Towing Electrics & Towing Socket Wiring

[Bobineos]

Hi anyone got an easy answer to adding the missing pins in the socket or just changing the socket. I need the extra pins as I have a caravan with fridge. Any tips on running some more wires down to the socket. Apologies If this has already been posted !

 

[Eric]

Hi anyone got an easy answer to adding the missing pins in the socket or just changing the socket. I need the extra pins as I have a caravan with fridge. Any tips on running some more wires down to the socket. Apologies If this has already been posted !

Have a word with your dealer and ask where are Ineos upto with the remedial work required. I was under the impression that there was an fix in the offing.

 

[Bobineos]

Have a word with your dealer and ask where are Ineos upto with the remedial work required. I was under the impression that there was an fix in the offing.

Hi Eric
Thanks for the reply, no joy from my dealer. Real shame because I thought they were on the ball.
I have tried my local auto electrician / tow bar fitter I have used in the past and he is not willing to attempt the work.
I even called Buzz and again they don't really want to do the work guess as it is not just a kit they can plug in, after a conversation they did offer to have a go and just charge the labour rates plus parts. They have been my best offer so far.
I have even phoned and E-Mailed Ineos and the reply was they are looking into it. Not holding my breath on that one.
All I need to do is get a couple of wires from under the back seat to the 13/10 pin socket just so I can fit a new 13 pin socket. I was just hoping someone had done similar and new an easy route / option with out tearing all the trim out the back of the car.

 

[Clark Kent]

Hi Eric
Thanks for the reply, no joy from my dealer. Real shame because I thought they were on the ball.
I have tried my local auto electrician / tow bar fitter I have used in the past and he is not willing to attempt the work.
I even called Buzz and again they don't really want to do the work guess as it is not just a kit they can plug in, after a conversation they did offer to have a go and just charge the labour rates plus parts. They have been my best offer so far.
I have even phoned and E-Mailed Ineos and the reply was they are looking into it. Not holding my breath on that one.
All I need to do is get a couple of wires from under the back seat to the 13/10 pin socket just so I can fit a new 13 pin socket. I was just hoping someone had done similar and new an easy route / option with out tearing all the trim out the back of the car.

I posted info on obtaining the missing pins here.
There is no easy route into the 13 pin socket because the trailer harness is well sealed, as you would want with 800mm wading. I ran an extra wire in for an electric brake controller. Fiddly but quite do-able.

 

[Eric]

I posted info on obtaining the missing pins here.
There is no easy route into the 13 pin socket because the trailer harness is well sealed, as you would want with 800mm wading. I ran an extra wire in for an electric brake controller. Fiddly but quite do-able.

I can see why a third party company doesn't want to get involved with this work, especially when a vehicle is still under warranty, but Ineos really need to sort this asap and come clean how close they are to a solution being available instead of "they are aware of the issue", they are "working on it". This is a fundamental design flaw and a complete lack of understanding of different countries marketing requirement and vehicle usage. There is an European and UK standard for 7 pin and 13 pin wiring layouts (no doubt Aus and US ones as well) why did they see fit to deviate from these international standards?

 

[Bobineos]

I posted info on obtaining the missing pins here.
There is no easy route into the 13 pin socket because the trailer harness is well sealed, as you would want with 800mm wading. I ran an extra wire in for an electric brake controller. Fiddly but quite do-able.

I read you post about obtaining the missing pins, all good stuff. very interested in the route you run your extra wires. Any photos. Any help greatly received.

 

[Clark Kent]

I read you post about obtaining the missing pins, all good stuff. very interested in the route you run your extra wires. Any photos. Any help greatly received.

Apologies @Bobineos, I missed this.

For my specific configuration I needed to get a single 2.5mm wire from my electric brake controller (mounted under the steering column) to my camper trailer plug to operate the electric brakes (service brakes). The 13 pin Euro standard is supposed to follow ISO 11446 but Ineos generously didn't bother with either the pin count or the colour code.

I ran a wire into some glue lined heat shrink then some abrasion resistant nylon sleeving. I fed that through a hole I made in the exit grommet in the right rear inner guard. I followed and tied off to the existing trailer harness and entered the waterproof gland on the back of the 13 pin Euro socket. To get access to the trailer harness I had to remove the right rear wheel flare, the plastic inner guard, the rear protection plate and lower the rear edge of the muffler heat shield. I also needed to disassemble the 13 pin Euro socket to get access to the pins.

