What did you do with your Grenadier today?

[anand]

The second battery reading on the smart shunt goes to the positive on the "starting" battery, not the negative. It only monitors voltage, not current.

Also, the way it is wired, the smart shunt is only monitoring charge from the D250SE; as it looks like there is another ground wire going from the battery to the chassis

 

[Loc Nar]

The second battery reading on the smart shunt goes to the positive on the "starting" battery, not the negative. It only monitors voltage, not current.

Also, the way it is wired, the smart shunt is only monitoring charge from the D250SE; as it looks like there is another ground wire going from the battery to the chassis

According to Victron's instructions that I received, you need both positive and negative:

 

[anand]

According to Victron's instructions that I received, you need both positive and negative:

View attachment 7873005

Any chassis ground will work fine for that, it only has to go to the battery itself if monitoring current (which it can't for the "starter" battery)

Both of my batteries are linked together through the chassis and no issues there (also the same setup in our Sprinter and previous Tundra)

 

[Loc Nar]

Any chassis ground will work fine for that, it only has to go to the battery itself if monitoring current (which it can't for the "starter" battery)

Both of my batteries are linked together through the chassis and no issues there (also the same setup in our Sprinter and previous Tundra)

Thanks for the feedback and guidance! Let's further discuss the D250SE connection. The Victron manual says that after connecting the negative battery terminal of the monitored battery to the SmartShunt Battery Minus terminal, you should connect the "negative DC electrical system terminal to the SmartShunt SYSTEM MINUS terminal." See manual page below. If the D250SE negative output (that would normally be routed to the negative post of the auxiliary battery) is not the "negative DC electrical system terminal" then what is?

 

[anand]

Thanks for the feedback and guidance! Let's further discuss the D250SE connection. The Victron manual says that after connecting the negative battery terminal of the monitored battery to the SmartShunt Battery Minus terminal, you should connect the "negative DC electrical system terminal to the SmartShunt SYSTEM MINUS terminal." See manual page below. If the D250SE negative output (that would normally be routed to the negative post of the auxiliary battery) is not the "negative DC electrical system terminal" then what is?

View attachment 7873007

So, if the only load (electric device/connection) you have on the aux battery is the D250SE, then your arrangement is fine.

However, if there are any other ins/outs on the aux battery, the smart shunt won't see them.

Theoretically, it should go: Battery Minus terminal on battery -> "BATTERY MINUS" on SmartShunt; then "SYSTEM MINUS" on the SmartShunt should go to either a bus bar, or a chassis ground; and all your other devices are then either grounded to the bus bar/chassis.

If there is still another negative cable between the negative terminal of the battery and the chassis (which I'm 98% sure is how Ineos wires it), any electrical current that runs through that route will not be calculated by the SmartShunt.

Since battery current flows positive to negative, you want the SmartShunt to be the last step of any current before it gets to the negative post on the battery. It is acceptable to have multiple cables on the "SYSTEM MINUS" terminal if that makes life easier (for instance, in lieu of a bus bar, have 2 cables on the SYSTEM MINUS, one to the DC250SE and one to chassis ground)

 

[Loc Nar]

Great stuff! Thanks. I have homework and am looking forward to it. And you should be writing Victron's installation guides!

And reading the more detailed installation manual confirmed @anand's helpful advice:

3.4. Basic electrical connections Connection procedure:

1. Connect the negative battery terminal to the M10 bolt on the "BATTERY MINUS" side of the shunt. Tighten the shunt bolt with a maximum torque of 21Nm. Note that there should be no other connections on this side of the shunt or on the negative battery terminal. Any loads or chargers connected here will be excluded from the battery state of charge calculation.

2. Connect the negative of the electrical system to the M10 bolt on the "LOAD MINUS" side of the shunt. Tighten the shunt bolt with a maximum torque of 21Nm. Make sure that the negative of all DC loads, inverters, battery chargers, solar chargers and other charge sources are connected “after” the shunt.

3. Connect the M10 eye terminal of the red cable with the fuse to the positive terminal of the battery. The battery monitor is now powered up.

 

[Nadir5]

Today I got my compressor installed. A tjm pro with the catuned bracket.
You can barely see it on the right side in the photo.
I also updated my old psi meter for this digital inflator/deflator from morrflate. Both works perfect!

