Dashcam Experiences/Recommendations Anybody?

[bakepl]

Ah! that's a great idea....mind you, (remembering this is a family forum) I might just say I couldn't ignore the irony of the above with the thought that next week I have an appointment with a man welding an endoscope ... told me not to worry I'd be asleep .... too much information?

Ah yes have same coming up... but way I see it...far better than going to the dentist and I'll wake up to a cuppa t and sandwich

 

[Cheshire cat]

@bakepl and @Clark Kent
thankyou for the "how to"..much appreciated! With the Gren. the grommet into the base of the door seems to be a shrink fit onto the loom and there's no room for another wire let alone one with a small connector attached. I note one other member of the forum faced a similar issue and ended up mounting the camera IIRC externally on the roof!
I hadn't thought about the trimmer line as a fish tape... I'll give that a go )
cheers and thank again
D.

That was me. Tried everything but couldn’t get a clean install onto the rear door. Very happy with my decision to place on the roof. Seems to work very well and wires are virtually, completely hidden.

 

[Clark Kent]

Ah yes have same coming up... but way I see it...far better than going to the dentist and I'll wake up to a cuppa t and sandwich

Where's @Tazzieman when we need some questionable medical humour?
(Our son is an advanced care Paramedic. We get his medical humour a lot!)

 

[DenisM]

Victory! Thankyou for the advice...
I finally discovered that a squirt of quick dry silicon lube into the concertina connection tube made all the difference!

 

[Cheshire cat]

Victory! Thankyou for the advice...
I finally discovered that a squirt of quick dry silicon lube into the concertina connection tube made all the difference!
View attachment 7828240View attachment 7828241View attachment 7828241
View attachment 7828241

I can’t quite see well enough to determine if the wire is running completely through the concertina tube. Ie. Will it come through the hole in the rear body into which the tube is inserted? If so, bloody good effort.

 

[DenisM]

I can’t quite see well enough to determine if the wire is running completely through the concertina tube. Ie. Will it come through the hole in the rear body into which the tube is inserted? If so, bloody good effort.

Hi Cheshire Cat,
Yes and Yes...thank you! The cable enters the tube from the body with the rest of the loom and rear washer supply tube but exits a few mm from the loom outlet at the other end, but well within the boundaries of the grommet, so it's sealed.

I pulled the concertina tube from the body and the bottom of the back door. I pushed/manipulated a wire probe ( thin coat hanger wire with one end bent a full 180deg backwards 10mm from the end so that it presented a smooth surface to push through the tube) from the vehicle body end through the concertina tube until it was pushing firmly against a "soft" wall section of the grommet housing adjacent to the loom "outlet". I was then able to carefully probe that area of external wall with an "exacto" / scalpel blade until I felt it cutting against the wire probe... this way I was able to be sure I wasn't cutting into the wiring loom inside. I enlarged the cut and pulled the wire through.
I put a couple of short squirts of silicon dry lube into the tube from both ends.
I reinserted the wire probe -rounded end first- and manipulated it back in the opposite direction , attached the coax connector to the rounded head with cloth tape in such a way that there were no sharp edges. I then slowly pulled the wire probe back through the tube manipulating it to clear the wiring loom and rear windscreen washer supply tube. The silicon spray was amazing and the coax connector virtually slid through the cable and popped out through the small slit previously made with the exacto blade! I was then able to pull the coax freely either in either direction. I pulled a sufficient length of cable (plus a bit!) through the tube to position the camera, then fed the wire probe up through the hole in the bottom of the door to draw the cable though. With a little spray around the edges of each grommet end, they popped back into place.
I sheathed the cable in the door with 7mm split conduit ("loom tube"). I'd noted the advice elsewhere here and purchased an optional 10m coax. I'll gather the excess, bind it and stow it under the panel covering the wheel arches. Tomorrow I'll reassemble the interior....
I have no garage access at the moment. I am working on the vehicle in sunny Queensland weather while it is parked across my driveway. Our narrow street is about 200m long with only one entry/exit. The neighbours on their daily walks are bemused that I would pull the panels out of a brand new vehicle... and do I know where all the bits go when I reassemble it? I explain that it was designed to be "adapted"...
I do not intend to make a living as an accessories fitter

 

[Clark Kent]

Hi Cheshire Cat,
Yes and Yes...thank you! The cable enters the tube from the body with the rest of the loom and rear washer supply tube but exits a few mm from the loom outlet at the other end, but well within the boundaries of the grommet, so it's sealed.

