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So where are all the first impressions? (right here)

Hannes01

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I think you have the wrong end of the stick.

You've paid for the socket, and Ineos have given you some extra bits to ensure it's IP integrity.
that's ridiculous, a can with no inner workings!
 

DCPU

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Was this issue commented on in any of the Scottish drive reviews?
I think at least one mentioned something that sounds very similar if not identical.
 

Beormund

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I think he’s talking about the transmission tunnel hump in the rear for rear seat passengers, not the RH driver’s footwell.
Yes, sorry. I've edited post to clarify.
 

Tazzieman

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I think he’s talking about the transmission tunnel hump in the rear for rear seat passengers, not the RH driver’s footwell.
The footrest is such a huge psychological barrier for Troby, it intrudes into every thought process ;) Freud would have a field day. A fieldmaster day probably.
 

Tazzieman

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A few weeks back there was a lot of discussion about the auxiliary driving lights.
Those that are now in the driver's seat , Is this still a matter capable of inducing anxiety?
Or just another wipergate?
 

Cheshire cat

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I would purchase some stainless fixings and replace all the offending bolts.
Bear in mind that stainless is higher up the galvanic scale making the vehicle body become the anode and not the fixing. If you do replace with stainless, best to use some form of electrical isolation paste.
 

Tazzieman

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Bear in mind that stainless is higher up the galvanic scale making the vehicle body become the anode and not the fixing. If you do replace with stainless, best to use some form of electrical isolation paste.
Titanium is even lighter , so he can reduce the GVM a tiny tiny bit!
(And paste the threads)
 

rovie

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A few weeks back there was a lot of discussion about the auxiliary driving lights.
Those that are now in the driver's seat , Is this still a matter capable of inducing anxiety?
Or just another wipergate?
What was that about again?
 

DenisM

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Using a kid's small paint brush or a "cotton bud", carefully dab the rusted part with rust converter. When it turns black, wash with plenty of water then dry with a microfibre cloth. Find a close "touch up" paint match and dab the area with the aforementioned paint brush. Once dry you won't be able to tell where the "repair" was...
 

Tazzieman

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Using a kid's small paint brush or a "cotton bud", carefully dab the rusted part with rust converter. When it turns black, wash with plenty of water then dry with a microfibre cloth. Find a close "touch up" paint match and dab the area with the aforementioned paint brush. Once dry you won't be able to tell where the "repair" was...
I usually dry with a spot of methylated spirits to instantly get rid of any water.
 

Trialmaster

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Bear in mind that stainless is higher up the galvanic scale making the vehicle body become the anode and not the fixing. If you do replace with stainless, best to use some form of electrical isolation paste.
That's me told! Interesting to know though. I have replaced fixings before and not noticed any problems, but I don't doubt your reasoning.
 

Cheshire cat

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That's me told! Interesting to know though. I have replaced fixings before and not noticed any problems, but I don't doubt your reasoning.
One of those things where 9 times out of ten, it will make no difference however, occasionally it can become an issue. Especially if combined with something far down the scale such as aluminium
 

Eric

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TPMS issue solved. Measured pressure of all tyres when cold - all good. Then select "reset" and error has now cleared.
with new vehicles I bet a lot of playing/exploring into functions is going on and as a consequence a few things may need resetting.
 

DCPU

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So what are people's choices with stainless fasteners?

In the past, I've used Copaslip, blue Hylomar, Locktite threadlocker, and Duralac.
 

Beormund

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Just discovered a small issue. When reversing the left rear corner bumper sensor continuously beeps when nothing is nearby. Bit annoying. No other issues right now and have done 100 miles. Sensor was OK yesterday??
 
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