Build Thread MallCrl 3.0

[Tom109]

I agree that the 255/80/17 is an excellent tire size.

Me too. However, I’m starting to think 255/85R17 is the optimal size, but only one tire exists.

 

[anand]

How can you fold your rear seats in the commercial position? I can’t do it in the regular position (flip the seat base and fold the seat) - it to darn tight.

I only flip up the base to work on electrical stuff usually. To get the base up and then the back down/flat requires sliding the seats forward a bit from their normal position.

 

[255/85]

Sure!

I cut a piece of 1/4" thick ABS plastic to the shape of the cut out, drilled a hole in the middle of it for the NOCO plug, installed the NOCO with self tappers into the plastic, then secured the panel to the existing holes with some stainless self tappers (through existing holes and tapping into the ABS sheet). The wiring is run above the exhaust heat shield to the passenger rear wheel well area, and then upwards and enters through the 2 port grommet in the wheel well (can be seen next to the jack in the driver's rear wheel well area)

We opted out of the auxiliary wiring package as we wanted to use the empty NATO socket mounting point for AC input to a charger or maybe output from an inverter. Nice to know someone else is doing the same.

The NOCO plugs are designed for an exterior wall where the backside of the plug is inside the cabin. When I talked with them they said the plug is waterproof from both the front and back. Does that seem correct?

 

[anand]

When I talked with them they said the plug is waterproof from both the front and back. Does that seem correct?

Their socket is fully sealed and the only parts that are "exposed" are where the 120v plugs are themselves. Where my NOCO plugs into the wiring for my AC charger is exposed under the vehicle, but my thought process was A) I'll never be plugging in the truck when it's submerged in water up to the bumper; and B) Not sealing it in heat shrink to allow any possible water to drain out of the connection. I had the plugs for the AC chargers on my 4Runner and Tundra in the same fashion, and while fairly anecdotal, never had any issues

 

[anand]

Couple of small changes over the weekend...

I added a 2" wide strip of extrusion off of the passenger side of the drawer system (going over/towards the wheel well); primarily this was wasted space so adding a bit of extrusion adds width to the platform. Apparently I forgot to grab a photo...

I also added some more lighting to the cargo area by way of a pair of KC Cyclones... This was basically just made up from stuff I have in the garage, thus why the white one is a Cyclone V2 and the amber is a Cyclone V1. When camping with our 4Runner a handful of years ago I learned the benefits of having non-white light in the cargo area whilst cooking or just grabbing a beer; but there are also times you just want a bit more light, thus the two separate lights (on separate switches)

Also got the switch panel for the Switch Pros SP-9100 mounted. Originally I was going to cut this panel and flush mount the panel, but when I got around to it today I decided to just mount it with some VHB for now to see how I like it before cutting a giant hole in the panel. Obviously the switch covers haven't made it on yet as I haven't wired everything up (or decided on a switch layout), but as of now this will control: fog lights, grille lights, left scene, right scene, rear scene, ground lights (at the "bright" setting), and the WeBoost, which will leave one empty

 

[TXJOHN]

Some temporary (maybe?) updates, some building on previous updates, some actual updates....

Finally got around to installing my Icom IC-2730A VHF/UHF radio... I bought this one over 2 years ago, expecting to install it into the Sprinter and never got around to it. It is MARS/CAP modded (which expands the TX/RX range to include commercial, GMRS, and others), and currently installed with a very temporary magnetic NMO mount on the rear of the roof.

The body of the unit is installed between the rear seat and the drawer system. There isn't enough depth to use the Icom mount, so instead it is protected on the bottom by two layers of 3M Minicell and currently held in place with a long strip of 3M VHB to the drawer skeleton. Don't mind the mess of wires, once I figure out if the air compressor is staying here or not I'll tidy the wiring up
View attachment 7859143

The head is mounted just to the left of the steering column, this makes the display easily readable by just tilting your head a little left of normal
View attachment 7859144

But where does the mic plug in? I have an extension run to the center console. I'm not thrilled with this positioning at all, and haven't installed the MagneticMic microphone holder yet either, so this may change. Also you can see my USB cable for my phone disappearing into the center console
View attachment 7859145

