Build Thread MallCrl 3.0

[Asnes]

Victron is the way to go. Are you installing their 1200w blue smart inverter? Where do you plan to put it?

I was trying to figure out where I could install the 1200w version but under the seats seems to be a no go based dimensions.

 

[anand]

Victron is the way to go. Are you installing their 1200w blue smart inverter? Where do you plan to put it?

I was trying to figure out where I could install the 1200w version but under the seats seems to be a no go based dimensions.

My pile of Victron includes: Phoenix 12/1200 inverter, Orion XS DC-DC charger, MPPT 75/15 solar charge controller, IP67 12/25 AC-DC charger, BMV-712, and a Cerbo-S.

If you didn't have the aux battery or sub, the Phoenix 1200VA could fit in that spot. My original plan was to mount it in the void behind the driver's side cargo panel, but I think it'll be too large, so I may mount it between my drawers and the cargo panel on the driver's side... More aluminum is arriving this weekend to construct another shelf up and over the fridge, so I'll see then

 

[Asnes]

Got it. Makes sense. I’ve got 2nd batt so no room in there. You’ve confirmed that this unit will need to go somewhere external. Under passenger seat could be an option but I do like that place for storing things

 

[Xrford]

Hi @anand I was wondering if you could give a short review of the DFG offroad fridge slide? I have the same Dometic cfx3 45 fridge as you and I am considering this slide.

• Any squeaks or rattles?
• Can the tilt be adjusted from zero to 45+ degrees?
• Is there a lock out at the full open position to prevent the fridge sliding closed if you park on a decline? Probably not an issue if it does not because in the real world it is more likely that the tilt angle will be greater than the decline angle in most cases.
• Is the tilt mechanism smooth and easy to return to a closed position?
• Is Build quality good?
• Do you recommend it?
• The way you have it setup could some one 5’8” easily see and access all the contents of the fridge?

Please confirm if this is the one you purchased Here

Thanks

 

[anand]

Hi @anand I was wondering if you could give a short review of the DFG offroad fridge slide? I have the same Dometic cfx3 45 fridge as you and I am considering this slide.

• Any squeaks or rattles?
• Can the tilt be adjusted from zero to 45+ degrees?
• Is there a lock out at the full open position to prevent the fridge sliding closed if you park on a decline? Probably not an issue if it does not because in the real world it is more likely that the tilt angle will be greater than the decline angle in most cases.
• Is the tilt mechanism smooth and easy to return to a closed position?
• Is Build quality good?
• Do you recommend it?
• The way you have it setup could some one 5’8” easily see and access all the contents of the fridge?

Please confirm if this is the one you purchased Here

Thanks

Hey!

That's the same tilt slide I purchased!

To answer your questions in order:

• No squeaks or rattles; there's a little wiggle in the slide when it's locked in, but no more than you'd experience with any other similar HD drawer slides
• The tilt can be adjusted via limit straps
• The slide locks full open or full closed; so when it is out and tilted, you need to press the slide lock to get it to slide in as well as lift to un-tilt it.
• Tilt mechanism is very smooth; "easy" will depend on how much you have in the fridge, but the handle is sturdy and my 5'5" better half has no issues with it
• Build quality is definitely quite good. I've used their fridge slides for >5 years and it has definitely improved.
• Definitely recommend it.
• 100%, someone 5'8" can easily reach everything

 

[Bruce]

I'm not thrilled with this positioning at all

I put the head unit cable jack for my yaesu where @ninetubes put his mic port here. You may have already seen it. On the passenger side but still very useable.
Post in thread '@ninetubes - overlanding build - western australia'
https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...ld-western-australia.12414087/post-1333244344
The port is completely hidden when not in use. It's not big enough for my GMRS jack too but since you found an excellent spot for your radio face already and have the MARS mod you should only need the one mic jack. So tempted to send off my FTM500dr for the mod so I can pare things down.

 

[Brandtnm]

The last of the rapid fire upgrades are getting close...

BlendMount mount for the Valentine1 Gen2 - for how complicated it looks with all the adjustments, this was one of the easiest things I've installed and positions the V1 just under the mirror
View attachment 7855530
View attachment 7855531

Also mounted my dash cam, Rexing V1P-SE... 4K front recording (with a 1080p rear cam that I didn't install), GPS, etc. I've used these in the last 5 vehicles, always with good results
View attachment 7855532

For those keeping track, the fuse I used to grab ignition switched power to trigger the "switched power" side of the ST Blade fuse block was the power mirrors fuse (5A). I figured if the piggyback fuse holder that I added to it was going to fail I wanted it to render an insignificant circuit out of service.

