The Grenadier Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to contribute to the community by adding your own topics, posts, and connect with other members through your own private inbox! INEOS Agents, Dealers or Commercial vendors please contact admin@theineosforum.com for a commercial account.

What did you do with your Grenadier today?

Thanks all, yes absolutely, my wife and daughter were in the car and the other fella had his wife and two dogs. Everyone completely fine. It was actually a very low speed impact, just frustrating.

The cheeky bugger actually said “bloody pretend defenders!”

Shame his bloody Defender didn’t have ABS.

I have a pic (I won’t share yet) of the tyre marks that make it pretty clear what happened and exonorates me I think.

These things happen, just a bloody shame.
 
Last edited:
Well I got crashed into by an old Defender.

Bit snowy. He came round a bend, locked up, couldn’t slow, couldn’t steer, slid into “my” side of the road and crunch. Everyone ok. I drove home (just a mile or so) but losing coolant.

Bugger.

View attachment 7883986

New wing, wing top, headlight, duct for the cooler (is that the PAS cooler on that side?), some plastic bumper bits and wheel arch, arch liner. Hooefully just a water hose but maybe the rad took a knock.
Ouch. Sounds like it was low speed which is fortunate. The front corners do seem a bit soft on the Grenadier. I have seen similar but lesser damage on our steel bumper equipped Australian vehicles including bending of the bolt-on Roo Bar. Possibly part of the crumple zone.

The cooler in the RH wing of RHD vehicles is an auxiliary engine cooler (radiator). The LH wing houses the transfer case oil cooler.
Coincidentally I followed the auxiliary cooler hoses on my vehicle last weekend in a 'if this gets damaged can I bypass it?' exercise. The cooler hoses are retained by spring clips. The hoses trace back to T joiners in the upper and lower main radiator hoses which puts the auxiliary cooler in parallel with the main radiator. It's some of the extra plumbing that makes that frontal engine area look like a bucket full of smashed crabs - junk everywhere :rolleyes:
In a pinch I believe this cooler could be bypassed to get a vehicle out of trouble. I can't see any flow control devices, thermostats etc.
There would be an impact on cooling capacity due to the reduction of radiator surface area and we know the HVAC is sensitive to air in the cooling system so there will be secondary problems, but a bypass should at least get the vehicle to a better recovery location and might even get you home with close temperature monitoring.
You would need to replace any lost coolant or use demineralised water temporarily, plus do a cooling system bleed.
 
Ouch. Sounds like it was low speed which is fortunate. The front corners do seem a bit soft on the Grenadier. I have seen similar but lesser damage on our steel bumper equipped Australian vehicles including bending of the bolt-on Roo Bar. Possibly part of the crumple zone.

The cooler in the RH wing of RHD vehicles is an auxiliary engine cooler (radiator). The LH wing houses the transfer case oil cooler.
Coincidentally I followed the auxiliary cooler hoses on my vehicle last weekend in a 'if this gets damaged can I bypass it?' exercise. The cooler hoses are retained by spring clips. The hoses trace back to T joiners in the upper and lower main radiator hoses which puts the auxiliary cooler in parallel with the main radiator. It's some of the extra plumbing that makes that frontal engine area look like a bucket full of smashed crabs - junk everywhere :rolleyes:
In a pinch I believe this cooler could be bypassed to get a vehicle out of trouble. I can't see any flow control devices, thermostats etc.
There would be an impact on cooling capacity due to the reduction of radiator surface area and we know the HVAC is sensitive to air in the cooling system so there will be secondary problems, but a bypass should at least get the vehicle to a better recovery location and might even get you home with close temperature monitoring.
You would need to replace any lost coolant or use demineralised water temporarily, plus do a cooling system bleed.
I only just read yesterday that not only are our Eu regulated front bumpers plastic, known, but the wings are also weaker (deformable) for pedestrian protection. Non eu ones get stronger wings. Not great! Why pedestrians insist on getting in front of vehicles is baffling??!🤣
 
I only just read yesterday that not only are our Eu regulated front bumpers plastic, known, but the wings are also weaker (deformable) for pedestrian protection. Non eu ones get stronger wings. Not great! Why pedestrians insist on getting in front of vehicles is baffling??!🤣
Australian pedestrians are either stronger - or less valuable to society. I suspect the latter.
 
