HELP! anyone got any information on the front hub assembly? Mine is now in bits…..

[Tom D]

I broke a locking wheel nut a while ago and once the replacement stud arrived I drilled out the offending stud aand removed the wheel.
The front studs are press in so I had hoped i could simply knock the old one out and press the new one in. No such luck!
The studs hit the ABS ring on the way out so the only way to remove them is to remove the hub. I took off the tub cap and removed the retaining nut but the hub is on there solid.
As I don't have any diagrams I can’t figure out whether it just needs more force, or whether I need to remove something else… I can’t see that there is anything else to remove, the driveshaft / axle is free to move inside the splInes in the hub, but the hub feels very tight..

Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated..

Or even better a workshop manual LOL

 

[Cheshire cat]

I broke a locking wheel nut a while ago and once the replacement stud arrived I drilled out the offending stud aand removed the wheel.
The front studs are press in so I had hoped i could simply knock the old one out and press the new one in. No such luck!
The studs hit the ABS ring on the way out so the only way to remove them is to remove the hub. I took off the tub cap and removed the retaining nut but the hub is on there solid.
As I don't have any diagrams I can’t figure out whether it just needs more force, or whether I need to remove something else… I can’t see that there is anything else to remove, the driveshaft / axle is free to move inside the splInes in the hub, but the hub feels very tight..

Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated..

Or even better a workshop manual LOL

Hi Tom
Can your local dealer not show you the exploded diagrams on their system?

 

[landmannnn]

Here is a drawing from another post

 

[Tom D]

No Joy with Grange… Just trying Stirling Trailer centre

 

[Tom D]

Here is a drawing from another postView attachment 7893957

I dont believe thats the exact one, looks similar though. If thats the same design it should just come off now..

 

[Tom D]

STC just rang back to say that they aren’t authorised to give any information out…

Getting pretty pissed off now. I’m at the point where if I apply any more force to it I might damage the wheel bearing..

 

[Cheshire cat]

No Joy with Grange… Just trying Stirling Trailer centre

Halliwell Jones, also worth a call.

 

[landmannnn]

STC just rang back to say that they aren’t authorised to give any information out…

Getting pretty pissed off now. I’m at the point where if I apply any more force to it I might damage the wheel bearing..

I would say it is very likely to need a slide hammer.

 

[Tom D]

I’m taking the whole swivel hub off instead, then I’ll take the whole thing to a shop and get it done there. So far in order to change a broken wheel stud I have removed, the brake calliper, brake rotor, speed sensor, brackets for holding brake pipe, sensor wire and brake wear indicator, the steering rod and the tie bar. Going to tackle the kingpins tomorrow, They are tight too! But they are moving at least..

At least by the time its done I will know how it all works.

Good luck doing this by the side of the road in Africa though…

I also noticed my spring is broken…

 

[C-Mack]

It might be possible to remove the hub flange with a special puller “assuming” the assembly is designed to be serviced from the outward facing side of the knuckle. I bet dollars to donuts the bearing cartridge was pushed into the knuckle from the backside and the hub flange pushed inside the bearing from the frontside of the knuckle before the whole assembly was bolted to the axle.

In theory, it should be possible to remove the hub flange pulling outwards but if the bearing gets damaged in the process you’d have to pull the entire knuckle off in order to gain access to a large retaining clip on inward side of the knuckle retaining the bearing. It’s also possible the only way to pull the flange out is to have the knuckle off the vehicle anyway so you can use a puller tool like OTC Hub Grappler through the center bore of the flange. If that is indeed the case, it quickly turns into a much bigger job as you are now dealing with shimming and getting the correct pre-load on the two large knuckle joints to reassemble it all.

Not a very roadside friendly repair design compared to older LR hub and bearing setups. Hope you get it sorted and I wish IA or dealers would be a bit more helpful in providing schematics for those willing to do their own repairs.

 

[Tom D]

It might be possible to remove the hub flange with a special puller “assuming” the assembly is designed to be serviced from the outward facing side of the knuckle. I bet dollars to donuts the bearing cartridge was pushed into the knuckle from the backside and the hub flange pushed inside the bearing from the frontside of the knuckle before the whole assembly was bolted to the axle.

In theory, it should be possible to remove the hub flange pulling outwards but if the bearing gets damaged in the process you’d have to pull the entire knuckle off in order to gain access to a large retaining clip on inward side of the knuckle retaining the bearing. It’s also possible the only way to pull the flange out is to have the knuckle off the vehicle anyway so you can use a puller tool like OTC Hub Grappler through the center bore of the flange. If that is indeed the case, it quickly turns into a much bigger job as you are now dealing with shimming and getting the correct pre-load on the two large knuckle joints to reassemble it all.

Not a very roadside friendly repair design compared to older LR hub and bearing setups. Hope you get it sorted and I wish IA or dealers would be a bit more helpful in providing schematics for those willing to do their own repairs.

Thanks, I have removed similar knuckle joints on tractors before, there’s usually some shims in there.. I’m not sure what I’ll find inside these. I’m going to have to remove the whole thing now as I am going to bust up the flange something rotten hammering away at it. It hasn’t moved at all. Plus I clipped the ABS ring with the hammer so I’ll need to straighten that out too!
I found a Cararro manual on line for some of their tractor axles and instructions involved heating external components and freezing the bearings to get them in, so clearly they are a tight fit.

The issue is that if I need any additional parts I could be waiting another month given the terrible distribution issues we seem to have here.. I’m fairly sure it will be an SKF bearing so if I can get a part number off it I might be able to find one sooner…
If I find an SKF part number I’ll be sure to post it here…

I though this would be a half hour job LOL…

All because of a broken knocking wheel nut… It would have been a lot less hassle if someone just stole the wheels.