Diesel Engine cooling noise diesel

[Jean Mercier]

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Joking aside, this is indeed a huge current. With new batteries OK, but once your battery get's older this could mean a sudden death!

 

[Tomdoc]

This is it's inspiration:

 

[MACS]

It is the DPF cleaning/burnout routine.
Kat is next to the engine. So a lot of cooling needs to be brought to the exhaust.

 

[Miki]

This is it's inspiration:




View attachment 7824803

Good point, with the fans running flat out the car will weigh less

 

[NQ94]

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Seems very high current for just an electric fan. Is there an electric water pump also operating? Can the current draw be confirmed with a shunt or an amp clamp type multimeter?

 

[bigleonski]

Any chance you can add some context and or detail to that ?
On it's own that picture is just pure sensationalism and makes no sense whatsoever.

You think so? I got the context without much effort.

Ah well, any excuse for a DCPU dig I suppose hey.

 

[KDJDGrenadier]

Anyone here who thinks that this is an adequate cooling sound?

Normal apparently. Same as an X5 I am told. For me it doesn't happen all the time, just every now and then. I have driven around 1500km and it has happened 2 times

 

[jert]

Ok, adding the behaviour of my funny car with regards to noisy cooling fans. Looks like it somehow is linked to some outside temp. measurements and wrong interpretation of it (mainly sw-problem ?)
-not heard/read of this specific behaviour before and curious if anybody else experiencing the same-

Situation A: outside temp between like 10-20°C, no noisy fans, AC working just as expected

Situation B: outside temp between like 22-30°C, no AC! + fans making some crazy noise while driving (center fan on max rotation + front right fan)

If I try to switch on AC in situation B, LED indicates it is on (AUTO will not work) and when I increase internal blower speed, I get some really hot air
to my face or my feet or both (depending on what I choose). And by hot air I'm not talking about outside temp., I talk like 50°C!
When I stop the car, main fan stops within seconds, front right fans continuing for 25-30 seconds before stopping as well.

Disconnecting battery does not solve the problem and car has shown Situation A and Situation B multiple times since I picked up the car 10 days ago.

Any ideas ? Very welcome.

 

[NQ94]

Anyone here who thinks that this is an adequate cooling sound?

Ok, adding the behaviour of my funny car with regards to noisy cooling fans. Looks like it somehow is linked to some outside temp. measurements and wrong interpretation of it (mainly sw-problem ?)
-not heard/read of this specific behaviour before and curious if anybody else experiencing the same-

Situation A: outside temp between like 10-20°C, no noisy fans, AC working just as expected

Situation B: outside temp between like 22-30°C, no AC! + fans making some crazy noise while driving (center fan on max rotation + front right fan)

If I try to switch on AC in situation B, LED indicates it is on (AUTO will not work) and when I increase internal blower speed, I get some really hot air
to my face or my feet or both (depending on what I choose). And by hot air I'm not talking about outside temp., I talk like 50°C!
When I stop the car, main fan stops within seconds, front right fans continuing for 25-30 seconds before stopping as well.

Disconnecting battery does not solve the problem and car has shown Situation A and Situation B multiple times since I picked up the car 10 days ago.

Any ideas ? Very welcome.

The cooling fans will be operated by the engine ECU and will rely on multiple temperature sensor inputs from the engine and other components to determine fan on or off modes. The air conditioning refrigerant may be low from a leak. Have the a/c checked at the dealer.

 

[jert]

The cooling fans will be operated by the engine ECU and will rely on multiple temperature sensor inputs from the engine and other components to determine fan on or off modes. The air conditioning refrigerant may be low from a leak. Have the a/c checked at the dealer.

A/C works just fine (cooling down quickly) as soon as the outside temp. is below a specific value + A/C working or not working is clearly linked to the behaviour of the fans or vice versa. Dealer is informed and will check at next visit.
Just curious if others experienced a similar behaviour.

 

[bemax]

Seems very high current for just an electric fan. Is there an electric water pump also operating? Can the current draw be confirmed with a shunt or an amp clamp type multimeter?

It might not only be the cooling fan but the heating of the cat to burn the ashes that draws the current. Or am I wrong with this assumption?

 

[ECrider]

Anyone here who thinks that this is an adequate cooling sound?

tower: come in foxtrot alpha romeo tango, you're clear for takeoff...

