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Dashcam Experiences/Recommendations Anybody?

klarie

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Just purchasing something does usually not work out. It must (like the Grenadier) fit for purpose.
What do I want to achieve with it?
Taxi drivers just want the front cam (collision and perhaps speeding ticket accusation) and inside cam on perhaps unruly pax.
The rear cam is in town of less importance because in most cases the topic is obvious to be resolved.

Long distance / and frequent travellers may need a front and a rear cam.
with park surveillance perhaps 360 degrees. - but the latter is almost impossible.
Also sufficient frames per sec, good lenses and night vision capability. - + 4k to capture details such as a registration.
But that doesn't help if your windows in car are dirty.

At the end its quite some investigation the get one that will meet own requirements.

There is plenty of information in the Internet - but it takes a while to find out what will be suitable for the intended purpose.
- I did some research but mine works fine for me. (for now) However in the meantime technology has evolved and so Grenadier will perhaps get a more recent one with improved capability.
 

HorstVoll

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Intended to fit standard front/rear dashcam but ended up replacing rear view mirror with clip over electronic version that has dashcam built in (front and rear).

Also have rear camera on van for viewing when towing.

Works well, rear would have been better without the privacy glass as a little dark but clear enough. Wolfbox G840S + optional rear cam B09Q84NBFN.

View attachment 7827184View attachment 7827185
View attachment 7827186

Did you route the cable of the rear camera via the cable channel at the bottom of the door? If so, was the cable long enough or did you have to order the cable extension kit?

I will get one of the Wolfbox mirrors as well and also have the privacy glass. Is there maybe any possibility to tune up the brightness of the rear camera only to compensate the tinted glass?
 

Cheshire cat

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Did you route the cable of the rear camera via the cable channel at the bottom of the door? If so, was the cable long enough or did you have to order the cable extension kit?

I will get one of the Wolfbox mirrors as well and also have the privacy glass. Is there maybe any possibility to tune up the brightness of the rear camera only to compensate the tinted glass?
Hi HorstVoll
Yes. I routed the cable as you suggested. Unfortunately, it was about half a metre too short so I ordered the extended cable which would be long enough for a bus!! I tried mounting the rear cable on the inside of the rear window however, I couldn't route the cable through the flexible hose and into the rear door. I ended up placing the rear camera on the roof in a central position. There is then enough room to route the cable between two sections of plastic and down into the door seal. This seemed to me a much tidier solution and allows me to tow a trailer with a mini digger, and still see behind me.
I am happy with the Wolfbox but even though the picture is good, it is not like a real mirror. When I have time I want to remove the original mirror so that using the conversion kit I can secure the Wolfbox direct to the mirror stem. This will allow the mirror to be set back towards the windscreen by a few millimetres allowing me to hide the wiring plugs behind the little airbag indicator panel. As a result I will also suffer less problems with reflections on bright days.
 

bakepl

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Did you route the cable of the rear camera via the cable channel at the bottom of the door? If so, was the cable long enough or did you have to order the cable extension kit?

I will get one of the Wolfbox mirrors as well and also have the privacy glass. Is there maybe any possibility to tune up the brightness of the rear camera only to compensate the tinted glass?
From memory... and its not good.. I used a 2 metre extension, (or that may have been brake controller) but definitely an extension, let's say 2m and any extra I wound up a little.

Needed the extra to run into the rear door via the door cable grommet. From the mirror tucked in the headliner, down the drivers A pillar and along the cable channel.

Brightness is turned up high as it can go.
 

DenisM

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From memory... and its not good.. I used a 2 metre extension, (or that may have been brake controller) but definitely an extension, let's say 2m and any extra I wound up a little.

Needed the extra to run into the rear door via the door cable grommet. From the mirror tucked in the headliner, down the drivers A pillar and along the cable channel.

Brightness is turned up high as it can go.
Thanks @bakepl : I've yet to " explore" the removal of panels.... but from your description do I take it that there's a "cable channel " from front to back along the top /behind the door sills?
Just trying to get my head around whether to tuck cable behind headlining then down either of the B or C pillars; thence to the rear door conduit...:unsure:
Down the A pillar and along the sill would make more sense...
 

bakepl

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Thanks @bakepl : I've yet to " explore" the removal of panels.... but from your description do I take it that there's a "cable channel " from front to back along the top /behind the door sills?
Just trying to get my head around whether to tuck cable behind headlining then down either of the B or C pillars; thence to the rear door conduit...:unsure:
Down the A pillar and along the sill would make more sense...
I had a few cables to run but if just the small camera cable I'd likely go via the headlining and down c, be much quicker/easier....
 

