Let's get some perspective: Is your Grenadier AC working as it should?

[G-Man]

Who else's AC is batsh1t crazy and randomly blows hot air one day and cold the next on the exact same setting? I don't think the AC system got the attention it deserved during the 1.2 million miles of road testing, that's for sure. I love my new truck but it's the one thing that drives me nuts on pretty much a daily basis as I fiddle away at the controls and I'm surprised Ineos haven't found a fix for it yet. I gather it's down to sticky solenoid valves or such like and is probably an expensive warranty concern for them.

It would be useful to set up a poll on this forum and get an idea of what percentage and numbers of owners here have flaky AC. This forum must represent a decent amount of the Grenadier owner population, perhaps it would help sharpen Ineos' perspective on the issue if it popped up on every Google search relating to Grenadier AC issues. I don't have the ability to raise a forum poll but maybe @Stu_Barnes would consider it a worthy exercise

 

[Skydance]

Following on my previous post. I tested it for a couple of days and the HVAC works as intended on both auto and manual mode.

I’ve yet to test if it drips (not humid enough) but I’m confident, time will tell. I read somewhere on a HVAC forum that the system needs to be balanced to find the right dew point. Not just insulating pipes or changing the cabin filter

The one step Ineos or dealers may not have performed is the following steps which is key. Obviously some techs do which may be the reason why some HVAC are good and some are bad.

1. Following a purge procedure set out by Ineos
2. Wait till the following day once the engine is stone cold.
3. Prop open bonnet fully, check coolant levels in both hot and cold reservoirs.
4. Top up ensuring both are level with Max to ensure they are balanced.
5. Recheck coolant levels after a week on a cold engine to see it’s still level with Max in case anymore air has escaped. Top up if necessary to max.

If you purge the HVAC or bleed the brakes (for example), you must top up because you are replacing the lost air.

Only thing left are, it’s still slow to react (software). The high frequency shrill sound is still there on demist and fan 4. I suspect some kind of interference with something electrical.