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Heater issues - not directly air con

The audible wind whistle noise is when the the blend doors are stuck on between two functions (face and feet) and flaps not closing properly (as if something is stuck). I very occasionally get this. Goes away when I go manual and give it a blast.

But topping up coolant to max on both reservoirs making sure they are balanced has made a big improvement. Heater is hot very quickly and no more condensation.
I don’t believe it’s coolant related for me because while the front face has weak heat, the rear vents has extreme hot air. Plus, I checked the high and low coolant. They are at the proper level.

The control system for the hvac is a terrible mess. IA employed a dipsht team of quality assurance people
 
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I don’t believe it’s coolant related for me because while the front face has weak heat, the rear vents has extreme hot air. Plus, I checked the high and low coolant. They are at the proper level.

The control system for the hvac is a terrible mess. IA employed a dipsht team of quality assurance peole
I agree it’s not a good start. Stay with it. I had the same issues as you and eventually with a bit of trial and error, it’s fixed. I had a software reset, coolant purged at the dealers before I refilled the coolant after checking its low.
 
I agree it’s not a good start. Stay with it. I had the same issues as you and eventually with a bit of trial and error, it’s fixed. I had a software reset, coolant purged at the dealers before I refilled the coolant after checking its low.
So while on face mode only, you are able to get hot hair out of the front vents, while in manual fan modes?
 
So while on face mode only, you are able to get hot hair out of the front vents, while in manual fan modes?
Yes is the answer to your question.

In auto mode, default at cold start up, heat goes to feet first. Around 5/10 minutes when vehicle is warm, heat switches to face and feet. I get hot air going to rear, feet and face however not at the same blower strength. Previously I get warm air to the rear and face but cold air to feet. Since filling coolant to both reservoirs to max level, things have improved a lot. I have also had the system bleed by the dealers. I plan on checking the coolant again in a few weeks to see if there any changes.

In manual mode, I get warm air going to all settings. However not at the same strength again, it varies.

There does seem to be a sticky/leaky blend door between face and feet as very occasionally it whistles and this may explain blower strength varying (drop in pressure due to blend door leak)

It has fixed the condensation build up when raining heavily and condensation on freezing cold morning clears up quicker using demist. I have yet to test for condensation drips on a hot humid day.

I always start the car by turning the ignition half way and waiting for all dashboard light to turn off before starting.

It’s getting better with age as things are starting to wear in.
 
제 그레나디어는 발판으로 공기를 전혀 보내지 않는 징후를 보이고, 대시보드 통풍구와 윈드스크린은 괜찮지만, 발판을 선택하면 소음이 약간 증가하고 발로 향하는 공기가 추가로 공급되지 않습니다. 이제 날씨가 추워지고 있어서 문제가 되었습니다. (딜러와 저는 모두 새로운 소프트웨어가 문제를 해결해 줄 것이라고 기대했지만, 그럴 리는 없습니다).

저는 딜러와 상의했고 해당 차량은 12월에 조사를 위해 예약되어 있습니다. 이런 상황을 경험한 분이 계신가요?


Same as here !

I don’t believe it’s coolant related for me because while the front face has weak heat, the rear vents has extreme hot air. Plus, I checked the high and low coolant. They are at the proper level.

The control system for the hvac is a terrible mess. IA employed a dipsht team of quality assurance people
 
To update this as I got my Grenadier back from the supplying dealer this lunchtime, the heater now directs warm air to my feet on demand. From the warranty work sheets, which Jason would only read out, not let me see, it was a multi-stage process. involving ringing Lee at Ineos Automotive several times for suggestions.

1. Reset software. Let vehicle go to sleep, restart and test heater (Fail)
2. Check and top up both high and low tempreture cooling circuits, (add 400ml to the high tempreture circuit as it was low).
Let vehicle go to sleep, restart and test heater (Fail)
3. Reset software, Let vehicle go to sleep, restart and test heater (Fail)
4. Turn heater tempreture past 27C, (just before max). Let vehicle go to sleep, restart and test heater (Pass!)

My suggestion for anyone suffering is start the vehicle, turn the heater up to 27C. Turn the vehicle off, lock it and walk away for 20 minutes. Come back to it and take a spirited drive to warm it through; hopefully you'll have toasty feet. Failing that, it's a dealer job!
My HVAC issue is slightly different but just as troubling. I’m able to get hot air at the feet but there is no way to adjust the temperature of the air. When you turn the thermostat towards cooler air, nothing changes - still the same very hot air. At some point (and that changes each time) the air switches over to completely cool. S on a cold day you are either burning up in the cabin or freezing. There is no in-between. If anyone has a. Suggested solution, please let me now.
 
My HVAC issue is slightly different but just as troubling. I’m able to get hot air at the feet but there is no way to adjust the temperature of the air. When you turn the thermostat towards cooler air, nothing changes - still the same very hot air. At some point (and that changes each time) the air switches over to completely cool. S on a cold day you are either burning up in the cabin or freezing. There is no in-between. If anyone has a. Suggested solution, please let me now.
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/heat-1st-setting.12417705/#post-1333320549

Likely the system needs bled.
 
I've done all the usual things suggested by others but can't tell if it's worked until our Winter kicks in again ion a few months - air conditioning works a treat but the fans howl loudly!

This was with the temperature cranked up to the max.

Grenadier HVAC.jpg
 
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