Next up is the ARB single air compressor. I've never had a single in any of my trucks, always either something non-ARB, or an ARB twin. My GF had a single in her Tacoma with no issues, and this single was/is actually destined for her Forester, but given that we're supposed to be having a bit of dirt therapy on Sunday, I wanted some OBA. It is mounted using the included ARB bracket to the skeleton of the drawer system, angled upwards slightly for clearance of the rear seat back and the wheel well plastic. I made do with what I had laying around from various previous installs, so I'm running a 3/8" airline back to a 6 outlet manifold that has just the pressure sensor and ARB quick coupler in it. I'll be moving the pressure sensor back to the outlet of the compressor and figuring out a way to just have the quick coupler at the back, but alas, I came up with this plan on the fly yesterday and Amazon is still contemplating whether any of their deliveries to us are going to ship/arrive today as promised.
View attachment 7859148
View attachment 7859149

I also got the upper surface of the drawer system installed, it is 1/4" Aluminum composite panel. My last DIY box/drawer set up used actual aluminum as the top surface, but that was both a good bit of weight, and not quite the look I wanted so I figured I would try this material. We'll see how it holds up, but it arrived with two corners bent (they are at the rear-seat side) and got a bit of a scratch the first time I slid anything over it. Seems a bit ridiculous to carry all my stuff in a box on top of the drawer system, but since I don't have drawers yet...
View attachment 7859150

Finally, a purely aesthetic modification to my WeatherTech mats...
View attachment 7859151

So, the question was how were you able to attach the drawer frame to the floor of the Gren? Or did you not feel it necessary? Thanks for all the info you provide, it really helps a novice.

 

[anand]

So, the question was how were you able to attach the drawer frame to the floor of the Gren? Or did you not feel it necessary? Thanks for all the info you provide, it really helps a novice.

The "forward" mounting positions go to the rear seat bolts (where the normal rear seat back bolts into). The "rear" mounting position I flubbed up and couldn't easily get to after the drawers, so that is handled by the side mounting bars since it also ties into both of the vertical tie down points on each side

 

[nuclearmonkey]

So for those of us a bit more 'mechanically challenged', I'm assuming you have a separate switch for the left, right, and rear exterior lights. If so, and wired through the factory roof outlets, how did you separate them on their own switches? I have been thinking about this as I take delivery on my truck in about a week, and really don't like the idea of all of them on one switch.

Thanks in advance!

 

[anand]

So for those of us a bit more 'mechanically challenged', I'm assuming you have a separate switch for the left, right, and rear exterior lights. If so, and wired through the factory roof outlets, how did you separate them on their own switches? I have been thinking about this as I take delivery on my truck in about a week, and really don't like the idea of all of them on one switch.

Thanks in advance!

Ooof! Thank you for making me realize I never uploaded a photo of the switch panel after putting the labels on! I'll grab one tomorrow...

I'm not using the factory roof outlets as I didn't get that option (specifically because I knew I was going this route).

I could have drilled holes in the factory grab bar covers (the plastic panels) and run the wires through that into the factory holes in the body, but instead just decided to run them down the 70 side cargo door channel. I currently have both antenna wires coming down the 30 side seal and all the roof lighting wires coming down the 70 side.

Wiring for the solar panel will probably run down the 30 side with the antenna wires as will the Starlink Mini power wires.

Oh yea, I joined the cool kids and ordered a Starlink Mini last night along with a Trio Flat mount for it, so we'll see how that goes

 

[anand]

As an update from before, here's the Switch Pros w/ the labels added to it...

"Whip" is for the WeBoost... and the blank left over will be repurposed when my Starlink Mini arrives (hopefully next week?)... I need to see if anyone makes custom labels for the Switch Pros controllers, as they don't have anything for the cell booster or Starlink.