Also found that, while my normal "quick grab" first aid kit lives in the pocket of the passenger rear door, my bigger kit found a perfect home. It is wedged into place and not going anywhere, that is, until the fridge moves to on top of the drawer system in the coming weeks
View attachment 7855533

Thanks for blend mount recommendations.

The last of the rapid fire upgrades are getting close...

BlendMount mount for the Valentine1 Gen2 - for how complicated it looks with all the adjustments, this was one of the easiest things I've installed and positions the V1 just under the mirror
View attachment 7855530
View attachment 7855531

Also mounted my dash cam, Rexing V1P-SE... 4K front recording (with a 1080p rear cam that I didn't install), GPS, etc. I've used these in the last 5 vehicles, always with good results
View attachment 7855532

For those keeping track, the fuse I used to grab ignition switched power to trigger the "switched power" side of the ST Blade fuse block was the power mirrors fuse (5A). I figured if the piggyback fuse holder that I added to it was going to fail I wanted it to render an insignificant circuit out of service.

Also found that, while my normal "quick grab" first aid kit lives in the pocket of the passenger rear door, my bigger kit found a perfect home. It is wedged into place and not going anywhere, that is, until the fridge moves to on top of the drawer system in the coming weeks
View attachment 7855533

The last of the rapid fire upgrades are getting close...

BlendMount mount for the Valentine1 Gen2 - for how complicated it looks with all the adjustments, this was one of the easiest things I've installed and positions the V1 just under the mirror
View attachment 7855530
View attachment 7855531

Also mounted my dash cam, Rexing V1P-SE... 4K front recording (with a 1080p rear cam that I didn't install), GPS, etc. I've used these in the last 5 vehicles, always with good results
View attachment 7855532

For those keeping track, the fuse I used to grab ignition switched power to trigger the "switched power" side of the ST Blade fuse block was the power mirrors fuse (5A). I figured if the piggyback fuse holder that I added to it was going to fail I wanted it to render an insignificant circuit out of service.

Also found that, while my normal "quick grab" first aid kit lives in the pocket of the passenger rear door, my bigger kit found a perfect home. It is wedged into place and not going anywhere, that is, until the fridge moves to on top of the drawer system in the coming weeks
View attachment 7855533

The last of the rapid fire upgrades are getting close...

BlendMount mount for the Valentine1 Gen2 - for how complicated it looks with all the adjustments, this was one of the easiest things I've installed and positions the V1 just under the mirror
View attachment 7855530
View attachment 7855531

Also mounted my dash cam, Rexing V1P-SE... 4K front recording (with a 1080p rear cam that I didn't install), GPS, etc. I've used these in the last 5 vehicles, always with good results
View attachment 7855532

For those keeping track, the fuse I used to grab ignition switched power to trigger the "switched power" side of the ST Blade fuse block was the power mirrors fuse (5A). I figured if the piggyback fuse holder that I added to it was going to fail I wanted it to render an insignificant circuit out of service.

Also found that, while my normal "quick grab" first aid kit lives in the pocket of the passenger rear door, my bigger kit found a perfect home. It is wedged into place and not going anywhere, that is, until the fridge moves to on top of the drawer system in the coming weeks
View attachment 7855533

Thanks for blendmount recommendation
Here are pics, for others following your lead, of where their wiring kit plugs into the camera, cover pulls straight down.

 

[anand]

A few things have happened...

Drawers arrived! I ordered the drawers preassembled and coated from CabinetDoorStore.com; couple weeks for them to be built and shipped and they are far better than anything I could have done out of wood. Also the convenience of just screwing the slides in caused pre-built wood to win out against DIY plastic/aluminum extrusion. They are installed on "500lb" Vevor locking full extension slides; do I think these slides will hold 500lbs? Probably not, but we also use them in our Sprinter for the toilet and fridge, and both of those hold my weight with no issues, so the real value is at least half of the rated value. The internal dimensions of each drawer are 34.25" long, 5.5" deep, and 16.25" wide. Also, yes I know they are slightly crooked in the slides, I hate it as well, and have black drawer faces that still need to be installed which will hide my errors. Also please excuse the complete lack of organization in the drawers, I just threw a bunch of stuff in.

