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Build Thread MallCrl 3.0

Asnes

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Victron is the way to go. Are you installing their 1200w blue smart inverter? Where do you plan to put it?

I was trying to figure out where I could install the 1200w version but under the seats seems to be a no go based dimensions.
 

anand

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Victron is the way to go. Are you installing their 1200w blue smart inverter? Where do you plan to put it?

I was trying to figure out where I could install the 1200w version but under the seats seems to be a no go based dimensions.
My pile of Victron includes: Phoenix 12/1200 inverter, Orion XS DC-DC charger, MPPT 75/15 solar charge controller, IP67 12/25 AC-DC charger, BMV-712, and a Cerbo-S.

If you didn't have the aux battery or sub, the Phoenix 1200VA could fit in that spot. My original plan was to mount it in the void behind the driver's side cargo panel, but I think it'll be too large, so I may mount it between my drawers and the cargo panel on the driver's side... More aluminum is arriving this weekend to construct another shelf up and over the fridge, so I'll see then
 

Asnes

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Got it. Makes sense. I’ve got 2nd batt so no room in there. You’ve confirmed that this unit will need to go somewhere external. Under passenger seat could be an option but I do like that place for storing things :)
 

Xrford

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Hi @anand I was wondering if you could give a short review of the DFG offroad fridge slide? I have the same Dometic cfx3 45 fridge as you and I am considering this slide.
  • Any squeaks or rattles?
  • Can the tilt be adjusted from zero to 45+ degrees?
  • Is there a lock out at the full open position to prevent the fridge sliding closed if you park on a decline? Probably not an issue if it does not because in the real world it is more likely that the tilt angle will be greater than the decline angle in most cases.
  • Is the tilt mechanism smooth and easy to return to a closed position?
  • Is Build quality good?
  • Do you recommend it?
  • The way you have it setup could some one 5’8” easily see and access all the contents of the fridge?

Please confirm if this is the one you purchased Here

Thanks
 
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anand

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Hi @anand I was wondering if you could give a short review of the DFG offroad fridge slide? I have the same Dometic cfx3 45 fridge as you and I am considering this slide.
  • Any squeaks or rattles?
  • Can the tilt be adjusted from zero to 45+ degrees?
  • Is there a lock out at the full open position to prevent the fridge sliding closed if you park on a decline? Probably not an issue if it does not because in the real world it is more likely that the tilt angle will be greater than the decline angle in most cases.
  • Is the tilt mechanism smooth and easy to return to a closed position?
  • Is Build quality good?
  • Do you recommend it?
  • The way you have it setup could some one 5’8” easily see and access all the contents of the fridge?

Please confirm if this is the one you purchased Here

Thanks
Hey!

That's the same tilt slide I purchased!

To answer your questions in order:
  • No squeaks or rattles; there's a little wiggle in the slide when it's locked in, but no more than you'd experience with any other similar HD drawer slides
  • The tilt can be adjusted via limit straps
  • The slide locks full open or full closed; so when it is out and tilted, you need to press the slide lock to get it to slide in as well as lift to un-tilt it.
  • Tilt mechanism is very smooth; "easy" will depend on how much you have in the fridge, but the handle is sturdy and my 5'5" better half has no issues with it
  • Build quality is definitely quite good. I've used their fridge slides for >5 years and it has definitely improved.
  • Definitely recommend it.
  • 100%, someone 5'8" can easily reach everything
 

Bruce

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I'm not thrilled with this positioning at all
I put the head unit cable jack for my yaesu where @ninetubes put his mic port here. You may have already seen it. On the passenger side but still very useable.
Post in thread '@ninetubes - overlanding build - western australia'
https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...ld-western-australia.12414087/post-1333244344
The port is completely hidden when not in use. It's not big enough for my GMRS jack too but since you found an excellent spot for your radio face already and have the MARS mod you should only need the one mic jack. So tempted to send off my FTM500dr for the mod so I can pare things down.
 

Brandtnm

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The last of the rapid fire upgrades are getting close...

BlendMount mount for the Valentine1 Gen2 - for how complicated it looks with all the adjustments, this was one of the easiest things I've installed and positions the V1 just under the mirror
View attachment 7855530
View attachment 7855531

Also mounted my dash cam, Rexing V1P-SE... 4K front recording (with a 1080p rear cam that I didn't install), GPS, etc. I've used these in the last 5 vehicles, always with good results
View attachment 7855532

For those keeping track, the fuse I used to grab ignition switched power to trigger the "switched power" side of the ST Blade fuse block was the power mirrors fuse (5A). I figured if the piggyback fuse holder that I added to it was going to fail I wanted it to render an insignificant circuit out of service.

