PN 963292-1. Contact PN 925661-1
The TE contacts and seals (x2 each) are available from DigiKey and Mouser.
Mouser AU site links for reference (use the Mouser distribution site closest to your location):
contact
seal
Hey @ShippaHi Clark Kent. Did you order the pins and seals from mouser and if so did you pay the $24 postage? They appear to no other option unless you spend $60 and then free postage.
No, had to order them from the US with ridiculous shipping costs. I bought ten of each just in case I stuffed on up (and I did).@Znargfh, did you receive the Euro socket pins and seals required for step 6 in the kit EBDK-030?
They are not in my kit?
If you mean the power cable going to the INTERIOR ELECTRICAL CENTRE (circled in red above and what I call Fuse Box 1), the power appears to come from Stud 3 on the 7 Stud busbar with a ZCASE® MEGA fuse rated at 150 amps marked with Blue tape (RD Wire). For more detail look here and here.Before I remove my drawer system, to remove my seat, to remove my battery panelling.... Where is this power coming from to supply this whole fuse panel module. I am hoping to piggy back of it for a ctek250se smart charger, as I have no dual battery system. obviously fusing etc just want to know whether it would be a good spot too... somewhat would be temporary until I remove the whole drawer unit, seat, and panelling etc.
TIA
I finally tracked down the elusive part # EBDK-030.
It's a complete brake controller kit which inlcudes a Redarc Tow-Pro Elite and all the bits (including instructions) to fit it. Available from Dealers for just under AUD500.
I've already purchased a Tow-Pro and will try to figure out the wiring on the weekend.