Front drive shaft broken

[TCMColorado]

Thread 'Headlight Recall'

Aug 6, 2023

I was contacted by my agent yesterday in order to arrange a few minor fixes. While on the phone discussing everything IG and giving my largely positive feedback, the agent mentioned that there is currently a “check” being done on all cars that go back in on the headlights and that certain cars are being held until further instruction from Ineos. I was surprised by this and actually wonder if it might be that the headlights are too bright? I have noticed nothing wrong with my lights, my only observation is that they are mega bright and very good for country lane night driving. I hope they...

• JOB
• Replies: 67
• Forum: Electrical, ECU, HVAC, Lights & Infotainment

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AWo

Thanks. It seems this was fully sorted before Ineos made the first deliveries to the US.

 

[bamanuke]

As a side note, I'm not yet convinced that there isn't a problem with the compound used on the Ineos boot. Or possibly there is a heat issue. Or maybe a bit of both. My Terra Flex version of the joint is holding up well with no signs of failure yet.

mine also, just over 9000 miles on the Terra Flex, 99% "on road". inspect it every 2-3 weeks.

 

[GN4HIR]

My lifted IG is in the shop for various minor warranty items and a $900 oil change. I have a stock loaner. Would they notice if it didn't have a front drive shaft when I returned it? We have a LOT of catalytic converter thefts in Houston, I could probably blame them. I plan to quiz them on what they have seen / heard about this issue from corporate.

 

[Dokatd]

My lifted IG is in the shop for various minor warranty items and a $900 oil change. I have a stock loaner. Would they notice if it didn't have a front drive shaft when I returned it? We have a LOT of catalytic converter thefts in Houston, I could probably blame them. I plan to quiz them on what they have seen / heard about this issue from corporate.

It's not necessary to keep a spare drive shaft. At least not in regards to this problem. Sure you could damage the shaft on a rock, but that might be a bit over prepared in my opinion.

Rather, buy a couple of the Terra flex joints as spares. They are small and fairly light in comparison to a whole shaft. Now the problem is the stock joints on the IG have a crimped end cap and different bolt heads. So you will need the tool for the IG bolts. Also and more importantly you will need a battery powered grinder or worst case maybe a hack saw so that you can open the end cap of the stock joint to remove the retaining clip.

The new terra flex joints are fully serviceable, so once you change to the terra joint you will no longer need the grinder/hack saw. This could also apply to the tool for the bolts assuming you switch over to the terra bolts.

I will say it's a messy job so be sure to have a box of shop towels on hand. Great part is if your front or rear shaft fails all you really need to do is remove what's left of it and engage the center diff lock. Now you can drive to safety and repair your shaft at the hotel or home. You can drive indefinitely with one drive shaft.

 

[Mountain4x4]

No big issues, with quite a few miles on the Terra Flex here as well. However, still the slight drive shaft vibration I dont like.

 

[Tom109]

I listened to the Expedition Portal podcast today about the IG and Scott said that the 2025's that are built after the production pause have a new front drive shaft with a CV that has a higher articulation angle. Can anyone confirm that? Evidently they're offering fixes.

Very interested where this goes….

 

[Owain]

Hi all, so my front drive shaft came off today done nearly 14000 km.

Wasn't doing anything outrageous, just happened to be taking off (slowly while towing) when there was a loud bang and then I couldn't drive forward or reverse without locking the centre diff. The front drive shaft has come away at the rear end of the shaft.

Will let you know what happens with the repairs.

Edit 1. For those who are mechanically-minded (not me) the circlip is still intact, there is some damage to the shroud where the drive shaft meets the transfer case, from what I can see. I will know more in a few days once it gets looked at.

Edit 2. Initial diagnosis looks like the transfer case has seized which caused the drive shaft to brake, this all still needs to be confirmed though! So far the process has been great, the dealer has been in contact with Ineos and now we will see how it goes.

It seams that there has been a recall for transfer cases on some vehicles, I believe that mine was outside this range (built too early) but this has not been confirmed, and I haven't received any recall notice.

Edit 3. After a full inspection the transfer case is fine (not sized), it looks like the circlip failed which caused the jack shaft to come out. A new shaft is being flown to TAS (the only one in the country) I should be back on the road tomorrow or the next day.
I've had very good dealings with Buckley's motors in Launceston, and appreciate them fitting me in. Well done guys!

Edit 4. So the drive shaft has arrived but there is damage to a coolant line that needs to be replaced, this has pushed out the vehicle to be ready next week.

Edit 5. For reference it's been 2 weeks and 2 days since the incident and I just got my Grenadier back. The coolant line took some time as there wasn't a replacement so it needed to be made (as is my understanding) and they needed to fit me in.
While it was a bit longer than expected I'm glad I have it back and grateful it could be seen at short notice. Thanks

Edit 6. I've done about 35k on the replacement drive shaft with no problems so far.

Same with me today. Driving at about 40mph when suddenly a loud bang and jolt, then complete loss of drive. Felt like I hit a large pothole (I didn’t). It’s on the back of a lorry now, off to the dealership

 

[Walter]

Same with me today. Driving at about 40mph when suddenly a loud bang and jolt, then complete loss of drive. Felt like I hit a large pothole (I didn’t). It’s on the back of a lorry now, off to the dealership

Sorry to hear that...Is your Grenadier lifted?

