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Deutsch DTP plugs

ECrider

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DenisM said:
Do you also wish to operate the lights independently? The post above by Lollo050968 indicates how to power both from one outlet, however they will still need to be independently switched ( probably externally) at the light.
Click to expand...
tks @Lollo050968 . Yes DenisM I would want them to work independently from the rear work lights. Yes looks like ext switches for each may be the way forward - tks for the reply.
 
TheDocAUS

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drbra said:
Wie ist die Belegung von ext 4 und 5 ?
Click to expand...
aux-fuse-box-jpg.7821804


Ext 4 winch and rear NATO plug, Ext 5 the 25 amp circuit under the bonnet/hood. Look here.
 
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A useful , you tube by someone , perhaps on this forum explaining the type of Deutsch connector used on the grenadier. I did not now the various types and which were used on the grenadier. It’s in German but the subtitles in English make it easy to understand for us non German speakers.


View: https://youtu.be/HYOZLAmVqRw?si=ELn254KYnVhBNHeo
 
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TheDocAUS said:
aux-fuse-box-jpg.7821804


Ext 4 winch and rear NATO plug, Ext 5 the 25 amp circuit under the bonnet/hood. Look here.
Click to expand...
Before I rip everything apart.. again.. 😀 Any idea which fuse or how power is sourced for the 12v/usb switch (1) that is used to power up the usb ports and other 12v overhead switches when the vehicle is not running?

Reason being I'm contemplating powering all the above by the Aux battery via a victron smart battery protect I have installed to ensure against another flat battery x2 situation (partly my fault leaving the main power switch (1) on and perhaps how the smartpass works to support the starter battery - end of the day I had two flat batteries)

An understanding of switch 1 would help with options and which way to go. I may remove the smartpass completely and just have the D250SE in place to charge the Aux battery @ 20amps max via alt or solar.
 
TheDocAUS

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bakepl said:
Before I rip everything apart.. again.. 😀 Any idea which fuse or how power is sourced for the 12v/usb switch (1) that is used to power up the usb ports and other 12v overhead switches when the vehicle is not running?

Reason being I'm contemplating powering all the above by the Aux battery via a victron smart battery protect I have installed to ensure against another flat battery x2 situation (partly my fault leaving the main power switch (1) on and perhaps how the smartpass works to support the starter battery - end of the day I had two flat batteries)

An understanding of switch 1 would help with options and which way to go. I may remove the smartpass completely and just have the D250SE in place to charge the Aux battery @ 20amps max via alt or solar.
Click to expand...
They can be found on the fuse box diagram. Let me look. EDIT: Look at FC21 to FC23, they look like it, most likely FC22 for the USB charging ports. The Cockpit fuse box looks like it is powered from Stud 6 on the 7 Stud Busbar on the main battery.

1708041612509.png
 
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Rok_Dr

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For the other 12v switches the power button controls, look at Fuses FI28-30 in the interior electrical centre fuse box.
1708047066591.png

1708047111976.png

1708047132338.png


Cheers
Steve
 
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TheDocAUS

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Over the weekend I had an issue with a third party Deutsch DT plug (not DTP) fitting into a genuine Deutsch DT plug. I have experienced this in the past with Anderson 50 amp plugs. The plugs would mate properly.
 
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TheDocAUS

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FOOTWELL POWER OUTLETS AND DEUTSCH PLUG SIZE
I have crimped both Deutsch DT and DTP plugs to the footwell wire ends. The footwell circuits are rated at 10 amps so you can use DT plugs (rated at 13 amps). The wire ends securely fit the pin/socket on the DT plugs which use a size 16 pin/socket.

A DTP pin/socket does not crimp securely onto the wire, the wire is too thin. The DTP plug uses a size 12 pin/socket. This can be addressed in three ways; first, strip more insulation off the copper wire and double it over and fill the pin/socket, Second, crimp a Bootlace ferrule terminal over the wire and then crimp it into the DTP pin/socket. Third solder rather than crimp the wire. I used the second method effectively. I have also combined suggestions 1 and 2 to get a good crimp.

I already owned all the Bootlace ferrules and tools I needed. I used both the black (1.5mm) and grey (2.5mm) bootlace ferrules, depending on the wire width. You can trim off the plastic ends if you wish. I use a six sided ferrule crimper, rather than the more common 4 sided crimper to get a better crimp.
 
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Jeffrey

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Can't find which ext roof outlets are controlled by which rocker switches! Not in manual (so far). Thanks for any advice.
 
Cheshire cat

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Jeffrey said:
Can't find which ext roof outlets are controlled by which rocker switches! Not in manual (so far). Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...
Hi Jeff
On the switches themselves, you should see INT and EXT next to their amperage.
 
Cheshire cat

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Jeffrey said:
Thanks Cat, but I need to know which rocker switches power each of the four ext outlets.
Click to expand...
The High Load Auxiliary Switch Panel & Electrical Preparation includes an additional 25A outlet under the bonnet, 25A outlet at the rear of the vehicle and four outlets located in the roof-rail recesses. The four roof outlets run on two circuits, outlet A on circuit one and outlets B, C and D on circuit two. Each circuit has a 25A maximum capacity.
 
Jeffrey

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Cheshire cat said:
The High Load Auxiliary Switch Panel & Electrical Preparation includes an additional 25A outlet under the bonnet, 25A outlet at the rear of the vehicle and four outlets located in the roof-rail recesses. The four roof outlets run on two circuits, outlet A on circuit one and outlets B, C and D on circuit two. Each circuit has a 25A maximum capacity.
Click to expand...
Well, I tried to be clear but that doesn't answer the question I posed. I guess I'll just have to put a meter on each outlet and flip all the switched until one sends some juice.
 
Jeffrey

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Not quite, thanks.

Since this information is apparently not available, I have an easier way. I have three exterior mounted lights that I'll just connect to the closest provided plug. Then I'll simply flip the switches until I identify the one for each light and mark it appropriately.
 
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