WolfBox - As A New Vendor, Offering 20% Off Discount!

[DaBull]

Sorry meant Amazon not eBay.

Ball-mount shims - 16mm is your friend!

Amazon.com

Wolfbox bracket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BN31MBZP/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is all you need with an ADAS equipped vehicle. Works perfect.

Hi Asnes, Thanks for posting this great info. DaBull

 

[Robert T]

Be interesting to hear how you solve this…I have a Mac and iPad so would want to be able to use either. If it wont read then I wont be buying the Wolf Box

Per instructions from Wolfbox they said to format the memory card in your MacBook as MS DOS (FAT) BEFORE putting it into the Wolfbox mirror. Once in the mirror it will reformat it again. After going through this procedure I can now view recorded Wolfbox videos on my Mac using the Wolfbox player that needs to be downloaded from their site. Here is a link to the download page https://wolfbox.com/pages/wolfbox-player

 

[bakepl]

I've cracked the code on a mirror mount arm for MY23 RHD vehicles (not NA, not ADAS). It cost me four different arms as a trial but I finally found the solution. The recommended arm places the mirror at a good height for use and leaves plenty of room for the cables.

Dashcam/mirror arm No 11, available on Aliexpress here, is a drop in replacement for the D-tab arm supplied by Wolfbox in their OEM mount kit. You will still need the Wolfbox arm kit so you have the backing plate that screws onto the mirror. Once you have fitted the backing plate to the mirror, swap out the Wolfbox D-tab arm for arm #11. The ball head is the same size.

As noted earlier in this thread the screws that come in the Wolfbox arm kit are too long so the ball head is loose on the backing plate (disassembled pic for reference). It's the same problem with arm #11. Your choice is to either shorten the screws about 1.5mm (1/16"), or do as I did and make a packer to sit between the head and the backing plate. I used a piece of heavy card that will compress slightly as a vibration damper. Rubber sheet (e.g. inner tube) or silicone sheet would also work well. Again, this is a fault in the kit supplied by Wolfbox and nothing to do with the swapped arm.

Arm #11 is two-piece. Remove the #2 Phillips joining screw and attach the arm section to the windscreen screen. Attach the ball head and arm section to the mirror. Reassemble the two sections on the windscreen then install the screw from behind. This step is necessary because the arm has to rotate to engage the stud on the windscreen and the mirror is too long to do this as a complete assembly.
To tighten the screw use a stubby offset #2 Phillips, or a #2 bit and 1/4” ratchet wrench as I did (pic).

To remove the factory mirror wrap a leather riggers glove or similar heavy material around the arm to prevent damage, then grip it firmly with a set of multi-grips (slip-jaws, cobra pliers, etc.) and twist counter clockwise. The factory mirror arm is tight but take your time and grip firmly and it will come off. I put a few dabs of grease on the windscreen stud before fitting the new arm to make the job easier next time (hopefully not necessary..).

@Stu_Barnes If you communicate this arm info to Wolfbox they could package it in place of the D-tab arm as a MY23 Grenadier kit. They also need to supply a packer/gasket or shorter screws as noted.

@nishan
@Cheshire cat

Fitted arm #11 today no problems. For mine the screw lengths were fine and did not need to disassemble the new arm. i.e. mirror with it's new bracket attached straight to arm and the whole assembly then fitted to windscreen. Perfect solution thanks.

 

[Clark Kent]

Fitted arm #11 today no problems. For mine the screw lengths were fine and did not need to disassemble the new arm. i.e. mirror with it's new bracket attached straight to arm and the whole assembly then fitted to windscreen. Perfect solution thanks.

View attachment 7859609

That's great news @bakepl.
Which model mirror are you using?

 

[bakepl]

That's great news @bakepl.
Which model mirror are you using?

840S..is a great mirror.

 

[Finehomebuilder]

840S..is a great mirror.

Trying here. Anybody considered Rydeen Tombo 360? Looks to have ability to add blind spot detection.

