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Auxiliary LEDs - Lightbars, Lights, Pods

marcusnilsson

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Interestingly, the 52" STAK light bar is rated @ 23.2Amps @ 13.6V

This means 26.33Amps @ 12V.
Or 'out of spec' for the pedantics/lawyers but (probably) OK for the realists (who would only turn it on with the engine running anyway)...

Thank you for taking the time to write the very informative post above ! And for clarifying regarding the Stedi 52. 👍🏻

I’m still conflicted about how to interpret this part:

“The fuse is "rated" at approx 66% of its load. This means that a 10Amp fuse will not get hot enough to melt until more than 13Amps tries to get through it.
The fuse is also tolerant of a spike in power which means it can cope with 13A but not for long (a second or three) but it will melt pretty quickly is 20Amps went through it.”

Can a 10A fuse “handle” a load between 10-13A over time?

Or a real world example; what happens if K1LL3M turns on the LED-bar with the ignition off ?
 
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I’m still conflicted about how to interpret this part:

“The fuse is "rated" at approx 66% of its load. This means that a 10Amp fuse will not get hot enough to melt until more than 13Amps tries to get through it.
The fuse is also tolerant of a spike in power which means it can cope with 13A but not for long (a second or three) but it will melt pretty quickly is 20Amps went through it.”

Can a 10A fuse “handle” a load between 10-13A over time?

Yes a 10A fuse can handle more than 10A over time but will get hot.
As the load goes over 13A it will most likely get hot enough to melt and the circuit will be broken.
Getting hot and cold (turned on and off) over time will also weaken the fuse, as the metal expands and contracts, eventually it will crack.
A fuse will last longer if the current does not exceed its rated value and progressively less time as the current increases.

std-fuse.jpg


Or a real world example; what happens if K1LL3M turns on the LED-bar with the ignition off ?

So, if the battery is fully charged (lets say 12.5V) then the current will be 25.24 Amps.
The 25A fuse and cables will be fine.
As the battery discharges and the voltage falls, to say 12V, he will draw 26.33 Amps.
The fuse will warm up and expand a little, but still not fail.
After a while the battery will discharge a little more and when it gets to 11.5V the lamp will draw around 27.5A at this point, the fuse will still be 'continuous' and will be a tad warmer...

Depending on what else was 'on' in the car the battery would start to get damaged at this point.
I don't have a Grenny so don't know for sure what battery is installed so don't know the C number (dishcharge rating).
Peukerts law comes into effect in that the faster that you discharge a lead acid battery of any type, the less energy you can get out of it.

This means the voltage will drop faster and the current drain will increase, so with around 9.5V in the battery the fuse will get hot enough to melt.

This is all a bit extreme though.
In real terms then, only the pedants/lawyers will be concerned that a greater than rated load was being applied 'if' there was any related warranty or insurance claim requested.
These lights won't pop the fuse, won't set fire to the cables, so shouldn't be a problem.
 

marcusnilsson

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Fantastic stuff ! 10 points to you good Sir !

Now I finally have an idea of how to proceed with the LED’s 👍🏻.
 

AlexAdv

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Just ordered 2 Siberia Skylord from Strands (https://strandseurope.com/product/siberia-skylord-driving-light-9/). I would like to fit them on the front bar. I also have a mount for them that ia fitted under the license plate (see picture). What do you guys recommend for the wiring? From where and how? Given that the leds also have position light (amber or white) and i would like this position light to always be on like a DRL. The led has a DT-4 connection.
 

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grnamin

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Just ordered 2 Siberia Skylord from Strands (https://strandseurope.com/product/siberia-skylord-driving-light-9/). I would like to fit them on the front bar. I also have a mount for them that ia fitted under the license plate (see picture). What do you guys recommend for the wiring? From where and how? Given that the leds also have position light (amber or white) and i would like this position light to always be on like a DRL. The led has a DT-4 connection.
Nice choice! Wiring would go through the grill to the left side of the vehicle over to where the power relays are. I taped the ends of the wiring onto a relatively stiff piece of titanium wire and used that to route the wiring through the grill.
1000008059.jpg
 

AWo

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Just ordered 2 Siberia Skylord from Strands (https://strandseurope.com/product/siberia-skylord-driving-light-9/). I would like to fit them on the front bar. I also have a mount for them that ia fitted under the license plate (see picture). What do you guys recommend for the wiring? From where and how? Given that the leds also have position light (amber or white) and i would like this position light to always be on like a DRL. The led has a DT-4 connection.
Strands also has the right wirings incl. The possibility to use the high beam signal for the high beam lights....and there is at least one company in Germany which offers a small adapter cable, which is missing in the Strands cable kit.

