Air Conditioning quits, requires engine re-start in high heat/humidity

[Skydance]

Thank you for that insight! I will keep tweaking on it.
The pressure that was assigned from the dealership doesn’t even come close to the three different “prescribed” pressures… the manual shows one set, and the two different labelss on the door sill
Trying to figure out what is correct and which will keep the warning lights off

Thank you for that insight! I will keep tweaking on it.
The pressure that was assigned from the dealership doesn’t even come close to the three different “prescribed” pressures… the manual shows one set, and the two different labelss on the door sill
Trying to figure out what is correct and which will keep the warning lights of

Thank you for that insight! I will keep tweaking on it.
The pressure that was assigned from the dealership doesn’t even come close to the three different “prescribed” pressures… the manual shows one set, and the two different labelss on the door sill
Trying to figure out what is correct and which will keep the warning lights off

Inflate COLD pressure tyres to 36psi all round. Then goto settings on the informatainment, vehicle setttings, tyre pressure and then press reset. This will get rid of the low and high tyre pressure warnings.

 

[anand]

Thank you for that insight! I will keep tweaking on it.
The pressure that was assigned from the dealership doesn’t even come close to the three different “prescribed” pressures… the manual shows one set, and the two different labelss on the door sill
Trying to figure out what is correct and which will keep the warning lights off

The manual states what the different pressures are for.

36F/R is for up to 3 passengers; the pressures on the sticker in the door are for max GVWR

 

[Wartowne]

Inflate COLD pressure tyres to 36psi all round. Then goto settings on the informatainment, vehicle setttings, tyre pressure and then press reset. This will get rid of the low and high tyre pressure warnings.

Unfortunately, that did not work.
Seems like a 4 psi variant up or down before warning may not be enough for Texas climate.
Apologies for hijacking this thread. I will move my comments to a more appropriate thread.

 

[anand]

Unfortunately, that did not work.
Seems like a 4 psi variant up or down before warning may not be enough for Texas climate

Plenty of other Texans have been driving them for 10 months without any massive trouble , also, resetting the cold pressures doesn't take effect immediately, sometimes it takes 5+ minutes before it registers in the system

 

[Kevin Mokracek]

The AC fully crapped the bed today. It did the usual warm air front vents and super hot rear. It reset itself after parking it and it worked fine. Later I drove to the store and the AC was totally out, just warm moist air out all vents and very erratic fan speed, slowing way down then speeding up but no change in temp, just hot humid air and it’s was 110 today in Burbank, driving with the windows down was more comfortable.
I have an appointment tomorrow to get it to the dealer but knowing my luck it will work perfect tomorrow. This truck is totally unusable and untrustworthy as far as the AC goes or the entire HVAC system. I have a rafting trip in Utah coming up and will be driving across the desert with a truck full of rafting gear, I can’t do it in this truck, I just don’t trust it anymore

 

[Chuck Gaskin]

Went to buy a "2024" Grenadier (build date 12/23) in Houston today. Got all the paperwork completed, cranked the truck up to drive away and the AC was blowing scalding hot air in the front and back. We grabbed a staff member who checked it out and immediately got the GM. After asking what we would like to do, my wife said "Absolutely we do not want this vehicle" Indeed, it demonstrated ALL of the symptoms everyone is describing. The dealership let us pick out a different truck, (build date 5/24) and we happily drove it home 100% functional. Mossy Road Grenadier is, as I understand, the highest volume dealer in the world. They treated us fantastic and we now have 150 miles on our Scottish White truck as of this posting. Very impressed with the Grenadier and hope that the good vibes continue!

Lucky you for not buying the one I did. I was forced to take mine to a BMW dealership to fix the air. However it does the same thing intermittently Front detection stays on and tire pressure alarms never stop. If Ineos doesn’t address this it will wreck the company. My dealer is in Atlanta and no service is available to me unless I drive 5rs each way. Don’t buy from Regal unless you live close

 

[Chuck Gaskin]

Almost sounds like something freezes up, wonder if it is low freon in the system

I couldn’t get my dealer to fix so I had a BMW dealership service the the system and it was low. Fixed for awhile but having same problems occasionally and it blows very hot air. Dealership is 5 hr drive and they refuse to tow or haul to be fixed. It’s about time to start class action. Ineos will die a slow death if they can’t service what they sell.

 

[anand]

I couldn’t get my dealer to fix so I had a BMW dealership service the the system and it was low. Fixed for awhile but having same problems occasionally and it blows very hot air. Dealership is 5 hr drive and they refuse to tow or haul to be fixed. It’s about time to start class action. Ineos will die a slow death if they can’t service what they sell.

