Auxiliary Battery setup components

Tom D said:

This is the kind of thing I am thinking of…

DL+ 12v 135Ah Dual Purpose 1000CCA Starter Battery Plus Deep Cycle Performance

DL+ 12v 135Ah LiFePO4 Golf Cart & 1000CCA Automotive Battery. Free charger with 11 year warranty. 135 Amp Hours of deep cycle Dakota Lithium performance.

dakotalithium.com

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anand said:

Oh!

To duplicate the standard system you'll need:

• CTEK Smartpass 120S + bracket
• Another OEM battery (they are the same)
• The bracket to hold the aux. battery
• and a few battery cables to be made

Oh! Also the vent tube for the aux. battery (EFB batteries are supposed to be vented out of the passenger compartment)

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anand said:

This is exactly the battery I used for my aux. battery set up...

While it can be charged from an alternator (really the voltage controller) intended to charge an EFB, it isn't really ideal, nor is it a true full charge ever. Additionally, Dakota says that on the Grenadier (and any vehicle with a >135A alternator output), you should use at least two batteries in parallel, as the battery is only capable of a continuous 1C charge (135A), while normal charging rates are ideally lower than that

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CRH said:

Is that all, from looking at other setups I thought there was more wires than that. I thought I needed to wire up something to the Little fuse box in my pic
Would any battery of same spec do, INEOS quoted £351.92+VAT for just a replacement battery and as you mentioned, could a lithium version be wired in exactly the same.
Where will the vent tube go to?
Brackets shouldn't be too hard to get made if INEOS isn't forth coming.

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CRH said:

Is that all, from looking at other setups I thought there was more wires than that. I thought I needed to wire up something to the Little fuse box in my pic
Would any battery of same spec do, INEOS quoted £351.92+VAT for just a replacement battery and as you mentioned, could a lithium version be wired in exactly the same.
Where will the vent tube go to?
Brackets shouldn't be too hard to get made if INEOS isn't forth coming.

Click to expand...

CRH said:

Anyone who can add a few pics especially for where the wires go to and from, sounds like it should be a simple job

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anand said:

This is exactly the battery I used for my aux. battery set up...

While it can be charged from an alternator (really the voltage controller) intended to charge an EFB, it isn't really ideal, nor is it a true full charge ever. Additionally, Dakota says that on the Grenadier (and any vehicle with a >135A alternator output), you should use at least two batteries in parallel, as the battery is only capable of a continuous 1C charge (135A), while normal charging rates are ideally lower than that

Click to expand...

Tom D said:

Judging by the reaction of people world wide to the INEOS setup I wouldn’t bother trying to re-create it. It’s not a good design. And it allows both batteries to be drained to the point that you can’t start the car.
As you like me have the option of designing your own system you’d be better off using a simple DCDC charger that will isolate the starter battery once the voltage drops below a certain point. You can then run your accessories off the aux battery and not need to worry about flattening the starter battery.

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CRH said:

Yes, that is what I would do but, I haven't a clue how!!
All the switches run off the main battery, I can copy and do things, put additional 12v & USB sockets in passenger footwell, fit stuff, boot shelf, door table and on old cars, brake pads, discs, wheel bearing, king pins, all following the old Haynes manuals but other than that, I'm useless

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Tom D said:

What accessories are you wanting to run?

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anand said:

In the stock configuration, everything that draws power draws power from the starting/primary battery. The aux battery exists only to trickle charge back to the primary battery (it's a.... unique arrangement to say the least).

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Kruegerruda said:

And the next problem: For whatever reason, the starter battery is only charged up to 75% capacity by the alternator. I fear that this will also be the case for a lithium battery. Software presetting?

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CRH said:

25ltr fridge, exterior lights for evenings, possibly a shower but that would be sometime off. The fridge must run so I can keep medication in at approx 5ºC during UK and possibly European summer's even if vehicle doesn't get used for a few days.

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anand said:

This is exactly the battery I used for my aux. battery set up...

While it can be charged from an alternator (really the voltage controller) intended to charge an EFB, it isn't really ideal, nor is it a true full charge ever. Additionally, Dakota says that on the Grenadier (and any vehicle with a >135A alternator output), you should use at least two batteries in parallel, as the battery is only capable of a continuous 1C charge (135A), while normal charging rates are ideally lower than that

Click to expand...

CRH said:

Is that all, from looking at other setups I thought there was more wires than that. I thought I needed to wire up something to the Little fuse box in my pic
Would any battery of same spec do, INEOS quoted £351.92+VAT for just a replacement battery and as you mentioned, could a lithium version be wired in exactly the same.
Where will the vent tube go to?
Brackets shouldn't be too hard to get made if INEOS isn't forth coming.

Click to expand...

anand said:

In the stock configuration, everything that draws power draws power from the starting/primary battery. The aux battery exists only to trickle charge back to the primary battery (it's a.... unique arrangement to say the least).

A wire goes from the Littlefuse box to the CTEK Smartpass (the "input" to the smartpass from the main battery).

I'm not sure where the aux battery vent tube goes, as I don't have the factory aux battery.

And yes, technically, any battery of the same spec (I believe the size is H9, and a EFB battery) will work in lieu of the Ineos branded model.

Switching to a lithium aux battery would require more components

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Tom D said:

Judging by the reaction of people world wide to the INEOS setup I wouldn’t bother trying to re-create it. It’s not a good design. And it allows both batteries to be drained to the point that you can’t start the car.
As you like me have the option of designing your own system you’d be better off using a simple DCDC charger that will isolate the starter battery once the voltage drops below a certain point. You can then run your accessories off the aux battery and not need to worry about flattening the starter battery.

Click to expand...