The ethanol free I'm using is 90. And on road trips I've been using octane boost and see good increases in MPG, cause I'm usually trying to minimize stopping to every 3-3.5 hours.
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The ethanol free I'm using is 90. And on road trips I've been using octane boost and see good increases in MPG, cause I'm usually trying to minimize stopping to every 3-3.5 hours.
Wow I only have the Buckees 87 octane ethanol free. But doesn't mess with the oil really. What kind of mpg are you at now? But to answer your question you can use any LL01 and LL04 oil. LL04 is actually a little better of a spec. It's low SAPS and better for direct injected motors. It wasn't specced for gas due to US regulations. EPA wanted lower ZDDP numbers so it was limited with gas motors but diesel were exempt. It's why in Europe they run LL04 but in the US they did LL01. Also had to do with sulfur levels but now the US fuels are perfectly fine to run LL04 oil. So I've been doing QS Euro 5w40 which definitely runs smoother than the 0w20. Pennzoil Platinum Euro is a 5w30 that's LL04. Hard to argue with the QS price. I change every 5k miles and filter every 10. I plan on keeping my guy forever and I'm also running a tune. I'll probably retire with this guy in 20yrs lol.
You’re changing 100 bucks in oil on a 1/2 lifecycle, but you’re saving the soaked 10 dollar filter, that presumably is doing its job to clean the oil you want to get rid of.
The manual says 12k intervals and BMW use to say 16k but backed it down to 12k. A filter simply filters. The oil is what's doing the job of lubricating and fighting off elements. Longer drain intervals are kind of the opposite direction things are going with newer engines. They're starting to run lighter oil and tighter tolerances so pretty much everyone says if you want it to last you take your factory recommendation and cut it in half. My personal reasons for doing 5k miles is because it's an easy number to remember. When I'm about to hit 20k I know it's time to change. I could take it to 7.5k but don't really want to. I also drive it hard, run a tune, and have larger/heavier tires. I've done a VOA (virgin oil analysis) on my oil I've been using (Quaker State Euro) and have done multiple UOA to track the oil. It's a great oil and $22.50 at walmart for 5L. After taking the oil filters apart there was no reason to replace them at 5k. Even at 10k it was perfectly fine. The people that have seen the filters "deteriorate" is because they pull it off incorrectly so rip it up as they twist it off. They don't fail while in their housing.
I don't care about any of that. It's a diatribe about nothing to do with the logic I'm questioning.
Read the initial post here but the only reason LL17FE exists is because of US CAFE laws and not because it's what's best. BMW released a white paper study and showed they gained a 3% increase in mpg by going to the lighter oil. They didn't show it protected anything better. Their goal is to get you to end of warranty. I do oil analysis on my changes to see what's trending and how things are going.1) Why would you use Quaker State Euro in your Grenadier? It does not meet the specs for the Grenadier (per manual 0-20W, ACEA C2, BMW LL 17FE) and doing so may not cause your engine to blow up but it could jeopardize your warranty.
2) How do you know your oil filter is ok. A properly functioning filter will remove particles too small for the human eye to see. Do you do oil analysis in every change? (BTW, I think your 5k interval is a good investment.)
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I answered this directly. The factory oil and filter change recommendation is 12k miles. The filter only filters. The oil can break down due to moisture, heat, etc. The filter isn't clogged and doesn't need the changing. The oil's HTHS however starts to lower and it starts to lose it's effectiveness after 5k miles. Recommended change interval based on UOA is 7.5k but I'd rather just do it at 5k miles to keep it simple on me. It's very common when doing shorter oil change intervals to do the filter every other change. The logic being it's still completely effective even at the 10k interval so no reason to change it at 5k miles. The oil however is degrading. There's also the point that I don't want to F'k with it. It's difficult to get to and I don't want to remove the plastic housing anymore than I have to. It's a poor design and prone to failure.
OK… so you are not running it in a Grenadier and that warranty would not be applicable. Is that correct?
I am running LL01 oil in the Grenadier. Not the 0w20.
Then why doesn't Ineos spec different oil for the Grenadier outside the US?
I don't know why Ineos doesn't. I doubt they have any testing or anything they simply buy the engine from BMW with it's own warranties and restrictions attached. But because of these lighter oils most shops are starting to roll back their interval recommendations. I see it as preventative maintenance. The 0w20's sheer resistance is pretty low and over time will start to gum up. I can't imagine doing 12k intervals on that engine with 6000lbs behind it. The additive packages are so light that it simply can't be as robust. The NOAK of a 20 grade vs a 30/40 grade alone means there's going to be burn-off and a change in it's chemistry. Even Redline 0w20 is like 9% burn off where the 5w30 is 5%. Based on UOA's most oils are great until 6k, pretty good at 7.5k, then start to fall off from there. There's acceptable wear limits and even oil burn limits. From BMW: "For BMW spark-ignition and diesel engines, the maximum permissible engine oil consumption is 0.7 l/1000 km". That's 1 quart per 842.254 miles. The 0w20 oils, industry wide, have made seals and consumptions a real issue. I ran the 0w20 to start and did my UOAs with it then went to Pennzoil Euro L (ll04) and QS Euro and it's been super happy. Much smoother. Weights are an American thing. HTHS is what matters and the B58 was designed with a HTHS range of 3.5-4.1. 0w20 is generally anywhere from 2.4-3.1 (I think, old memory) and there's no way that holds up for 12k miles like it should. Will it go 60k miles, sure. Will it go 500k miles, highly doubtful. I'm not worried about making it to the end of warranty. That's two years from now. It's making it for the next 20+yrs that I'm gunning for. Plus I run larger heavier tires and an engine tune. Just my personal preference. When this thread first started no one had any idea where to even get oil and there was very little info coming from anywhere. Things have had time to mature since. I think the 0w20 is fine for most people doing daily hops around town. It gets to operating temp quicker so initially offers better protection. I routinely am 100+ deg and drive it like I stole it (the tune really makes it that much more fun) so I've opted to stick with the higher HTHS oils. Going out to Moab or West Texas where it's 105+ and off roading where it's high rpm, high load. To me that's insanity on 0w20. I'd like to see a UOA of a 12k interval of someone in hard temps that's off roading or towing a lot.
This part isn't entirely correct. While the hardware is BMW, the DME tuning is completely bespoke, from what I was told it was performed directly through Bosch as the DME mapping doesn't mimic BMW's at all (this part has been confirmed by a US tuner who is attempting to decrypt/unlock the DME for tuning for some big power). Additionally, Ineos does have specific mileage expectations (without notable repairs/failures) for the entire drivetrain that is substantially longer than the warranty period. It was in an internal document, so I'm not comfortable stating the number specifically, but it was well beyond 100,000 miles; and well in excess of BMW's own lifecycle goal.
Could be. I was just making an educated wish on his Q. I knew it was remapped with their specifics for lower power (higher reliability) and keeping the torque but they still have to be within BMW's operating specs unless they want to toss all the guarantees out the window.
I watched a few of these videos and a few others in regard to UOA to compare to some of our work practices. I tend to agree with some of their statements but they may of left some info out unintentionally. Some videos have mentioned most people around town would be operating their cars in the severe duty cycle oil change intervals and should reduce oil change intervals. The severe duty is mostly short trips, high idle time and stop start not allowing an engine to maintain a stable operating temperature long enough to evaporate condensation and excess fuel in the oil. This can contribute to sludge build up over time and multiple services.