 

[Miki]

You think so? I got the context without much effort.

Then you are a lot more perceptive than I am @bigleonski cos I still don't.
Whose car was it ?
What was happening at the time ?
What could be drawing over 100A ?

The winch ?
[ I would subscribe to that, and if it is, then that's interesting. I thought the engine needed to be running so the alternator should be sharing the load.
Does this mean that the current all flows through the starter battery and the IBS can't sum the incoming current ? ]

Is the suggestion that the fans draw that much current ?
Just a joke perhaps because (it's a funny noise) ? [I struggle with that concept to be fair, it's not funny at all, it's a problem to some].
Perhaps the BMW IBS isn't reporting reality ?
Perhaps it is and it's another software glitch ?

Sensationalism = presenting in a way that is intended to provoke interest or excitement, at the expense of accuracy.
Why is that 'having a dig' ?
Isn't posting content that generates discussion and peer response what a forum is all about ?

 

[NQ94]

A/C works just fine (cooling down quickly) as soon as the outside temp. is below a specific value + A/C working or not working is clearly linked to the behaviour of the fans or vice versa. Dealer is informed and will check at next visit.
Just curious if others experienced a similar behaviour.

From your explanations it is a very common fault we have in northern Australia during summer 35°C to 45°C. A/C good in the morning then bad by midday. It generally ends with low gas or the condensor being blocked or having restricted cooling flow. The A/C is an input to the ECU that controls the engine electric fans in most integrated a/c systems after that the a/c low and high pressure switches will also assist in controlling a switched fan.

 

[jert]

From your explanations it is a very common fault we have in northern Australia during summer 35°C to 45°C. A/C good in the morning then bad by midday. It generally ends with low gas or the condensor being blocked or having restricted cooling flow. The A/C is an input to the ECU that controls the engine electric fans in most integrated a/c systems after that the a/c low and high pressure switches will also assist in controlling a switched fan.

Thanks a ton for the explanation, will take that info to the dealer.

 

[Stu_Barnes]

View attachment 7824785

Late to the game on this one but is that the draw of the coolant system at rest?

I'm assuming it was after a pretty hard run to shed that heat soak, but still, any idea the other things that were causing the draw?

 

[Stu_Barnes]

@DCPU just saw your post 45, about this being a short low speed drive, any chance you can have a look at the fuse rating for the engine fans?

Over 100 Amps still seems a lot to me.

 

[Orcmurd]

I lost c. 10% battery SOC whilst the DPF regen ran once I parked up. Had similar sounds from my 3 litre diesel BMW, so I believe the noice whilst excessive, is normal for the engine. I suspect that the regen generally happens whilst the engine is running on a longer journey and people may not be aware of it.

 

[neuf11]

I lost c. 10% battery SOC whilst the DPF regen ran once I parked up.

. . . same here.

Up to now 2 regenerations, at 500 km and 1.000 km odo. Battery drawn from 97 to 88 %, therefore approximately 10 Ah. So, 100 A (* 6 mins) could be the real current strength.

 

[DCPU]

@DCPU just saw your post 45, about this being a short low speed drive, any chance you can have a look at the fuse rating for the engine fans?

The saga is covered in full here:
Post in thread 'Main fuses used in INEOS Grenadier' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/main-fuses-used-in-ineos-grenadier.12411958/post-1333184871

Short answer I've been told by my agent, it's one of these two fuses:
"one fuse goes to the power steering pump and other cooling fan number 1 relay 3."

As to the fuse rating, I received this response:
"When checking for procedures, there is only one for replacing the whole unit, not for replacing the fuses. They don’t list those fuses on parts catalogue.

Would leave me to believe if there was issue with these fuses under warranty, they would want INEOS trained technicians to replace the unit, then the unit would be returned to INEOS to investigate the cause of the fault."

When I said I'd check the fuse ratings for myself, what was the official procedure for accessing them given the very limited access, I got this response:
"I am not able to give to out the procedure, as to gain access you would need to use a dealer login. These cables are high voltage and only INEOS trained technicians should be working on them, as if any damage caused by untrained person could avoid the warranty."

So a complete failure on the technical support approach, which just leaves the physical dismantling of the vehicle to access them.

That's on a list...