Also found that, while my normal "quick grab" first aid kit lives in the pocket of the passenger rear door, my bigger kit found a perfect home. It is wedged into place and not going anywhere, that is, until the fridge moves to on top of the drawer system in the coming weeks
View attachment 7855533
Thanks for blend mount recommendations.
The last of the rapid fire upgrades are getting close...

BlendMount mount for the Valentine1 Gen2 - for how complicated it looks with all the adjustments, this was one of the easiest things I've installed and positions the V1 just under the mirror
View attachment 7855530
View attachment 7855531

Also mounted my dash cam, Rexing V1P-SE... 4K front recording (with a 1080p rear cam that I didn't install), GPS, etc. I've used these in the last 5 vehicles, always with good results
View attachment 7855532

For those keeping track, the fuse I used to grab ignition switched power to trigger the "switched power" side of the ST Blade fuse block was the power mirrors fuse (5A). I figured if the piggyback fuse holder that I added to it was going to fail I wanted it to render an insignificant circuit out of service.

Also found that, while my normal "quick grab" first aid kit lives in the pocket of the passenger rear door, my bigger kit found a perfect home. It is wedged into place and not going anywhere, that is, until the fridge moves to on top of the drawer system in the coming weeks
View attachment 7855533
The last of the rapid fire upgrades are getting close...

BlendMount mount for the Valentine1 Gen2 - for how complicated it looks with all the adjustments, this was one of the easiest things I've installed and positions the V1 just under the mirror
View attachment 7855530
View attachment 7855531

Also mounted my dash cam, Rexing V1P-SE... 4K front recording (with a 1080p rear cam that I didn't install), GPS, etc. I've used these in the last 5 vehicles, always with good results
View attachment 7855532

For those keeping track, the fuse I used to grab ignition switched power to trigger the "switched power" side of the ST Blade fuse block was the power mirrors fuse (5A). I figured if the piggyback fuse holder that I added to it was going to fail I wanted it to render an insignificant circuit out of service.

Also found that, while my normal "quick grab" first aid kit lives in the pocket of the passenger rear door, my bigger kit found a perfect home. It is wedged into place and not going anywhere, that is, until the fridge moves to on top of the drawer system in the coming weeks
View attachment 7855533

The last of the rapid fire upgrades are getting close...

BlendMount mount for the Valentine1 Gen2 - for how complicated it looks with all the adjustments, this was one of the easiest things I've installed and positions the V1 just under the mirror
View attachment 7855530
View attachment 7855531

Also mounted my dash cam, Rexing V1P-SE... 4K front recording (with a 1080p rear cam that I didn't install), GPS, etc. I've used these in the last 5 vehicles, always with good results
View attachment 7855532

For those keeping track, the fuse I used to grab ignition switched power to trigger the "switched power" side of the ST Blade fuse block was the power mirrors fuse (5A). I figured if the piggyback fuse holder that I added to it was going to fail I wanted it to render an insignificant circuit out of service.

Also found that, while my normal "quick grab" first aid kit lives in the pocket of the passenger rear door, my bigger kit found a perfect home. It is wedged into place and not going anywhere, that is, until the fridge moves to on top of the drawer system in the coming weeks
View attachment 7855533
Thanks for blendmount recommendation
Here are pics, for others following your lead, of where their wiring kit plugs into the camera, cover pulls straight down.
 

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anand

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A few things have happened...

Drawers arrived! I ordered the drawers preassembled and coated from CabinetDoorStore.com; couple weeks for them to be built and shipped and they are far better than anything I could have done out of wood. Also the convenience of just screwing the slides in caused pre-built wood to win out against DIY plastic/aluminum extrusion. They are installed on "500lb" Vevor locking full extension slides; do I think these slides will hold 500lbs? Probably not, but we also use them in our Sprinter for the toilet and fridge, and both of those hold my weight with no issues, so the real value is at least half of the rated value. The internal dimensions of each drawer are 34.25" long, 5.5" deep, and 16.25" wide. Also, yes I know they are slightly crooked in the slides, I hate it as well, and have black drawer faces that still need to be installed which will hide my errors. Also please excuse the complete lack of organization in the drawers, I just threw a bunch of stuff in.
PXL_20240704_144507870.MP.jpg
PXL_20240704_144538411.jpg