Cheshire cat

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Thanks @bakepl : I've yet to " explore" the removal of panels.... but from your description do I take it that there's a "cable channel " from front to back along the top /behind the door sills?
Just trying to get my head around whether to tuck cable behind headlining then down either of the B or C pillars; thence to the rear door conduit...:unsure:
Down the A pillar and along the sill would make more sense...
Using a trim tool, I pushed the wires into the headliner towards the A pillar. I then pushed the wires behind the A pillar’s without having to remove them. At the base of the A pillar and a little further down, there is a small channel at which point you can switch to pushing the cable behind the door seal. once at the base of the door opening, the door trim foot panel needs to be popped off front and rear. (Easily done), and the wire can then be run all the way to the rear.
 

klarie

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Hi HorstVoll
Yes. I routed the cable as you suggested. Unfortunately, it was about half a metre too short so I ordered the extended cable which would be long enough for a bus!! I tried mounting the rear cable on the inside of the rear window however, I couldn't route the cable through the flexible hose and into the rear door. I ended up placing the rear camera on the roof in a central position. There is then enough room to route the cable between two sections of plastic and down into the door seal. This seemed to me a much tidier solution and allows me to tow a trailer with a mini digger, and still see behind me.
I am happy with the Wolfbox but even though the picture is good, it is not like a real mirror. When I have time I want to remove the original mirror so that using the conversion kit I can secure the Wolfbox direct to the mirror stem. This will allow the mirror to be set back towards the windscreen by a few millimetres allowing me to hide the wiring plugs behind the little airbag indicator panel. As a result I will also suffer less problems with reflections on bright days.
Currently I have not yet decided to stay with vantrue or consider the wolfbox G900 instead.
What I am unsure about is the the rear camera and what is seen on the recording.
My current recording shows separate 1 minute mp4 for front an rear in UHD including audio, speed and GPS (Lat / Lon) position on each.
What is shown on the Wolfbox - the same - and the rear camera should be positioned outside..
What I see it doesnt matter if the rear camera is mounted upside down. The video can be turned,
Audio recording is done also. So capability is similar..

But where to mount the rear cam in a sensible way with out risking it too much splashed and get dirty...?
 

DenisM

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Using a trim tool, I pushed the wires into the headliner towards the A pillar. I then pushed the wires behind the A pillar’s without having to remove them. At the base of the A pillar and a little further down, there is a small channel at which point you can switch to pushing the cable behind the door seal. once at the base of the door opening, the door trim foot panel needs to be popped off front and rear. (Easily done), and the wire can then be run all the way to the rear.
"Genius"!! :love: Thank you!!
 

emax

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Currently I have not yet decided to stay with vantrue or consider the wolfbox G900 instead.
What I am unsure about is the the rear camera and what is seen on the recording.
My current recording shows separate 1 minute mp4 for front an rear in UHD including audio, speed and GPS (Lat / Lon) position on each.
What is shown on the Wolfbox - the same - and the rear camera should be positioned outside..
What I see it doesnt matter if the rear camera is mounted upside down. The video can be turned,
Audio recording is done also. So capability is similar..

But where to mount the rear cam in a sensible way with out risking it too much splashed and get dirty...?
As I have written before, it's all about the number plate recognition.

None of the current dashcams is particularly good at it, but after I've seen the video linked here ...


... I bought the Viofo A139Pro. I'll see how it works. And if it isn't good enough, I'll wait for the next or next-next- or next-next-next generation of dashcams and then buy a new one. So far, the Viofo will have to do for now.
 

Cheshire cat

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Currently I have not yet decided to stay with vantrue or consider the wolfbox G900 instead.
What I am unsure about is the the rear camera and what is seen on the recording.
My current recording shows separate 1 minute mp4 for front an rear in UHD including audio, speed and GPS (Lat / Lon) position on each.
What is shown on the Wolfbox - the same - and the rear camera should be positioned outside..
What I see it doesnt matter if the rear camera is mounted upside down. The video can be turned,
Audio recording is done also. So capability is similar..

But where to mount the rear cam in a sensible way with out risking it too much splashed and get dirty...?
Unfortunately I am away from home right now so can’t get a photo of the camera which is secured to the plastic finishing trim at the back of the roof.
 

klarie

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Unfortunately I am away from home right now so can’t get a photo of the camera which is secured to the plastic finishing trim at the back of the roof.
Yeah would be nice if you could publish a picture.

