Auxiliary Battery setup components

[Roving.Grenadier]

Yes, that is what I would do but, I haven't a clue how!!
All the switches run off the main battery, I can copy and do things, put additional 12v & USB sockets in passenger footwell, fit stuff, boot shelf, door table and on old cars, brake pads, discs, wheel bearing, king pins, all following the old Haynes manuals but other than that, I'm useless

I’ll be swapping the main switches of the main battery, I’ll document and share when I’m done. Just got the battery installed with a DCDC charger, so I’m close.

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

And the next problem: For whatever reason, the starter battery is only charged up to 75% capacity by the alternator. I fear that this will also be the case for a lithium battery. Software presetting?

I regularly see 100% SOC, are you leaving your power switch on all the time?

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

But as I said earlier, if a compatible lithium cranking battery can be found that is simply plug and play this is a much easier solution.
One brand I noticed has a 20% reserve feature meaning that at 20% power the battery will shut off power to the accessories to leave enough power to start the vehicle. This gives all the benefits of a second battery system without all the additional wiring. Some also have smartphone apps that allow things like that to be configured..

I suspect that Lithium starter batteries with smart features will all but replace the need for second batteries in most setups.

I’m still researching all this but I’m pretty sure that I’ll go down the lithium starter route.

I think the grenadier has a 100ish Ah battery. That gives you 40-50 useable Ah’s. A 120Ah lithium would give you double that and still be able to start the car…

The Grenadier’s EFB battery has 105AH. EFB is chosen specifically because of its higher start cycles, more discharge capacity, and most importantly, is the best battery for Start/Stop equipped vehicles. Having a second dedicated mini-start/stop battery is on its way out with EFB’s becoming more popular.

I’d love to see a swap to a lithium starting battery though! You need to find a way to integrate a charge controller (I think anyway). Any guinea pigs??

 

[Xrford]

Actually…if you get the aux battery from the factory, all switching accessories come off the second battery, and the aux battery is able to basically trickle charge the primary down to 10V, then it shuts off is charging function if it can’t keep up with the drawdown.

There’s been misleading info since forever that the all accessories are powered by the primary in aux battery configuration. Not sure where the misleading info came from, but this was corrected by a highly trusted source within the Ineos organization. We can sidebar this if you want.

Hmm please provide your source for this information. I have watched Robert Peppers 2nd “technical clarification part 2” Here (3:22 marker) where the Ineos technical lead’s response, specifically said the wiring of electrical accessories (consumers) are the same for single battery vehicles as dual battery vehicles. Which would mean they are being fed from the starter battery. This was done in part to simplify the production process.

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

Hmm please provide your source for this information. I have watched Robert Peppers 2nd “technical clarification part 2” Here (3:22 marker) where the Ineos technical lead’s response, specifically said the wiring of electrical accessories (consumers) are the same for single battery vehicles as dual battery vehicles. Which would mean they are being fed from the starter battery. This was done in part to simplify the production process.

I wish I could name names, but I will say that there is not a clear understanding within the Grenadier community on how it all works.

 

[Xrford]

I wish I could name names, but I will say that there is not a clear understanding within the Grenadier community on how it all works.

Well all the evidence seems to contradict your unknown source. I have even seen one Australian member purposely alter his wiring to move the accessories to the auxiliary battery, so unless this was a recent change for North American market, I will have to disagree with you source.

 

[TheDocAUS]

If you look at the Busbar thread here, you can see how much of the power is distributed in the Grenadier, especially here. The images and description concern an AU Spec diesel with a dual battery set up and the high aux power option.

There are some differences between models and set ups. If in doubt, speak to your auto electrician or dealer.

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

Well all the evidence seems to contradict your unknown source. I have even seen one Australian member purposely alter his wiring to move the accessories to the auxiliary battery, so unless this was a recent change for North American market, I will have to disagree with you source.

Ineos hasn’t really shed any light on the true technical aspects of the dual battery option, the interview with the head of engineering even declined to answer the question and the clarification video was not truly any clarification.

The interview did highlight that all markets were the same so the Australian is not different than the US.

I sent the clarification video to my source and they replied that the video doesn’t do a good job as a system description and operation. That video for all intents and purposes, is useless.

But I’d love to see how the Aussie moved his accessory bus to his aux battery. I know the general circuit but I need ohm it out to be sure.

 

[Xrford]

Ineos hasn’t really shed any light on the true technical aspects of the dual battery option, the interview with the head of engineering even declined to answer the question and the clarification video was not truly any clarification.

The interview did highlight that all markets were the same so the Australian is not different than the US.

I sent the clarification video to my source and they replied that the video doesn’t do a good job as a system description and operation. That video for all intents and purposes, is useless.

But I’d love to see how the Aussie moved his accessory bus to his aux battery. I know the general circuit but I need ohm it out to be sure.

hers the link to the guy who reconfigure his dual battery setup. I was mistaken it was a UK bloke not an Australian

Thread 'Dual battery setup modifications'
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/dual-battery-setup-modifications.12413300/

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

There's Good News and Not So Good News: Good News: Adding an auxiliary battery to manage a car fridge/CB radio/ camping lights etc is not a great obstacle and well within the capabilities of a local automotive electrician.