To be more appropriate, the BMW dealer did as much as any generic automotive shop can do, which is vacuum and recharge the system. There is nothing BMW related when it comes to the HVAC system (other than the fact that the compressor is shared with BMW, but BMW can't read fault codes or anything).

Purchasing a vehicle 5 hours away from a dealer comes with certain understood and assumed risks unfortunately, one of those being transporting the vehicle to the dealer for repairs as needed

 

[Tom109]

Big question: how does bleeding the system supposedly cure the issue at hand?

Specifically:

• AC functioning normal and efficiently supplying ice-cold air 99% of the time
• Randomly delivers lukewarm air out the front vents and fire-hot air to the rear vents.
• Apparently fixed by cycling vehicle electrical system (in one way or another).

My vehicle in the above scenario:

• Never have heating issues
• (Typically) Blows ice-cold AC
• Routinely verify both coolant reservoirs are at proper level

I’m curious if there are multiple issues at hand.

 

[WJG-GMT II]

OP here with an update:

At the request of my dealer (Regal in Atlanta GA) I sent them a video of the symptoms (AC off and not responsive to button pushes) after the problem occurs. They indicated that they were sending it to the regional (?) INEOS rep and would get back to me.

In the mean time, I have discovered something useful!

When the A/C system drops out, I was previously turning the car off and on in order to regain A/C function. It turns out that if I follow the process below, the A/C will come back to life every time and work perfectly (for a while) again:

Turn fan to OFF
Press and hold A/C On button for a few seconds (nothing happens, as expected)
Turn fan to ON (turn up to any speed)
Press A/C On button

Air conditioning comes back on and blows cold!

This trick quite possibly saved my marriage when we were all dressed up and running late to a graduation a few weeks ago.

Something as basic as air conditioning should never be a problem in a modern vehicle

 

[Jax Fl Dave]

Same problem, I can drive it 15 times with no issue, blows super cold but then I will stop and run into the market and start up again and I get super hot air out the back vents and warm out the front. No amount of fiddling with the controls will return the cold air, I have to stop, turn off the engine for at least 10 minutes and cross my fingers it will blow cold again. Most times it will start working again but there have been a few long hot drives where nothing seemed to reset it until I let it sit for an hour or more. I don't see how it can be a refrigerant level issue as it blows ice cold most times. It seems to be an electrical demon. When I called the dealer they said they hadn't heard of any issues except the low refrigerant level or leak. I am hesitant to bring it in because they will test it and it will work fine and hand it back saying no problem found. Thats the problem with intermittent issues.

I have the exact same issue. Dealer 4 hrs away so I want to be sure they know the cause before taking it in. Has anyone replied with a resolution to this?

 

[Skydance]

I have the exact same issue. Dealer 4 hrs away so I want to be sure they know the cause before taking it in. Has anyone replied with a resolution to this?

The resolution to this is to use auto in these circumstances. In manual mode, I noticed it doesn’t regulate the temperature very well. For example In hot weather it can blow hot air even if you set it to 23 degrees but flick it in auto, then it works as it supposed to even if you haven’t adjusted the temperature. I don’t think there is fix for this as yet.

 

[Kevin Mokracek]

The resolution to this is to use auto in these circumstances. In manual mode, I noticed it doesn’t regulate the temperature very well. For example In hot weather it can blow hot air even if you set it to 23 degrees but flick it in auto, then it works as it supposed to even if you haven’t adjusted the temperature. I don’t think there is fix for this as yet.

This hasn't been my experience, switching to auto simply kicks the system into high gear and blows the hot air even harder, it doesn't change the temp at all.

 

[Skydance]

This hasn't been my experience, switching to auto simply kicks the system into high gear and blows the hot air even harder, it doesn't change the temp at all.

That’s strange, we all live in different climates and it’s hard to get a consistent conclusion on this. Ideally or correctly, It should blow ice cold air to the cabin to cool it down (in hot weather). Mine does this on auto. Manual can be hit and miss sometimes. I think it’s a matter of trial and error and go through all the steps such making sure coolant is topped up to max on both reservoirs and ensuring the air-con is gassed up without any leaks.

 

[Jax Fl Dave]

The resolution to this is to use auto in these circumstances. In manual mode, I noticed it doesn’t regulate the temperature very well. For example In hot weather it can blow hot air even if you set it to 23 degrees but flick it in auto, then it works as it supposed to even if you haven’t adjusted the temperature. I don’t think there is fix for this as yet.

