The Grenadier Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to contribute to the community by adding your own topics, posts, and connect with other members through your own private inbox! INEOS Agents, Dealers or Commercial vendors please contact admin@theineosforum.com for a commercial account.

Stearing link install issue

BigJMaas

Grenadier Owner
Local time
5:16 AM
Joined
Feb 20, 2025
Messages
10
Location
Austin, Texas
Trying to re-install my steering arm to the drop arm and am having an issue where I can't get the nut tight enough and have broken two toes bits trying to hold the shaft in place from spinning while tightening with an open ended wrench.... So I have two questions...

1. Has anyone re-installed this and has advice on how to do it without messing up the bushing or breaking torque bits?

2. Is there a torque spec? Is there a better way them a torque wrench and a spaner wrench since you have to hold the shaft still with a torx bit?

1000007365.jpg
 
Also if anyone knows this bolt and nut size I Broke another torx bit and might try to tap the nut to clean it up... Not sure why it won't go past a point unless it is a lock but and I just don't have a good enough torx bit to hold it....
 
Also if anyone knows this bolt and nut size I Broke another torx bit and might try to tap the nut to clean it up... Not sure why it won't go past a point unless it is a lock but and I just don't have a good enough torx bit to hold it....
I have never done this install but something doesn't sound right. Have you backed the nut off, greased the threads, and reinstalled the nut. It seems like maybe you gauld the threads.
 
I have never done this install but something doesn't sound right. Have you backed the nut off, greased the threads, and reinstalled the nut. It seems like maybe you gauld the threads.
Agreed but I'm not sure how. Trying to figure out the size at this point to by a new nut and get a tap/die to make sure the threads are good.
 
Agreed but I'm not sure how. Trying to figure out the size at this point to by a new nut and get a tap/die to make sure the threads are good.
The rod end is replaceable. I wouldn't screw with cutting new threads. I would take my sawzall or an angle grinder and cut the rod end or split the nut. Then I would replace those with new. That is a mission critical component. I wouldn't want to mess around with a potentially compromised part there.
 
Also if anyone knows this bolt and nut size I Broke another torx bit and might try to tap the nut to clean it up... Not sure why it won't go past a point unless it is a lock but and I just don't have a good enough torx bit to hold it....
The ball joint pin is M14. I don't have the torque value. Call a dealer and ask for it. IA have maintained they will assist owners to do limited maintenance in lieu of the workshop manual. If you cannot get this then I suggest 100Nm (~75lb.ft) but that's a guess. It's your vehicle so you own the process.

I would not run a tap through that nut. If you think it's damaged then get a new nut. It's an interference nut that uses friction to stop it spinning off if it comes loose, like a nyloc nut. If you tap it you're likely to remove the friction.

First, if you can disassemble the joint then do so. Use an evaporating solvent like IPA or Acetone on a rag to carefully clean the ball joint pin and the pitman arm bore. Don't get any on the boot or into the greased joint.

Reassemble the joint then give it a firm tap on the back of the housing with a rubber or composite mallet with a block of softwood in between to protect the housing. Check that the pin threads extend down into the bore so the nut is not going to bottom out on the shoulder of the pin. Try again to torque it while holding it with a torx key.

If it still spins you need to apply a mechanical force to the back of the ball joint to seat the taper pin. Use a jack and a block of softwood (pine, etc) to push up on the back of the ball joint to lightly press it together while you're tightening the nut. Not too much, you're not trying to lift your truck of the ground, but enough so you see it rise up a bit. If this method is not an option for you then you can achieve same by putting a M16 deep socket over the pin (nut removed) then use a G clamp over the socket and the back of the ball joint to push the pin into the bore. Again, protect the ball joint housing with a piece of softwood.

Last resort: Disassemble it again and apply a light thin coat of the base component of a two-part epoxy adhesive like Araldite or JB Weld to the bore of the Pitman Arm. Only use the base component not the hardener! This might be enough to increase the friction in the joint so you can torque it. Reassemble then use the jack or clamp method.

Once you get the pin to seat into the bore you should be good to run down the nut then torque it.

Edit: fixed a double negative :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom