Auxiliary Battery setup components

[ADVAW8S]

You will need 2 brackets for the spare battery, one goes on the side and the other toward the front. I have installed a redarc battery isolator that joins the 2 when needed automatically, or with a switch. Pretty sure Ineos wired everything to essentially run off the starting battery, and the 2nd battery is for back up only, which is essentially the way I have everything ran. I relocated my subwoofer to the middle section of the under seat compartment to make room for the 2nd battery.

Any suggestion on the bracket you used?

 

[Shawnpalmer]

Any suggestion on the bracket you used?

Yeah, I ordered the factory brackets from Ineos

 

[carpetman]

Yeah, I ordered the factory brackets from Ineos

Hi Shawnpalmer,

Can you share what the cost is for the factory brackets, also does your dealer have them in stock? I got a quote for over $500. This seems excessive!

Regards,

 

[carpetman]

You will need 2 brackets for the spare battery, one goes on the side and the other toward the front. I have installed a redarc battery isolator that joins the 2 when needed automatically, or with a switch. Pretty sure Ineos wired everything to essentially run off the starting battery, and the 2nd battery is for back up only, which is essentially the way I have everything ran. I relocated my subwoofer to the middle section of the under seat compartment to make room for the 2nd battery.

Hi Shawnpalmer,

I like the subwoofer location and would like to replicate this. Did you need to create a bracket to mount it there?

Cheers,

 

[Shaheens]

I am in a similar situation,bought intending to fit Lithium as an auxillary.Have the Ctek 120s and 250se and the plate to join them but no original mount for the 120s and ,of course, no securing bracket for the auxillary battery.Local agent does not have a parts diagram so unable to order from Ineos.....any one have either of these items surplus to their requirements?

@eddyoz Can you share how you did the setup and put all components together?

 

[eddyoz]

@eddyoz Can you share how you did the setup and put all components together?

No luck so far,still a work in progress!

 

[Shaheens]

No luck so far,still a work in progress!

please share your experience once you get it done

 

[jesmor3]

please share your experience once you get it done

Ditto and thank you!

 

[4runnernomore]

I would seriously consider utilising one of these isolators from traxide tronics in Aus.

https://traxide.com.au/

Many benefits to Tim’s system over others and he is extremely knowledgeable to boot.
.

 

[CRH]

This is what I have, no battery or charger. Please can someone show/provide instructions on how to fit charger, battery and type of battery, used for fridge, lightingand charging things. ( please use simple language as if speaking to a moron and no abbreviations)
Thanks for any help

 

[ADVAW8S]

Watch YouTube video from dickinaround. He shows installation of the ctek 250se. He shows how to do the installation. Another is google dual battery installation, their are some great ones. It might be cheaper and easier buying a power station as it provides an inverter. The cost for your installation is around the same price of most mid range battery systems. The aux switches run off your main battery anyways.

 

[Tom D]

I have been thinking about a second battery, I am also thinking it would be easier if I just replaced the starter battery with a lithium cranking battery. A lithium battery of the same size will have way more usable amp hours and given that I have used the second battery space to mount a compressor and air tank it would be very useful.

However I have an issue: the smart alternator might not charge the lithium battery. As the voltage doesnt drop on lithium until it is very flat the alternator might not recognise the need for charging… Does anyone know if it will work?

 

[Logsplitter]

I have been thinking about a second battery, I am also thinking it would be easier if I just replaced the starter battery with a lithium cranking battery. A lithium battery of the same size will have way more usable amp hours and given that I have used the second battery space to mount a compressor and air tank it would be very useful.

However I have an issue: the smart alternator might not charge the lithium battery. As the voltage doesnt drop on lithium until it is very flat the alternator might not recognise the need for charging… Does anyone know if it will work?

I do t think lithium batteries are compatible with stop start systems.

 

[anand]

I do t think lithium batteries are compatible with stop start systems.

Lithium batteries that are rated for engine cranking amperage can handle it; but this limits you to only a handful (or thereabouts) of manufacturers and models of batteries

 

[Kruegerruda]

I use a Powerstation with Inverter, no change the standard system. I charge the power via socket in the back. Next step ist to fit a CTEK 250just to charge the Powerstation.

 

[Logsplitter]

I use a Powerstation with Inverter, no change the standard system. I charge the power via socket in the back. Next step ist to fit a CTEK 250just to charge the Powerstation.

I see some of these power stations have inbuilt dc to dc chargers so making wiring and charging easy.

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[anand]

This is what I have, no battery or charger. Please can someone show/provide instructions on how to fit charger, battery and type of battery, used for fridge, lightingand charging things. ( please use simple language as if speaking to a moron and no abbreviations)
Thanks for any help

I'll preface by saying that if you aren't comfortable with this stuff, please, take it to an experienced workshop and let them handle it.