 

[Owain]

Sorry to hear that...Is your Grenadier lifted?

No standard Fieldmaster. 2023 model with 20k miles

 

[Zimm]

Which one is typically failing, the case or the diff?

 

[Dokatd]

Which one is typically failing, the case or the diff?

The T-case side exclusively from what I can tell. Even in the case of the failed C clip situations.

The T-case side has a slightly higher angle than the diff and less airflow.

 

[Zimm]

The T-case side exclusively from what I can tell. Even in the case of the failed C clip situations.

The T-case side has a slightly higher angle than the diff and less airflow.

The two "solutions' I've seen have been double DC's.... which seemed real optimistic to work. Maybe for 2-4" lifts, the slightly better front CV and a case DC joint is the solution. I haven't seen that combo yet, or ever frankly. I never really considered it. My thought process was always a cut and turn with a DC. I just do what works. I'm not a pioneer.

 

[Dokatd]

Honestly at the 1.5" or so level I am starting to believe replacing the joint at the t-case with a better unit that has a better boot might be the answer. I have not seen any failures of the Terra Flex replacement joint so far. The reality is we haven't seen any failures outright joint failure yet either. Only the boot failing and loosing all the needed grease. And the C clip failing likely due to assembly problems. These joints should be packed heavily with grease, loss of grease is eventually fatal for the joint. But nobody seems to have let it get that far yet.

There is another alternative to the cut and turn, I haven't verified it can be done yet, but if I have another boot failure I may look towards that solution.

As well I am still expecting some movement from another driveshaft shop regarding a hybrid shaft with a DC and a CV.

 

[Commodore]

Honestly at the 1.5" or so level I am starting to believe replacing the joint at the t-case with a better unit that has a better boot might be the answer. I have not seen any failures of the Terra Flex replacement joint so far. The reality is we haven't seen any failures outright joint failure yet either. Only the boot failing and loosing all the needed grease. And the C clip failing likely due to assembly problems. These joints should be packed heavily with grease, loss of grease is eventually fatal for the joint. But nobody seems to have let it get that far yet.

There is another alternative to the cut and turn, I haven't verified it can be done yet, but if I have another boot failure I may look towards that solution.

As well I am still expecting some movement from another driveshaft shop regarding a hybrid shaft with a DC and a CV.

I’m starting to wonder if we can build a test jig and test the teraflex and the factory CV.

 

[Dokatd]

I’m starting to wonder if we can build a test jig and test the teraflex and the factory CV.

Kinda feel like Ineos already did that for us .

I'm not racking up the miles quite as fast on the Teraflex joint as I did with the stock, but I will get there. I feel like a few others here have put well over 5-6k miles on the Tera joint.

The Ineos boot on mine was hard and brittle. Honestly looked like it could have come from a vehicle with 100k miles and 20 years on it. Not sure if it cooked or that's how it generally was from the factory.

 

[Tom109]

Modern rubber compounds are a seriously selective application process.

 

[Commodore]

Kinda feel like Ineos already did that for us .

I'm not racking up the miles quite as fast on the Teraflex joint as I did with the stock, but I will get there. I feel like a few others here have put well over 5-6k miles on the Tera joint.

The Ineos boot on mine was hard and brittle. Honestly looked like it could have come from a vehicle with 100k miles and 20 years on it. Not sure if it cooked or that's how it generally was from the factory.

That is a good data point. I'm thinking of replacing my transfer case side CV or at least pulling the driveshaft and inspecting it. If the rubber is really that bad then why wait until it fails.

 

[Dokatd]

That is a good data point. I'm thinking of replacing my transfer case side CV or at least pulling the driveshaft and inspecting it. If the rubber is really that bad then why wait until it fails.

Replacing the joints is fairly inexpensive. And the benifit of doing it preemptively is that the replacement joints are able to be easily replaced in the field. The stock joints are crimped together and require a fair bit of additional work to change them. Get the hard part out of the way in your garage so you don't have to mess with it on the side of the road.

The Tera joint has a very soft supple rubber boot. The stock feels much more rigid and more like plastic.

 

[Commodore]

Replacing the joints is fairly inexpensive. And the benifit of doing it preemptively is that the replacement joints are able to be easily replaced in the field. The stock joints are crimped together and require a fair bit of additional work to change them. Get the hard part out of the way in your garage so you don't have to mess with it on the side of the road.

The Tera joint has a very soft supple rubber boot. The stock feels much more rigid and more like plastic.

That is exactly what I'm thinking. I'm really only waiting to see what the rumored new CV is on the 2025 production Grenadiers.

 

[bamanuke]

Kinda feel like Ineos already did that for us .

I'm not racking up the miles quite as fast on the Teraflex joint as I did with the stock, but I will get there. I feel like a few others here have put well over 5-6k miles on the Tera joint.

The Ineos boot on mine was hard and brittle. Honestly looked like it could have come from a vehicle with 100k miles and 20 years on it. Not sure if it cooked or that's how it generally was from the factory.

I'll hit 10k miles on the Teraflex today. 30k on the Grenadier.