Should I ? - Wheels

[globalgregors]

I have chosen the 17" alloys with the K02 tyres which sadly they don't show.
View attachment 7795298

The best looking combo, to my taste at least... nice and easy to get a Jack Mate onto as well.

 

[AnD3rew]

I have ordered the Belstaff Trialmaster in Donny grey.

As everyone knows these come with the steel 17” wheels as standard with the BFG’s

I have since configured the IG with the 17” alloy wheels from the Fieldmaster. I am hooked now. They are another £500 roughly speaking but I am cancelling the OEM seat covers which are about the same price. The alloys look great and lift the vehicle appearance.

Do I order them or not. I am trying to weigh up the pros and cons. My initial thought is it would be cheaper to buy steel wheels on the aftermarket than it would be to get a set of alloys should the need arise.

Also they alloys are lighter and will make a small difference on MPG.

Anything else I should consider and who else is thinking the same ?

I like the look of steel wheels in some vehicles but I think the Grenadier ones just don’t look quite right. To my eye the 17” alloys with the BFG tyres are the best looking of all the choices. Alloys are lighter, the 18” will be the lighest wheel tyre combo, but I don’t like the look of the Grenadier 18” with fake beadlock. Some make the point that steelies are able to bash back into shape with a hammer offroad, but counter point to that is that alloy is stronger and less likely to deform in the first place. In either case you will likely have to replace when you get home because even the steelie will probably never be completely true again.

 

[AnD3rew]

I had alloys on my Benz. After 22 winters with salt on the roads they look so ugly that I'll not buy alloys any more. You can not restore them which is possible with steel rims: Sandblast and powdering will help. And even if not steel is less costly to replace.

So I decided for steel rims. And off road they can stand more punishing.

Admittedly, the alloys look indeed good. But I'm too old for such whim-wham.

Depending on the alloys, many of them can be refurbished, but probably only worthwhile if originality is important as aftermarket replacement will usually be cheaper and less hassle as it is an instant changover.

 

[AnD3rew]

It is on a tidal creek.
So when the tide is going out he water is fresh and almost no salt.
When it is coming back in the water is brackish, so salt but not heavy.
You can't smell salt
Have a look at the Grenadier Australia original video on Fraser Island



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I have a place a little further South on Lake Cootharaba, but I have been doing beach driving for decades an all me vehicles except for my first Suzuki, have had alloys and none have been noticably affected by salt. Curb rash etc from unnamed others driving them yes, but not salt.

 

[AnD3rew]

I havent seen any photos of the PT02 vehicles with the 17 inch alloys. They all seem to be running with the steel rims or the 18 inch alloys.

 

[emax]

counter point to that is that alloy is stronger

You can learn something new every day.

 

[globalgregors]

Those pictured are the steel rims, was that the intention?

I share the belief that a catastrophic impact that would destroy an alloy wheel intended for 4WD use would typically also damage a steel equivalent beyond further use, emphasising this is pure speculation as side-by-side testing is difficult.

As you say, the difference being that a steel rim with either inboard or outboard rim damage within reason can be dealt with trail side while equivalently minor damage to an alloy wheel (eg a crack to the inboard rim only) wants a TIG/MIG welder which might not be to hand.

Even minor cracking of the outboard rim or a spoke is a structural failure on an alloy and is to my knowledge irreparable... but I stress I've only ever seen it happen on SUVs. I presume Ineos alloys will be suitably robust.

I see the ADF/Army G-Wagon fleet operate alloys and carry a single spare... Bundeswehr G-Wagen versions have steel beadlock type things like the Tonka truck at bottom.

 

[globalgregors]

Those pictured are the steel rims, was that the intention?

I share the belief that a catastrophic impact that would destroy an alloy wheel intended for 4WD use would typically also damage a steel equivalent beyond further use, emphasising this is pure speculation as side-by-side testing is difficult.

As you say, the difference being that a steel rim with either inboard or outboard rim damage within reason can be dealt with trail side while equivalently minor damage to an alloy wheel (eg a crack to the inboard rim only) wants a TIG/MIG welder which might not be to hand.

Even minor cracking of the outboard rim or a spoke is a structural failure on an alloy and is to my knowledge irreparable... but I stress I've only ever seen it happen on SUVs. I presume Ineos alloys will be suitably robust.

I see the ADF/Army G-Wagon fleet operate alloys and carry a single spare... Bundeswehr G-Wagen versions have steel beadlock type things like the Tonka truck at bottom.


View attachment 7795459View attachment 7795460

Note: a few ideas for the utility rails there as well, gents!

 

[emax]

a TIG/MIG welder which might not be to hand

That's a standard equipment for even the simplest Overlander.

 

[globalgregors]

That's a standard equipment for even the simplest Overlander.

See, this is where I go wrong @emax - lack of preparation

 

[Max]

See, this is where I go wrong @emax - lack of preparation

The Queenslanders are asking, where's the esky?

 

[Davman]

The Queenslanders are asking, where's the esky?

You just use the “tools” at hand to make a suggestion that your opposition give you their esky. (Beer cooler)

 

[Max]

use the “tools” at hand
Well said...

Kulhbox, chilly bin, ice box to name a few...

 

[Camskii]

Funny looking alloys there

 

[Max]

Funny looking alloys there

An idea that I will play with...I am definitely going to have the 17 alloys...looking so smart and a touch tuff...happy motoring

 

[grenadierboy]

Max - those rear light protectors are held by metal screws into the rear panel?

 

[Max]

Max - those rear light protectors are held by metal screws into the rear panel?

I really haven't been able to decide and probably won't until I have a car to view but in a perfect world we should be able to remove covers and get into that tail light cavity and yes stainless screws would be optimal, pending on the metal it is going through. If it is aluminum you have to coat the stainless to stop corrosion or rethink...I also need to know if the ladder will be an issue when the door is opened...happy motoring

 

[emax]

If it is aluminum you have to coat the stainless to stop corrosion or rethink...

Won't perhaps work. If you tighten the screws, they will likely get into contact with the alloy.

Plastic bushings would do (functionally similar to dowels).

 

[bemax]

if you can screw it- glue it.

 

[globalgregors]

Won't perhaps work. If you tighten the screws, they will likely get into contact with the alloy.

Plastic bushings would do (functionally similar to dowels).

Aluminium rivnuts?