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Battery charging

DCPU

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Next time you’re using yours, could you please check if you get an error light if the adaptor plug is not connected to the vehicle? Many thanks. 🙂
Why are you doing it like that? Is that what your manual says do?

My instructions are clear and simple:

1. Connect the charger to the battery.
2. Connect the charger to the wall socket.
 

Michael H.

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Why are you doing it like that? Is that what your manual says do?

My instructions are clear and simple:

1. Connect the charger to the battery.
2. Connect the charger to the wall socket.
I dont have my vehicle yet. 🙂

I was curious that there’s no error message if I turn the charger on, or if I connect a CTEK extension cable to the charger, but if I connect the 13 pin adaptor the red error light illuminates with any mode other than SUPPLY.
 

DCPU

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I dont have my vehicle yet. 🙂

I was curious...
OK, just whatever you do don't lick the end when it's plugged in... 😜

Screenshot_20230701_135325.jpg
 

Simon C

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Something I've noticed is that the charging rate is actually higher if you are 'off' throttle under normal conditions (not after a start/stop) - seems to me that the 'smart' alternator is tyring to save fuel by light charging when under load and utilises engine braking for greater charge rate.

Typically 1 to 3 Amps on throttle or 6 to 8 Amps off throttle

I should say that I've had no charging issues, battery is always showing no less than 96% during normal use but has dropped to 90% when I didn't use it for a week.

I don't have the Aux battery but do have the extra switch panel
 

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I'm still waiting for a better suited ammeter clamp. The one from Fluke did not meet my expectations: It's rated for up to 1000 amps, so it doesn't give very reproducible readings in the single-digit amp range.

The Fluke clamp (like most others) gives only 1 mV per amp. So a current of 100 mA is equivalent to only 100 µV (i.e. microvolts). My DMM has no problems measuring this, but with the given range the readings for the relevant range sometimes fluctuate by a few hundred µV per second - giving a far too large deviation especially in the single or two digit amp range. And above all, we want to know what exactly is happening there. So I sent it back and ordered a 65 amp clamp which delivers 10 mV per Ampere (and has an attenuator for up to 650 amps).

Measuring clamps are always a compromise. The only thing that helps is a smaller measuring range.
 

DCPU

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Something I've noticed is that the charging rate is actually higher if you are 'off' throttle under normal conditions (not after a start/stop) - seems to me that the 'smart' alternator is tyring to save fuel by light charging when under load and utilises engine braking for greater charge rate.

Typically 1 to 3 Amps on throttle or 6 to 8 Amps off throttle

That's an interesting find. 👍
 

Eric

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Something I've noticed is that the charging rate is actually higher if you are 'off' throttle under normal conditions (not after a start/stop) - seems to me that the 'smart' alternator is tyring to save fuel by light charging when under load and utilises engine braking for greater charge rate.

Typically 1 to 3 Amps on throttle or 6 to 8 Amps off throttle
That's standard these days with smart alternators L//R have been stating for the last 10 years ish that their vehicles save fuel by battery charging when the engine is off load. Most high battery charging occurs on down hill descents or when not under load. Me I'd prefer to get full charge in the battery asap, especially if someone is using stop/start (mines turned off) or doing a lot of short runs.
 
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DCPU

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As far has I've seen upon hand over, there is a user-setting in the system configuration (I'll in the future just call it the Head Unit) which tells the system to charge (or "activate"?) the second battery. But the guy at the agent set this on the side with a few clicks so that I didn't see where and what has to be set.

I just remember his mumbling "I need to hook up the second battery ...". I Didn't yet look into this as the car just works.

Just re-reading this, and curious to know if you ever tracked the menu screen down? Could it have been some additional hidden/maintenance screens that we currently don't know how to access?
 

Orcmurd

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Something I've noticed is that the charging rate is actually higher if you are 'off' throttle under normal conditions (not after a start/stop) - seems to me that the 'smart' alternator is tyring to save fuel by light charging when under load and utilises engine braking for greater charge rate.

Typically 1 to 3 Amps on throttle or 6 to 8 Amps off throttle

I should say that I've had no charging issues, battery is always showing no less than 96% during normal use but has dropped to 90% when I didn't use it for a week.

I don't have the Aux battery but do have the extra switch panel
I’ve noticed the same. Sitting on motorway at 80mph/130kph and charging rate is 1 or 2 amps. Much higher charge rate when travelling at lower speeds.
 