I tried that first time. Auto doesn’t seem to work at all on mine. I avoid it totally. When blowing hot I turn auto on and it blows full blast outside air. Rear still hot enough to burn. What seems to keep it limping along till I get in. Turn fan off when I exit the car every time. When I get in I start car leave it off till I get going then turn to 1 and increase slowly as needed. If this is not the box / sensor problem others have wrote about, I am thinking software.

 

[Clark Kent]

That’s strange, we all live in different climates and it’s hard to get a consistent conclusion on this. Ideally or correctly, It should blow ice cold air to the cabin to cool it down (in hot weather). Mine does this on auto. Manual can be hit and miss sometimes. I think it’s a matter of trial and error and go through all the steps such making sure coolant is topped up to max on both reservoirs and ensuring the air-con is gassed up without any leaks.

It is indeed strange. Coolant system bleeding seems to help. Bleeding n times seems to help more.

I have again returned to the info in these pics taken from the B58 tech manual. Now I don't know what I don't know, but I wonder if timing explains some of the randomness of complaints where the heater and AC apparently work for owner A but not owner B. These tech pages are telling us that from engine cold start there is no coolant flow in the main or heater circuits.for a period of time where time is engine operating temperature. Heating of the engine core takes priority. In the B58TU variant, which I think all B58 Grenadiers have, the cooling system is further split into cylinder head, then engine block, then everything else.

This characteristic could be a part of the problem where we see differing reports. Along with coolant bleeding, AC leaks, etc.

1. Until coolant flows in the heater circuit and everything gets heat soaked, the heater and defog function won't be effective (similar to a conventional cooling system but keep reading *).

2. The AC condenser is a liquid heat exchanger located in an engine coolant circuit. It is not a conventional air heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator. Depending on the which coolant circuit the AC heat exchanger is supplied from, there will be a period of time after engine cold start where there is little to no effective heat exchange so the 'condenser' action of cooling hot AC gas refrigerant before compression back to a liquid state will be reduced until the AC liquid heat exchanger gets coolant flow and wakes up.

Postulation (or maybe complete BS, you choose):

Grenadier heater and AC system operation might be a little bit rubbish after cold engine start - until the engine heat management module directs coolant to the applicable circuits and the heat exchangers become effective. Accordingly, if Owner B is struggling with their system, when is this most apparent? Is it after engine cold engine start? Keep in mind that cold engine is very different to cold ambient temperature. A cold engine start can be at the end of a hot day.

* This is different to a conventional wax- thermostat-controlled engine cooling system where the heater core gets hot as soon as the thermostat opens (and heat mode is selected). Further, the AC condenser is not relying on engine coolant flow to operate. It just uses frontal airflow from forward motion or the engine fan.

 

[Zimm]

It is indeed strange. Coolant system bleeding seems to help. Bleeding n times seems to help more.

I have again returned to the info in these pics taken from the B58 tech manual. Now I don't know what I don't know, but I wonder if timing explains some of the randomness of complaints where the heater and AC apparently work for owner A but not owner B. These tech pages are telling us that from engine cold start there is no coolant flow in the main or heater circuits.for a period of time where time is engine operating temperature. Heating of the engine core takes priority. In the B58TU variant, which I think all B58 Grenadiers have, the cooling system is further split into cylinder head, then engine block, then everything else.

This characteristic could be a part of the problem where we see differing reports. Along with coolant bleeding, AC leaks, etc.

1. Until coolant flows in the heater circuit and everything gets heat soaked, the heater and defog function won't be effective (similar to a conventional cooling system but keep reading *).

2. The AC condenser is a liquid heat exchanger located in an engine coolant circuit. It is not a conventional air heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator. Depending on the which coolant circuit the AC heat exchanger is supplied from, there will be a period of time after engine cold start where there is little to no effective heat exchange so the 'condenser' action of cooling hot AC gas refrigerant before compression back to a liquid state will be reduced until the AC liquid heat exchanger gets coolant flow and wakes up.

Postulation (or maybe complete BS, you choose):

Grenadier heater and AC system operation might be a little bit rubbish after cold engine start - until the engine heat management module directs coolant to the applicable circuits and the heat exchangers become effective. Accordingly, if Owner B is struggling with their system, when is this most apparent? Is it after engine cold engine start? Keep in mind that cold engine is very different to cold ambient temperature. A cold engine start can be at the end of a hot day.

* This is different to a conventional wax- thermostat-controlled engine cooling system where the heater core gets hot as soon as the thermostat opens (and heat mode is selected). Further, the AC condenser is not relying on engine coolant flow to operate. It just uses frontal airflow from forward motion or the engine fan.View attachment 7894510

View attachment 7894511

Hm. Something to chew on.