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@Jean Mercier somewhere in your App of the Monitor is a possibility to export the data to .csv file. The app will not do automatically .I only see this post and your interesting conclusion now.
Does it mean that @Lollo050968 or somebody else did provide you the raw data of a China monitor?
I already searched several times if I could find the data on my cell phone to no avail, and I am sure it is somewhere there (and not only on a server in China), because I can even generate the graphs in airplane mode.
What was the name of the file?
Curious, surely it wouldn't cause a power drain if there is nothing plugged into the outlets, or are you suggesting it energises something else??Just to add a thought - be aware that the over head "PWR" switch if left on can cause a draw even when parked up and engine off - obviously it is used to switch power to the outlets but don't forget to turn it off when not needed. It will draw down the battery especially if you have stuff plugged in!
Perhaps I don't have the same app, because I don't find it. My app is called "Battery Monitor" and has red V as a symbol (almost the Grenadier logo upside down) in a red dashed circle.@Jean Mercier somewhere in your App of the Monitor is a possibility to export the data to .csv file. The app will not do automatically .
yes I provide in September a file to @emax . In the meantime I have investigate with the china tool and the Ineos SOC value, that something uses a lot of power, when the car is locked and not used for a few days. Hopefully it’s solved with the SW Update
Car running ok.
Engine warning light on though and cruise control stopped working.
Ideas?
I’ve just had the same thing for a couple of weeks (orange engine light and no cruise) - seemed to be operating fine otherwise - I don’t know if it was just coincidence or what I did was the way to stop it, but I was off road and decided to test out the centre diff lock. I drove for a while and then disengaged the centre diff lock. When I did that, the engine light went out and cruise worked againCar running ok.
Engine warning light on though and cruise control stopped working.
Ideas?
Thanks for this, as it happens it probably appeared after I did engage the centre diff lock.I’ve just had the same thing for a couple of weeks (orange engine light and no cruise) - seemed to be operating fine otherwise - I don’t know if it was just coincidence or what I did was the way to stop it, but I was off road and decided to test out the centre diff lock. I drove for a while and then disengaged the centre diff lock. When I did that, the engine light went out and cruise worked again![]()
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Ours reported 100% charge for the first time today, after several long days of driving (previous max 94%). Peculiar.2 weeks away - battery went from 85>83%
I've put in on the charger and after a couple of hours it's says FUL.
Ineos screen gauge says 90%
Suggests a calibration issue.
Just wondering did you also install the VICTRON 200 amp SHUNT (for monitoring Auxiliary Battery via Phone app that CTEK doesn't, its app is pathetic at best ), or does the Victron 15 amp charger have Bluetooth? VICTRON includes Solar Panel input.I haven't driven the vehicle for a weekso I checked the voltage between the charging post and the closest earth: 12.5V or ~70%
I connected a new Victron 15Amp smart charger ...took about 1 hr 50 mins to register the "green light" float status. I let it settle then checked the voltage again after 10 mins with two different multimeters. One registered 12.59V, the other 12.60V. ...say about 80%. I would have expected higher. I didn't have time to check the battery status on the main display.
No to all at present. The Victron Smart Charger (Blue Smart IP65) is a mains operated multi-stage charger which caters for LiFeP04, sealed lead acid, AGM etc. I have left the IG system alone.Just wondering did you also install the VICTRON 200 amp SHUNT (for monitoring Auxiliary Battery via Phone app that CTEK doesn't, its app is pathetic at best ), or does the Victron 15 amp charger have Bluetooth? VICTRON includes Solar Panel input.
I know the VICTRON series also separates Starter from Auxiliary battery, and supports starter for backup cranking etc. same as factory CTEK 120s. For additional accessories are you intending installing a seperate FUSE box (like Air Pump, Fridge, water pump, auxiliary fuel bladder/s pump, etc,) then fitting additional outlets around vehicle such as 50amp Anderson plug/socket?
Mine is still losing 10% per day when not driving. Something is off and I might have to have batteries exchanged.Last week my car was parked for eight days. Because of the stories in the forum I checked the battery status. It was down to 7 %
I got all the old warnings again and my cockpit looked like a Christmas tree.
I charged it and drove some three hundred kilometres the next day.
The battery came up to 66 %, which appeared not high. The next day it miraculously showed 91%…
The warning went nearly all away but the emergency call system still doesn’t work.
A battery drain from full to 7% in 8 days seems very odd. Maybe that’s the reason the want to exchange something within the battery system of my car.
That is interesting, as it doesn't seem that there is any other real way to power directly off the aux battery without hooking directly to the battery post. I am wondering what would cause them to cap it off and say its not unusable. A little context for this update would be nice from the manufacturer. And if you do pop the cap off and use it, does it now void your warranty?Interesting finding after I picked up my Gren from software update and smaller checks yesterday: dealer had so seal tue consumer output of the Smartpass as it is not meant to be used according to Ineos.
View attachment 7840445
As this is exactly where I planned to connect the fridge to this summer, I wonder what the right way is to connect consumers…
On a positive note: my drive home yesterday was my first trip ever without pings and pings and all those error messages.
Search. There are multiple threads regarding this matter. I’m on my phone ATM and it’s easier to search on a comp.That is interesting, as it doesn't seem that there is any other real way to power directly off the aux battery without hooking directly to the battery post. I am wondering what would cause them to cap it off and say its not unusable. A little context for this update would be nice from the manufacturer. And if you do pop the cap off and use it, does it now void your warranty?