Auxiliary Battery setup components

CRH said:

Yes, that is what I would do but, I haven't a clue how!!
All the switches run off the main battery, I can copy and do things, put additional 12v & USB sockets in passenger footwell, fit stuff, boot shelf, door table and on old cars, brake pads, discs, wheel bearing, king pins, all following the old Haynes manuals but other than that, I'm useless

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Kruegerruda said:

And the next problem: For whatever reason, the starter battery is only charged up to 75% capacity by the alternator. I fear that this will also be the case for a lithium battery. Software presetting?

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Tom D said:

But as I said earlier, if a compatible lithium cranking battery can be found that is simply plug and play this is a much easier solution.
One brand I noticed has a 20% reserve feature meaning that at 20% power the battery will shut off power to the accessories to leave enough power to start the vehicle. This gives all the benefits of a second battery system without all the additional wiring. Some also have smartphone apps that allow things like that to be configured..

I suspect that Lithium starter batteries with smart features will all but replace the need for second batteries in most setups.

I’m still researching all this but I’m pretty sure that I’ll go down the lithium starter route.

I think the grenadier has a 100ish Ah battery. That gives you 40-50 useable Ah’s. A 120Ah lithium would give you double that and still be able to start the car…

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Roving.Grenadier said:

Actually…if you get the aux battery from the factory, all switching accessories come off the second battery, and the aux battery is able to basically trickle charge the primary down to 10V, then it shuts off is charging function if it can’t keep up with the drawdown.

There’s been misleading info since forever that the all accessories are powered by the primary in aux battery configuration. Not sure where the misleading info came from, but this was corrected by a highly trusted source within the Ineos organization. We can sidebar this if you want.

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Xrford said:

Hmm please provide your source for this information. I have watched Robert Peppers 2nd “technical clarification part 2” Here (3:22 marker) where the Ineos technical lead’s response, specifically said the wiring of electrical accessories (consumers) are the same for single battery vehicles as dual battery vehicles. Which would mean they are being fed from the starter battery. This was done in part to simplify the production process.

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Roving.Grenadier said:

I wish I could name names, but I will say that there is not a clear understanding within the Grenadier community on how it all works.

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Xrford said:

Well all the evidence seems to contradict your unknown source. I have even seen one Australian member purposely alter his wiring to move the accessories to the auxiliary battery, so unless this was a recent change for North American market, I will have to disagree with you source.

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Roving.Grenadier said:

Ineos hasn’t really shed any light on the true technical aspects of the dual battery option, the interview with the head of engineering even declined to answer the question and the clarification video was not truly any clarification.

The interview did highlight that all markets were the same so the Australian is not different than the US.

I sent the clarification video to my source and they replied that the video doesn’t do a good job as a system description and operation. That video for all intents and purposes, is useless.

But I’d love to see how the Aussie moved his accessory bus to his aux battery. I know the general circuit but I need ohm it out to be sure.

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DenisM said:

There's Good News and Not So Good News: Good News: Adding an auxiliary battery to manage a car fridge/CB radio/ camping lights etc is not a great obstacle and well within the capabilities of a local automotive electrician.

Not so good news: If you are contemplating copying the setup as per vehicles which have the so-called "electrical preparation" including additional start battery as an auxiliary.. then sadly: NO. This option was added in during assembly and has additional heavy duty wiring front and rear, additional busbars, fuses, switches, outlets etc as well as software implications. Furthermore there is as yet no easily obtainable wiring diagram...( waiting....waiting)
The wiring- aux battery option, the "Rough Pack" (f/r locking diffs) and the Safari windows were the three "now or never" major options which had to be specified in advance.

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Roving.Grenadier said:

I am not sure the "Bad News" is entirely accurate. You can easily add the CTEK charger and second battery. The second 5-stud bus bar should be included with every Grenadier whether you configured it with the second battery or high-load panel, or not. I didn't get the second battery, but I did get the high-load panel. Not much is missing.

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Rok_Dr said:

The way I read it is you only get the 5 stud bus when you option the second battery and/or high load wiring preparation. If some one has neither option but still has the 5 stud bus fitted let me know.

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eddyoz said:

Agreed in that the 5 stud bus exists in my vehicle which has the high load wiring but no aux battery.I am in the early stages of fitting a LIPO .aux,so far only the bracket for the Cteks.
Price a bit too steep for the battery brackets!

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parb said:

I'm definately going to figure out a second battery.
My preference is to have a house battery that is separate from the starter which powers some of my AUX power including the roof bar outlets and the trunk outlets separately from the starter batter that powers the rest of the vehicle. Need to figure that out.

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Roving.Grenadier said:

Yea, I would be curious to know if you don't get the 5-stud if you don't order either of those options.

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anand said:

If you don't have either the aux battery or the high amp switch panel, you do not get the 5 stud busbar; only the 7 stud

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Roving.Grenadier said:

So in that case, you are simply adding a lead from the #7 terminal of the 7-stud bus bar (far-right terminal), and either adding your own bus bar, or connecting directly to a DCDC charger. I could add a mega-fuse close to the #7 terminal, appropriate to the amperage load you'll be supporting on the new circuit.

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anand said:

Yes... I also don't have the inverter, so I have (had) 2 spots free on the 7 stud bus bar.

The inverter stud (4 I think?) retains the 60A ZCASE fuse installed at the factory (I found it interesting that it is fused for the inverter despite not having it) and feeds a 60A capable relay to provide an ignition-switched fuse block off of the main battery; on the stud that is used for the 5 stud bus bar (#7) I placed a 80A ZCASE fuse and ran a wire directly to the DC-DC charger

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