Installation guide for Custom Offroad diff protectors (plus bash plates)

[TheDocAUS]

DRAFT

After installing the Custom Offroad Diff Protectors I drafted an install guide.



Read through all this Installation Guide before starting work. I suggest you install the front diff cover, then the rear diff cover.

INSTALLING THE FRONT DIFF PROTECTOR

• Remove the plastic bungs from the pre-drilled holes on the FRONT diff on your Grenadier or Quartermaster. Tip: long nose pliers work well to remove the plastic bungs.
• Ensure all threads in the pre-drilled holes are clean. Tip: using a metric tap can clean away any debris. Warning: in Australia, the fine red dust can get past the plastic bung and deposit enough dust to clog up the thread. A bung can also fall out, allowing debris into the thread.
• Remove the protective plastic from the diff cover.
• Two M12 bolts and two M10 bolts are used to secure the FRONT diff cover. Tip: have within reach the FRONT diff cover, the needed bolts and your 16mm and 18mm sockets/spanners.
• Get under the car. Orientate the FRONT diff cover so the two M10 bolts holes close together face towards the back of the car, the two M12 bolt holes face the front of the car.
• While holding the diff cover in place, take a M12 bolt, washer and split washer and hand-tighten the bolt in place. Leave plenty of play. Next hand-tighten the second M12 bolt, again allowing play. Tip: it is good practice to use a suitable anti galling lubricant like Tel-Gel on all bolt threads. Tel-Gel stops corrosion, galling and seizing. It is non-toxic.
• Next hand-tighten the two M10 bolts in place. You need some play to ensure you get all four bolts inserted.
• Align the diff protector. Now ensure the FRONT diff protector is pushed towards the rear of the car as far as possible to ensure the stabiliser bar does not touch the protector.
• Fully tighten all four bolts. Tip: suggested torque setting for the M12 bolts is 77Nm and the M10 bolts is 44Nm.

INSTALLING THE REAR DIFF PROTECTOR

• Remove the plastic bungs from the pre-drilled holes on the REAR diff on your Grenadier or Quartermaster. Tip: long nose pliers work well to remove the plastic bungs.
• Ensure all threads in the pre-drilled holes are clean.
• Remove the protective plastic from the diff cover.
• Four M10 bolts are used to secure the REAR diff cover. Tip: have within reach the REAR diff cover, the needed bolts and your 16mm socket.
• Get under the car. Orientate the REAR diff cover so the two M10 bolts holes close together face towards the front of the car.
• While holding the diff cover in place, take a M10 bolt, washer and split washer and hand-tighten the bolt in place. Leave plenty of play. Next hand-tighten the second M10 bolt, again allowing play. Tip: it is good practice to use a suitable anti galling lubricant on all bolt threads.
• Next hand-tighten the remaining two M10 bolts in place. You need some play to ensure you get all four bolts inserted.
• Once all bolts are hand-tightened and the diff cover aligned, fully tighten all bolts. Tip: suggested torque setting for the M10 bolts is 44Nm.

SUPPLIED PARTS
Front diff cover, with protective plastic in place
Rear diff cover, with protective plastic in place
M12 bolts x 2. Specs are M12 x 1.5 (thread) x 30mm (bolt length). Use the 18mm socket/spanner. They are metric bolts and threads.
M12 bolts x 6. Specs are M10 x 1.5 (thread) x 25mm (bolt length). Use the 16mm socket/spanner. They are metric bolts and threads.

TOOLS NEEDED
Long nose pliers (to remove the plastic bungs on the Grenadier/QM)
18mm socket/spanner (M12 bolts)
16mm socket/spanner (M10 bolts)
Torque wrench
A mat to lay on, while under the car
Anti-galling agent (if you wish)
Metric tap and dye set (if needed)

BASH PLATES
@DenisM has also written up some installation tips for the Custom Offload Bash Plates here.

 

[Jeffrey]

Thank you but this install is so easy instructions are not needed. Chase the tapped holes and insert four bolts. Game over.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Thank you but this install is so easy instructions are not needed. Chase the tapped holes and insert four bolts. Game over.

The Custom Offroad diff protectors had no instructions, not even bolt sizes or threads or what tools were needed. I would rather know and put together the needed tools before I get under the car, instead of making multiple trips.

Plus I had a contaminated thread, enough to stop the whole install and I had to buy a metric tap and dye set to fix it. It was surprising to see how little debris caused the problem (a stuck M12 bolt), plus how much debris ended up coming out of threads with bungs in place (fine red dust and some rust). To help others I posted the information.

People are free to ignore anything I post if they wish, but this forum is so useful because so many people have posted information.

 

[Tazzieman]

Pretty thorough installatrion guide!
I had to chase one of the front diff boltholes.
Today I ordered the trailing arm protection because I haven't spent anyting for at least a month.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Trailing arms are real easy.