Not so good news: If you are contemplating copying the setup as per vehicles which have the so-called "electrical preparation" including additional start battery as an auxiliary.. then sadly: NO. This option was added in during assembly and has additional heavy duty wiring front and rear, additional busbars, fuses, switches, outlets etc as well as software implications. Furthermore there is as yet no easily obtainable wiring diagram...( waiting....waiting)
The wiring- aux battery option, the "Rough Pack" (f/r locking diffs) and the Safari windows were the three "now or never" major options which had to be specified in advance.

I am not sure the "Bad News" is entirely accurate. You can easily add the CTEK charger and second battery. The second 5-stud bus bar should be included with every Grenadier whether you configured it with the second battery or high-load panel, or not. I didn't get the second battery, but I did get the high-load panel. Not much is missing.

 

[parb]

I'm definately going to figure out a second battery.
My preference is to have a house battery that is separate from the starter which powers some of my AUX power including the roof bar outlets and the trunk outlets separately from the starter batter that powers the rest of the vehicle. Need to figure that out.

 

[Rok_Dr]

I am not sure the "Bad News" is entirely accurate. You can easily add the CTEK charger and second battery. The second 5-stud bus bar should be included with every Grenadier whether you configured it with the second battery or high-load panel, or not. I didn't get the second battery, but I did get the high-load panel. Not much is missing.

The way I read it is you only get the 5 stud bus when you option the second battery and/or high load wiring preparation. If some one has neither option but still has the 5 stud bus fitted let me know.

 

[eddyoz]

Agreed in that the 5 stud bus exists in my vehicle which has the high load wiring but no aux battery.I am in the early stages of fitting a LIPO .aux,so far only the bracket for the Cteks.
Price a bit too steep for the battery brackets!

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

The way I read it is you only get the 5 stud bus when you option the second battery and/or high load wiring preparation. If some one has neither option but still has the 5 stud bus fitted let me know.

Yea, I would be curious to know if you don't get the 5-stud if you don't order either of those options.

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

Agreed in that the 5 stud bus exists in my vehicle which has the high load wiring but no aux battery.I am in the early stages of fitting a LIPO .aux,so far only the bracket for the Cteks.
Price a bit too steep for the battery brackets!

I didn't use the CTEK, I used a RedArc 1250D DCDC charger. The space the battery sits in is pretty cozy and doesn't move around much, so right now I have it anchored with a VHT type tape. It's not going anywhere, but I'll fab up a bracket or strap system soon.

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

I'm definately going to figure out a second battery.
My preference is to have a house battery that is separate from the starter which powers some of my AUX power including the roof bar outlets and the trunk outlets separately from the starter batter that powers the rest of the vehicle. Need to figure that out.

This is exactly what I did, and it's so easy to do in the Grenadier. I just need to move the 80A overhead panel circuit to the second battery, and then I'll be able to power most of the provisioned outlets from the 2nd battery.

 

[anand]

Yea, I would be curious to know if you don't get the 5-stud if you don't order either of those options.

If you don't have either the aux battery or the high amp switch panel, you do not get the 5 stud busbar; only the 7 stud

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

If you don't have either the aux battery or the high amp switch panel, you do not get the 5 stud busbar; only the 7 stud

So in that case, you are simply adding a lead from the #7 terminal of the 7-stud bus bar (far-right terminal), and either adding your own bus bar, or connecting directly to a DCDC charger. I could add a mega-fuse close to the #7 terminal, appropriate to the amperage load you'll be supporting on the new circuit.

 

[anand]

So in that case, you are simply adding a lead from the #7 terminal of the 7-stud bus bar (far-right terminal), and either adding your own bus bar, or connecting directly to a DCDC charger. I could add a mega-fuse close to the #7 terminal, appropriate to the amperage load you'll be supporting on the new circuit.

Yes... I also don't have the inverter, so I have (had) 2 spots free on the 7 stud bus bar.

The inverter stud (4 I think?) retains the 60A ZCASE fuse installed at the factory (I found it interesting that it is fused for the inverter despite not having it) and feeds a 60A capable relay to provide an ignition-switched fuse block off of the main battery; on the stud that is used for the 5 stud bus bar (#7) I placed a 80A ZCASE fuse and ran a wire directly to the DC-DC charger

 

[Roving.Grenadier]

Yes... I also don't have the inverter, so I have (had) 2 spots free on the 7 stud bus bar.

The inverter stud (4 I think?) retains the 60A ZCASE fuse installed at the factory (I found it interesting that it is fused for the inverter despite not having it) and feeds a 60A capable relay to provide an ignition-switched fuse block off of the main battery; on the stud that is used for the 5 stud bus bar (#7) I placed a 80A ZCASE fuse and ran a wire directly to the DC-DC charger

I think I would run my own inverter from the second battery, as I believe the OEM inverter is like 400W? I'd like to run a 2000W inverter but need to find a 200Ah lifepo4 battery with a small enough foot-print, or add a 2nd 100Ah somewhere where there's no room lol. I think Li Time's 230Ah battery will fit the bill at 19"x6.7"x9.5" but I can't measure it because the Grenny is under the knife till later this week or so.