that's ridiculous, a can with no inner workings!I think you have the wrong end of the stick.
You've paid for the socket, and Ineos have given you some extra bits to ensure it's IP integrity.
that's ridiculous, a can with no inner workings!I think you have the wrong end of the stick.
You've paid for the socket, and Ineos have given you some extra bits to ensure it's IP integrity.
I think at least one mentioned something that sounds very similar if not identical.Was this issue commented on in any of the Scottish drive reviews?
You'd have to crimp the connectors to fit them, and if you did you'd ruin the IP rating...that's ridiculous, a can with no inner workings!
Yes, sorry. I've edited post to clarify.I think he’s talking about the transmission tunnel hump in the rear for rear seat passengers, not the RH driver’s footwell.
I would purchase some stainless fixings and replace all the offending bolts.
I think I'd whip it out, give the head a wire brushing, and replace. You could put a bit of paint in it with a touch up pen or brush; or replace with stainless.
The footrest is such a huge psychological barrier for Troby, it intrudes into every thought process Freud would have a field day. A fieldmaster day probably.I think he’s talking about the transmission tunnel hump in the rear for rear seat passengers, not the RH driver’s footwell.
Bear in mind that stainless is higher up the galvanic scale making the vehicle body become the anode and not the fixing. If you do replace with stainless, best to use some form of electrical isolation paste.I would purchase some stainless fixings and replace all the offending bolts.
Titanium is even lighter , so he can reduce the GVM a tiny tiny bit!Bear in mind that stainless is higher up the galvanic scale making the vehicle body become the anode and not the fixing. If you do replace with stainless, best to use some form of electrical isolation paste.
What was that about again?A few weeks back there was a lot of discussion about the auxiliary driving lights.
Those that are now in the driver's seat , Is this still a matter capable of inducing anxiety?
Or just another wipergate?
I dunno. The usual speculation that IA had no idea about these matters.What was that about again?
Using a kid's small paint brush or a "cotton bud", carefully dab the rusted part with rust converter. When it turns black, wash with plenty of water then dry with a microfibre cloth. Find a close "touch up" paint match and dab the area with the aforementioned paint brush. Once dry you won't be able to tell where the "repair" was...
I usually dry with a spot of methylated spirits to instantly get rid of any water.Using a kid's small paint brush or a "cotton bud", carefully dab the rusted part with rust converter. When it turns black, wash with plenty of water then dry with a microfibre cloth. Find a close "touch up" paint match and dab the area with the aforementioned paint brush. Once dry you won't be able to tell where the "repair" was...
That's me told! Interesting to know though. I have replaced fixings before and not noticed any problems, but I don't doubt your reasoning.Bear in mind that stainless is higher up the galvanic scale making the vehicle body become the anode and not the fixing. If you do replace with stainless, best to use some form of electrical isolation paste.
One of those things where 9 times out of ten, it will make no difference however, occasionally it can become an issue. Especially if combined with something far down the scale such as aluminiumThat's me told! Interesting to know though. I have replaced fixings before and not noticed any problems, but I don't doubt your reasoning.
with new vehicles I bet a lot of playing/exploring into functions is going on and as a consequence a few things may need resetting.TPMS issue solved. Measured pressure of all tyres when cold - all good. Then select "reset" and error has now cleared.