I've also been adding on to the driver's side of the drawer system. The Grenadier has a ton of vertical space in the cargo area, and I didn't want that to go to waste; additionally, the space between the window and the fridge was being wasted, so I decided to rectify both of those issues. Tied into the factory tie downs on the driver's side wall as well as the drawer system skeleton, this extension gives mounting room for my "control panel" (for lack of a better descriptor), power distribution (12 outlet Blue Sea fuse block), Victron MPPT solar controller, Victron inverter, weBoost, MIMO 5G antenna for the hotspot/hotspot itself, the Icom IC-2730A VHF/UHF radio, and the ARB Single air compressor. The Icom and ARB compressor aren't in the photos, as I'm waiting on a few extra pieces of extrusion (I moved the compressor from the original mounting spot slightly).

The control panel holds my Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, Feniex Mini 4200 switch controller, 120v outlets, ARB air connection, 12v plug, and a multitude of USBs
PXL_20240703_171019363.jpg
And a sneak peak of behind that panel (sorry, again this was an in progress picture, the wiring organization wasn't tidied up at all at that point)
PXL_20240702_211619153.jpg
The structure also allows for a shelf above the fridge (25"x20" if I recall correctly), I'm still waiting on a couple pieces of 1x3 extrusion to create a "fence" on the front and rear and I'll probably use a bungee cord or similar on the open side to hold things in place. The "shelf" is 6mm ABS plastic slid into the extrusion groove (kept from rattling with a few strips of TESA cloth tape)
PXL_20240704_144605301.jpg

Also accomplished over the past few days was my Victron IP67 AC-DC charger install; it is located forward the driver's side taillight in the bottomless pit beyond the OEM jack and held in place with a set of 4 40lb pull force magnets. It get's AC power from a NOCO connector I installed where Ineos would put the NATO plug on vehicles with the high-amp switch panel option
PXL_20240701_162309825.jpg
PXL_20240701_181527656.MP.jpg

I also ordered a few pieces of extrusion to tie the drawer system into the passenger side wall tie downs, and perhaps will build a MOLLE panel of sorts covering the passenger side cargo window. All that will arrive this weekend, so maybe another update next week. Hopefully I'll also have tracking information for my battery by then.

I didn't take any photos at all, but my negative distribution, Victron shunt, Blue Sea SafetyHub150 (main 12v distribution from the aux battery), and Switch Pros SP-9100 were all installed under the passenger side rear seat over the past few days. The only things left are to run the Victron VE.Direct communication cables from the cargo area to the back seat and make a panel to mount the Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger and the aux battery system will be complete (shy of, of course, receiving, creating a mount for, and mounting the aux battery).

Also on the docket and waiting in the garage to install are the weBoost interior and exterior antennas, a matte infotainment screen protector, some more custom cut Scotchlite lambda logos, and a Powerwerx dual USB charger for the dash, but that'll happen in due time. Also should have a few more storage bags for the drawers and a rear headrest from Blue Ridge Overland gear in a few weeks when they get made
 

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Brandtnm

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A few things have happened...

Drawers arrived! I ordered the drawers preassembled and coated from CabinetDoorStore.com; couple weeks for them to be built and shipped and they are far better than anything I could have done out of wood. Also the convenience of just screwing the slides in caused pre-built wood to win out against DIY plastic/aluminum extrusion. They are installed on "500lb" Vevor locking full extension slides; do I think these slides will hold 500lbs? Probably not, but we also use them in our Sprinter for the toilet and fridge, and both of those hold my weight with no issues, so the real value is at least half of the rated value. The internal dimensions of each drawer are 34.75" long, 5.5" deep, and 16.25" wide. Also, yes I know they are slightly crooked in the slides, I hate it as well, and have black drawer faces that still need to be installed which will hide my errors. Also please excuse the complete lack of organization in the drawers, I just threw a bunch of stuff in.
View attachment 7862381
View attachment 7862382

I've also been adding on to the driver's side of the drawer system. The Grenadier has a ton of vertical space in the cargo area, and I didn't want that to go to waste; additionally, the space between the window and the fridge was being wasted, so I decided to rectify both of those issues. Tied into the factory tie downs on the driver's side wall as well as the drawer system skeleton, this extension gives mounting room for my "control panel" (for lack of a better descriptor), power distribution (12 outlet Blue Sea fuse block), Victron MPPT solar controller, Victron inverter, weBoost, MIMO 5G antenna for the hotspot/hotspot itself, the Icom IC-2730A VHF/UHF radio, and the ARB Single air compressor. The Icom and ARB compressor aren't in the photos, as I'm waiting on a few extra pieces of extrusion (I moved the compressor from the original mounting spot slightly).