I pulled the concertina tube from the body and the bottom of the back door. I pushed/manipulated a wire probe ( thin coat hanger wire with one end bent a full 180deg backwards 10mm from the end so that it presented a smooth surface to push through the tube) from the vehicle body end through the concertina tube until it was pushing firmly against a "soft" wall section of the grommet housing adjacent to the loom "outlet". I was then able to carefully probe that area of external wall with an "exacto" / scalpel blade until I felt it cutting against the wire probe... this way I was able to be sure I wasn't cutting into the wiring loom inside. I enlarged the cut and pulled the wire through.
I put a couple of short squirts of silicon dry lube into the tube from both ends.
I reinserted the wire probe -rounded end first- and manipulated it back in the opposite direction , attached the coax connector to the rounded head with cloth tape in such a way that there were no sharp edges. I then slowly pulled the wire probe back through the tube manipulating it to clear the wiring loom and rear windscreen washer supply tube. The silicon spray was amazing and the coax connector virtually slid through the cable and popped out through the small slit previously made with the exacto blade! I was then able to pull the coax freely either in either direction. I pulled a sufficient length of cable (plus a bit!) through the tube to position the camera, then fed the wire probe up through the hole in the bottom of the door to draw the cable though. With a little spray around the edges of each grommet end, they popped back into place.
I sheathed the cable in the door with 7mm split conduit ("loom tube"). I'd noted the advice elsewhere here and purchased an optional 10m coax. I'll gather the excess, bind it and stow it under the panel covering the wheel arches. Tomorrow I'll reassemble the interior....
I have no garage access at the moment. I am working on the vehicle in sunny Queensland weather while it is parked across my driveway. Our narrow street is about 200m long with only one entry/exit. The neighbours on their daily walks are bemused that I would pull the panels out of a brand new vehicle... and do I know where all the bits go when I reassemble it? I explain that it was designed to be "adapted"...
I do not intend to make a living as an accessories fitter

Great work @DenisM.
You should share some of those tips with Dr Endo next week

 

[klarie]

Now its on me choosing a Dashcam.. read a lot on topics.
the registration plate recognition is less of a topic - in all occasions I required this my current Vantrue N2 provided sufficient results.
As the camera remains where it is - and if I decide to sell the Discovery the cam will be moved in to the road vehicle.
So I currently considering 3 cameras:
Wolfbox G900
Pro:
used as Mirror and so increase rear sight capability.
Cam direct in mirror and so avoiding additional devices attached on windscreen
Con:
not most recent technology
If fitted using straps on existing mirror vibration might occur and result in unusable recording.
Open Question must it be fitted on the existing mirror or can it be attached directly on existing mirror base replacing existing mirror.

Vantrue Nexus featuring Sony Starvis 2
Pro
Newest technology
Screen on front device, simplifying adjustment.
Con
Device need to be attached to windscreen.

VIOFO A139 Pro2 CH featuring Sony Starvis 2
Pro
Newest technology
Best registration recognition
Con
No control screen on front device
Device need to be attached to windscreen.

All need to be hardwired and so need some installation effort -
at the moment no decision yet..

 

[Cheshire cat]

Now its on me choosing a Dashcam.. read a lot on topics.
the registration plate recognition is less of a topic - in all occasions I required this my current Vantrue N2 provided sufficient results.
As the camera remains where it is - and if I decide to sell the Discovery the cam will be moved in to the road vehicle.
So I currently considering 3 cameras:
Wolfbox G900
Pro:
used as Mirror and so increase rear sight capability.
Cam direct in mirror and so avoiding additional devices attached on windscreen
Con:
not most recent technology
If fitted using straps on existing mirror vibration might occur and result in unusable recording.
Open Question must it be fitted on the existing mirror or can it be attached directly on existing mirror base replacing existing mirror.

Vantrue Nexus featuring Sony Starvis 2
Pro
Newest technology
Screen on front device, simplifying adjustment.
Con
Device need to be attached to windscreen.

VIOFO A139 Pro2 CH featuring Sony Starvis 2
Pro
Newest technology
Best registration recognition
Con
No control screen on front device
Device need to be attached to windscreen.

All need to be hardwired and so need some installation effort -
at the moment no decision yet..

Regarding the Wolfbox:
I am going to order the bracket and see if I can modify the mirror. The trouble with strapping it to the original mirror is not vibration (At least in my experience), but the wired connections do not clear the 'Airbag' warning and so you can not use the Wolfbox as a conventional mirror, should you wish to.

 

[klarie]

Regarding the Wolfbox:
I am going to order the bracket and see if I can modify the mirror. The trouble with strapping it to the original mirror is not vibration (At least in my experience), but the wired connections do not clear the 'Airbag' warning and so you can not use the Wolfbox as a conventional mirror, should you wish to.