 

[Tazzieman]

Trailing arms are real easy.

Yes, I've set aside 5 whole minutes next week. Including 1.5 to undo the packaging

 

[DenisM]

The Custom Offroad diff protectors had no instructions, not even bolt sizes or threads or what tools were needed. I would rather know and put together the needed tools before I get under the car, instead of making multiple trips.

Plus I had a contaminated thread, enough to stop the whole install and I had to buy a metric tap and dye set to fix it. It was surprising to see how little debris caused the problem (a stuck M12 bolt), plus how much debris ended up coming out of threads with bungs in place (fine red dust and some rust). To help others I posted the information.

People are free to ignore anything I post if they wish, but this forum is so useful because so many people have posted information.

https://www.customoffroad.com.au/product/bash-plates-for-ineos-grenadier-underbody-protection/

The bolts were provided in the pack ...simply matched bolts with spanners/sockets then got on with it....

 

[TheDocAUS]

https://www.customoffroad.com.au/product/bash-plates-for-ineos-grenadier-underbody-protection/

The bolts were provided in the pack ...simply matched bolts with spanners/sockets then got on with it....

I did not buy the bash plates, just the diff protectors and the trailing arm protectors. Did the bash plates have a Guide?

 

[DenisM]

I did not buy the bash plates, just the diff protectors and the trailing arm protectors. Did the bash plates have a Guide?

Indeed they did... the url above provides an engineering drawing with data required to install... look for "Download fitting diagram".

They're a little tricky and heavy. Install the sump guard before the TF case plate. Unless you have a hoist, find a box/plastic crate of sufficient height to lay the sump plate on, (so you won't have to lift it too high), then manoeuvre the box/crate into position.. I used a broom. You raise and then "rest" the aft edge of the sump guard on the "ledge" provided by the crossmember.
There are no threaded holes for the front bolts. Requires three hands.. one to raise the plate, one to hold the bolts in place and the third hand to screw on the washers and nuts!!
While fastening the front edge into position you need to keep in mind not to dislodge the plate from its 'tenuous' resting place on the rear crossmember..... !

(IIRC...I put the front bolts in place from the top and wedged them in with ptfe tape so that when I put upwards pressure on them "offering up" the plate and nuts and washers from underneath, the bolts didn't pop out of position . I put the nuts into a socket on the end of a thin extension with the washer on top and carefully screwed them a couple of turns just with fingers, no ratchet, so that the plate couldn't dislodge.... and cause a trip to the dentist...)
Don't tighten fully as yet. Use the slack in the front fasteners to manoeuvre (lift) the rear edge into position and fasten into place... then torque all fasteners to the DIY German Standard "guten tight"

The transfer case plate requires the LHS middle side step/rock slider (if fitted) bracket fasteners to be removed, simply install plate on top of the bracket holding the sidestep/rockslider and re-fasten. If there are no sidesteps/rocksliders, screw the supplied bolts into the threaded holes.

Laying on a cardboard sheet to slide around, I was able crawl under the Grenadier and install all 6 plates in about an hour including faffing about wondering where the "safe place" was where I'd last stored the ptfe tape, WD40 etc.

 

[weeman]

Did you find the steering stabilizer bar comes very close to the front diff bash plate?

The stabilizer bar can rotate back and forth a bit and when its rotated rearward I find I only have a few mm clearance to the front of the bash plate. This is with the bash plate mounted as far back as possible.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Did you find the steering stabilizer bar comes very close to the front diff bash plate?

The stabilizer bar can rotate back and forth a bit and when its rotated rearward I find I only have a few mm clearance to the front of the bash plate. This is with the bash plate mounted as far back as possible.

I will need to look at it. Nothing is hitting from he short drives I have done so far.

When I tighten bolts in 2 weeks, I will ensure the front diff protector is back as far as it can go.

 

[TheDocAUS]

ANTI-GALLING
The anti-galling product I used on the diff protector bolts was Tuf-Gel. I bought some when using stainless steel bolts on the Rhino roofrack when installing accessories.

Tel-Gel stops corrosion, galling and seizing. It is non-toxic, but it is not cheap to buy. It has an extended shelf life, so I probably will not need to but it again. Do it once, do it right.

View: https://youtu.be/i28si1ytOjE

 

[Rok_Dr]

ANTI-GALLING
The anti-galling product I used on the diff protector bolts was Tuf-Gel. I bought some when using stainless steel bolts on the Rhino roofrack when installing accessories.

Tel-Gel stops corrosion, galling and seizing. It is non-toxic, but it is not cheap to buy. It has an extended shelf life, so I probably will not need to but it again. Do it once, do it right.

View: https://youtu.be/i28si1ytOjE

I use a smear of Copper grease.