I've also been adding on to the driver's side of the drawer system. The Grenadier has a ton of vertical space in the cargo area, and I didn't want that to go to waste; additionally, the space between the window and the fridge was being wasted, so I decided to rectify both of those issues. Tied into the factory tie downs on the driver's side wall as well as the drawer system skeleton, this extension gives mounting room for my "control panel" (for lack of a better descriptor), power distribution (12 outlet Blue Sea fuse block), Victron MPPT solar controller, Victron inverter, weBoost, MIMO 5G antenna for the hotspot/hotspot itself, the Icom IC-2730A VHF/UHF radio, and the ARB Single air compressor. The Icom and ARB compressor aren't in the photos, as I'm waiting on a few extra pieces of extrusion (I moved the compressor from the original mounting spot slightly).

The control panel holds my Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, Feniex Mini 4200 switch controller, 120v outlets, ARB air connection, 12v plug, and a multitude of USBs

And a sneak peak of behind that panel (sorry, again this was an in progress picture, the wiring organization wasn't tidied up at all at that point)

The structure also allows for a shelf above the fridge (25"x20" if I recall correctly), I'm still waiting on a couple pieces of 1x3 extrusion to create a "fence" on the front and rear and I'll probably use a bungee cord or similar on the open side to hold things in place. The "shelf" is 6mm ABS plastic slid into the extrusion groove (kept from rattling with a few strips of TESA cloth tape)

Also accomplished over the past few days was my Victron IP67 AC-DC charger install; it is located forward the driver's side taillight in the bottomless pit beyond the OEM jack and held in place with a set of 4 40lb pull force magnets. It get's AC power from a NOCO connector I installed where Ineos would put the NATO plug on vehicles with the high-amp switch panel option

I also ordered a few pieces of extrusion to tie the drawer system into the passenger side wall tie downs, and perhaps will build a MOLLE panel of sorts covering the passenger side cargo window. All that will arrive this weekend, so maybe another update next week. Hopefully I'll also have tracking information for my battery by then.

I didn't take any photos at all, but my negative distribution, Victron shunt, Blue Sea SafetyHub150 (main 12v distribution from the aux battery), and Switch Pros SP-9100 were all installed under the passenger side rear seat over the past few days. The only things left are to run the Victron VE.Direct communication cables from the cargo area to the back seat and make a panel to mount the Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger and the aux battery system will be complete (shy of, of course, receiving, creating a mount for, and mounting the aux battery).

Also on the docket and waiting in the garage to install are the weBoost interior and exterior antennas, a matte infotainment screen protector, some more custom cut Scotchlite lambda logos, and a Powerwerx dual USB charger for the dash, but that'll happen in due time. Also should have a few more storage bags for the drawers and a rear headrest from Blue Ridge Overland gear in a few weeks when they get made

 

[Brandtnm]

A few things have happened...

Drawers arrived! I ordered the drawers preassembled and coated from CabinetDoorStore.com; couple weeks for them to be built and shipped and they are far better than anything I could have done out of wood. Also the convenience of just screwing the slides in caused pre-built wood to win out against DIY plastic/aluminum extrusion. They are installed on "500lb" Vevor locking full extension slides; do I think these slides will hold 500lbs? Probably not, but we also use them in our Sprinter for the toilet and fridge, and both of those hold my weight with no issues, so the real value is at least half of the rated value. The internal dimensions of each drawer are 34.75" long, 5.5" deep, and 16.25" wide. Also, yes I know they are slightly crooked in the slides, I hate it as well, and have black drawer faces that still need to be installed which will hide my errors. Also please excuse the complete lack of organization in the drawers, I just threw a bunch of stuff in.
View attachment 7862381
View attachment 7862382

I've also been adding on to the driver's side of the drawer system. The Grenadier has a ton of vertical space in the cargo area, and I didn't want that to go to waste; additionally, the space between the window and the fridge was being wasted, so I decided to rectify both of those issues. Tied into the factory tie downs on the driver's side wall as well as the drawer system skeleton, this extension gives mounting room for my "control panel" (for lack of a better descriptor), power distribution (12 outlet Blue Sea fuse block), Victron MPPT solar controller, Victron inverter, weBoost, MIMO 5G antenna for the hotspot/hotspot itself, the Icom IC-2730A VHF/UHF radio, and the ARB Single air compressor. The Icom and ARB compressor aren't in the photos, as I'm waiting on a few extra pieces of extrusion (I moved the compressor from the original mounting spot slightly).