AWo
 

ADVAW8S

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Just released, upgrade the off road lights on grill. Factory finish but pricey.

 

marcusnilsson

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Just released, upgrade the off road lights on grill. Factory finish but pricey.


Seems to be the same as this;


And this;


Or ? 🤔
 

Ovrland Bill

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I can only say that these lights give the car a ‘beady eyed’ look (i.e. too small).
 

shiv.nandak

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Has anyone found heated aux lights? For the days when the snow is wet and the main lights get covered. I found lights that are used by snow plows, but I prefer a slim/elegant solution.
 

K1LL3M

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I wish these 52" bars were available in the US. I can't even find anyone abroad who will ship it.
If you use a VPN and set it for Australia, you should then be able to order it from the Australian website, which looks like it allows you to ship it to the US.

Alternatively, you could try to contact Stedi directly and ask the question.
 

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JGM

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If you use a VPN and set it for Australia, you should then be able to order it from the Australian website, which looks like it allows you to ship it to the US.

Alternatively, you could try to contact Stedi directly and ask the question.
I did contact them directly. They said that it was in the works to release the longer LED bars in the US, but there was no timeframe for that happening. I'm not sure why they would supply most of their products via NAPA Auto Parts and leave the longer variants out. Perhaps it's some US governmental nonsense...
 

K1LL3M

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I did contact them directly. They said that it was in the works to release the longer LED bars in the US, but there was no timeframe for that happening. I'm not sure why they would supply most of their products via NAPA Auto Parts and leave the longer variants out. Perhaps it's some US governmental nonsense...
Most decisions we wonder about can be chased back to government nonsense.

Use a VPN and order directly via the AU website. As posted previously the website allows a US shipping address, so I can't see why it wouldn't work. And on the plus side you get the benefit of a strong USD > AUD value, but of course you'll also pay more in postage 🤷‍♂️
 

Jiman01

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I wish these 52" bars were available in the US. I can't even find anyone abroad who will ship it.
50" won't work?


 

Ccam

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IMG_7594.jpeg
Baja Design LP6 Pro Amber. High beam tied into 25A upswitch, backlight into 10A under upswitch. Both sets of wires located port side (drivers US) under hood. Skipped low beam connection. I run amber LP4’s on CanAm they are amazing!
 

grnamin

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View attachment 7845061Baja Design LP6 Pro Amber. High beam tied into 25A upswitch, backlight into 10A under upswitch. Both sets of wires located port side (drivers US) under hood. Skipped low beam connection. I run amber LP4’s on CanAm they are amazing!
Very nice work! Any drilling needed to mount?
 

Ccam

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Very nice work! Any drilling needed to mount?
Yes, but just the cover plate. Probably 1/2” styrofoam between cover plate and real bumper. Measure 2x, mark, drill. Pull plate to secure bolts. Set far enough away from grill to allow a little angle adjustment and power plug.
 

Krabby

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Yes, but just the cover plate. Probably 1/2” styrofoam between cover plate and real bumper. Measure 2x, mark, drill. Pull plate to secure bolts. Set far enough away from grill to allow a little angle adjustment and power plug.
Did you add any rust protection to the holes?
 
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I have never owned auxiliary LEDs. Instead, my experience has been with the likes of bumper-mounted Hella 4000's, IPF 900's, or roof-rack-mounted Hella 500's. I've ordered the full Rhino rack but no the factory lightbar. My plan is to install my own roof lighting, and probably in the old school format - 2x forward cornering beams + 2x forward flood beams + LH/RH/Rear work lights.

Are LED lightbars any good? Were they just pushed to the market? Do they have legitimate advantages?
Tom109: I have run Baja Designs OX7 led light bars for 10 years is very harsh environments. I use them on my work truck and my LR4. I am adding them next month to my Grenadier which will arrive next week. The Baja Design product has a life time warranty. I recently called them and they game me a 100% credit to replace one that was experiencing some flickering. Be careful about mounting them on the roof. I was getting so much glare off the hood I needed to apply a flat black wrap to the hood to kill the glare. Now I only mount them on the front bumper area.
 
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