Because I didn't have any spare pins at the time I cut and removed pin 8 (reverse) as a donor pin and inserted it in vacant position 12 (service brake) I terminated the added wire to this pin. My camper does not have reversing lights. I now have a spare pin so will reinstate pin 8 at some point.

My camper uses an Australian standard 7 pin flat plug. The 7 pin standard uses pin 5 for the service brakes. I used a 13 pin Euro to 7 pin adapter and made sure I had a service brake signal at pin 5 at the 7 pin end. All this to create a circuit to pin 12 that should be present from manufacture.

 

[Bobineos]

Apologies @Bobineos, I missed this.

For my specific configuration I needed to get a single 2.5mm wire from my electric brake controller (mounted under the steering column) to my camper trailer plug to operate the electric brakes (service brakes). The 13 pin Euro standard is supposed to follow ISO 11446 but Ineos generously didn't bother with either the pin count or the colour code.

I ran a wire into some glue lined heat shrink then some abrasion resistant nylon sleeving. I fed that through a hole I made in the exit grommet in the right rear inner guard. I followed and tied off to the existing trailer harness and entered the waterproof gland on the back of the 13 pin Euro socket. To get access to the trailer harness I had to remove the right rear wheel flare, the plastic inner guard, the rear protection plate and lower the rear edge of the muffler heat shield. I also needed to disassemble the 13 pin Euro socket to get access to the pins.

Because I didn't have any spare pins at the time I cut and removed pin 8 (reverse) as a donor pin and inserted it in vacant position 12 (service brake) I terminated the added wire to this pin. My camper does not have reversing lights. I now have a spare pin so will reinstate pin 8 at some point.

My camper uses an Australian standard 7 pin flat plug. The 7 pin standard uses pin 5 for the service brakes. I used a 13 pin Euro to 7 pin adapter and made sure I had a service brake signal at pin 5 at the 7 pin end. All this to create a circuit to pin 12 that should be present from manufacture.

Hi Thanks for taking the time to reply, wow, was hoping it would be a bit easier than what you had to go through.
My plan at the moment is to go from the battery ( I only have the one ) using what we would call a fridge relay, so the wire is only live when the engine is running. Then find a route to the 10/13 pin plug. Replace the original socket with a 13 pin one as they are reasonably priced over here (less than £10), If any one else has done similar please let me know.
Thanks again for taking the time to reply, Cheers B

 

[MattG]

A question for those more knowledgeable on trailer wiring and CANBUS issues than I am. I have changed the 13 pin round on our Grenadier to a 7 pin flat trailer connector and wired up a REDARC TowPro Elite electric brake controller. I towed our camper trailer for the first time today and for the first part of the 30km journey home, we were good as gold. The trailer lights all worked as they should and the electric brakes performed as expected. However, the car then started intermittently throwing a red “Trailer light Error” message when we were nearly home. As our camper trailer has LED lights everywhere, it is most likely that the CANBUS is intermittently detecting a voltage or current that it doesn’t like. I’ve read that you can deceive the CANBUS (by inserting a resistor or diode into the trailer light circuit) to prevent the error message. I have no idea how to do this. Of interest, I did wire up the reverse light to the trailer plug on the car (as we may be upgrading our camper trailer to a larger hybrid van, that has a reverse light). I’m wondering if I should disconnect the reverse light from the plug on the car (until we upgrade) just in case that might be creating problems. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

[Eric]

A question for those more knowledgeable on trailer wiring and CANBUS issues than I am. I have changed the 13 pin round on our Grenadier to a 7 pin flat trailer connector and wired up a REDARC TowPro Elite electric brake controller. I towed our camper trailer for the first time today and for the first part of the 30km journey home, we were good as gold. The trailer lights all worked as they should and the electric brakes performed as expected. However, the car then started intermittently throwing a red “Trailer light Error” message when we were nearly home. As our camper trailer has LED lights everywhere, it is most likely that the CANBUS is intermittently detecting a voltage or current that it doesn’t like. I’ve read that you can deceive the CANBUS (by inserting a resistor or diode into the trailer light circuit) to prevent the error message. I have no idea how to do this. Of interest, I did wire up the reverse light to the trailer plug on the car (as we may be upgrading our camper trailer to a larger hybrid van, that has a reverse light). I’m wondering if I should disconnect the reverse light from the plug on the car (until we upgrade) just in case that might be creating problems. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

I don't know how the Aus 7 flat pins are wired BUT when towing with the UK spec 13 pin plug and a 13 -> 7 pin adaptor is inserted to tow a small trailer without reversing lights, when reverse is engage you get the "Trailer light Error" message as the canbus looks for the reversing lights.

