Each of the Grenadier's driveshafts has two CV joints in it. Jeep has been using this design for a long time now.
But not in any Jeep I've owned. I see the value but I wonder (along with others here) why the double cardan at the swivels?
Each of the Grenadier's driveshafts has two CV joints in it. Jeep has been using this design for a long time now.
Yea, that was one of those design choices I was surprised to see, but didn't figure it made any real difference. Perhaps that's the reason they set the steering stops so far out.But not in any Jeep I've owned. I see the value but I wonder (along with others here) why the double cardan at the swivels?
Not sure - you mean CV joint in the axleshafts? I don't think I ever saw double-cardan joint in the swivels.But not in any Jeep I've owned. I see the value but I wonder (along with others here) why the double cardan at the swivels?
Yea, that was one of those design choices I was surprised to see, but didn't figure it made any real difference. Perhaps that's the reason they set the steering stops so far out.
Not sure - you mean CV joint in the axleshafts? I don't think I ever saw double-cardan joint in the swivels.
CVs at both ends of the driveshafts are awesome. Maybe they need a bit more maintenance or care, but they [should] solve all driveline vibration issues.
Honestly, I don't know why Tom Woods still offers double-cardan driveshafts. I'd still buy one if I didn't have a CV option - still may buy one for the LWB Classic to replace the garbage single-U-jointed rear driveshaft from BPUtah, but just for the lack of a proper CV option.All the years of sweating driveline angles now straight out the window
Contact happens.Torn CV boot problems? One shouldn't be using driveshafts as rock sliders.
Honestly, I don't know why Tom Woods still offers double-cardan driveshafts. I'd still buy one if I didn't have a CV option - still may buy one for the LWB Classic to replace the garbage single-U-jointed rear driveshaft from BPUtah, but just for the lack of a proper CV option.
Check this: https://4xshaft.com/collections/jeep-wrangler-jl-products
"Our model solves all your torn CV boot problems and includes the required output yoke for the transfer case at no extra cost. "
Torn CV boot problems? One shouldn't be using driveshafts as rock sliders.
A front driveline CV failed on a member's vehicle in Tasmania earlier this year (February)... https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/front-drive-shaft-broken.12414695/I haven’t got into this thread to any detail as yet. I need to study the setup further but, in the meantime. Have any of these components as fitted failed as yet?
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I had the same experience. I've had loaners on two occasions and they've both handled significantly different (better) than mine.Hi @Znarfgh I noticed exactly this difference when I switched from my Trialmaster to a newer Fieldmaster with road tires. With this vehicle, I could let go of the steering wheel even when driving straight ahead for a long time without the vehicle pulling to one side. Especially when I switched back to my Trialmaster, the difference was clearly noticeable. So there are differences from vehicle to vehicle. I hope neither is within tolerance. But I will have it checked again.
I do. Mine is the exact same - very very heavy at low speeds. Im in a loaner currently and it's much lighter at low speeds. Did you ever find a fix?do you find your steering heavy in the centre Dave, at low/zero speed?
You will find the loaner/courtesy cars have the tyres pump well into low 40 psi when on the door jam, it say 36psi which is the recommended tyre pressure. The difference is in the pressure and type of tyres.I do. Mine is the exact same - very very heavy at low speeds. Im in a loaner currently and it's much lighter at low speeds. Did you ever find a fix?
The loaner tires had the exact same PSI as my car.... cold at 38. The dealer replaced all of my wheels/tires from a loaner and guess what?!?!? - the car finally drives straight. As an aside, the problem wheels had weights slathered all over them. The new set has very minimal weighting. The continued commentary that some of these cars are handling very poorly simply because of improper tire pressure is a bit off base to those who have experienced significant pulling etc.You will find the loaner/courtesy cars have the tyres pump well into low 40 psi when on the door jam, it say 36psi which is the recommended tyre pressure. The difference is in the pressure and type of tyres.
Glad you got this worked out.The loaner tires had the exact same PSI as my car.... cold at 38. The dealer replaced all of my wheels/tires from a loaner and guess what?!?!? - the car finally drives straight. As an aside, the problem wheels had weights slathered all over them. The new set has very minimal weighting. The continued commentary that some of these cars are handling very poorly simply because of improper tire pressure is a bit off base to those who have experienced significant pulling etc.
The loaner tires had the exact same PSI as my car.... cold at 38. The dealer replaced all of my wheels/tires from a loaner and guess what?!?!? - the car finally drives straight. As an aside, the problem wheels had weights slathered all over them. The new set has very minimal weighting. The continued commentary that some of these cars are handling very poorly simply because of improper tire pressure is a bit off base to those who have experienced significant pulling etc.
Improperly balanced tires have little to no impact on low speed steering feel.I do. Mine is the exact same - very very heavy at low speeds. Im in a loaner currently and it's much lighter at low speeds. Did you ever find a fix?