Ouch. Sounds like it was low speed which is fortunate. The front corners do seem a bit soft on the Grenadier. I have seen similar but lesser damage on our steel bumper equipped Australian vehicles including bending of the bolt-on Roo Bar. Possibly part of the crumple zone.

The cooler in the RH wing of RHD vehicles is an auxiliary engine cooler (radiator). The LH wing houses the transfer case oil cooler.
Coincidentally I followed the auxiliary cooler hoses on my vehicle last weekend in a 'if this gets damaged can I bypass it?' exercise. The cooler hoses are retained by spring clips. The hoses trace back to T joiners in the upper and lower main radiator hoses which puts the auxiliary cooler in parallel with the main radiator. It's some of the extra plumbing that makes that frontal engine area look like a bucket full of smashed crabs - junk everywhere :rolleyes:
In a pinch I believe this cooler could be bypassed to get a vehicle out of trouble. I can't see any flow control devices, thermostats etc.
There would be an impact on cooling capacity due to the reduction of radiator surface area and we know the HVAC is sensitive to air in the cooling system so there will be secondary problems, but a bypass should at least get the vehicle to a better recovery location and might even get you home with close temperature monitoring.
You would need to replace any lost coolant or use demineralised water temporarily, plus do a cooling system bleed.

Thank you, really informative post!
 
I put on some rear accessory rails (but kept my door “bumper strips”). Picked them up from my local dealership here in Colorado Springs.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5965.jpeg
    IMG_5965.jpeg
    3.6 MB · Views: 51
I installed the Custom Offroad diff protectors on my Grenadier.

Ineos-Grenadier-Rear-Diff-Protector-bash-plates-underbody-protection-skid-plates-uvp-2-scaled.jpg


I also wrote up an Installation Guide, as the protectors had no instructions and I had a problem with a contaminated thread. It is general enough to be used for other diff protectors, if they do not have a guide. I also added tools needed and bolt sizes and torque.
 
Thanks all, yes absolutely, my wife and daughter were in the car and the other fella had his wife and two dogs. Everyone completely fine. It was actually a very low speed impact, just frustrating.

The cheeky bugger actually said “bloody pretend defenders!”

Shame his bloody Defender didn’t have ABS.

I have a pic (I won’t share yet) of the tyre marks that make it pretty clear what happened and exonorates me I think.

These things happen, just a bloody shame.
He actually had the gall to say that after running into you? }^#^}+{+]+#%!
 
The cheeky bugger actually said “bloody pretend defenders!”
I can't believe he had said that, he may drive an old Defender but he is not a gentleman...when the dust has settled or as in your case, the snow has melted...would you please post all of his details that you have of him and vehicle...




Just kidding but I am sure some of the lads would love to send him a little note :ROFLMAO: :D
PS there's only one Pretender and that's the one they called a Defender👍
 
Last edited:
Installed the starlink mini on the bison gear roof rack. DVA cable and striker fab mount. Works excellent, anchored it into my roof rack with pre-drilled holes!

I used three washers for each m6 bolt as a poor man's standoff. Worked really great.

Really low, sits behind the low profile light bar.
1000000557.jpg

5308b4d5-0b67-451a-9f01-b16b2f875b8e-1_all_22738.jpg

1000000559.jpg

I opted for the style with the apple tracker in it.
 

Attachments

  • 5308b4d5-0b67-451a-9f01-b16b2f875b8e-1_all_22740.jpg
    5308b4d5-0b67-451a-9f01-b16b2f875b8e-1_all_22740.jpg
    3.8 MB · Views: 31
Installed the starlink mini on the bison gear roof rack. DVA cable and striker fab mount. Works excellent, anchored it into my roof rack with pre-drilled holes!

I used three washers for each m6 bolt as a poor man's standoff. Worked really great.