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I don't have the Aux battery but do have the extra switch panel
Do they still give you the Smartpass etc without an aux battery?
And, are you fitting your own aux battery & DC charging unit.
 

Orcmurd

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So after driving across France for the past 10 days, I’ve noticed;
- at motorway speeds, battery charges at 1-2 amps
- around town, battery charges at up to 10 amps
- on a 5 hour run on a motorway, my SOC increases by around 4%
- a 30 minute drive around town can increase my SOC by 2%-3%
- I seem to lose 3% battery charge per day if not driven

Assuming my battery is fine and SOC display is accurate, based on my observations, the software for the smart alternator needs to be updated to provide more charging at higher speeds/loads. I have a diesel Trialmaster with auxiliary battery, 2500km. My battery was at 81% this morning and I’ve bought a basic charger to top it up. I will get my battery checked when I return home to rule out any issues with my battery.
 
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Assuming my battery is fine and SOC display is accurate, based on my observations, the software for the smart alternator needs to be updated to provide more charging at higher speeds/loads. I have a diesel Trialmaster with auxiliary battery, 2500km. My battery was at 81% this morning and I’ve bought a basic charger to top it up. I will get my battery checked when I return home to rule out any issues with my battery.
Are you running a fridge or accessory off the aux battery? Or your aux battery could just be low and the Smartpass is charging it as a priority. I think the battery % display only applies to the starter battery as some vehicles will have no aux battery.
You rarely see a battery % display in vehicles, most only show voltage so we're less likely to focus on how full the battery is. Also, these Ineos EFB batteries are lead acid which can take forever to fully charge. Internal resistance rises sharply after about 70-75% 'state of charge' (SOC) and from there it's a sloooow crawl up to 95-100%. Most vehicles will sit around 75% SOC or a 12.5V resting voltage due to multiple short runs.
 
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Orcmurd

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Are you running a fridge or accessory off the aux battery? Or your aux battery could just be low and the Smartpass is charging it as a priority. I think the battery % display only applies to the starter battery as some vehicles will have no aux battery.
You rarely see a battery % display in vehicles, most only show voltage so we're less likely to focus on how full the battery is. Also, these Ineos EFB batteries are lead acid (LA) which can take forever to fully charge. Internal resistance rises sharply after about 70-75% 'state of charge' (SOC) and from there it's a sloooow crawl up to 95-100%. Most vehicles will sit around 75% SOC or a 12.5V resting voltage due to multiple short runs.
Not running anything off the aux battery.
 
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You guys are the experts here: connecting a CTEK charger to the Aux battery - both batteries should charge?
 
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You guys are the experts here: connecting a CTEK charger to the Aux battery - both batteries should charge?
I have the Ineos supplied dual battery system and when I maintenance charge with my smart charger (Victron) both batteries seem to charge.
 

DenisM

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I have the Ineos supplied dual battery system and when I maintenance charge with my smart charger (Victron) both batteries seem to charge.
It would appear that while driving, a DC-DC charger maybe required along with the Ctek120 smart-pass to ensure that the aux. battery is receiving adequate charge along with the main battery...
Can you confirm whether the Smartpass device included with the aux. battery setup is the Smartpass120 or the Smartpass 120s?
 
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Simon C

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Do they still give you the Smartpass etc without an aux battery?
And, are you fitting your own aux battery & DC charging unit.
No Smartpass supplied without the Aux battery - I haven't decided whether to fit an Aux battery yet just thought the option was a bit expensive at the time.

May go down the Aux battery route with a DC/DC charger later on
 

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It would appear that while driving, a DC-DC charger maybe required along with the Ctek120 smart-pass to ensure that the aux. battery is receiving adequate charge along with the main battery...
Can you confirm whether the Smartpass device included with the aux. battery setup is the Smartpass120 or the Smartpass 120s?
The smartpass supplied is the 120s. I have been in touch with CTEK and they have confirmed if using a mains smart charger that 120s smartpass will allow both batteries to be charged as with alternator charging so should be the same for solar charging also with a separate mppt controller but I will confirm that also.
 

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Just re-reading this, and curious to know if you ever tracked the menu screen down?
I tried to find the function some days ago but haven't found anything like this although I tried each and every menu and submenu entry, as well as the small menus left or right of the respective headline.

Could it have been some additional hidden/maintenance screens that we currently don't know how to access?
Yes, may be. He did that on the fly so I didn't see his gestures.

But I wrote a note to check with the agent next time I visit.
 
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