The control panel holds my Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, Feniex Mini 4200 switch controller, 120v outlets, ARB air connection, 12v plug, and a multitude of USBs
View attachment 7862383
And a sneak peak of behind that panel (sorry, again this was an in progress picture, the wiring organization wasn't tidied up at all at that point)
View attachment 7862384
The structure also allows for a shelf above the fridge (25"x20" if I recall correctly), I'm still waiting on a couple pieces of 1x3 extrusion to create a "fence" on the front and rear and I'll probably use a bungee cord or similar on the open side to hold things in place. The "shelf" is 6mm ABS plastic slid into the extrusion groove (kept from rattling with a few strips of TESA cloth tape)
View attachment 7862385

Also accomplished over the past few days was my Victron IP67 AC-DC charger install; it is located forward the driver's side taillight in the bottomless pit beyond the OEM jack and held in place with a set of 4 40lb pull force magnets. It get's AC power from a NOCO connector I installed where Ineos would put the NATO plug on vehicles with the high-amp switch panel option
View attachment 7862386
View attachment 7862388

I also ordered a few pieces of extrusion to tie the drawer system into the passenger side wall tie downs, and perhaps will build a MOLLE panel of sorts covering the passenger side cargo window. All that will arrive this weekend, so maybe another update next week. Hopefully I'll also have tracking information for my battery by then.

I didn't take any photos at all, but my negative distribution, Victron shunt, Blue Sea SafetyHub150 (main 12v distribution from the aux battery), and Switch Pros SP-9100 were all installed under the passenger side rear seat over the past few days. The only things left are to run the Victron VE.Direct communication cables from the cargo area to the back seat and make a panel to mount the Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger and the aux battery system will be complete (shy of, of course, receiving, creating a mount for, and mounting the aux battery).

Also on the docket and waiting in the garage to install are the weBoost interior and exterior antennas, a matte infotainment screen protector, some more custom cut Scotchlite lambda logos, and a Powerwerx dual USB charger for the dash, but that'll happen in due time. Also should have a few more storage bags for the drawers and a rear headrest from Blue Ridge Overland gear in a few weeks when they get made

Thanks for the photos. Will share your build sheet to the cabinet door store please? And also anything you’d do differently. And can we see how close yours line up to making a flat bed with the rear seats folded down? I’d love to do something like this but need a cost idea and I want a flat bed to throw lumber in and for big items. Thanks again.

 

[anand]

Thanks for the photos. Will share your build sheet to the cabinet door store please? And also anything you’d do differently. And can we see how close yours line up to making a flat bed with the rear seats folded down? I’d love to do something like this but need a cost idea and I want a flat bed to throw lumber in and for big items. Thanks again.

If I were doing it all over again, I would probably have asked for a bit of help in physically putting the system into the vehicle... With the 500lb drawer slides, drawers, and fridge slide; it isn't light weight. I would probably guesstimate it at 130-150lbs and without any easy way of holding to lift it in. The drawer slides I used don't come apart due to their weight holding, and thus have to be bolted into the skeleton first, then to the drawers, however, this can't be done in the vehicle because the rear cargo doors (in the open position) exist where your drill must exist to screw into the drawers. So my method was to slide the table the system was on to the back bumper (with the system on its side) then lift one end about 2" into the cargo area, then rotate it into a laterally correct position while kicking the table out of the way with my feet so I could stand where it was, then pushed it into the cargo area.

Realistically, I'd probably try to square the drawers up a bit more so it wasn't angled a bit, and install the drawer fronts and handles before putting it back in the truck, because honestly now I don't really want to any more

My build sheet won't directly transfer to most people, because my seats are moved up to the commercial position, so the system is 3.5(ish) inches longer than standard. Either way, my drawer specs are as follows:

Baltic Birch Dovetail Drawer Box - Standard - Factory Assembled/Finished in Clear
Width: 17.5"
Depth: 35.5"
Height: 6.5"

Here are a few photos of the difference in height with the seats folded, the actual measurement is around 1.75"

 

[nuclearmonkey]

My pile of Victron includes: Phoenix 12/1200 inverter, Orion XS DC-DC charger, MPPT 75/15 solar charge controller, IP67 12/25 AC-DC charger, BMV-712, and a Cerbo-S.