 

[Cheshire cat]

One advantage of the likes of Wolfbox. If something far more superior arrives, one hasn’t lost a fortune on switching out.

 

[Clark Kent]

Hi @DaBull. Thank you.

First drive with the new arm today. There is some induced vibration in the mirror. I think it's due to the plastic backing plate supplied by Wolfbox being too thin for this application, and the G900 mirror is quite heavy. I would like to see Wolfbox offer a stiffer plate with rubber isolation for heavy duty 4WD applications. I have a spare Wolfbox OEM kit as part of my fitment trials so I can hack that to see how it might be improved.
I haven't tried the G900 over the factory mirror using the rubber bands. I suspect it might have slightly less vibration because the factory mirror would act as a stiffer arm.

As @AngusMacG noted the MY23 ROW uses a different mirror and arm because we don't currently have ADAS like all NA vehicles have. If the 67 Designs mount is not satisfactory then @Stu_Barnes noted earlier in this thread that Wolfbox were happy to produce a different mount.

A follow up...

I was having two issues with replacement mirror Arm 11 and with the Wolfbox OEM arm. Firstly the mass of the G900 mirror is likely a bit too much for the flimsy plastic OEM backing plate supplied by Wolfbox so road bumps cause the mirror to shake. Secondly, the engine/drivetrain buzz from my diesel caused the mirror to blur out at certain RPM (hello 1850-2000). To be clear, I'm talking about shaking and vibration in the mirror when using it as a plain mirror. I haven't yet fitted the rear camera but wanted to eliminate this issue before proceeding.

The solution - for me - was damping and stiffening between the mirror and backing plate.
1. I added a 1.5mm silicon gasket cut to fit between the backing plate and the back of the mirror so the gasket dampens vibrations instead of transmitting them from the mounting arm to the mirror. The silicone sheet came from a cheap lid gripper I got at a kitchen store. A old silicon baking mat or similar would suffice. The silicon isolates the buzz and the power button has stopped rattling

2. There is a cavity between the backing plate and the mirror when the two items are assembled. In effect the mirror only contacts the backing plate at the four corners/screw locations. You can flex the arm and mirror when they're assembled and see a lot of movement because the plate is too flexible. I fixed this by filling the cavity with a bed of silicon filler/adhesive (Silastic, Sikaflex, etc). I used just enough to fill the cavity and create more contact area between the mirror and the backing plate.
I added the silicon in small blobs to the backing plate and levelled it with a spatula dipped in soapy water, then covered the silicon with some cling film sprayed with soapy water on the silicon side. I then assembled the mirror, silicon gasket and backing plate. When it was dry I removed the cling film. The cling film step was necessary so I didn't unintentionally glue the mirror and backing plate together

That sounds like a lot of work. It really wasn't. I'm happy with my results.

 

[Bruce]

A follow up...

I was having two issues with replacement mirror Arm 11 and with the Wolfbox OEM arm. Firstly the mass of the G900 mirror is likely a bit too much for the flimsy plastic OEM backing plate supplied by Wolfbox so road bumps cause the mirror to shake. Secondly, the engine/drivetrain buzz from my diesel caused the mirror to blur out at certain RPM (hello 1850-2000). To be clear, I'm talking about shaking and vibration in the mirror when using it as a plain mirror. I haven't yet fitted the rear camera but wanted to eliminate this issue before proceeding.

The solution - for me - was damping and stiffening between the mirror and backing plate.
1. I added a 1.5mm silicon gasket cut to fit between the backing plate and the back of the mirror so the gasket dampens vibrations instead of transmitting them from the mounting arm to the mirror. The silicone sheet came from a cheap lid gripper I got at a kitchen store. A old silicon baking mat or similar would suffice. The silicon isolates the buzz and the power button has stopped rattling

2. There is a cavity between the backing plate and the mirror when the two items are assembled. In effect the mirror only contacts the backing plate at the four corners/screw locations. You can flex the arm and mirror when they're assembled and see a lot of movement because the plate is too flexible. I fixed this by filling the cavity with a bed of silicon filler/adhesive (Silastic, Sikaflex, etc). I used just enough to fill the cavity and create more contact area between the mirror and the backing plate.
I added the silicon in small blobs to the backing plate and levelled it with a spatula dipped in soapy water, then covered the silicon with some cling film sprayed with soapy water on the silicon side. I then assembled the mirror, silicon gasket and backing plate. When it was dry I removed the cling film. The cling film step was necessary so I didn't unintentionally glue the mirror and backing plate together

That sounds like a lot of work. It really wasn't. I'm happy with my results.

