Is this a photo from your new Grenadier?I don't think I recall reading about the interiors of the doors being treated - but the back doors at least are. I noticed this today:
View attachment 7812301
Is this a photo from your new Grenadier?I don't think I recall reading about the interiors of the doors being treated - but the back doors at least are. I noticed this today:
View attachment 7812301
I used it on my last and current Rangers and found it to be very good. They say to re-coat every 12 months but I haven’t had to do that yet after two years on my latest Ranger. It’s clean to use does not matter if you get it on wiring, rubber or plastic. Will use on the Grenadier when I get it next month.I used to get my Defenders Waxoyled as the chassis were painted with blackboard paint but I'm assuming Ineos will do a better job. I'm still inclined to apply some extra protection to the underside of the vehicle as the UK salt roads in winter are pretty harsh on any vehicle.
This stuff popped up on my FB feed this week and it seems too good to be true: Cheaper, easy to DIY and much less mucky to apply, anyone had some experience of it or some similar lanolin based product?:
Lanoguard link
If you have the time and inclination, please post and photo what bolts you were able to switch and what size ss equivalent are needed to substitute, thanksTo one & all on this thread,
It's not the panels, chassis or doors that are my primary concern. It's all thoe bolts, nuts, washers, split pins & bodywork fasteners that will rot. Not today or tomorrow but a few years down the line when the Torx is full & rotted withe the thread joining the party. I want to undo it without wrecking the surroundings. Brake parts also.... and some of those damn great suspension bolts. Imagine undoing (or paying someone to) them? Nah, protect whilst they're shiny.
There's a good chance that the Torx fasteners under the wheel arches will get replaced by stainless sooner or later.
It's only a days work on a ramp.
Will do but it may be a while yet. I'll message you provided my aged memory still functions!If you have the time and inclination, please post and photo what bolts you were able to switch and what size ss equivalent are needed to substitute, thanks
Torx bolts on the grenadier will be 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9.To one & all on this thread,
It's not the panels, chassis or doors that are my primary concern. It's all thoe bolts, nuts, washers, split pins & bodywork fasteners that will rot. Not today or tomorrow but a few years down the line when the Torx is full & rotted withe the thread joining the party. I want to undo it without wrecking the surroundings. Brake parts also.... and some of those damn great suspension bolts. Imagine undoing (or paying someone to) them? Nah, protect whilst they're shiny.
There's a good chance that the Torx fasteners under the wheel arches will get replaced by stainless sooner or later.
It's only a days work on a ramp.
I agree, SteveB, mostly. However, umptynine years of Series Land Rover experience has taught me that even A2 stainless (8.8?) will last better than plain steel bolts in an unstressed environment, properly protected against the electrolytic demon of course.Torx bolts on the grenadier will be 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9.
Stainless steel is ok for marine applications as long as it is not used on friction surfaces such as a rudder as it is the fastest rusting metal, and will be worn through in a very short time, it rusts that fast it leaves a shiny protective surface, stainless steel has far inferior properties for auto applications, brittle without the same strength less plasticity, and work hardens etc. 10.9 and 12.9 bolts are that hard with the added carbon and other alloys that they rust very little, I will not be changing mine.
Yes. Exactly. @Krabby thx for translation.I where that's come from ~ the bonnet?
The red dirt, when caked on the chassis, will offer its own protection!There are many rust prevention products in the Australian market, aimed at cars used on a beaches or harsh mining environments. I have not used one myself, but here are a few samples:
That said, the most modern cars have decent rust prevention built in. Such extra protection is probably only warranted in harsh environments.
- ERPS, how it works here;
- NILRUST;
- Endrust (spray on);
- CAT systems and many more.
I am considering 1 and 4 for the INEOS, as my Grenadier will live a hard life traveling Outback Australia.
True, but it's salt that is the hidden killer.The red dirt, when caked on the chassis, will offer its own protection!
My old Triton still has 'red dust' on it from 18 years ago, it's like an oxidising rub on the old black coated chassis, and it reminds me how good the Outback here is!