 

[MattG]

I don't know how the Aus 7 flat pins are wired BUT when towing with the UK spec 13 pin plug and a 13 -> 7 pin adaptor is inserted to tow a small trailer without reversing lights, when reverse is engage you get the "Trailer light Error" message as the canbus looks for the reversing lights.

Cheers, except the error messages occurred during normal driving (having been fine for about the first 20 minutes of the journey home), well before I reversed the trailer into our driveway. Curious...

 

[Drifter]

13 pin to 7 pin flat plug/ Anderson plugs
When collecting the vehicle the other day, the agent advised that Ineos Australia are proposing to offer a conversion from the 13 pin to 7 pin flat plug common in Australia. Another option will be a heavy duty Anderson-type connector along side the 7-pin connector for caravan and trailer connection....
He also mentioned that DIY (infotainment) software upgrades were under active consideration to reduce the need for multiple vehicles requiring constant visits to smaller dealerships for minor fixes. I'm supposing this might be accomplished via the data USB sockets located in the cubby.
Whatever, they're both welcome developments.

Just collected my Grenadier from our Perth (Western Aust) with the tow pack installed. Surprised to find a Redarc electric brake controller installed but still only the 13 pin Euro Plug + Nato plug. I have obtained a 13 pin to 7 pin flat adapter but still have no idea where power up the Anderson plug from. There seems to be very little info on the electrics of this vehicle.

 

[MattG]

Just collected my Grenadier from our Perth (Western Aust) with the tow pack installed. Surprised to find a Redarc electric brake controller installed but still only the 13 pin Euro Plug + Nato plug. I have obtained a 13 pin to 7 pin flat adapter but still have no idea where power up the Anderson plug from. There seems to be very little info on the electrics of this vehicle.

I completely removed the NATO plug including the wiring loom all the way back to the relay box in the rear cargo space cubby hole on the driver’s side. I then ran my own cable, directly from the unused 60Amp modular fuse in the main fuse block to where the NATO plug was located. I ran this cable behind the passenger side cargo area trim panel and through the large grommet in the wheel arch down to where the NATO plug used to sit. I made a double bracket to mount the Anderson plug and a solar input plug (Also Anderson, but in a blue color). This solar cable runs along the same path as the Anderson trailer electrics cable as described, but terminates on the CTEK DCDC Charger. I can provide photos if you like.

 

[Keepleft]

Pity, we can't harmonise the plugs globally for uniformity and ease of use
.
Some markets (countries) need to mandate all vehicle lighting functions held at UNECE to aid in such quest, example - the rear fog (Pin 2 NATO = PIN 11 on the AS 12-Pin) etc.
US SAE J1319 needs to be incorporated into FMVSS-108 to in effect -mandate the function, and similarly, ADR-13 needs reworking to enable a mandatory adoption of ADR 52 intended as mandatory by UNECE@UNECE 38.

Add other big players, India, South Africa etc and so on, all with localised differences/specifications AND resultant owner issues; and this, is just one small but key functioning item)

 

[Craig]

I completely removed the NATO plug including the wiring loom all the way back to the relay box in the rear cargo space cubby hole on the driver’s side. I then ran my own cable, directly from the unused 60Amp modular fuse in the main fuse block to where the NATO plug was located. I ran this cable behind the passenger side cargo area trim panel and through the large grommet in the wheel arch down to where the NATO plug used to sit. I made a double bracket to mount the Anderson plug and a solar input plug (Also Anderson, but in a blue color). This solar cable runs along the same path as the Anderson trailer electrics cable as described, but terminates on the CTEK DCDC Charger. I can provide photos if you like.

 

[Craig]

I would love pics please as I am planning to do the same thing.

 

[MattG]

I would love pics please as I am planning to do the same thing.

Here’s some photos of the brackets I made for the Anderson plugs and my 7-pin flat trailer electrics plug. Routing the cables was as described in my post from April.
The photos of the brackets and plugs in place were taken with the rear bash plate off the car. The plugs don’t stick out at all with the bash plate bolted in place. Cheers, Matt

 

[Craig]

Thanks Matt
Brackets are flash like Michael Jackson! Good work.
Do you have any pics of the wiring side in the Ineos?

 

[MattG]

Thanks Matt
Brackets are flash like Michael Jackson! Good work.
Do you have any pics of the wiring side in the Ineos?

I’ll have a look and see if I took any other photos at the time. I did make a small bracket to mount a 50A MIDI fuse holder for the solar input that I put under the rear passenger seat.