Thank you, - this is a bit of a knock out criteria. I wanted a secondary rear view in low ankle, when I maneuver with a basket on tow ball. When reversing its no problem with the rear camera but no mirror can show me what is exacly going on in the very low rear area.

 

[bakepl]

Regarding the Wolfbox:
I am going to order the bracket and see if I can modify the mirror. The trouble with strapping it to the original mirror is not vibration (At least in my experience), but the wired connections do not clear the 'Airbag' warning and so you can not use the Wolfbox as a conventional mirror, should you wish to.

Yes there are brackets for the mirror type cameras including Wolfbox that replace the original mirror (rather than rubber straps)... just need to work out how to remove the ineos mirror to see what the mount is on the glass so it can be matched up.... any ideas?

 

[Cheshire cat]

Yes there are brackets for the mirror type cameras including Wolfbox that replace the original mirror (rather than rubber straps)... just need to work out how to remove the ineos mirror to see what the mount is on the glass so it can be matched up.... any ideas?

Already done that. Was shown the method on the 3d workshop manual at my local dealer. The end nearest the windscreen needs to be twisted 90 degrees anti clockwise and it comes away leaving a steel component bonded to the windscreen. Peugeot have the same set up. Tried it with my arthritic hands with no success. Will make more effort or use a pipe grip wrapped in cloth so as to leave no teeth marks.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Today I finished mounting my cheap Chinese “Wolfbox” alike rear mirror.

I got most of my inspiration from the previous posts in this thread, especially for the cabling towards the rear in the posts of @bakepl and the explanation and pictures of @DenisM . I will repeat part of their explanation.

Therefore, apart from some “own” details or small improvements, everything has been posted before.

These are the steps:

1. Power: As said before in another post I powered the “mirror” through the INT1 connector, see this post (and why I chose this way of powering): https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...adier-today.12411127/page-121#post-1333249485
2. I dismounted all the trims of my bigger back door, see the pictures in this thread: https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...adier-today.12411127/page-123#post-1333250964
3. I dismounted the fixation part of my camera, because I wanted to stick it to the trim with double sided adhesive
   
   
4. I made a hole in the upper trim part of the rear window slightly bigger than the wire, because of the slightly bigger diameter of the camera connector
   
   
   (the Velcro is the remaining of my temporary install).
5. I made two more holes in the upper trim for the video cable.
   
   
6. I mounted the upper trim back on the door (forgot to take a picture)
7. I forgot to measure the lengths, but I cut the cable of the mirror (I think it was 1m40)
8. I made (very carefully) a hole in the cable grommet under the wiper motor and pushed my video cable in the hole. While drilling the hole (very slow drilling) I did put my finger under the grommet to feel where I was drilling. Due to the drilling speed, I was not afraid for my finger (I prefer to explain this, because otherwise a very known doctor will explain how he can amputate my finger ). I did put afterwards (at the very end before putting the trim back in place) some Sikalastomer around and in the hole.
   
   
9. I dismounted the tube around wiring loom under the door at both ends. In the left end, there is some loose space, where you could push some more wires, In the right end, NO WAY, not visible on the picture, but everything is supper tight. Yes, some water was dripping out of the tube! Strange!
   
   
   
10. I made a hole like @bakepl and @DenisM . On the (not very neat) picture you perceive the very tight wiring tube/loom out let, and the only place where you can drill a hole and push a wire in it. Very delicate operation: take your time!
    Then I attached my video cable to the eye at the right side of the tube and pulled it through. I also used silicone lubricant to pull the wire in the tube and around the loom! (typo in picture above, will not correct ).
    
    
11. I had to put new connectors at both “cut” ends of my video cable (had bought some, some months ago). Perhaps not the most suitable ones, but it worked. I could then test the working of the camera.
    
    
    Funny was that when testing I had a blue image of my rear camera. I was swearing because I thought I did something wrong. Until I remembered that I forgot to connect the connectors in the rear door.
    
12. I straightened the video cable in the rear door, strapped it to the other wire and “water tube” loom, did put the grommets of the tube of the back door back in place, and could mount back my trim parts. The trim parts of the window have some clips that are not the ”standard” Ineos clips. But even with the reference I didn’t find them on Internet. Two were damaged.
    
    

OK, that was Yesterday. Today I routed the video cable from the mirror to the back of the car. That will be next post.

Any comments are welcome. As said, most of these thing were copying ideas of other, therefore thank you fellow forum members.