The charger and battery you choose requires further assessment into requirements, budget, and level of complexity that you are comfortable with.

On one hand, just doing a CTEK SmartPass 120S and an standard battery would work for some people. Beyond that something like a Blue Sea ML-ACR would work and allow push button jump starting (and forced isolation) assuming both batteries have identical charge profiles.

If using a lithium battery (or technically even an AGM since the charge profile is slightly different than EFB), it would be more advantageous to go with a DC-DC charger. Options there include the Redarc BCDC, Victron Orion series, etc.

For storage capacity of the battery, remember that a lead acid (standard, EFB, or AGM) has roughly a 50% discharge floor; effectively you can discharge the battery to 50% before you start irreversibly damaging it and decreasing capacity/output. For a lithium battery, those have a 10% discharge floor (so they are capable of safely using ~90% of their capacity). This varies slightly from battery to battery, but are safe numbers to work from. What this translates to is that the factory auxiliary battery has 105Ah (amp-hours) capacity, but can only utilize around 52.5Ah (we'll call it 50Ah for simplicity). A lithium battery that is rated at 60Ah would actually have more usable power capacity than the factory aux. battery in this case.

While not inexpensive, a number of lithium batteries also are now available in very dense configurations for capacity. One of the most dense includes the Victron 200Ah (12v) LiFePO4, which John @ Agile Off Road has just installed in his Grenadier. Additionally the Dakota Lithium 135Ah (I just installed this one) fits in just the size of a Group 24 battery (notably shorter in length, but slightly taller than the original auxiliary battery).

The short answer to your question is that there is no truly short answer, at least not if it is to be optimized and ideal for you personally.

 

[Tom D]

My issue is that to run a dc dc charger I’d need to keep the starter battery. What I’d like to do is change the starter for a lithium cranking battery. These are available and as has been mentioned above have loads more usable power. I just see it as a much simpler solution to fitting another battery. Just plug and play really..

 

[CRH]

I'll preface by saying that if you aren't comfortable with this stuff, please, take it to an experienced workshop and let them handle it.

The charger and battery you choose requires further assessment into requirements, budget, and level of complexity that you are comfortable with.

On one hand, just doing a CTEK SmartPass 120S and an standard battery would work for some people. Beyond that something like a Blue Sea ML-ACR would work and allow push button jump starting (and forced isolation) assuming both batteries have identical charge profiles.

If using a lithium battery (or technically even an AGM since the charge profile is slightly different than EFB), it would be more advantageous to go with a DC-DC charger. Options there include the Redarc BCDC, Victron Orion series, etc.

For storage capacity of the battery, remember that a lead acid (standard, EFB, or AGM) has roughly a 50% discharge floor; effectively you can discharge the battery to 50% before you start irreversibly damaging it and decreasing capacity/output. For a lithium battery, those have a 10% discharge floor (so they are capable of safely using ~90% of their capacity). This varies slightly from battery to battery, but are safe numbers to work from. What this translates to is that the factory auxiliary battery has 105Ah (amp-hours) capacity, but can only utilize around 52.5Ah (we'll call it 50Ah for simplicity). A lithium battery that is rated at 60Ah would actually have more usable power capacity than the factory aux. battery in this case.

While not inexpensive, a number of lithium batteries also are now available in very dense configurations for capacity. One of the most dense includes the Victron 200Ah (12v) LiFePO4, which John @ Agile Off Road has just installed in his Grenadier. Additionally the Dakota Lithium 135Ah (I just installed this one) fits in just the size of a Group 24 battery (notably shorter in length, but slightly taller than the original auxiliary battery).

The short answer to your question is that there is no truly short answer, at least not if it is to be optimized and ideal for you personally.

I just wanted to install as per INEOS spec, have asked for a cost from dealer but not getting any answers, just wondered if could duplicate myself. Anything more I would go to an auto electrician or whoever does these things in the UK.
The lithium idea does sound a bit more useful

 

[anand]

I just wanted to install as per INEOS spec, have asked for a cost from dealer but not getting any answers, just wondered if could duplicate myself. Anything more I would go to an auto electrician or whoever does these things in the UK.
The lithium idea does sound a bit more useful

Oh!

To duplicate the standard system you'll need:

• CTEK Smartpass 120S + bracket
• Another OEM battery (they are the same)
• The bracket to hold the aux. battery
• and a few battery cables to be made

Oh! Also the vent tube for the aux. battery (EFB batteries are supposed to be vented out of the passenger compartment)