Air Conditioning quits, requires engine re-start in high heat/humidity

[Skydance]

Thank you for that insight! I will keep tweaking on it.
The pressure that was assigned from the dealership doesn’t even come close to the three different “prescribed” pressures… the manual shows one set, and the two different labelss on the door sill
Trying to figure out what is correct and which will keep the warning lights off

Thank you for that insight! I will keep tweaking on it.
The pressure that was assigned from the dealership doesn’t even come close to the three different “prescribed” pressures… the manual shows one set, and the two different labelss on the door sill
Trying to figure out what is correct and which will keep the warning lights of

Thank you for that insight! I will keep tweaking on it.
The pressure that was assigned from the dealership doesn’t even come close to the three different “prescribed” pressures… the manual shows one set, and the two different labelss on the door sill
Trying to figure out what is correct and which will keep the warning lights off

Inflate COLD pressure tyres to 36psi all round. Then goto settings on the informatainment, vehicle setttings, tyre pressure and then press reset. This will get rid of the low and high tyre pressure warnings.

 

[anand]

Thank you for that insight! I will keep tweaking on it.
The pressure that was assigned from the dealership doesn’t even come close to the three different “prescribed” pressures… the manual shows one set, and the two different labelss on the door sill
Trying to figure out what is correct and which will keep the warning lights off

The manual states what the different pressures are for.

36F/R is for up to 3 passengers; the pressures on the sticker in the door are for max GVWR

 

[Wartowne]

Inflate COLD pressure tyres to 36psi all round. Then goto settings on the informatainment, vehicle setttings, tyre pressure and then press reset. This will get rid of the low and high tyre pressure warnings.

Unfortunately, that did not work.
Seems like a 4 psi variant up or down before warning may not be enough for Texas climate.
Apologies for hijacking this thread. I will move my comments to a more appropriate thread.

 

[anand]

Unfortunately, that did not work.
Seems like a 4 psi variant up or down before warning may not be enough for Texas climate

Plenty of other Texans have been driving them for 10 months without any massive trouble , also, resetting the cold pressures doesn't take effect immediately, sometimes it takes 5+ minutes before it registers in the system

 

[Kevin Mokracek]

The AC fully crapped the bed today. It did the usual warm air front vents and super hot rear. It reset itself after parking it and it worked fine. Later I drove to the store and the AC was totally out, just warm moist air out all vents and very erratic fan speed, slowing way down then speeding up but no change in temp, just hot humid air and it’s was 110 today in Burbank, driving with the windows down was more comfortable.
I have an appointment tomorrow to get it to the dealer but knowing my luck it will work perfect tomorrow. This truck is totally unusable and untrustworthy as far as the AC goes or the entire HVAC system. I have a rafting trip in Utah coming up and will be driving across the desert with a truck full of rafting gear, I can’t do it in this truck, I just don’t trust it anymore

 

[Chuck Gaskin]

Went to buy a "2024" Grenadier (build date 12/23) in Houston today. Got all the paperwork completed, cranked the truck up to drive away and the AC was blowing scalding hot air in the front and back. We grabbed a staff member who checked it out and immediately got the GM. After asking what we would like to do, my wife said "Absolutely we do not want this vehicle" Indeed, it demonstrated ALL of the symptoms everyone is describing. The dealership let us pick out a different truck, (build date 5/24) and we happily drove it home 100% functional. Mossy Road Grenadier is, as I understand, the highest volume dealer in the world. They treated us fantastic and we now have 150 miles on our Scottish White truck as of this posting. Very impressed with the Grenadier and hope that the good vibes continue!

Lucky you for not buying the one I did. I was forced to take mine to a BMW dealership to fix the air. However it does the same thing intermittently Front detection stays on and tire pressure alarms never stop. If Ineos doesn’t address this it will wreck the company. My dealer is in Atlanta and no service is available to me unless I drive 5rs each way. Don’t buy from Regal unless you live close

 

[Chuck Gaskin]

Almost sounds like something freezes up, wonder if it is low freon in the system

I couldn’t get my dealer to fix so I had a BMW dealership service the the system and it was low. Fixed for awhile but having same problems occasionally and it blows very hot air. Dealership is 5 hr drive and they refuse to tow or haul to be fixed. It’s about time to start class action. Ineos will die a slow death if they can’t service what they sell.

 

[anand]

I couldn’t get my dealer to fix so I had a BMW dealership service the the system and it was low. Fixed for awhile but having same problems occasionally and it blows very hot air. Dealership is 5 hr drive and they refuse to tow or haul to be fixed. It’s about time to start class action. Ineos will die a slow death if they can’t service what they sell.

To be more appropriate, the BMW dealer did as much as any generic automotive shop can do, which is vacuum and recharge the system. There is nothing BMW related when it comes to the HVAC system (other than the fact that the compressor is shared with BMW, but BMW can't read fault codes or anything).

Purchasing a vehicle 5 hours away from a dealer comes with certain understood and assumed risks unfortunately, one of those being transporting the vehicle to the dealer for repairs as needed

 

[Tom109]

Big question: how does bleeding the system supposedly cure the issue at hand?

Specifically:

• AC functioning normal and efficiently supplying ice-cold air 99% of the time
• Randomly delivers lukewarm air out the front vents and fire-hot air to the rear vents.
• Apparently fixed by cycling vehicle electrical system (in one way or another).

My vehicle in the above scenario:

• Never have heating issues
• (Typically) Blows ice-cold AC
• Routinely verify both coolant reservoirs are at proper level

I’m curious if there are multiple issues at hand.

 

[WJG-GMT II]

OP here with an update:

At the request of my dealer (Regal in Atlanta GA) I sent them a video of the symptoms (AC off and not responsive to button pushes) after the problem occurs. They indicated that they were sending it to the regional (?) INEOS rep and would get back to me.

In the mean time, I have discovered something useful!

When the A/C system drops out, I was previously turning the car off and on in order to regain A/C function. It turns out that if I follow the process below, the A/C will come back to life every time and work perfectly (for a while) again:

Turn fan to OFF
Press and hold A/C On button for a few seconds (nothing happens, as expected)
Turn fan to ON (turn up to any speed)
Press A/C On button

Air conditioning comes back on and blows cold!

This trick quite possibly saved my marriage when we were all dressed up and running late to a graduation a few weeks ago.

Something as basic as air conditioning should never be a problem in a modern vehicle