Step one ~ rule out the driver...
So that's absolutely not fair.
The steering is going to have a different 'feel' to the more normal rack and pinion.
The set up requires a little more input from the driver to generate 'turn' (i've read) and the turning circle is 'lazy'.
The steering should be very tight/precise, there is very little slop in the system, by design.
The steering won't feel too heavy as the hydraulic assist will hold the steering arm offering the inverse amount of force to turn the steering wheel.
Its a complex geometry but when you rotate the steering wheel an arm (the pitman arm or drag link) pulls and pushes 'tie rods' that connect to the steering arm on each wheel.
The wheels themseves are 'hung' between and upper and a lower control arm and turn around that pivot.
The bottom pivot can be moved away or towards the car which sets the camber.
It can all go wrong in several places.
Everything has a set distance and all of the control arms will be ajusted to a pre-determined length, then the whole lot is bolted together at the factory.
I imagine (I don't know) that the last component to be added is the steering wheel.
There is a tolerance to everything.
Having a steering wheel 'exactly' parallel/straight I imagine is a bit of a trick +/- 2 degrees I would think is achievable.
It's possible that there is a slight difference in the lengths of the control arms. if one is just a millimeter out I can imagine that by the time we get to the steering wheel it's induced a rotational error.
If the other side has an offset in the trackrod end then the steering wheel could be further thrown off 'level'.
There are a number of things I will do when/if I get my new Grenny-QM.
I will take the wheels off and grease everything.
I will remove the track tod ends and grease all of the adjustment points.
I will wire brush any bare steel/surface rusted part and coat them with a rust convertor (Dinitrol RC900 is my goto).
I will top up the PAS res.
I will then take my new car to a local steering specialist and have the steeing steup so its 100%.
Then I will spray it all underneath with Lanoguard and spend the next few weeks telling people I ran over a sheep "Can you still smell it ?"
The steering specialist will ensure the steering wheel is dead center and then adjust the steering .
If he cant, because the act of having the wheel level means the pitman arm is offset or an adjuster is on its limit, then it's back to Ineos to get the wheel centralised.
If would have to be a long way off to be that serious.
Do we know if the steering wheel clamps on a flat or on a spline (ie. can it be adjusted without moving the pitman arm) ?
