Brake Controller Pigtail?

[Korg]

another option
View attachment 7830776

Had to look 3 times to see it in between the gear selector and centre diff lock knob.

 

[bakepl]

Had to look 3 times to see it in between the gear selector and centre diff lock knob.

Yes easy to get to (and see led colours) for driver or passenger....

 

[Znarfgh]

another option
View attachment 7830776

I had a look at putting it there bit could not work out how to get the harness through to the drivers side under dash area. How did you route the cable?

 

[bakepl]

I had a look at putting it there bit could not work out how to get the harness through to the drivers side under dash area. How did you route the cable?

Brake controller (and auto resetting breaker) is located directly behind the aux battery mounted on a bracket that is already there. The wires for the control knob run forward under the centre consul.

Borrowed the below image from another post. Just need to trim out a little of the clip holder using a dremel or similar between the levers.

 

[Znarfgh]

I eventually mounted mine in the recommended position as I was not in the mood to take the centre console off.

The control box I mounted under the steering column just to the right of the stereo - I needed to extend the wiring harness to do this. I had to make up a bracket to mount it here but did not have to drill any holes as they were already there. 3 Rivnuts and all is good. Getting hold of the terminals for the rear socket is more complicated with freight being the killer!

 

[Znarfgh]

So for those of you wanting to use the Ineos instructions for your install, here are my findings.

1. The blue wire is supposed to go to the blank pin 12. This did not work for me and I had to swop pin 5 with pin 12.
2. Pin 2 is listed as the fog light and pin 8 as the reverse. Again, this did not work as the reverse lights on the van only worked when I activated the fog light switch. I swopped pin 8 and pin two on the socket and all was good.

Those two wires cost me two days of working on the problem and trial and error - it did my head in but happy days, it all works now.

Next time (if there is a next time) I'll drive it into an auto sparky and let them sort it!

 

[skoller]

So for those of you wanting to use the Ineos instructions for your install, here are my findings.

1. The blue wire is supposed to go to the blank pin 12. This did not work for me and I had to swop pin 5 with pin 12.
2. Pin 2 is listed as the fog light and pin 8 as the reverse. Again, this did not work as the reverse lights on the van only worked when I activated the fog light switch. I swopped pin 8 and pin two on the socket and all was good.

Those two wires cost me two days of working on the problem and trial and error - it did my head in but happy days, it all works now.

Next time (if there is a next time) I'll drive it into an auto sparky and let them sort it!

Nice work. Where did you pick up the power feed from.

 

[Znarfgh]

As per the EBDK-030 instructions.

 

[YIPPE]

As per the EBDK-030 instructions.

View attachment 7832123

Before I remove my drawer system, to remove my seat, to remove my battery panelling.... Where is this power coming from to supply this whole fuse panel module. I am hoping to piggy back of it for a ctek250se smart charger, as I have no dual battery system. obviously fusing etc just want to know whether it would be a good spot too... somewhat would be temporary until I remove the whole drawer unit, seat, and panelling etc.

TIA

 

[Znarfgh]

Before I remove my drawer system, to remove my seat, to remove my battery panelling.... Where is this power coming from to supply this whole fuse panel module. I am hoping to piggy back of it for a ctek250se smart charger, as I have no dual battery system. obviously fusing etc just want to know whether it would be a good spot too... somewhat would be temporary until I remove the whole drawer unit, seat, and panelling etc.

TIA

I'm pretty sure it comes from the starter battery - can't check at the moment but will confirm when I can. You should be able to trace the wire yourself without disassembling the car - just lift the PS rear seat and have a look. Mine's a 2 seater with a lid insteadof rear seat.

 

[Stu_Barnes]

Here you go Steve.

Just stumbled on this. Its now in the Resources section as well.

Redrac Electric Brake Controller

Installation instructions for the Redraw EBDK-030 See download for full instructions. Thanks to @Znarfgh for posting

www.theineosforum.com

Thanks for posting @Znarfgh

 

[Thomski]

Just wondering Has anyone got an electric over hydraulic brake actuator on the their trailer and managed to get it working with a tow pro? have a boat trailer with a hydrastar unit and need to pull seperate power feed to provide power to the actuator from somewhere. In my old 100 series it was via pin 2 directly back to
Battery in the 7 pin socket on the vehicle but not sure if that will work on the grenadier.

Pretty sure the wiring from Pin 2 was direct to the battery and was also split from the Anderson plug. I am having an Anderson fitted this week so can ask to get a split out and back into
The euro socket pin 2

I know I can just take a feed off an Anderson to trailer harness separately but would prefer to keep it simpler and tidier if possible as per my previous install.

 

[Lord Ripon USA]

Just wondering Has anyone got an electric over hydraulic brake actuator on the their trailer and managed to get it working with a tow pro? have a boat trailer with a hydrastar unit and need to pull seperate power feed to provide power to the actuator from somewhere. In my old 100 series it was via pin 2 directly back to
Battery in the 7 pin socket on the vehicle but not sure if that will work on the grenadier.

