So far my winter experience has been pretty mild. No issues with traction or heating/cooling. It has been kinda mild here for a winter but we did get highs of only 63degrees. The heated seat worked great.
What do you think the "factory trained" mechanics are going to do?So I take a mallet to an £80k vehicle. ***K me, I give up.
Zip it. Arizona is not allowed to discuss winter. Red flag for you, Captain Sunshine.So far my winter experience has been pretty mild. No issues with traction or heating/cooling. It has been kinda mild here for a winter but we did get highs of only 63degrees. The heated seat worked great.
Thump the handle and charge $595.What do you think the "factory trained" mechanics are going to do?
On the plus side, until you're out of warranty they are sending that bill (albeit half of the labor) to IneosThump the handle and charge $595.
Me too - but then @anand explained it in a previous post. Next time one sticks, leave it in - get down level with the handle and look carefully at the button (which should still be in the stuck depressed position). You should see the button slightly off center. In the case for me yesterday (rear passenger door - the usual culprit for me), it was touching the face at the “9:30” position - almost directly aft, and slightly up. We’re talking far less than 1mm so really take a good look with a flashlight. Then with a rubber mallet, you can hit the handle to ever so slightly adjust the face plate in the direction you need to create clearance. @anand said they did this on the whole fleet for the trial series tour and eventually had them all sorted out. He can correct me, but when I did the North Carolina event, it seemed like there were a good 15 or so Grenadiers. I’ve tried graphite and lubricant and took mine to the dealer. The “dad whack” seems to be the actual fix. @anand strikes again.Had all four of my door handles re & re at the dealer with a new Ineos part or service method. Anyways, they still regularly get stuck in the depressed position. Often when it's wet out. An extra press and wiggle frees up the stuck button. Until it sticks again. I love my truck. I'll live with it (but I'll keep reporting and asking for a fix until warranty runs out.)
Just like @jwb15 my dealer confirmed that Ineos is aware of their design/tolerance/material/seal issue. But the present Ineos solution isn't one IME.
9, but close enoughHe can correct me, but when I did the North Carolina event, it seemed like there were a good 15 or so Grenadiers.
Clearly, I was an overwhelmed man-child out of my mind with excitement9, but close enough
The West Coast tour had a separate 9 vehicles... and there were a few extras rotated in
I recall in Maryland, I was told they were pre production and stuff like… the door buttons and electronics were being sorted out.9, but close enough
The West Coast tour had a separate 9 vehicles... and there were a few extras rotated in
They were definitely pre-production... Although we found that the door buttons and electronics were normal MY23 spec; plenty of other stuff wasn't "quite" there yet on themI recall in Maryland, I was told they were pre production and stuff like… the door buttons and electronics were being sorted out.
This. I drop my Gren off in a couple weeks for a small list of items. I didn’t add sticking door buttons. Is there an actual factory fix, or am I better off adjusting the two wet-sticky buttons with a rubber mallet? No sense I asking the dealer to spend a bunch of time to put the same parts back in?!SER=9053575]@jwb15[/USER] my dealer confirmed that Ineos is aware of their design/tolerance/material/seal issue. But the present Ineos solution isn't one IME.
There is apparently a newly released actual fix that involves replacing the buttons... Check with your dealer to confirmThis. I drop my Gren off in a couple weeks for a small list of items. I didn’t add sticking door buttons. Is there an actual factory fix, or am I better off adjusting the two wet-sticky buttons with a rubber mallet? No sense I asking the dealer to spend a bunch of time to put the same parts back in?!
Will do!There is apparently a newly released actual fix that involves replacing the buttons... Check with your dealer to confirm
My understanding, what my dealer did with mine a month or two ago, was replace and/or add seals. That was apparently the factory-prescribed fix at the time. It made little to no difference. But keeping the problem documented for future warranty followups is important IMO. YMMV.Is there an actual factory fix, or am I better off adjusting the two wet-sticky buttons with a rubber mallet?
Get a bigger Hammer and write NO FAULT FOUND!What do you think the "factory trained" mechanics are going to do?
Look up owl sliders / steps.. I think it will do well in the winter.. very porous and ample surface areaNo major brilliant insights, but first snow/sleet of the year this afternoon. Door handle DEFINITELY sticking now (I “fixed” it a few weeks ago with graphite powder)- like 3 times today. So I think temp is a factor - I thought so before, but this seemed pretty obvious. Also, the OEM side runners SUUUUUUCK in sleet/freezing rain. I was wearing Salomon hiking boots - might as well have been ice skating. Shockingly bad. Drier snow and slush might be better, but frozen sleet - fail. The ones looking best to me for ice traction would probably be Buzz or Blacksheep. It’s gotta be something “spiky.” Surface texture won’t do squat with sleet. I’m going to need to figure this out if I don’t want to lose some teeth.