Ctek Smartpass and D250SE Connector Plates

[AnD3rew]

I was going to connect the solar blanket to the D250SE via the Anderson plug. Defintiely doing the above diagram. I plan to run the fridge off the smartpass consumer terminal. Probably going to connect the smart alternator wire to a jump fuse, hopefully to maximise the charging when driving

Ah ok, yes I am doing the same.

 

[Tomdoc]

I would be very grateful if someone with the dual battery system and who is adding the D250SE could share their wiring plan or final set up. I have the manual (and have read it!!) and am getting ready to install it when my plate arrives from Black Sheep.

I intend to :

1. Add a thick 2AWG cable from the D250 to the NEG terminal of the auxiliary battery
2. Connect the 2 CTEK units together (I will use good thick cables)
3. Take a ignition voltage to the D250 smart alternator wire by tapping into a fuse in the battery box - this has not been done by Ineos for the 120S not sure why?

The blue bits in the diagram as shown.

The solar panel will connect as described too.


Why am I asking? Because I don't want to screw up the new kit and the already installed bits. The existing cabling seems already to have the requisite fuses in line.

Grateful if anyone has done this successfully.

 

[Michael H.]

I would be very grateful if someone with the dual battery system and who is adding the D250SE could share their wiring plan or final set up. I have the manual (and have read it!!) and am getting ready to install it when my plate arrives from Black Sheep.

I intend to :

1. Add a thick 2AWG cable from the D250 to the NEG terminal of the auxiliary battery
2. Connect the 2 CTEK units together (I will use good thick cables)
3. Take a ignition voltage to the D250 smart alternator wire by tapping into a fuse in the battery box - this has not been done by Ineos for the 120S not sure why?

The blue bits in the diagram as shown.

The solar panel will connect as described too.


Why am I asking? Because I don't want to screw up the new kit and the already installed bits. The existing cabling seems already to have the requisite fuses in line.

Grateful if anyone has done this successfully.

 

[Tomdoc]

@Michael H.

So from this we can assume smaller cabling is acceptable. This has been bought up and questioned before - and I am grateful for the diagram from the manual. This states that there are low amp currents (up to 20A) at all times from the D250 whereas the 120S may pass up to 120A. Hence smaller AWG cables are acceptable, but larger gauge ones should be fine too.

It's important to get this correct as Ineos and CTEK are not supplying the connector plates.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Using both the CTEK 120S and the 250SE together
This post summerises key information from this CTEK instructional video. It is not a substitute for watching the video. It merely summerises key information to help an install.

Fuses
Two 300 amp fuses are needed (but one or both may already be installed on your INEOS).

One 300 amp between the Start Battery (aka main battery) and the CTEK 120S SMARTPASS. I believe this is done via a battery fuse on one of the INEOS busbars, known as a MEGA range ZCASE® fuse.

A second 300 amp fuse between the CTEK 120S and the Serve Battery (aka auxiliary battery). If you have selected the INEOS aux power pack INEOS uses an inline MEGA fuse in the Midi style (which are not MEGA range ZCASE fuses). I believe, but cannot be certain, this is the Littelfuse fuse holder used in the INEOS.

Warning: you must look at your car’s set up is before doing work, because set ups may vary between countries and models. Do not make assumptions! You may already have one or both fuses already installed.

Fuses used and cable length
Page 5 of the CTEK Manual lists the fuse ratings and cable requirements for your install. Cable size can vary depending on the length of a cable run. What cables to use may vary between the CTEK 250SE and 120S. The CTEK supplied Table tells you both, use it.

More fuse information
This thread has more detailed information on the fuses used in the INEOS.

Terminal screws/nuts on units
Use an Allen Key on the terminal screws (nuts) and tighten to 7 N-m of torque (Newton meters). Tightening by hand is not good enough.

Solar panel for the CTEK 250SE
The CTEK 250SE charger is designed for solar panels:

• between 50 and 300 watts;
• with a maximum open circuit output value of 23 volts;
• using a 6mm cable from the solar panel to the charger.

Use an M8 ring terminal/lug (I suggest a tin-plated copper lug) crimped to the solar panel cable and attach the cables to the solar input on the CTEK 250SE. Tighten to 7 N-m of torque.

View: https://youtu.be/kTRiqyzK9zA

 

[TheDocAUS]

Using both the CTEK 120S and the 250SE together
This post summerises key information from this CTEK instructional video. It is not a substitute for watching the video. It merely summerises key information to help an install.

View: https://youtu.be/kTRiqyzK9zA

I have combined this post and more information on the CTEK charger combo into a thread over here in Universal Parts.

 

[Tomdoc]

Thanks to @Black Sheep I am now in possession of a new bespoke mounting plate for the CTEK units which fits my 2-seater UW format.

This leaves me in a position to pass forward the goodwill shown by Black Sheep to me. So, if anyone has an IG with 5 seats (thus batteries under seats not a flat lid), I am happy to send on to them my "spare" original plate which I initially was supplied with.

This is the one with the fold-over edges and is designed for the 5-seat model.

DM me if you want my spare plate - I will have to remove it first (not a big job) and I will send it on for no charge.


Already allocated!!

 

[DCPU]

If anyone's looking for connector bars, I came across these today ~ not sure on lengths:

Flat connector Battery connector 72mm M8

Flat connector 90mm For connecting batteries.

carbatterymarket.co.uk

 

[Tomdoc]

If anyone's looking for connector bars, I came across these today ~ not sure on lengths:

Flat connector Battery connector 72mm M8

Flat connector 90mm For connecting batteries.

carbatterymarket.co.uk

These look absolutely perfect mate - great find. and less than 2 quid each.

 

[CountyV8]

CTEk were more than happy to send the connector plates all the way from Sweden

 

[DCPU]

CTEk were more than happy to send the connector plates all the way from Sweden

Not for everyone though.

 

[Tomdoc]

Definitely not for me- despite a nice email.

 

[CountyV8]

Definitely not for me- despite a nice email.

I quoted the units serial number

 

[Tomdoc]

 

[KDJDGrenadier]

I started to mount the D250SE in the Grenadier today and found i had to modify my original mounting ideas. I used angle aluminium and cut slots for where the D250SE and Smartpass wires were located. I used the original mounting holes but with longer M4 screws and tapped the holes in the 3mm angle for the D250SE. To my suprise I found the Temperature wires from the D250SE impacting on the vertical seat bracket. Maybe the aftermarket plates are offset? Anyway i spaced the D250SE up about 30mm and was able to get some clearance. Tomorrow i start the electrical side of the project. DCPU let me know not to use the black wire to the negative post so i will take that advice on board.
In the future i will probably revisit this with a proper aftermarket bracket but I think it will work for me in the short term. I used 3mm right angle aluminium for the brackets

 

[Tomdoc]

Good job - indeed the after-market plate is slightly offset

 

[DCPU]

My plate isn't offset and there's no issue - can you take a wider shot to illustrate the issue, I can't see what it is at the moment.

 

[Lyros]

CTEk were more than happy to send the connector plates all the way from Sweden

They also send them to me after I contacted the German support via Instagram and also email.

 

[Tinki]

They also send them to me after I contacted the German support via Instagram and also email.

This is the email i used . Went directly on their website and used the contact us form .

 

[bakepl]

My plate isn't offset and there's no issue - can you take a wider shot to illustrate the issue, I can't see what it is at the moment.

had exactly the same issue, guess there's some difference in seat bracket locations between models. The temp wire of the 250se jams up hard against the seat bracket of my TM wagon and prohibits fitting if using standard bracket dimensions. Had to offset the 250se as Blacksheep has done.