Really low, sits behind the low profile light bar.

I opted for the style with the apple tracker in it.

This looks great, I'm looking to do something similar in the future (for now I'm just using mine as a mobile unit). A few questions if you don't mind:

1. How did you run the wiring, where does it get power from?
2. How much effort would it be to attach/detach the dish from this mount, e.g. when using it at home vs. on the road?
 
Installed the Bison Gear rear door table today, super happy with it. Just so convenient. High quality product.
 
This looks great, I'm looking to do something similar in the future (for now I'm just using mine as a mobile unit). A few questions if you don't mind:

1. How did you run the wiring, where does it get power from?
2. How much effort would it be to attach/detach the dish from this mount, e.g. when using it at home vs. on the road?
Not OP but owl has a power adapter if you have roof power outlets: https://owloutdoor.com/collections/...nk-mini-to-ineos-grenadier-dtp-port-1m-16-awg
 
This looks great, I'm looking to do something similar in the future (for now I'm just using mine as a mobile unit). A few questions if you don't mind:

1. How did you run the wiring, where does it get power from?
2. How much effort would it be to attach/detach the dish from this mount, e.g. when using it at home vs. on the road?
It has to be opened with a Allen wrench, 8 bolts to get the starlink off the roof. I opted for that, I think it's gives me some better chance of keeping it vs if it's. Clamped to the roof handles or has a quick mount. someone will try to steal it if its not bolted on. I need to take my grenadier to work for two months starting in february and i can totally see someone trying to steal my starlink while parked in the parking garage... Its also why i put it so centered on the roof rack, makes it harder to see.

I used the power cable from dva mechanics. I think owl has one as well. These cables plugs into one of the power ports on the roof and directly into starlink. When using the front left side power plug i have about 8-10" of slack in the cable to the starlink, it gives you a decent amount of freedom to move it around. The starlink consumes about 30w of power so not a whole lot.

FYI I am working on a solution for having my ARB roof light, Stedi rear light bar and the Starlink on the same circuit. Something both functional and decent looking. I suck at paint so its a 50/50 how the paint will come out -the rest i feel pretty good about. Stay tuned for next weeks update. I was building brackets and painting them today, they will be installed next week and wired up. I did a test run of it yesterday so i know it works electrically, now i just needed to make it look prettier than the raw metal i tested everything with... :)
 
Last edited:
My OCD self decided to powder coat my hi lift in the same color as the ladder. Took apart the hi lift and took it to a place near where I live to have it sand blasted and powder coated. 4 days later the hi lift looks like this mounted on the back of my Grenadier...

Pure vanity of course... 😁
1000017156.jpg
 
It has to be opened with a Allen wrench, 8 bolts to get the starlink off the roof. I opted for that, I think it's gives me some better chance of keeping it vs if it's. Clamped to the roof handles or has a quick mount. someone will try to steal it if its not bolted on. I need to take my grenadier to work for two months starting in february and i can totally see someone trying to steal my starlink while parked in the parking garage... Its also why i put it so centered on the roof rack, makes it harder to see.

I used the power cable from dva mechanics. I think owl has one as well. These cables plugs into one of the power ports on the roof and directly into starlink. When using the front left side power plug i have about 8-10" of slack in the cable to the starlink, it gives you a decent amount of freedom to move it around. The starlink consumes about 30w of power so not a whole lot.

FYI I am working on a solution for having my ARB roof light, Stedi rear light bar and the Starlink on the same circuit. Something both functional and decent looking. I suck at paint so its a 50/50 how the paint will come out -the rest i feel pretty good about. Stay tuned for next weeks update. I was building brackets and painting them today, they will be installed next week and wired up. I did a test run of it yesterday so i know it works electrically, now i just needed to make it look prettier than the raw metal i tested everything with... :)
I know it belongs on another thread - but have you looked at an interior mount for the starlink receiver inside the cargo area window? I know it’s not optimal - I just saw someone do that (because of the theft risk) and I was curious how it worked in terms of reception.
 
Back
Top Bottom