I think you can still rig with a snatchblock, especially if you already have one and don't want to go to the expense of a 2nd snatch ring.
I’m with you there. Unfortunately I sold all my kit with the Landy as a ready to go overland vehicle. So all new snatch rings and soft shackles for me
This guy has some very informative videos
That’s a key ring
The best thing to do would be to take an off-road driving course that includes winching. One way to find a course is through a local 4x4 rescue group (if there is one near you), or you can just google around, read reviews, etc. to find a course that has a good reputation.
I didn’t like to say/be rude... but that was also my conclusion.That’s a key ring
A rope guard stored against the fairlead would be better, or at least sleeve the exposed section of line.I didn’t like to say/be rude... but that was also my conclusion.
Maybe done better here:View attachment 7797908
Do you have a list of what’s included in the recovery kit. I took a punt and have already ordered it.
These are good finds DCPU.I think I might be reading/watching these later:
Basic Guide to Winch Rigging
We have put together this video of basic winch rigging techniques to show you how to get the most out of your truck or SUV's winch.international.warn.com
Basic Winch Techniques
We’ve put together this Basic Winch Techniques video to give you simple quick-start guide to using your WARN winch.international.warn.com
He is a reference.
That's an example of what I'm referring to as a 'pin-retained shackle'. The issue with using this on a naked loop is that it will stress the dyneema, correct fitment would be to a loop which is supported by a thimble.
Just looking at the picture of the kit in the configurator it shows the 12t ring not the 5t one.
This is like saying you can’t drive a vehicle with 4 bikes hanging off the back of a car on a bike rack. The rear overhang of most cars is significantly longer then the front, a bike rack can weigh 100 lbs and 4 bikes another 130ish. So you are talking about 230 lbs, over 100kg unweighting the front end. It certainly doesn’t make a 6000lb vehicle unsafe to drive. People are really worried about this, we aren’t talking about a 1800lb track car here.
No, not really. The front is different from the rear. Weight off your ass-end won’t affect your steering nearly as much. And If what you are saying is true, manufacturers like Ineos, Ram, Ford, etc. wouldn’t have different front springs based on bumper, winch, snow plow, etc. but by all means, order the steel bumper, Roo bar, and winch, and demand the light-duty springs
You are seriously comparing adding a 1000lb plow built to drag on the ground while hanging 4 feet in front of the axle and pushing 500lbs of snow into a pile to adding a 50lb winch that will be used while the vehicle is not in motion? I will stand by my previous comment that while it "may" make a difference that 50lbs isn't going to be noticeable. In my previous example of adding the bikes to the rear of the vehicle you would need to a lighter sprung front end. When you add an oversize spare and 10gallons of fuel to the back end of the truck are you planning on changing your front springs again? Throw 4 bikes on the back hanging 6ft behind the rear axle, how much will that affect your handling. Even if you add another 100 lbs of mass to the front you are talking about 1.5% of the total system. The good ole days of adding 275 lbs of winch and bumper while removing a 10lb bumper don't apply here. I am going to trust Ineos here and simply not worry or demand anything. Go ahead and demand a front spring though that has 1.5% more load carrying capacity, maybe instead of a 600lb spring rate it is 609 lb.No, not really. The front is different from the rear. Weight off your ass-end won’t affect your steering nearly as much. And If what you are saying is true, manufacturers like Ineos, Ram, Ford, etc. wouldn’t have different front springs based on bumper, winch, snow plow, etc. but by all means, order the steel bumper, Roo bar, and winch, and demand the light-duty springs
