Should I ? - Wheels

[Logsplitter]

I'm a steel wheel person. And now , so is Ronny!

I can symphasise

I'm a steel wheel person. And now , so is Ronny!

i can sympathis, having had on one day three punctures in a day in Northern Namibia. Then the following day having had my tyres replaced , felt a terrible wobbling so stoped to check. One wheel stud left on front left and all other nuts loose on other wheels. Should have checked them more often as the corrugated roads were loosening the nuts as hadn’t been done up tight enough. Lesson learned. I thought it was just bad roads causing the wobble and noise until road workers flagged me down

 

[Tazzieman]

, having had on one day three punctures in a day in Northern Namibia. Then the following day having had my tyres replaced , felt a terrible wobbling so stoped to check. One wheel stud left on front left and all other nuts loose on other wheels. Should have checked them more often as the corrugated roads were loosening the nuts as hadn’t been done up tight enough. Lesson learned. I thought it was just bad roads causing the wobble and noise until road workers flagged me down

Someone will ask if the IG comes with a "wheel nut monitoring system". Apart from the one behind the steering wheel!
Thus far I have been lucky enough not to lose a wheel , though loose nut? Yep!

 

[emax]

If corrugations cause lose nuts, perhaps some drips of mild (222) Locktite might help?

 

[globalgregors]

If corrugations cause lose nuts, perhaps some drips of mild (222) Locktite might help?

Mining industry solution is low tech but effective: Checkpoint Indicators

 

[bemax]

I see those a lot in Germany as well. Easy to check an cheap to replace!

 

[Logsplitter]

And remember to check wheel nuts yourself after having wheels removed for servicing or tyre changes. Never had a problem since.

 

[Tazzieman]

And remember to check wheel nuts yourself after having wheels removed for servicing or tyre changes. Never had a problem since.

And I never trusted a rattle gun. Overtightening ain't good either!

 

[ECrider]

And I never trusted a rattle gun. Overtightening ain't good either!

especially if anything like the ones my D4 used to have, I've had higher tensile chocolate!

chucked them all in the bin together with those atrocious locking security nuts. Now have solid stainless.

 

[Krabby]

Mining industry solution is low tech but effective: Checkpoint Indicators

All of our school buses use these too. Easy solution.

 

[Tazzieman]

. Now have solid stainless.

I've never used these. Any problems with galling?

 

[ECrider]

I've never used these. Any problems with galling?

no problems so far

this is the company;

Quality Engineered Wheel Nuts - Wrington Wheel Nuts

Wrington is the most prominent UK designer and manufacturer of corrosion resistant wheel nuts. Our Stainless Steel range provides 100% corrosion resistance for the lifetime of the product. Our Black Carbon Steel range has a superior Zinc Nickel Black plating that can withstand over 720 hours of...

www.wrington.co.uk

 

[Tazzieman]

no problems so far

this is the company;

Quality Engineered Wheel Nuts - Wrington Wheel Nuts

Wrington is the most prominent UK designer and manufacturer of corrosion resistant wheel nuts. Our Stainless Steel range provides 100% corrosion resistance for the lifetime of the product. Our Black Carbon Steel range has a superior Zinc Nickel Black plating that can withstand over 720 hours of...

www.wrington.co.uk

Some suggest a smear of copper grease, but that attracts grit and affects torque settings. Main thing is for the threads to withstand the forces!

 

[ECrider]

Some suggest a smear of copper grease, but that attracts grit and affects torque settings. Main thing is for the threads to withstand the forces!

I apply a smidge of copper grease and test tighten them everytime I check pressures or inflate/deflate. Does effect torque but I'm more worried about seizure than the little effect on torque values

 

[Tazzieman]

I apply a smidge of copper grease and test tighten them everytime I check pressures or inflate/deflate. Does effect torque but I'm more worried about seizure than the little effect on torque values

That's what I do with spark plugs and other fasteners ; nothing worse than a seized bolt or stud!

 

[emax]

Some suggest a smear of copper grease, but that attracts grit and affects torque settings. Main thing is for the threads to withstand the forces!

Never ever lubricate screws before screwing them in. If they have no friction, any torque setting is invalid.

 

[Spjnr]

Never ever lubricate screws before screwing them in. If they have no friction, any torque setting is invalid.

There was a huge thread about this topic on Arbtalk (Arborist forum I'm on), as it relates to blade bolts on woodchipper flywheels.

Different manufacturers even were on either side of the argument. Someone's blade bolts had sheared off, and too much copper slip resulting in over torqueing was to blame. The manufacturer had blamed the use of the lubricant and voided the warranty.

 

[Tazzieman]

There was a huge thread about this topic on Arbtalk (Arborist forum I'm on), as it relates to blade bolts on woodchipper flywheels.

Different manufacturers even were on either side of the argument. Someone's blade bolts had sheared off, and too much copper slip resulting in over torqueing was to blame. The manufacturer had blamed the use of the lubricant and voided the warranty.

When you've had to helicoil the alloy block on an expensive Porsche V8 engine , because the old steel factory bolts (A total of 14 hold the water pump on) had galled themselves in, you realise that sometimes you have to compromise.
But by and large do what the factory manual recommends . A little antiseize or oil on the threads can save a ton of hurt later. As long as you know the metallurgy and are prepared to wear the consequences of your actions , I see no problem at all!

 

[Spjnr]

When you've had to helicoil the alloy block on an expensive Porsche V8 engine , because the old steel factory bolts (A total of 14 hold the water pump on) had galled themselves in, you realise that sometimes you have to compromise.
But by and large do what the factory manual recommends . A little antiseize or oil on the threads can save a ton of hurt later. As long as you know the metallurgy and are prepared to wear the consequences of your actions , I see no problem at all!

Oh yes im in agreement. Just pointing out an example of how it effects torque settings substantially. It generally comes down to how often said bolt is being removed, for instance the blade bolts on my Woodchipper are removed at least once a month to facilitate blade change, so they don't tend to have time to seize up. Couple this with how catastrophic a 3kg blade breaking off and being sent through the spout by a 3000rpm flywheel is, it makes sense to leave the lubricant on the bench!
That being said, with other bolts that are staying in place for months or years, a bit of preventative lube wont hurt. As you say, as long as you understand the consequences

 

[Tazzieman]

. Couple this with how catastrophic a 3kg blade breaking off and being sent through the spout by a 3000rpm flywheel is, it makes sense to leave the lubricant on the bench!

There is a reason lawnmower blades always come with new bolts and washers!

 

[emax]

If a screw is lubricated, it can easily break off because the intended torque is not reached in time.

This seems to be a religious matter in many discussions. But I stand by my experience.

There is however a difference between oil and grease or copper paste. Copper paste contains fine ground copper and may be suitable in many cases. But I am still very reluctant to change anything if it will affect the friction values between a critical bolted joint. Especially when things like a cylinder head, an oil pump cover or the like are involved.


PS: Another confusion exists between lubrcation and mounting pastes. Mounting pastes usually contain friction improvers for the exact reason told above, which oil and grease do of course not.