You can learn something new every day.counter point to that is that alloy is stronger
You can learn something new every day.counter point to that is that alloy is stronger
Note: a few ideas for the utility rails there as well, gents!Those pictured are the steel rims, was that the intention?
I share the belief that a catastrophic impact that would destroy an alloy wheel intended for 4WD use would typically also damage a steel equivalent beyond further use, emphasising this is pure speculation as side-by-side testing is difficult.
As you say, the difference being that a steel rim with either inboard or outboard rim damage within reason can be dealt with trail side while equivalently minor damage to an alloy wheel (eg a crack to the inboard rim only) wants a TIG/MIG welder which might not be to hand.
Even minor cracking of the outboard rim or a spoke is a structural failure on an alloy and is to my knowledge irreparable... but I stress I've only ever seen it happen on SUVs. I presume Ineos alloys will be suitably robust.
I see the ADF/Army G-Wagon fleet operate alloys and carry a single spare... Bundeswehr G-Wagen versions have steel beadlock type things like the Tonka truck at bottom.
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That's a standard equipment for even the simplest Overlander.a TIG/MIG welder which might not be to hand
See, this is where I go wrong @emax - lack of preparationThat's a standard equipment for even the simplest Overlander.
The Queenslanders are asking, where's the esky?See, this is where I go wrong @emax - lack of preparation
You just use the “tools” at hand to make a suggestion that your opposition give you their esky. (Beer cooler)The Queenslanders are asking, where's the esky?
I really haven't been able to decide and probably won't until I have a car to view but in a perfect world we should be able to remove covers and get into that tail light cavity and yes stainless screws would be optimal, pending on the metal it is going through. If it is aluminum you have to coat the stainless to stop corrosion or rethink...I also need to know if the ladder will be an issue when the door is opened...happy motoringMax - those rear light protectors are held by metal screws into the rear panel?
Won't perhaps work. If you tighten the screws, they will likely get into contact with the alloy.If it is aluminum you have to coat the stainless to stop corrosion or rethink...
Aluminium rivnuts?Won't perhaps work. If you tighten the screws, they will likely get into contact with the alloy.
Plastic bushings would do (functionally similar to dowels).
Sounds good. But the problem is two different metals. When moisture is added, they form a battery and the flowing current will erode the inferior material. If you screw an iron-based bolt into aluminum, even if it's a rivet nut, the problem surfaces.Aluminium rivnuts?
I understood globalgregors was meaning alu rivnuts into alu?? I ie same/same.Sounds good. But the problem is two different metals. When moisture is added, they form a battery and the flowing current will erode the inferior material. If you screw an iron-based bolt into aluminum, even if it's a rivet nut, the problem surfaces.
This is the old standard enemy of the (real) Defenders.
Yup, precisely.I understood globalgregors was meaning alu rivnuts into alu?? I ie same/same.
I've had many a problem with alu into steel requiring acid baths
White lettering on the inside for me.My understanding is the tyres come with white lettering on one side and black on the other so you can choose which way you prefer
Still undecided on the white lettering. Will run them as delivered until fit my winter wheels/tyres and then have them reversed if needs be at the tyre shop when pick up the mudsWhite lettering on the inside for me.