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Battery charging

DCPU

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Update
1) car is charging more than I said, initially, after start up up to 40 amps😊
Have a look at the charging screen in offroad mode and allow the vehicle to do a stop/start - I very briefly saw a reading of 380 amps.
DCPU, how would this work with the fitted 13 (🤣) pin unit that runs the trailer lights etc?
As I've described elsewhere, perfectly. Pin 9 permanent live & pin 3 for the earth.
 

DaveB

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Can someone explain why everyone is charging their batteries manually.
Why doesn't the alternator charge them both when driving?
I have a Ctek charger I used to leave connected to my Suzuki Grand Vitara because it was only driven once every month , but never had to charge any other vehicle.
 

bakepl

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Can someone explain why everyone is charging their batteries manually.
Why doesn't the alternator charge them both when driving?
I have a Ctek charger I used to leave connected to my Suzuki Grand Vitara because it was only driven once every month , but never had to charge any other vehicle.
With all the electronics there will be a constant drain, small but nevertheless can add up if vehicle not used regularly = not best for normal batteries in general. If you use the vehicle daily no problem. I have an LC100 now mainly as a tow vehicle and have it on trickle charge and similar to a number of bikes I have. With the bike batteries if I don't trickle charge I'll be replacing near annually... Some people with new Defenders have experienced flat batteries when camping for a weekend due to opening doors constantly 'waking' the car up which then goes through some sort of power cycle and eventually failing to start, something else to be mindful of I guess and see what happens. Others here have asked what the battery drain is for this reason so might be an answer somewhere...
 

anand

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With all that being said, these vehicles have far fewer electronic control modules than a modern Defender (or really anything similar)... Something to the order of 25% as many modules.

Even with not being started in several weeks they still fire right up and charge very well (as well as an AGM can accept a charge at least).
 
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Can someone explain why everyone is charging their batteries manually.
Why doesn't the alternator charge them both when driving?
I have a Ctek charger I used to leave connected to my Suzuki Grand Vitara because it was only driven once every month , but never had to charge any other vehicle.
The alternator does charge both but once a lead acid battery gets to around 70% (enough to start the vehicle) the higher internal resistance slows the charge down considerably so you rarely get anywhere near 100%. Not helped by smart alternators throttling back the voltage during a decent drive - reason you need DC chargers for aux batteries to boost the voltage. For longevity it's wise to charge with a 3-5 stage charger overnight once every few months to prevent sulphation build up on the plates. You don't get this issue with lithium as the internal resistance is stuff all right up to fully charged.
 

DaveB

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The alternator does charge both but once a lead acid battery gets to around 70% (enough to start the vehicle) the higher internal resistance slows the charge down considerably so you rarely get anywhere near 100%. Not helped by smart alternators throttling back the voltage during a decent drive - reason you need DC chargers for aux batteries to boost the voltage. For longevity it's wise to charge with a 3-5 stage charger overnight once every few months to prevent sulphation build up on the plates. You don't get this issue with lithium as the internal resistance is stuff all right up to fully charged.
Thanks
I might set it p to trickle charge once a week using the Nato plug system @DCPU has.
Seems like a pretty simple solution.
I might add an anchor chain to pull the plug out if I drive off and forget
 

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With all that being said, these vehicles have far fewer electronic control modules than a modern Defender (or really anything similar)... Something to the order of 25% as many modules.

Even with not being started in several weeks they still fire right up and charge very well (as well as an AGM can accept a charge at least).
Agreed but the batteries are not AGM but AFB (advanced flooded batteries)
 

ECrider

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Thanks
I might set it p to trickle charge once a week using the Nato plug system @DCPU has.
Seems like a pretty simple solution.
I might add an anchor chain to pull the plug out if I drive off and forget
This is what I'm planning. But it's the tow electric connector not the Nato one.

@DCPU what is that waterproof box you have there? I need something similar.
 

Joey

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Except it appears that the power is not wired into the trailer socket on the Grenadier so don’t think this will work
Hi Andrew, how did you find this out? I would be concerned if there is no power to the trailer socket (Nato plug?)?
 

DCPU

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With all that being said, these vehicles have far fewer electronic control modules than a modern Defender (or really anything similar)... Something to the order of 25% as many modules.
I had in my head it was closer to 50%, but the point is still valid. 👍

Maybe of more relevance, is the actual current draw and the time it remains after engine shutdown.