 

[DenisM]

Does the Wolfbox provide a "normal" (= flat) mirror image to enable more accurate judgement of distances rather than the dangerous convex mirror images which suggest a following vehicle is further away than it really is. I've come to the conclusion that many ignorant drivers operate on these false distances...which is why they cut in front when there's minimal space to do so

 

[DaveB]

Does the Wolfbox provide a "normal" (= flat) mirror image to enable more accurate judgement of distances rather than the dangerous convex mirror images which suggest a following vehicle is further away than it really is. I've come to the conclusion that many ignorant drivers operate on these false distances...which is why they cut in front when there's minimal space to do so

Some people seem to drive with blinkers on their eyes or don't even look.
I try to drive as smoothly as possible particularly when changing lanes.
If I see someone who wants/needs to change into my lane i am happy to tap the brakes and let them in just so everyone's day goes peacefully and smoothly.
Conversely I have put on my indicator to move over, when there is sufficient space, only to have some idiot accelerate to block me, flash their lights and honk their horns.
Honestly it takes a lot more effort and ire to do all that than to have someone move over in front of you.
The same when merging onto the motorway, move over to let them on or slow down/speed up.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Let's continue my previous post:

Wiring front to back

I got some inspiration of quite some others, see also the video of @grnamin at this place https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/wolf-box.12414017/page-7#post-1333248407

I don’t have that many pictures, forgot to take more because I was in a hurry (darkness falling - yesterday)

1. I did push the video wire from the mirror under the right side or passenger roof trim (Left Hand Side driving), also (like @grnamin) with some tape around the wire to make the diameter wider so that the wire doesn’t fall out of the trim. (I hesitated to push through the roof trim backwards, but there are curtain airbags there, therefore I didn’t. To do that, you should dismount the roof trim, and place the wire above the curtain airbags)
2. Then I pushed it through the right-hand side pilar down (A-pilar)
3. But I detached the lower part of the pilar (behind this one you can find the INT2 auxiliary power point)
4. I removed the plastic piece protecting the Ineos cable loom
   
5. I did strap the video cable to the Ineos wiring loom (only one tie on the picture above, but I placed more)
6. I also removed the plastic piece protecting the Ineos cable loom at the right-side rear passenger door
   
   
   (The shiny black cable on the cable loom is my video extension cable, see explanation in bullet point 8)
7. I wanted to remove the lower trim piece of the right-side passenger door, but you first have to remove the piece above it (only clipped), and then you can remove the lower one (clipped and screws); (pillar B)
   
   
   
   
8. BUT, when I bought my camera I thought a video cable of 6m would be long enough. Because of the many curves and up and downs, it was about 1.5 m too short. Therefore, I had to make an extension, and again connectors. The connecting point was placed in the B-pillar, attached to another wiring loom.
   
   
   This was placed high enough to avoid getting wet!
9. I could then continue to route my video cable along the Ineos cable loom
10. My rear trim panel was already dismounted (there are several posts on the forum about dismounting it
11. That’s the final result in the rear (still had to cut the straps).
    
    The extension cable (shiny black) was recuperation of my ARB compressor remains.

Happy with my job, but here the negative points:

• Not able to rotate the camera anymore. Would have liked it rotated slightly downward, but can be solved easily.
• Adhesive of the rear camera isn’t standing the repetitive slamming of the door. Can also be solved easily.
• Two connection points instead of only one if my cable had been longer! More difficult to solve (time consuming); but doesn't affect the quality,

 

[grnamin]

• Not able to rotate the camera anymore. Would have liked it rotated slightly downward, but can be solved easily.

Jean, didn't the camera kit come with a hinged bracket?

• Adhesive of the rear camera isn’t standing the repetitive slamming of the door. Can also be solved easily.

The double stick tape that came with my camera wouldn't stick properly to a cold surface. I had to heat the surface with a hairdryer first.

 

[Jean Mercier]

• Not able to rotate the camera anymore. Would have liked it rotated slightly downward, but can be solved easily.

Jean, didn't the camera kit come with a hinged bracket?

Yes, but I removed it, see my other post.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Does the Wolfbox provide a "normal" (= flat) mirror image to enable more accurate judgement of distances rather than the dangerous convex mirror images which suggest a following vehicle is further away than it really is. I've come to the conclusion that many ignorant drivers operate on these false distances...which is why they cut in front when there's minimal space to do so

I don't know for the Wolfbox, but indeed in my "electronic rear mirror", vehicles following me seem to be further away. I always double check with my left or right side mirrors,

 

[DaveB]

It seems like a lot of work, time and cost for something that is only needed if you reverse into tight spaces a lot.
If that is the case then correct depth or distance would seem to be very important.
I use the side mirrors for reversing and then the standard reversing camera if I am backing into a space with a wall or a vehicle behind.
I don't use the rear vision mirror very often as I regularly have high loads in the back.
I am also used to driving vans/light trucks etc that don't have a rear vision mirror.
Then again it is, your vehicle, your time, your money and your workload so I guess that also makes it your choice.