I also added the ground lights today. Thus far, it is 6 Diode Dynamics single color rock lights. One under each side door, and two under the rear end. I am using the Diode Dynamics magnetic mounts for them and they feel pretty good. I've used magnetic rock lights (KC Cyclones) on several previous builds with great luck. There's nothing under the front end at this point simply because there was no great spot I found to mount them. Flushing them into the front skid plate is an idea, but I'm not that desperate for light under my front end. Since these lights have a "high" and "low" power function, the high power is wired to the switch on the SwitchPros and the low power will be wired to a relay triggered by the foot well lights so they'll come on when opening a door

 

[anand]

Another few updates to the build...

As small of a thing as this is, I've noticed my fridge slides front/back about 1.5" inside the slide, and it has been getting slightly worse. The cam straps that came with the slide seem like they aren't holding as well as they used to, so I replaced them with a set of TitanStraps. They seem substantially more robust and secure than the cam lock straps.

I also wired up a 24v converter for the Starlink Mini; this is fed from position 8 on the SwitchPros, and goes to a 5A 24v converter located in the cargo area. Doing this over again I would probably just go with a 48v converter, but I ordered the 24v when I first ordered the Starlink Mini, and assumed (erroneously) that because the supplied Starlink power adapter's output was 30v, that was the max the unit could handle. The Starlink Mini accepts up to 48v. From the 24v converter it goes to a female 5521 barrel connector that currently supplies the OE Starlink 50ft cable. In the coming days I have a 5m cable coming as well as the Trio flat mount to mount the unit to my roof rack.

Also today I decided to do something I've been putting off for a while, which is to drill a hole through my driver's side A-Pillar. In looking for a good way to mount a GPS device, I realized there was a perfectly good M6 threaded hole in the A-Pillar, well below the airbag height (this is what the lower bolt on the grab handle goes to). A few guesstimations later I ordered a (not RAM, but RAM compatible) M6 ball mount and some M6 spacers. I inserted one of the spacers and reinstalled the A Pillar trim to mark where the hole exists, and then started slowly stepping up the drill bit sizing until the ball mount fit through the hole (1/2" for those wondering). I then dug through my bin of random RAM parts and found a medium length size B arm and 65mm magnet mount, and a GPS mount was born.

I'm a huge fan of the magnet mounts (if you've noticed from the rest of my RAM mounts) as it allows for SUPER quick placement/removal of the device, and when using Scosche magnets on the device side, haven't had any issues with holding the devices in place on bumping tracks.

My device selection for this is a bit unique. I love Garmin's road navigation, and feel that it's traffic rerouting is much less biased then Google/Waze; I also love the fact that it shows rest areas and other POIs with ease in comparison to Google Maps. We use a Garmin Tread XL in the Sprinter, but that is far too large for the dash area of the Grenadier, and I couldn't justify the $1300 for a traditional Garmin Tread, nor the $700ish for the now very outdated Garmin Overlander. I also am not a huge fan of Garmin's off road navigation, and prefer the Gaia (or even OnX) experience instead.

So on Prime day I grabbed a pair of deals to be the best of both worlds. A refurb'd Garmin DriveSmart 86 and an iPad Mini 6 (256GB/5G); and now can quickly swap between them for on road and off road navigation. They are very nearly the same size and both fit really well at the base of the A-Pillar.

I also got the low-power wiring for the ground lights done and triggered by the interior footwell light so they come on when you unlock the vehicle or open (or close) a door.

We're almost to the end of the initial build, just waiting on some steel parts to be finished and hopefully get some more trips under my belt in this thing!

 

[anand]

I'm still awaiting my full length roof rack (I'm grouping my pick up with the rack, sliders, and winch mount), so I decided to just pop the Starlink Mini up top with 60lb pull magnets. It is mounted on a TRIO Flat mount. In lieu of the 15m (ish?) factory cable, I got a 5m cable on Amazon that has the same waterproof (weather resistant?) ends, which is just the right length to run from the front of the roof to the rear driver's side of the cargo area where my 24v converter is.

Please excuse the dirty roof, it's been a bit since I washed it...
View attachment PXL_20240812_170656676.jpg

No issues with it being just a bit below the rack height, and once the full length rack is on (and the solar is in place), this should sit just ever so slightly above the top of the rack. On the ride up to RDS this morning to have my AC looked at, whilst going under a number of overpasses in Baltimore, it tested at 80mbps down and 30mbps up; more than enough to maintain a zoom call.