If you didn't have the aux battery or sub, the Phoenix 1200VA could fit in that spot. My original plan was to mount it in the void behind the driver's side cargo panel, but I think it'll be too large, so I may mount it between my drawers and the cargo panel on the driver's side... More aluminum is arriving this weekend to construct another shelf up and over the fridge, so I'll see then

With this setup, is the solar panel only able to charge the lithium? Are you considering an extra mppt for the starter, or just relying on a jump pack? Thanks in advance! You've got me reconsidering my plan!

 

[anand]

With this setup, is the solar panel only able to charge the lithium? Are you considering an extra mppt for the starter, or just relying on a jump pack? Thanks in advance! You've got me reconsidering my plan!

Everything only charges the lithium, there's no reason the starting battery should need any sort of charging as everything (shy of the air compressor and extra USB charger for our phones in the dash) is wired to the lithium.

 

[anand]

Spent the past two weekends having dirt therapy with the truck, and all good stuff... Finally got some noticeable pinstripes down both sides, some scratches in the wheels, and I'm sure some Carolina clay that will be part of the underside for life, so it's finally getting close to broken in!

A couple weekends ago I got a very quiet rock chip on the driver's edge of the windshield glass, which in a matter of seconds was halfway across the windshield, and in <30 minutes was only about 4" shy of the passenger's edge. So I'll be headed up next week to have that taken care of at RDS, along with my 12k service.

My Dakota Lithium aux. battery should arrive tomorrow, so hopefully this weekend when our weather clears up I can get the mount built, mount/wire the Orion XS DC-DC charger, and have power to everything!

But for current alterations to the vehicle, I have a temporary 3/4 length roof rack from LFD Off Road. I have a full length rack on order but it wasn't back from powder in time, and they wanted to get some promo photos/video the following morning, so we put on a spray painted 3/4 rack (with only half as many cross bars as it normally has). I'll head back down to NC to swap out for the full length rack when my winch carrier/bumper and sliders are ready for pick up, hopefully in the coming weeks. Full disclosure: I have used LFD products for >5 years on 4 different vehicles and have become good friends with the owner, subsequently, I am supporting a friend's business by purchasing these products, but my thoughts/opinions are my actual feelings

I have to say, the 400mi drive home was impressive. I had the hi-lift and a Gazelle T4 on the roof rack and it was absolutely silent at 80mph; I imagine the full length will have some wind noise, but it also adds over 2' of usable rack space over the 3/4, so I'm ok with that. It should be noted how epically long the roof is on a Grenadier. The 3/4 length rack from LFD is longer than their full length rack for a Lexus GX.

Install was fairly quick, and can easily be done by a single person. I'll say that my install was a bit longer than it should have been, as the rack we used was pulled from the production system well before completion and did not have the welded/captured nuts in place, and required using a wrench in a very tight space to tighten the bolts. The normal production version uses weld-nuts for virtually every "tight" spot

Oh! Keen readers will also notice that I swapped the grab bars out for black ones from Amazon, this was a simple 5 minute job that just involves taking off the 6 bolts per grab bar.

Also took advantage of some Prime day sales and grabbed an iPad Mini 6 and a Garmin DriveSmart 86 to go in lieu of the Garmin Tread XL we have in the Sprinter (the Tread XL just takes up a bit too much space in the Grenadier dash area for me and I have two other inReach handhelds). Still working out the mounting for this, but I think it'll use an easy swap mount (magnet or Ram X-Grip) off of the base of the driver's A-pillar or dash

 

[ScottnAZ]

Rack looks great! I’ve been procrastinating the purchase of a Leitner rack, and now the LFD rack throws a wrench in the plan

The wagon looks great rollin’ through some mud!! Is that the road to the nearby Nordstrom????

 

[anand]

Is that the road to the nearby Nordstrom????

No no, opposite end of the mall, this is over by Saks and the Abercrombie store

 

[Asnes]

@anand Can you describe a little bit about how you installed your NOCO inlet? I'd like to do the same for my Victron charger / power supply.

 

[anand]

@anand Can you describe a little bit about how you installed your NOCO inlet? I'd like to do the same for my Victron charger / power supply.

Sure!

I cut a piece of 1/4" thick ABS plastic to the shape of the cut out, drilled a hole in the middle of it for the NOCO plug, installed the NOCO with self tappers into the plastic, then secured the panel to the existing holes with some stainless self tappers (through existing holes and tapping into the ABS sheet). The wiring is run above the exhaust heat shield to the passenger rear wheel well area, and then upwards and enters through the 2 port grommet in the wheel well (can be seen next to the jack in the driver's rear wheel well area)

 

[Asnes]

Cool thanks!