Pro tip. 20ft hoses are the right length for this vehicle.
View attachment 7872557

I tried installing my TJM kit today. The bracket is straightforward enough (and yes it’s tight, but you don’t need to lift the vehicle to pull the fender liner, if you still have stock tires). The supplied wiring loom, on the other hand, is a hot mess - way too much wire for the application in a Grenadier, and no Grenadier-specific instructions on wire routing (the CA Tuned YouTube video is not helpful in this area). Going to try again another day, likely cutting a lot of wires and crimping on new connections to shorten it all up.

 

[WJG-GMT II]

I've been testing the wading ability of Izzi the INEOS in the treacherous waters of Derbyshire's Bonsall Brook, just downstream of the mighty Falls of Clatterway.....

Well it beats working on the garden which is what I'm supposed to be doing

View attachment 7808016View attachment 7808017

You made the right choice

 

[Steve A]

I got my steps installed

 

[parb]

I got the tjm pro installed last Tuesday with the catuned bracket.
I used it a lot in Moab. I paired it with a morrflate air hub and I filled two tires at once. You need 20ft hoses for a comfortable setup.

The setup performed super well in Moab, bot inflating and deflating my tires.
One of the best investments I've made. I really like that setup.
I had warner ineos install it as I was short on time going to Moab.

 

[Tom D]

I washed mine today in preparation for reapplying lanoguard and an oil service.

 

[rovie]

I washed mine today in preparation for reapplying lanoguard and an oil service.

I always wash my vehicles before I take them to the garage too. I think it's outrageous when people just park their mud-covered vehicles and expect the workshop staff to scrape off the dirt before they get to the bolts.

 

[Tom D]

I always wash my vehicles before I take them to the garage too. I think it's outrageous when people just park their mud-covered vehicles and expect the workshop staff to scrape off the dirt before they get to the bolts.

Well I’m doing it myself so definitely going to clean it!

 

[YIPPE]

View attachment 7872512

Do these auto pair on rotations once on the car? Also how many $$/€€/££ for a sensor and a new steel wheel?

 

[anand]

Do these auto pair on rotations once on the car? Also how many $$/€€/££ for a sensor and a new steel wheel?

They don't auto pair, but if you purchase the programmer you can reprogram the sensor instead of having to reprogram the vehicle.

In the US the sensors sell for around $30USD/ea

 

[angstorms]

Fun day up in the San Juans

 

[Dok]

Do these auto pair on rotations once on the car? Also how many $$/€€/££ for a sensor and a new steel wheel?

They don't auto pair.
You copy / clone existing sensors so the car doesn't make any difference when you switch tires

Sensor
Unit price is around € 28
https://autel-france.com/fr/autel/269-valve-aluminium-tpms-universelle-programmable-433-315-mhz.html

Device
Around € 300
My dealer offer me to do it so I don't have to buy the device

Steel wheel
€ 300 if I ask the dealer
I did pay the € 100 but now a little more:
https://www.pneustore.fr/jante_info.php?products_id=229276

 

[Tom D]

2nd oil service done today, Lanoguard reapplied. I was impressed with the performance of the Lanoguard. That was the first time I had seen the car up on a hoist since I did it last year, it had rubbed off in a few low slung places that occasionally rub the ground / vegetation like the front bash plate and the bottoms and bolts of the lower control arms but it was still impressive. There is no rust on any of the bolt heads or threads. The bolts for the side steps which were added after Lanoguarding have rusted, so it definitely makes a difference. They have now been done too of course.

 

[ECrider]

2nd oil service done today, Lanoguard reapplied. I was impressed with the performance of the Lanoguard. That was the first time I had seen the car up on a hoist since I did it last year, it had rubbed off in a few low slung places that occasionally rub the ground / vegetation like the front bash plate and the bottoms and bolts of the lower control arms but it was still impressive. There is no rust on any of the bolt heads or threads. The bolts for the side steps which were added after Lanoguarding have rusted, so it definitely makes a difference. They have now been done too of course.

what mileage are you up to Tom D?

 

[Deleted member 9052558]

2nd oil service done today, Lanoguard reapplied. I was impressed with the performance of the Lanoguard. That was the first time I had seen the car up on a hoist since I did it last year, it had rubbed off in a few low slung places that occasionally rub the ground / vegetation like the front bash plate and the bottoms and bolts of the lower control arms but it was still impressive. There is no rust on any of the bolt heads or threads. The bolts for the side steps which were added after Lanoguarding have rusted, so it definitely makes a difference. They have now been done too of course.

I’m in the US and never heard of “Lanoguard”. I had to google it and found more info on it. Going to see if any local places to similar things. I have PPF & ceramic coating done on all my newer vehicles, but have never had the undercarriage sprayed or however applied. See, learnt me something new today from this awesome forum!!