Strange grinding noise from the drivetrain + solution

[Nocrays]

I have exact same thing just for the record. Have not looked at the heat shield “modifications” but will do when less mud around!
I was lucky enough to get an Ineos mechanic to drive with me who identified it as coming in around 1800rpm under load. And as you say this is very irritating at 8th gear cruising speed in the diesel. It just doesn’t seem to go away even above this rpm when for example overtaking or going up steep inclines

Sorry you have it as well - but pleased that I'm not just imagining it. It is the type of thing you find when a engine or gearbox mount goes bad, but with 4000km on the clock i doubt it would be that.

Next thing I need to check is how it changes when in Low Range as that should narrow down further where its coming from.

The heat shields are generally a metallic rattle rather than the type of vibrations I'm seeing

I know that the old defenders have a harmonic balancer bolted to back of the transfer case - may need one here!

 

[Karearea]

Sorry you have it as well - but pleased that I'm not just imagining it. It is the type of thing you find when a engine or gearbox mount goes bad, but with 4000km on the clock i doubt it would be that.

Next thing I need to check is how it changes when in Low Range as that should narrow down further where its coming from.

The heat shields are generally a metallic rattle rather than the type of vibrations I'm seeing

I know that the old defenders have a harmonic balancer bolted to back of the transfer case - may need one here!

Mmmm “harmonic balancer” sounds more like something that’s needed after an extended evening of entertainment!
The low range idea is a good one too, might give that a try also when the weather improves.
I’m with your thoughts though as mine is very much a mechanical higher frequency type of sensation that seems to me to be coming from the firewall area on the drivers side. (RHD)
Quite perplexing but easily ignored too thankfully

 

[MarkgreSC]

Thanks for that but its definitely drive drain vibration.

At 105km - top gear - under any type of load = Vibration
At 105km - top gear - no load (ie pedal off) = No Vibration

If it was outside of the cruise rev rage i would ignore it, but at cruise speed you have a constant drone thats hard to ignore. The load car I had for 6 months had none of this so I have a good yard stick.

A little bit of intertwined threads here .... but on the driveline vibration, mine is at dealer now getting at least a new front yoke seal. Dealer will probably get good at changing those out because at 5k miles, already dripping on mine. New seal isn't going to correct driveline vibration, but may keep water and mud out of front diff for a few more thousand miles till vibration makes it leak again. If you do end up finding a solution short of removing the front driveshaft and 2x4 drive line going forward let me know as really bad situation.

 

[Ray]

Any solutions to this yet?

 

[Karearea]

Mmmm “harmonic balancer” sounds more like something that’s needed after an extended evening of entertainment!
The low range idea is a good one too, might give that a try also when the weather improves.
I’m with your thoughts though as mine is very much a mechanical higher frequency type of sensation that seems to me to be coming from the firewall area on the drivers side. (RHD)
Quite perplexing but easily ignored too thankfully

Ok…just wanted to update this.
I was under Shitake the other day checking out stuff (might have a minor fluid leak but not a concern for now). Everything seemed all fine but decided to flex some of the heat shields away from other fixed metal componentry and my vibrations are now much much better
This has been mentioned in early days for vehicle deliveries so it’s not a new fix but just wanted to keep this thread up to date!
It’s not perfect as yet but I’m pretty sure I can keep adjusting these shields and get an even better result

 

[Quartermaster]

Can you Post pics, please?

 

[Catpaw4x4]

A little bit of intertwined threads here .... but on the driveline vibration, mine is at dealer now getting at least a new front yoke seal. Dealer will probably get good at changing those out because at 5k miles, already dripping on mine. New seal isn't going to correct driveline vibration, but may keep water and mud out of front diff for a few more thousand miles till vibration makes it leak again. If you do end up finding a solution short of removing the front driveshaft and 2x4 drive line going forward let me know as really bad situation.

Same here - independent mechanic noticed front seal leaking at 5k too! Took mine up to RDS (I could take Amtrak back home - small adventure there given I had to go south of DC). Look forward to hearing how you did with Triad!! I had the tires balance at the independent - that made a noticeable difference. Alignment at dealership so the drive home (95 South!) will be interesting to"see" the difference.
Cheers!

 

[Karearea]

Can you Post pics, please?

It’s always good to look after the Quartermaster
I have just ventured under Shitake and taken these pics and will attempt an explanation!
To be honest I’m not expecting to get the names of parts correct Also some rotation of images may help.
First one is looking at the general area behind what I believe to be an engine mount. (Corrections encouraged)
The next one is a close up of the shield that was “modified”. It is the one that seems to follow the contour of the body and is close to a black painted metal “trailer arm” (please amend if others know this item) that is bushed at the rear end.
What I did was to push with fingers only, so as to try and force the heat shield away from the black painted unit. Essentially squashing it slightly in towards the insulation material behind.
The third pic is taken from inside the wheel arch looking back at same heat shield to assist in identifying the specific shield I “modified”.
This has not been a complete fix but I intend to keep at it! Shiitake is now SOOO much more pleasant to drive under load!
Hope this helps

 

[Nocrays]

It’s always good to look after the Quartermaster
I have just ventured under Shitake and taken these pics and will attempt an explanation!
To be honest I’m not expecting to get the names of parts correct Also some rotation of images may help.
First one is looking at the general area behind what I believe to be an engine mount. (Corrections encouraged)
The next one is a close up of the shield that was “modified”. It is the one that seems to follow the contour of the body and is close to a black painted metal “trailer arm” (please amend if others know this item) that is bushed at the rear end.
What I did was to push with fingers only, so as to try and force the heat shield away from the black painted unit. Essentially squashing it slightly in towards the insulation material behind.
The third pic is taken from inside the wheel arch looking back at same heat shield to assist in identifying the specific shield I “modified”.
This has not been a complete fix but I intend to keep at it! Shiitake is now SOOO much more pleasant to drive under load!
Hope this helps

Thanks for the update I might do some prodding around at the heat shields and see if it makes any difference.

Ive had it looked at by the dealer and spoke to Ineos about it, and feedback is "they all do it to various extents". Apparently there has been a query from Ineos in to the engineers on the stiffness of the engine mounts but no real clue on a real fix.

 

[Quartermaster]

Thanks to @Karearea , unfortunately i couldn´t get an improvement, but it was worth the try

 

[Skydance]

Thanks to @Karearea , unfortunately i couldn´t get an improvement, but it was worth the try

Try adjusting the heat shield next to the fuel tank. Using the palm of your hands, bang on the fuel tank skid plate. I’ve managed to eliminate most of the vibrations after 12 months of bending every piece of heat shield on the car. Mostly the air box area, fuel tank area, heat shield surrounding/overlapping the rear exhaust pipe. Good luck.

Definitely the heat shields, not the drive line but most probable the stiff engine mounts. Makes sense, no acceleration (coasting), no noise. Underload (heavy acceleration, going up hill) equals metallic vibrations between certain rpm (when the turbo kicks in).