High beam connection for lightbar

[NQ94]

For those interested in triggering a relay from the high-beam headlight circuit, the high-beam wiring is VIOLET/ORANGE on the back of the headlights. My LP4's in the grill which replaced the stock aux. lights are now linked with the high-beam circuit. Super easy to flick on/off on rural roads. See attached.

Sorry, but T-Taps and scotch locks are a nightmare for external, under the bonnet/hood or for any wiring. They are the best way to cut strands and introduce green death (green corrosion) into the centre of a wire especially in highly corrosive environments like beach driving. There are more reliable splicing and joint sealing methods that will not give grief six months down the track.

 

[anand]

Sorry, but T-Taps and scotch locks are a nightmare for external, under the bonnet/hood or for any wiring. They are the best way to cut strands and introduce green death (green corrosion) into the centre of a wire especially in highly corrosive environments like beach driving. There are more reliable splicing and joint sealing methods that will not give grief six months down the track.

Seconding this... I'm 99% sure the connector is a generic 6 pin DT style, so I ordered a pair of pigtails and am just going to do a T-Harness; where 5 pins go straight through and the 6th (high/main beam) has a Y so I can run it to my SwitchPros

 

[n3qem]

Sorry, but T-Taps and scotch locks are a nightmare for external, under the bonnet/hood or for any wiring. They are the best way to cut strands and introduce green death (green corrosion) into the centre of a wire especially in highly corrosive environments like beach driving. There are more reliable splicing and joint sealing methods that will not give grief six months down the track.

should have pointed out that was a temp install until I could fabricate a waterproof Y. I knew someone would comment....

 

[Commodore]

Seconding this... I'm 99% sure the connector is a generic 6 pin DT style, so I ordered a pair of pigtails and am just going to do a T-Harness; where 5 pins go straight through and the 6th (high/main beam) has a Y so I can run it to my SwitchPros

I’m doing this install right now. Would you happen to have a link to the correct DT connector? I want to run the low beam off off Aux 1 and then trigger the high beam with the IG’s regular high beam.

 

[anand]

I’m doing this install right now. Would you happen to have a link to the correct DT connector? I want to run the low beam off off Aux 1 and then trigger the high beam with the IG’s regular high beam.

This is what I ordered, however, I have not confirmed fitment yet

 

[Commodore]

This is what I ordered, however, I have not confirmed fitment yet

I just did the wiring today and can confirm that the DT connector you linked works. I built a high/low lockout harness using two 5 pin relays. The low beams are triggered with Ext1 and the high beams are triggered with the high beam signal taken off of the headlight connector (violet/orange) using a Y harness built with two 6 pin DT connectors. None of this is difficult but making and testing the lockout harness is time consuming. I would suggest just buying the Baja Designs upfitter lockout harness and making your own headlight Y harness.

Happy to provide the design of the lockout harness if anyone wants to built their own.

 

[terdrocket]

For those interested in triggering a relay from the high-beam headlight circuit, the high-beam wiring is VIOLET/ORANGE on the back of the headlights. My LP4's in the grill which replaced the stock aux. lights are now linked with the high-beam circuit. Super easy to flick on/off on rural roads. See attached.

This Violet/Orange wire is a ground trigger, correct?

 

[Commodore]

This Violet/Orange wire is a ground trigger, correct?

It is a 12v positive trigger

 

[terdrocket]

It is a 12v positive trigger

Ok thank you. So many of the prewired kits that come with lights switch through relay ground with cheesy lighted switch.

 

[Commodore]

Ok thank you. So many of the prewired kits that come with lights switch through relay ground with cheesy lighted switch.

I built my own "lockout" harness with two relays. This keeps the lights from receiving power to both the low and high beams simultaneously. Happy to provide the schematic if you want it but honestly it is way easier just to purchase the upfitter lockout harness from Baja Designs. Its the same thing and by the time you purchase all the wire to DIY it isn't all that much more expensive. I happened to have wire and relays laying around from other projects.

 

[parb]

I just did the wiring today and can confirm that the DT connector you linked works. I built a high/low lockout harness using two 5 pin relays. The low beams are triggered with Ext1 and the high beams are triggered with the high beam signal taken off of the headlight connector (violet/orange) using a Y harness built with two 6 pin DT connectors. None of this is difficult but making and testing the lockout harness is time consuming. I would suggest just buying the Baja Designs upfitter lockout harness and making your own headlight Y harness.

Happy to provide the design of the lockout harness if anyone wants to built their own.

View attachment 7882957

View attachment 7882958

Would you mind sharing the pin out for the 14v positive trigger that I'll use for a relay? Especially which pin to take it from?
I was planning to make the harness over the week. I guess I can make it and just not put the pins in the connectors until ready but was hoping to pre make it all.

 

[Commodore]

Would you mind sharing the pin out for the 14v positive trigger that I'll use for a relay? Especially which pin to take it from?
I was planning to make the harness over the week. I guess I can make it and just not put the pins in the connectors until ready but was hoping to pre make it all.

It is the violet/orange wire as seen in the photo. I don't have a schematic to share but it is obvious from the photo.