The control panel holds my Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, Feniex Mini 4200 switch controller, 120v outlets, ARB air connection, 12v plug, and a multitude of USBs
View attachment 7862383
And a sneak peak of behind that panel (sorry, again this was an in progress picture, the wiring organization wasn't tidied up at all at that point)
View attachment 7862384
The structure also allows for a shelf above the fridge (25"x20" if I recall correctly), I'm still waiting on a couple pieces of 1x3 extrusion to create a "fence" on the front and rear and I'll probably use a bungee cord or similar on the open side to hold things in place. The "shelf" is 6mm ABS plastic slid into the extrusion groove (kept from rattling with a few strips of TESA cloth tape)
View attachment 7862385

Also accomplished over the past few days was my Victron IP67 AC-DC charger install; it is located forward the driver's side taillight in the bottomless pit beyond the OEM jack and held in place with a set of 4 40lb pull force magnets. It get's AC power from a NOCO connector I installed where Ineos would put the NATO plug on vehicles with the high-amp switch panel option
View attachment 7862386
View attachment 7862388

I also ordered a few pieces of extrusion to tie the drawer system into the passenger side wall tie downs, and perhaps will build a MOLLE panel of sorts covering the passenger side cargo window. All that will arrive this weekend, so maybe another update next week. Hopefully I'll also have tracking information for my battery by then.

I didn't take any photos at all, but my negative distribution, Victron shunt, Blue Sea SafetyHub150 (main 12v distribution from the aux battery), and Switch Pros SP-9100 were all installed under the passenger side rear seat over the past few days. The only things left are to run the Victron VE.Direct communication cables from the cargo area to the back seat and make a panel to mount the Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger and the aux battery system will be complete (shy of, of course, receiving, creating a mount for, and mounting the aux battery).

Also on the docket and waiting in the garage to install are the weBoost interior and exterior antennas, a matte infotainment screen protector, some more custom cut Scotchlite lambda logos, and a Powerwerx dual USB charger for the dash, but that'll happen in due time. Also should have a few more storage bags for the drawers and a rear headrest from Blue Ridge Overland gear in a few weeks when they get made
Thanks for the photos. Will share your build sheet to the cabinet door store please? And also anything you’d do differently. And can we see how close yours line up to making a flat bed with the rear seats folded down? I’d love to do something like this but need a cost idea and I want a flat bed to throw lumber in and for big items. Thanks again.
 

anand

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Thanks for the photos. Will share your build sheet to the cabinet door store please? And also anything you’d do differently. And can we see how close yours line up to making a flat bed with the rear seats folded down? I’d love to do something like this but need a cost idea and I want a flat bed to throw lumber in and for big items. Thanks again.
If I were doing it all over again, I would probably have asked for a bit of help in physically putting the system into the vehicle... With the 500lb drawer slides, drawers, and fridge slide; it isn't light weight. I would probably guesstimate it at 130-150lbs and without any easy way of holding to lift it in. The drawer slides I used don't come apart due to their weight holding, and thus have to be bolted into the skeleton first, then to the drawers, however, this can't be done in the vehicle because the rear cargo doors (in the open position) exist where your drill must exist to screw into the drawers. So my method was to slide the table the system was on to the back bumper (with the system on its side) then lift one end about 2" into the cargo area, then rotate it into a laterally correct position while kicking the table out of the way with my feet so I could stand where it was, then pushed it into the cargo area.

Realistically, I'd probably try to square the drawers up a bit more so it wasn't angled a bit, and install the drawer fronts and handles before putting it back in the truck, because honestly now I don't really want to any more :ROFLMAO:

My build sheet won't directly transfer to most people, because my seats are moved up to the commercial position, so the system is 3.5(ish) inches longer than standard. Either way, my drawer specs are as follows:
Baltic Birch Dovetail Drawer Box - Standard - Factory Assembled/Finished in Clear
Width: 17.5"
Depth: 35.5"
Height: 6.5"

Here are a few photos of the difference in height with the seats folded, the actual measurement is around 1.75"

PXL_20240705_152504104.jpg
PXL_20240705_152436648.jpg
PXL_20240705_152555114.jpg
 
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