@emax with the vantrue I had no problems to identify any registration plate of Germany or other one from this side - neither black on white or UK Black on Yellow style. - US registrations are a different challenge however.
 

emax

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I don't doubt the Vantrue quality. But I decided with the respect to the video, and I don't remember if the Vantrue was compared as well.

The Viofo is a 3CH camera. I also want to have the rear view shots, and maybe an indoor camera will come in handy for YouTube from time to time. The only concern I have is power consumption - in terms of heat dissipation. The camera takes around 18W 😵‍💫.

But you're always smarter afterwards ... 🤷‍♂️
 

DenisM

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Intended to fit standard front/rear dashcam but ended up replacing rear view mirror with clip over electronic version that has dashcam built in (front and rear).

Also have rear camera on van for viewing when towing.

Works well, rear would have been better without the privacy glass as a little dark but clear enough. Wolfbox G840S + optional rear cam B09Q84NBFN.

View attachment 7827184View attachment 7827185
View attachment 7827186
What's the secret, if I may, to feeding the rear camera coax through the tightly sealed grommet and protective tube between the body and door?
I've removed the grommet and threaded the the coax with its connector through the hole in the body but am stumped as to how to thread it through the connection hose..
All hints welcome!!!
 

bakepl

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What's the secret, if I may, to feeding the rear camera coax through the tightly sealed grommet and protective tube between the body and door?
I've removed the grommet and threaded the the coax with its connector through the hole in the body but am stumped as to how to thread it through the connection hose..
All hints welcome!!!
Can't remember if I pulled the grommet away from the door or car body but either way just carefully used a stiff enough wire and gently pushed it through whilst guiding it with my other hand through the flexible tubing. (don't be over aggressive pushing the wire through as you do not want to damage any of the loom already in the rubber tube) Being careful it takes a bit of time.... then secure the camera cable to wire keeping it as thin as possible and pull it through.
 

Clark Kent

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Yep, @bakepl is onto it. I haven't done my Grenadier yet, but for past hatchbacks and wagons I have made a leader from either coat hanger wire or a length of grass trimmer cord and used that like a fish tape (example) to pull the camera coax through. Tape the coax to the tail end, lube it with some dish soap and pull gently once the coax enters the flexible duct. If you use a coat hanger bend the tip around first to make a blunt 'n' so you don't poke a hole through the duct.
 

DenisM

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@bakepl and @Clark Kent
thankyou for the "how to"..much appreciated! With the Gren. the grommet into the base of the door seems to be a shrink fit onto the loom and there's no room for another wire let alone one with a small connector attached. I note one other member of the forum faced a similar issue and ended up mounting the camera IIRC externally on the roof!
I hadn't thought about the trimmer line as a fish tape... I'll give that a go :))
cheers and thank again
D.
 

bakepl

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@bakepl and @Clark Kent
thankyou for the "how to"..much appreciated! With the Gren. the grommet into the base of the door seems to be a shrink fit onto the loom and there's no room for another wire let alone one with a small connector attached. I note one other member of the forum faced a similar issue and ended up mounting the camera IIRC externally on the roof!
I hadn't thought about the trimmer line as a fish tape... I'll give that a go :))
cheers and thank again
D.
Ah yes, recall now... grabbed a can of 'toughen up', top shelf isle 3 at supercheap.... 😅 Punched a small hole in the rubber conduit and went in that way, re-sealing with liquid electric tape and cloth loom tape over to tidy it up. (you're nearly making me pull it all apart to see what I did,.... now.... Jean might do that but....)😀
 
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DenisM

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Ah yes, recall now... grabbed a can of 'toughen up', top shelf isle 3 at supercheap.... 😅 Punched a small hole in the rubber conduit and went in that way, re-sealing with liquid electric tape and cloth loom tape over to tidy it up. (you're nearly making me pull it all apart to see what I did,.... now.... Jean might do that but....)😀
Ah! that's a great idea....mind you, (remembering this is a family forum) I might just say I couldn't ignore the irony of the above with the thought that next week I have an appointment with a man welding an endoscope :oops:... told me not to worry I'd be asleep .... too much information?:devilish:
 

DaveB

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Ah! that's a great idea....mind you, (remembering this is a family forum) I might just say I couldn't ignore the irony of the above with the thought that next week I have an appointment with a man welding an endoscope :oops:... told me not to worry I'd be asleep .... too much information?:devilish:
You won't be asleep you will be awake.
But they will give you midazolam which erases your memory.
Kind of like a date rape drug for doctors.
 
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