 

[anand]

The battery arrived, and I quickly went to work...

It is definitely a bit messier looking than I would like; and I'm sure there was a better method for a battery tie down, but the several year old, well used ratchet strap just happened to be the right length.

The Orion XS is mounted to a piece of 1/4" ABS that is shaped/bent to stand it off the floor by about 3" (closest to the camera, 1" near the midline of the vehicle) and also has a pair of 40mm Noctua case fans under it to move air across the bottom of the DC-DC charger. The Orion XS is MUCH smaller and efficient than the older Orion TR chargers, but I think I'm still a bit gun shy of the amount of heat that could be generated. In our Sprinter we run 3 of the Orion TR 12/12-30A chargers, and each is cooled by a trio of 40mm fans blowing through the heatsink, so I scaled it down to 2 and just blowing up at the underside of the Orion XS. The fans are triggered by ignition switched 12v (which also is the primary trigger for the Orion). The Orion also has the secondary requirement of proper input voltage to enable DC-DC charging.

At the bottom of the image you'll see the Blue Sea SafetyHub 150 which is the primary DC power distribution for the aux battery (DC-DC, rear 12v distribution, inverter, and the Switch Pros make up the "high amp" outputs, and low amp outputs currently are power for the Victron Cerbo only).

Just off to the left (towards the rear of the vehicle) the Switch Pros SP-9100 is mounted against the back "wall" of the cubby, although it is not yet wired up other than the main DC input cable. The large black wiring loom coming in under the seat are the main wires headed to the back (2x 2AWG for the inverter, 1x 4AWG for the inverter case ground, and 2x 4AWG for the rear 12v distribution block)

I'm happy to report that everything seems to be working just fine, including the AC-DC charging. The only thing not yet tested is the MPPT controller because I don't have any solar panels... Yet.

With the Victron Cerbo and the hotspot I have in the vehicle, I can also do full remote monitoring of the electrical system (and environmental info from some awesome temp/humidity sensors).

Also started adding stuff to the roof rack; while this rack is only temporary, I'll just swap the cross bars to the full length rack when that is ready, so I may as well load them up).

The WeBoost Drive Reach Overland Edition (I miss when it was just a weboost or a cell booster because no one had heard of it before) antenna quickly was installed. Being almost 8ft in the air I felt that not having the extensions on the antenna was alright, but it does fold to a horizontal position for daily driving.

I also mounted my VHF/UHF antenna on the opposite side of the rear cross bar using a simple 90° NMO mount. Last bit for the day was to mount (but not yet wire) a pair of Diode Dynamics SSC2 lights on the back of the rack; these are "pro" power level and "flood" beam pattern with amber backlights and will be augmented by a single SSC2 Pro Flood on each side of the rack.

Last but not least for this update, I installed the GP Factor fender plates. Super easy install, and I applied 3M Adhesion promotor on the fenders prior to the install... Also, don't forget to stay hydrated while working on your vehicles

 

[Tom109]

If I were doing it all over again, I would probably have asked for a bit of help in physically putting the system into the vehicle... With the 500lb drawer slides, drawers, and fridge slide; it isn't light weight. I would probably guesstimate it at 130-150lbs and without any easy way of holding to lift it in. The drawer slides I used don't come apart due to their weight holding, and thus have to be bolted into the skeleton first, then to the drawers, however, this can't be done in the vehicle because the rear cargo doors (in the open position) exist where your drill must exist to screw into the drawers. So my method was to slide the table the system was on to the back bumper (with the system on its side) then lift one end about 2" into the cargo area, then rotate it into a laterally correct position while kicking the table out of the way with my feet so I could stand where it was, then pushed it into the cargo area.

Realistically, I'd probably try to square the drawers up a bit more so it wasn't angled a bit, and install the drawer fronts and handles before putting it back in the truck, because honestly now I don't really want to any more

My build sheet won't directly transfer to most people, because my seats are moved up to the commercial position, so the system is 3.5(ish) inches longer than standard. Either way, my drawer specs are as follows:


Here are a few photos of the difference in height with the seats folded, the actual measurement is around 1.75"

How can you fold your rear seats in the commercial position? I can’t do it in the regular position (flip the seat base and fold the seat) - it to darn tight.