Very handy work. Everything looks fantastic and looks stock.
Very handy work. Everything looks fantastic and looks stock.
Well, he explains this in his post and look at the third picture: he removed the original screws and replaced them with the "rings". I did the same shortly after wards, I mean replacing the screws with steel rings, but never posted my modification as it was copying @Highwayman. I used the rings to extend a rope and dry my washed clothes while driving after camping.
Ah, thank you Jean.
Someone superglued theirs and someone else installed a rubber washer inside the case. On my phone so search is a pain. But poke around and you’ll find them.PANIC BUTTON ON KEY
Am about to use a butane GAS flame to 'melt' the key PANIC button on the Grenadier keys !!! Am so bloody over it!
This happens almost hourly at all hours, day or night. My family, my neighbours even strangers standing nearby in a carpark all comment.
Cannot even place the keys in my pocket (without the horn going off day or night), cant just grab the keys in the dark, just getting into the car while holding the keys, inserting the key to start, etc. etc.
Totolly crazy, is there is no other way to diable it?
Yes, Photos Please. Thanks for your detailed description. DaBullThese mods I purchased nothing.
Once I got I home did a full undercarriage inspection. After a little over an hour of scouring everything I would give it a score of 99%. Here are the 3 changes/mods I made. I would note that if you plan on only driving your Gren on the street or don't plan on keep it over 10 yrs just leave as is.
1. I notice that the transfer temp sensor wire harness was at the same height as the transmission cross member. The installer placed the loom holding loop down. I assume because it makes it easier to cut the tie. Simple fix, especially because everything is brand new. Flip the metal plastic so the retaining loop is oriented up. Place new tie. Now the loom is tucked over the cross member. Chance of getting ripped off is much less. Note, make sure you still have a 1 inch space from the inside of the sharp part of the frame rail.
2. A similar clip is used for the ground strap to the starter motor on the catalytic converter heat shield. The way mine was installed the ground wire was touching the right side engine mount bolt . I removed that harness clip holder completely. Kept the clip a spare. Made my own ground strap holder using that same engine mount bolt it was previously touching. Now the ground wire is routed more that a inch further from the catalytic converter from how I received it, Win! Tweaked that heatshield a touch more to keep the motor mount insulated more.
3. Coolant hose going to the heat exchanger in the right side front bumper. The lower hose is much more free to move then the upper hose. So much so that the lower hose can rub on 2 places. The sway bar, not sharp. And the frame, sharp. My fix was to clock the hose clamp and hose on the nipple counter clockwise 35 degrees. This naturally sets the lower hose 2 inches away from the sharp parts of the chassis. I then wrapped the hose with hydraulic line PTFE chaffing guard, just in case. Supported the upper and lower hose together.
If y'all want pics I can upload later. BTW this has not impeded my love affair of my Trialmaster. I maintain 6 vehicles in my fleet. The newest is a 2000. I have worked on vehicles that stay on ranches and am an old desert rat, prerunners, dirt bikes etc. I made my mods over the past 30 yrs of whoopsies. Also the harness protection on the Ineos is the most robust I have scene from a vehicle manufacturer. For me it is a better to not put the loom protection to the test
Cheers and have a Happy New Year.
The thread is here:PANIC BUTTON ON KEY
Am about to use a butane GAS flame to 'melt' the key PANIC button on the Grenadier keys !!! Am so bloody over it!
This happens almost hourly at all hours, day or night. My family, my neighbours even strangers standing nearby in a carpark all comment.
Cannot even place the keys in my pocket (without the horn going off day or night), cant just grab the keys in the dark, just getting into the car while holding the keys, inserting the key to start, etc. etc.
Totolly crazy, is there is no other way to diable it?
www.theineosforum.com
) are the most important ones to know how to dismount the key. Be careful to keep the key itself (see picture 10) in its position. I removed it in one of my two keys, and the spring mechanism jumped out, and it took me some time to figure out how to place it back.These mods I purchased nothing.
Once I got I home did a full undercarriage inspection. After a little over an hour of scouring everything I would give it a score of 99%. Here are the 3 changes/mods I made. I would note that if you plan on only driving your Gren on the street or don't plan on keep it over 10 yrs just leave as is.
1. I notice that the transfer temp sensor wire harness was at the same height as the transmission cross member. The installer placed the loom holding loop down. I assume because it makes it easier to cut the tie. Simple fix, especially because everything is brand new. Flip the metal plastic so the retaining loop is oriented up. Place new tie. Now the loom is tucked over the cross member. Chance of getting ripped off is much less. Note, make sure you still have a 1 inch space from the inside of the sharp part of the frame rail.
2. A similar clip is used for the ground strap to the starter motor on the catalytic converter heat shield. The way mine was installed the ground wire was touching the right side engine mount bolt . I removed that harness clip holder completely. Kept the clip a spare. Made my own ground strap holder using that same engine mount bolt it was previously touching. Now the ground wire is routed more that a inch further from the catalytic converter from how I received it, Win! Tweaked that heatshield a touch more to keep the motor mount insulated more.
3. Coolant hose going to the heat exchanger in the right side front bumper. The lower hose is much more free to move then the upper hose. So much so that the lower hose can rub on 2 places. The sway bar, not sharp. And the frame, sharp. My fix was to clock the hose clamp and hose on the nipple counter clockwise 35 degrees. This naturally sets the lower hose 2 inches away from the sharp parts of the chassis. I then wrapped the hose with hydraulic line PTFE chaffing guard, just in case. Supported the upper and lower hose together.
If y'all want pics I can upload later. BTW this has not impeded my love affair of my Trialmaster. I maintain 6 vehicles in my fleet. The newest is a 2000. I have worked on vehicles that stay on ranches and am an old desert rat, prerunners, dirt bikes etc. I made my mods over the past 30 yrs of whoopsies. Also the harness protection on the Ineos is the most robust I have scene from a vehicle manufacturer. For me it is a better to not put the loom protection to the test
Cheers and have a Happy New Year
For my more remote travels having a spare starter will give me peace of mind.
Yes, I also prefer hand washing. Yesterday, I washed the mud from the wheel arches and the bodywork from the last few weeks. Yes, with MM the dirt is not so noticeable. That was one reason for me to choose the colour. But you can still see the chunks of earth.Washed and cleaned our Grenadier for the first time...by hand! Magic Mushroom does not show much dirt at all! I noticed in the handbook the sequence for shifting the Grenadier into neutral before going through a car wash...but I think I'll stick with handwashing. Our Grenadier deserves it!
Hi @Highwayman