Oh, also, less than 2 weeks into my new windshield's life, I noticed a nice 6+" vertical crack (with an impact mark near the edge of the glass) coming down from the top of the passenger side. This one is far from my line of sight, so it'll be existing for a while before I put another windshield in, and probably looking into some sort of glass protectant film

 

[anand]

As an update to my AC issue... About a week ago it started hissing/whistling from within the dash, first only on start up, then intermittently while the AC was on and cooling ability substantially decreased.

It was an O-Ring that was leaking; RDS had the part in stock, quickly replaced and I was back on the road!

Also hit my windshield crack with the Rain-X DIY kit, as well as another small chip directly in my line of sight that appeared this morning

 

[ColoradoMike]

Outstanding build thread! You have given me a TON of ideas!

 

[anand]

Outstanding build thread! You have given me a TON of ideas!

Happy to help!

With a bit of luck the winch and full length rack will be installed next weekend, along with a bit more dirty therapy

 

[andremacd]

Fantastic build anand. Thank you. Am interested in hearing how much the sound proofing has helped as well as your thoughts on the improved audio quality over stock?
Cheers

 

[anand]

Fantastic build anand. Thank you. Am interested in hearing how much the sound proofing has helped as well as your thoughts on the improved audio quality over stock?
Cheers

Sound proofing helped, not night and day, but noticeable (I added too many variables in order for an "after" test to be valid unfortunately).

The stereo quality is a nice and easy upgrade. Honestly I would go with something like the Audiofrog GA62 for front door speakers if I did it again because they won't require and Dremel-ing of the surround to fit, and the fronts make much more of a difference than rears

 

[Dan.lewispv]

Hi @anand I'm very happy for you. He's finally here. You have big plans for the Grenadier. Great detailed description. Have fun with the extension and conversion. Enjoy your time with the Grenadier. But don't forget the Sprinter. Soon we'll both have these two excellent vehicles.

Love the threa. Got my IG about two weeks ago . My wife calls it the little Sprinter, alongside my 2019 Sprinter 4x4. I’m in the Olympic National Park, WA with my Sprinter right now. Working on IG build. Tires 255/80-17 Goodyear DuratracRT go on next week. Still undecided on rack. Like Buzz Overland but also like Owl Off-road. Buzz looks very flexible for tiedowns, but I like option with full deck to have full access to walk, sit, sleep on roof of Owl. DAN

 

[Fremont]

Thanks for the writeup, curious to see what way you go on the winch.

 

[anand]

It's been a while, we were out of town for 10 days going through Germany/France/Switzerland (and a tiny cut through of Austria) on a bit of a automotive pilgrimage (for me) and some sightseeing (for her). After seeing the Ineos factory in Hambach and seeing what actually makes these vehicles, it's quite impressive. I posted elsewhere about it, but I had no idea the intricate hands-on involvement it takes for the contrast roof to be painted... The body goes through a normal paint process in the base color, then gets pulled off the line and into a separate room/cell, where two workers use handheld sanders to sand the paint from the roof surface to bring it back to a prepped starting point. They then tape off the rest of the body, and the whole thing rejoins the paint queue for the roof spray. To ensure proper timing, the paint robots go through all the same painting motions for the whole body, but only spray as they pass the roof. Once this is complete, all the masking is removed by hand and then the body goes through it's normal finishing/QC rounds. This adds something like 3 hours to the normal 12 hour rotation through the "body shop" portion of the assembly process, per vehicle.

Also, 11 days of no driving, main battery was at 88% state of charge when I started it, so roughly 1% per day, or virtually negligible unless you're going months between driving your vehicle.

Thanks for the writeup, curious to see what way you go on the winch.

I have a Warn VR EVO 12-S sitting in a box in the garage, it'll be installed on Tuesday, along with the winch mount (LFD Off Road), LFD step sliders, and swapping over to the full length roof rack. A Factor55 FlatLink E and Factor55 Fairlead are also in the box awaiting install