Good work on the mods. The 67 designs mount has some VHB between the bracket and mirror which added more rigidity to the system. Hopefully without stressing the ridiculously small screws wolfbox uses.

My button was vibrating at cold start and some rougher streets or RPMs at stop lights. I used tape initially but didn't like the look. Same thing happened on the replacement they sent me so I dabbed some liquid tape on it and peeled off the excess a few days later. Left enough in the crack to steady the button and look clean enough.

 

[nickelnoff]

Just a follow up- it’s been 3 days at the Scotch tape seems to have done the trick for me. Including pic of the tape I used in case anyone finds it helpful

Had a tough time sourcing the Scotch Mount Extreme tape.
The following looks a viable alternative.
VHB stands for Very High Bond
Will report back on performance.

 

[rovie]

Had a tough time sourcing the Scotch Mount Extreme tape.
The following looks a viable alternative.
VHB stands for Very High Bond
Will report back on performance.View attachment 7861334

I can recommend this tape.

 

[parb]

I used scotch mount extreme for the wolfbox rear camera mount. Works really, really well! I found a roll on Amazon. If you need me to mail you a roll let me know. It can't cost very much to send a letter to Switzerland with some tape..?

 

[Grey Wolf]

I have a RHD petrol, I also have used the AliExpress sourced bracket 11 with my Wolfbox 900. The bracket fits onto the screen easily if you use a little grease on the clip surfaces. I also added some double sided foam tape where the square mount screws onto the larger backing plate. It seems to all work fine and is a very clean install . I was a little concerned that it may effect the sun visors but they clear the mirror easily.
I have been using the Wolfbox mirror for about 5 months now and so far no issues but Wolfbox could benefit from supplying a better backing as it's a bit thin.
If I did it all again I would probably buy the slightly smaller mirror as I suspect it's a little lighter and puts less stress on the backing plate.

 

[flynnsk]

FYI: for the American type, Amazn has the Wolfbox 930 on sale for next 5 hours for $100 USD./ Trying to decide between this and the 840S (12") for Blindspot.

 

[AngusMacG]

FYI: for the American type, Amazn has the Wolfbox 930 on sale for next 5 hours for $100 USD./ Trying to decide between this and the 840S (12") for Blindspot.
View attachment 7861963

Listed at $119.99now but there is a $20 coupon you can add...

 

[flynnsk]

Pulled the trigger and got the upgraded rear camera with the extra long (33') for the rear. Plan on fishing/routing the camera for as low as possible without collecting %@# or being in the way.
Still waiting on the SUMA Side view mirrors.

 

[GN4HIR]

I've read a lot of threads/posts about trying to get this to work with the factory mirror stalk. There were one or two mentions of mounting it behind the steering wheel or just above the infotainment display. Did anyone go that route?

 

[Lars]

I've read a lot of threads/posts about trying to get this to work with the factory mirror stalk. There were one or two mentions of mounting it behind the steering wheel or just above the infotainment display. Did anyone go that route?

I used the factory ball and it works perfectly. I used the parts from Amazon mention in Anes' post, or you could use the 67 Design mount. Either way my unsolicited advice is to go with the factory mount after removing the mirror. It works and is a very clean modification.

 

[Texas Grenadier]

67 designs mount for the G900. Used but in like new condition.

 

[grenadierguy]

67 designs mount for the G900. Used but in like new condition.

Why are you getting rid of it?