Underbody Corrosion Protection

[Krabby]

I don't think I recall reading about the interiors of the doors being treated - but the back doors at least are. I noticed this today:
View attachment 7812301

Is this a photo from your new Grenadier?

 

[DCPU]

Yes it is.

 

[Grenadearden]

I used to get my Defenders Waxoyled as the chassis were painted with blackboard paint but I'm assuming Ineos will do a better job. I'm still inclined to apply some extra protection to the underside of the vehicle as the UK salt roads in winter are pretty harsh on any vehicle.

This stuff popped up on my FB feed this week and it seems too good to be true: Cheaper, easy to DIY and much less mucky to apply, anyone had some experience of it or some similar lanolin based product?:

Lanoguard link

I used it on my last and current Rangers and found it to be very good. They say to re-coat every 12 months but I haven’t had to do that yet after two years on my latest Ranger. It’s clean to use does not matter if you get it on wiring, rubber or plastic. Will use on the Grenadier when I get it next month.

 

[Hicarus]

To one & all on this thread,
It's not the panels, chassis or doors that are my primary concern. It's all thoe bolts, nuts, washers, split pins & bodywork fasteners that will rot. Not today or tomorrow but a few years down the line when the Torx is full & rotted withe the thread joining the party. I want to undo it without wrecking the surroundings. Brake parts also.... and some of those damn great suspension bolts. Imagine undoing (or paying someone to) them? Nah, protect whilst they're shiny.
There's a good chance that the Torx fasteners under the wheel arches will get replaced by stainless sooner or later.
It's only a days work on a ramp.

 

[Wilaspira]

To one & all on this thread,
It's not the panels, chassis or doors that are my primary concern. It's all thoe bolts, nuts, washers, split pins & bodywork fasteners that will rot. Not today or tomorrow but a few years down the line when the Torx is full & rotted withe the thread joining the party. I want to undo it without wrecking the surroundings. Brake parts also.... and some of those damn great suspension bolts. Imagine undoing (or paying someone to) them? Nah, protect whilst they're shiny.
There's a good chance that the Torx fasteners under the wheel arches will get replaced by stainless sooner or later.
It's only a days work on a ramp.

If you have the time and inclination, please post and photo what bolts you were able to switch and what size ss equivalent are needed to substitute, thanks

 

[Hicarus]

If you have the time and inclination, please post and photo what bolts you were able to switch and what size ss equivalent are needed to substitute, thanks

Will do but it may be a while yet. I'll message you provided my aged memory still functions!

 

[trobex]

Is a fully powder coated chassis right? Adding anything is probably not going to improve longevity that much, but could actually contribute to retaining 'scum' collected from normal use. That's my view and I won't be adding a thing to the chassis frame. I would however be looking at the rusty bolt points in the wheels, the other 'bolt on bits' added at dealer and the utlity rail oxidising, door seals retaining water etc. I think rust issues on this vehicle will come from the peripheral components.

 

[Steve.B]

To one & all on this thread,
It's not the panels, chassis or doors that are my primary concern. It's all thoe bolts, nuts, washers, split pins & bodywork fasteners that will rot. Not today or tomorrow but a few years down the line when the Torx is full & rotted withe the thread joining the party. I want to undo it without wrecking the surroundings. Brake parts also.... and some of those damn great suspension bolts. Imagine undoing (or paying someone to) them? Nah, protect whilst they're shiny.
There's a good chance that the Torx fasteners under the wheel arches will get replaced by stainless sooner or later.
It's only a days work on a ramp.

Torx bolts on the grenadier will be 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9.
Stainless steel is ok for marine applications as long as it is not used on friction surfaces such as a rudder as it is the fastest rusting metal, and will be worn through in a very short time, it rusts that fast it leaves a shiny protective surface, stainless steel has far inferior properties for auto applications, brittle without the same strength less plasticity, and work hardens etc. 10.9 and 12.9 bolts are that hard with the added carbon and other alloys that they rust very little, I will not be changing mine.

 

[Hicarus]

Torx bolts on the grenadier will be 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9.
Stainless steel is ok for marine applications as long as it is not used on friction surfaces such as a rudder as it is the fastest rusting metal, and will be worn through in a very short time, it rusts that fast it leaves a shiny protective surface, stainless steel has far inferior properties for auto applications, brittle without the same strength less plasticity, and work hardens etc. 10.9 and 12.9 bolts are that hard with the added carbon and other alloys that they rust very little, I will not be changing mine.

I agree, SteveB, mostly. However, umptynine years of Series Land Rover experience has taught me that even A2 stainless (8.8?) will last better than plain steel bolts in an unstressed environment, properly protected against the electrolytic demon of course.
Those wing arch fasteners are into rivnuts into steel panels for the rear but ally for the front. The thought of those after a year or two of our winter salted roads is not a pleasant one.

 

[Krabby]

Galvanized hardware?

 

[Hicarus]

Member.....but they're usually BZP & we know how long they last!

 

[Barney]

Heute habe ich das Auto einem Nachbarn gezeigt. Er war sehr interessiert. Als ich die Haube öffnete, sah ich, dass viel Wachs ausgelaufen war. Siehe Foto. Es ist gerade sehr warm hier und die Sonne brennt. Ich denke, es ist ein gutes Gefühl, dass das Auto schwitzt...

 

[Krabby]

TRANSLATION-Today I showed the car to a neighbor. He was very interested. When I opened the hood, I saw that a lot of wax had leaked. See photo. It is very warm here right now and the sun is burning. I think it's a good feeling that the car is sweating...

 

[DCPU]

I where that's come from ~ the bonnet?

 

[Barney]

I where that's come from ~ the bonnet?

Yes. Exactly. @Krabby thx for translation.

 

[TheDocAUS]

There are many rust prevention products in the Australian market, aimed at cars used on a beaches or harsh mining environments. I have not used one myself, but here are a few samples:

1. ERPS, how it works here;
2. NILRUST;
3. Endrust (spray on);
4. CAT systems and many more.

That said, the most modern cars have decent rust prevention built in. Such extra protection is probably only warranted in harsh environments.

I am considering 1 and 4 for the INEOS, as my Grenadier will live a hard life traveling Outback Australia.

 

[emax]

@Barney Have the same. I don't care. Wax is a good type of dirt.

 

[emax]

Rust protection: If you live in the UK the risk of rust is probably greater than in Central Europe. I have no idea if and how the sea affects the atmosphere through salt pollution as the entire country is surrounded by saltwater. But it is clear that there is more rain and fog, and the climate is generally more humid than in Central Europe.

So here in (south-west) Germany I feel comparably comfortable with the factory coating.

 

[trobex]

There are many rust prevention products in the Australian market, aimed at cars used on a beaches or harsh mining environments. I have not used one myself, but here are a few samples:

1. ERPS, how it works here;
2. NILRUST;
3. Endrust (spray on);
4. CAT systems and many more.

That said, the most modern cars have decent rust prevention built in. Such extra protection is probably only warranted in harsh environments.

I am considering 1 and 4 for the INEOS, as my Grenadier will live a hard life traveling Outback Australia.

The red dirt, when caked on the chassis, will offer its own protection!
My old Triton still has 'red dust' on it from 18 years ago, it's like an oxidising rub on the old black coated chassis, and it reminds me how good the Outback here is!

 

[Tazzieman]

The red dirt, when caked on the chassis, will offer its own protection!
My old Triton still has 'red dust' on it from 18 years ago, it's like an oxidising rub on the old black coated chassis, and it reminds me how good the Outback here is!

True, but it's salt that is the hidden killer.
We don't all live in the "outback" you know!