Can’t stand glossy black “piano plastic” on the door, so I decided to experiment with Plastidip clear and also tried Plastidip Smoke for the bottom of the door, which I seem to kick regularly getting in/out of the truck.
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I’ve not tried this before, it’s an experiment and non-damaging, so I just went for it. They both dry to a matte to satin color.
Some YT videos say to remove the tape before it dries to get a clear line and separation from the unpainted areas but because I was spraying two spots at the same time, I didn’t do that. That also caused the vinyl to pull up in several areas.
Overall, I’m satisfied with the first attempt but it’s not perfect, so I’ll be doing it again. I’ll probably wait till it gets dinged up to get an idea of how many more coats I should apply. I sprayed 4 coats this first time around.
This pic is right after removing the paper, so the extra bits of vinyl, especially by the door handle, haven’t been cleaned up. I wasn’t sure how to remove the door panels, so I just taped everything off. Blue painters tape doesn’t like to stick to plastic car parts. Masking tape I found worked much better. I might try taking the door apart next time if it’s not too much of a PIA.
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I also remember seeing a thread about putting something in the ignition key area…like gluing a copper washer, and out of curiosity I started looking through my parts bin. Just for the record, I don’t have any difficulty finding the hole or scratching up the sides (that’s what she said
) but I was bored, literally waiting for paint to dry.
In putzing around, no joy in finding a copper washer but I did find this…and tried the 3/8” for shitz and giggles.
You have to push it in there and get it to seat but it fits and no glue is required. TBH, I thought the grommet would be too thick to be able to insert the key all the way in to turn on the ignition, but it worked fine.
I’m not sure there’s any benefit to adding something like this, but since you guys were talking about it before, here’s another option