Pretty sure the wiring from Pin 2 was direct to the battery and was also split from the Anderson plug. I am having an Anderson fitted this week so can ask to get a split out and back into
The euro socket pin 2

I know I can just take a feed off an Anderson to trailer harness separately but would prefer to keep it simpler and tidier if possible as per my previous install.

This is a thing that I have great interest in.
Still waiting to see how IA makes trailer towing work on US vehicles.
I really don’t want a crude knee basher in the footwell.
I have never read anything about a 7 pin round as part of the hitch either.
So we wait.

 

[Rok_Dr]

Just wondering Has anyone got an electric over hydraulic brake actuator on the their trailer and managed to get it working with a tow pro? have a boat trailer with a hydrastar unit and need to pull seperate power feed to provide power to the actuator from somewhere. In my old 100 series it was via pin 2 directly back to
Battery in the 7 pin socket on the vehicle but not sure if that will work on the grenadier.

Pretty sure the wiring from Pin 2 was direct to the battery and was also split from the Anderson plug. I am having an Anderson fitted this week so can ask to get a split out and back into
The euro socket pin 2

I know I can just take a feed off an Anderson to trailer harness separately but would prefer to keep it simpler and tidier if possible as per my previous install.

I'm not sure this will solve your issue, but I had a similar problem with my Cub camper trailer. It needs a hot wire to Pin 2 to trigger the trailer’s Redarc BMS to enable charging of the house batteries from the Anderson plug when the vehicle is running. I'm keeping the 13 pin EU plug on the Grenadier so I bought a Narva 13 pin EU to 7 pin flat adapter and rewired it to connect pin 9 on the EU plug to pin 2 on the flat plug. The Grenadier has pin 9 wired up. None of my trailers have reversing lights so this wire could be disconnected. See attached pic.

If you need power to be ignition switched (pin 10) then there is lot more work as Ineos have not run any wiring to this pin on the vehicle.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Craig]

I finally tracked down the elusive part # EBDK-030.

It's a complete brake controller kit which inlcudes a Redarc Tow-Pro Elite and all the bits (including instructions) to fit it. Available from Dealers for just under AUD500.

I've already purchased a Tow-Pro and will try to figure out the wiring on the weekend.

@Znargfh, did you receive the Euro socket pins and seals required for step 6 in the kit EBDK-030?
They are not in my kit?

 

[Shippa]

Update:

The Euro socket OEM is Plastipart but they don't appear to sell spare parts in small quantities. The equivalent TE brand part numbers are listed in the Redarc EBDK-03 instructions.
Seal PN 963292-1. Contact PN 925661-1

The TE contacts and seals (x2 each) are available from DigiKey and Mouser.
Mouser AU site links for reference (use the Mouser distribution site closest to your location):

contact
seal

Hi Clark Kent. Did you order the pins and seals from mouser and if so did you pay the $24 postage? They appear to no other option unless you spend $60 and then free postage.

 

[Clark Kent]

Hi Clark Kent. Did you order the pins and seals from mouser and if so did you pay the $24 postage? They appear to no other option unless you spend $60 and then free postage.

Hey @Shippa

I got lucky on this and picked up a spare contact and seal from another forum user who converted to an Aussie socket so I didn't need to buy anything.
The A$24 shipping is a bit rude.

Suggest you ask on the forum if someone has some spare pins, or ring around some of the city agents like SLRV or Ignition to see if they have a harvested socket they will pull some contacts from. A few in the Aus FB group have also done conversions and may have something.

@Aussie Battler mentioned here a complete socket on EBay for 23 bucks but didn't provide a link. Try EBay or hit up Aussie Battler.

 

[Znarfgh]

@Znargfh, did you receive the Euro socket pins and seals required for step 6 in the kit EBDK-030?
They are not in my kit?

No, had to order them from the US with ridiculous shipping costs. I bought ten of each just in case I stuffed on up (and I did).

 

[TheDocAUS]

Before I remove my drawer system, to remove my seat, to remove my battery panelling.... Where is this power coming from to supply this whole fuse panel module. I am hoping to piggy back of it for a ctek250se smart charger, as I have no dual battery system. obviously fusing etc just want to know whether it would be a good spot too... somewhat would be temporary until I remove the whole drawer unit, seat, and panelling etc.

TIA

If you mean the power cable going to the INTERIOR ELECTRICAL CENTRE (circled in red above and what I call Fuse Box 1), the power appears to come from Stud 3 on the 7 Stud busbar with a ZCASE® MEGA fuse rated at 150 amps marked with Blue tape (RD Wire). For more detail look here and here.

 

[jevering]

I finally tracked down the elusive part # EBDK-030.

It's a complete brake controller kit which inlcudes a Redarc Tow-Pro Elite and all the bits (including instructions) to fit it. Available from Dealers for just under AUD500.

I've already purchased a Tow-Pro and will try to figure out the wiring on the weekend.

New here Trying to figure this out for myself. Is that part # (EBDK-030) an Ineos part #, Redarc, some other company? Thanks!