I think the thing with the new Defender battery drain was the way the system was configured. People wanted the touchscreen to boot up the instant they jumped in, so instead of it completely switching off on ignition, it remains in a semi sleep mode for a time, and fully wakes up with the doors rather than the ignition.

People thought JLR had invested in a super fast processing chip but it was really a bit of smoke and mirrors. It pays to learn how your vehicle works.
 

marko

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Yes it is there - a permanent live at pin 9. The discussion on the towing socket thread was with regard to a separate live for the fridge - pin 10.


For the avoidance of doubt - mine has been plugged in and working just fine:
View attachment 7815515View attachment 7815517
Thanks. I’ve got one of those CTEK trailer plug adaptors but haven’t tried it out on the Grenadier yet. I’ll give it a go when I’m home next week.
 
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DCPU

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Thanks. I’ve got one of those CTEK trailer plug adaptors but haven’t tried it out on the Grenadier yet. I’ll give it a go when I’m home next week.
Just have a fire extinguisher on standby... 😜
 
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Can someone explain why everyone is charging their batteries manually.
Why doesn't the alternator charge them both when driving?
I have a Ctek charger I used to leave connected to my Suzuki Grand Vitara because it was only driven once every month , but never had to charge any other vehicle.
Because we new all EX LR and paranoid mechanics.
 

DCPU

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Thanks
I might set it p to trickle charge once a week using the Nato plug system @DCPU has.
Seems like a pretty simple solution.
I might add an anchor chain to pull the plug out if I drive off and forget

Even simpler solution:
WP_20230513_076.jpg
 

bigleonski

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Can someone explain why everyone is charging their batteries manually.
Why doesn't the alternator charge them both when driving?
I have a Ctek charger I used to leave connected to my Suzuki Grand Vitara because it was only driven once every month , but never had to charge any other vehicle.
I’d be less worried about the starter and more concerned with putting a trickle charge on the aux battery on a regular basis, particularly if you’re not doing long distance runs regularly. (Although having moved north you’re likely to do more klicks I suppose).
Because I live only 5km from the CBD I rarely get much of a run during the week to put charge into the aux after the starter has been juiced up by the alternator. So I give it a help along with the smart charger every couple of weeks.
 

emax

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Can someone explain why everyone is charging their batteries manually.
Why doesn't the alternator charge them both when driving?
I have a Ctek charger I used to leave connected to my Suzuki Grand Vitara because it was only driven once every month , but never had to charge any other vehicle.
As far has I've seen upon hand over, there is a user-setting in the system configuration (I'll in the future just call it the Head Unit) which tells the system to charge (or "activate"?) the second battery. But the guy at the agent set this on the side with a few clicks so that I didn't see where and what has to be set.

I just remember his mumbling "I need to hook up the second battery ...". I Didn't yet look into this as the car just works.

I'm now back from the Allrad show and have like 500 Km on the clock. There are some impressions and experiences to share, but I'll write down it over the weekend and then post it here.
 

DCPU

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Copied from another thread.
Hi @DCPU. In preparation for the imminent arrival of my Grenadier, I purchased a CTEK MXS7.0 and an adaptor to plug it into the 13 pin socket. The part I purchased was BRITPART 0049029 13 PIN CHARGING ADAPTOR DA1410, which looks similar to the adaptor you are using.
I'm not familiar with that adaptor plug - the one I used is the one from Mobile Centre:

but it should not really make much difference depending on the wiring.

I do not have any knowledge of 13 pin wiring, but I was surprised to note that when I did some continuity testing using my multimeter, the adaptor appears to have the negative wired to pin 3 and the positive wired to pin 9. I was expecting the negative to be wired to pin 13. Is that a problem?
I can confirm that my adaptor is wired exactly the same as yours and works perfectly.

I also note that when I connect the adaptor to my CTEK, the red error light illuminates on all modes other than SUPPLY. Again, is this a problem?

Any advice would be much appreciated. 🙂
I'm not familiar with that model so don't think I can answer.
 

Michael H.

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I'm not familiar with that model so don't think I can answer.
Thank you very much for your reply. I purchased mine here:


Next time you’re using yours, could you please check if you get an error light if the adaptor plug is not connected to the vehicle? Many thanks. 🙂
 
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